Pricking Iron Review Part 1 Tandy

An introduction and a review of the Tandy 88055-10 2.5mm Stitching Iron.
The PDF to accompany this video is available from www.armitageleather.com/shop

[@Robert-oq9ne]

Just had to jump in here, 8 years later, to thank you for posting this series (and the PDF to match!). It's thorough, straightforward, and well-organized, and is invaluable to someone like me. Really, really appreciate the significant amount of work that must have gone into this - it's still helping people these many years later!

[@pamlame4925]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge like you do, it's wonderful to watch an expert, not only do I learn but it's great entertainment as well. My comment is to do with selling cheaper tools for new leather workers to try before they invest in good ones. I think they can be detrimental as well. It's so frustrating to buy tools hoping they will be correct for whatever you are doing and finding they are nearly useless for the job they are designed for. It can be totally discouraging when your tools just won't do the job. So, there is good and bad in introducing newbies to a craft without using the right equipment. I have upgraded certain tools only to find they are only slighter better than the first one, so now I have two of them that will never be used again most likely. And if you add the cost of leather that gets ruined, I think you may as well start with less tools, but quality ones and get it right a lot sooner. But I do agree it's wise not to invest a lot in a craft that you aren't sure you will pursue and it's easy to do that unfortunately. Anyway, just my thoughts on that subject. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge, it's so incredibly interesting.

[@johndally7994]

Your videos are always an inspiration, Nigel. I'm happy to see your hiatus is over. I've been using two different kinds of Japanese stitching irons. I'll have to give the Tandy a closer look. Their new edgers work very well, although not as elegant as some other makes.

[@billmccaffrey1977]

Your comment about spending the time to polish the irons. I do have these Tandy stitching irons as well as some less expensive Chinese unbranded ones. The Chinese irons need to be de-greased first as they came straight off the milling machine. I then took some fine grit emery cloth and carefully polished the teeth making sure not to change the shape of the tooth, about 2-3 strokes per side. Then drove the irons into a bees wax block. After that, they worked much easier.

[@TonyMorganbodger]

Brilliant, thanks for doing this Nigel. 3 hours of videos to watch! Ace!

[@ericgauthier5794]

Keep up the awesome work !!!... I dig each video that you produce . I am from across the pond in the US . I am a Marine Corps Veteran and am just staring to get into leather working . I hope that someday I will be great at the craft

[@secretagent3764]

Wow! Nice to wake up to this info. I have been trying to learn more about what pricking, stitching tools. I need to expand my knowledge. Thanks

[@woodworkingfan1965]

Thanks for this review Nigel! Good timing as I'm in the beginning process of upgrading from Tandy's interchangeable set and wasn't sure where to start. Great info!

[@screamingpig1]

Excellent review, thanks for taking the time to share these videos!!

[@TheSemtexCow]

Thanks for sharing your skills, I’ll try out that loop on the stitch on the axe sheath I’m making for a friend. By the way, I’ve came to your channel by recommendation of Brandon at Tandy Leather, Manchester.

[@silverwiskers7371]

looks like you have a really nice shop brother from what I see, THANX for the video

[@PrimalEdge]

welcome back! I've missed your videos!

[@ElPasoJoe1]

I have recently acquired a set of these. I like them. I agree they need a 2 tine. I will probably get another 4 tine and take the outer two tines off.

[@ElPasoJoe1]

I did as I wrote that I would and ground the two outer times off of a 4 tine iron. It appears that the steel is a high carbon stainless that is fairly hard. The shower of sparks when I ground it indicated a high carbon content. A good file would not touch the iron neither would a carbide scribe so it seemed to be was pretty hard.

[@newdeathscope]

Joe Burks A good tungsten carbide (normally referred to as carbide) scribe should scratch everything but diamond and some super rare exotic crystals that you will probably never run into. They do make some scribes that are not tungsten carbide and a few unscrupulous retailers probably try to pass them off as carbide scribes. It is good to hear that they are harder than file hard as file hard steel will hold an edge basically forever.

[@manuelvargas2608]

Hello Nigel and thank you. I too think this tool cuts too long of a hole. My experience with high stress applications is that the leather breaks due to too much material being cut. Visually you can make this work but need to be careful in application.

[@DeanO]

Excellent video and information. Thanks for this

[@nicolaquintavalle2476]

Thank You from Italy ;-)

[@chakda12]

Hi Nigel Thanks for doing the video! Always a great help! I brought the Tandy Craft tool Pro fine diamond chisel 88055-10 before seeing you're review. I've noticed on the edges of the tool on neck area where it widens to firm head. The finish has dents to it. Have you or anyone else using same product found the finish not to be perfect? Many Thanks Rahul

[@morgmoll1]

very nice videos. while you say the knotted thread doesnt improve strength would it delay or event prevent unraveling in case the thread was accidentally cut, while the leather item was in use ?

[@BadAnvil]

great vid as usual... by the way nice stitching clam

[@scottfuller2449]

Well done Sir! Thank you!

[@HonestDoubter]

I just got my Tandy flier today in the states "new two prong option!" ;)

[@eddytaylor3697]

Very helpful video, thank you sir.

[@Lethalchem]

Does anyone have a link for purchases of this tool? I cannot find it listed for sale (or even mentioned) anywhere but here.

[@citic101]

Thanks , very interesting

[@lindamellingen5977]

Lethalchem; If you have not found it yet, try Amazon uk, or simply send an e-ail to Armitage? ;-)

[@crypto_pinto2660]

Did I hear that right, nil.6 thread? Can I assume that nil mean zero?

[@keithbarkwood8102]

Nigel, would the extra turn you put in that second stitch row add additional strength to the saddle stitch?

[@Handles-R-Lame]

I know this a dead thread/comment but to you or whomever may still be wondering an answer to this question; and that is not by very much. Doing the loop or "casting" of the stitch while saddle stitching, is to mimic a sewing machine and how it utilizes the lock stitch in its stiching however the beauty in saddle stitch is that stitch is interwoven with the other side of thread and not locked together. So that way if a single stitch were to fail only that single stitch would come undone versus a lock stitch which is reliant upon the tension of the following or prior stitches.. so to sum everything up...the differences with the loop method are minuscule except for maybe appearances. Hope this clarfies things a bit.

[@Handles-R-Lame]

Also have a drink every time i mention stitch youll be drunk before finishing my comment lmao

[@dreamwarriors979]

Hallo from Vienna Austria, The BEST PRICKING IRON COMES FROM SINABROKS! The make ANY STYLE hole puncher, pricking iron & inverse too & same after whit a LOT OF OPTIONS ( many teeth) NEVER WORK WHIT BETTER TOOLS after more than 20 years

[@samhung7109]

where to buy the tools? Do them sale on net?

[@asdfqwerty271]

I am getting very frustrated. I am following you to the exact letter and one side is still flat. I've checked, double checked, and triple checked, all to confirm that I am exactly on the exact same motions you're doing and can say with 100% confidence that I'm doing nothing wrong. Why is one side flat and ugly and the other side correct? Again, I am following 100% exactly how you're doing it, on my life, and it is not working. Please help