Print to Screen Matching

[@BillSands2112]

Great info, thanks for sharing, you got yourself a new subscriber

[@johnnicholson8345]

thank you, thank you, thank you. The most concise and thorough tutorial I've seen on this topic. I was ready to spend $$$ on color matching profilers like the X Rite to see why my printer was so off. I already have the Spyder monitor calibrator and was hoping to not have to go any further with hardware. The biggest mistake I was making was doing all the other items but then I mistakenly let the printer handle the color mgmt at the last step thus negating all the previous steps. I can't tell you how many useless videos there are on this topic!!!! Thanks again Joe!

[@christopherng9362]

HI Joe, thank you so much for your valuable information. It is very helpful! I haven't been able to make an accurate decent print until I come across your tutorial! Thank you and God bless!

[@javierCampeones]

Fantastic video, very well explained.

[@Pankaj-Verma-]

Greatest video so far, Thank you very much for your kind help!

[@RichardtheManc]

Thanks for the video Joe. Have eventually got everything set up! Great help, Richard UK

[@williamdepalma8349]

brilliant!

[@jdnunn1585]

I appreciate all the information... but I solved the problem by smashing my forehead into my printer.

[@thomastuorto9929]

Only at 7:30 into this vid , D65. That's where mine is set. I purchased a Cannon Pro 100 printer & is great for the price with the rebates they give. In the printer manual they set it to D50. Most of the prints are pretty close & sometimes I have to adjust the output brightness a little printing on Cannon Pro luster lu-101 paper. New to this & have a long way to go. I'll try a couple at t Cannon's recommendation & see. If it doesn't look good I will go back to D65.

[@JoeBradyPhotography]

While it may seem counterintuitive, a monitor set to D65 closely matches a printer set at D50 - in part because prints are meant to be viewed under D50 light and monitors have a native white point of D65. It may sound strange, but it really does work that way - there are technical papers that explain why if you want to read about the science behind this!

[@thomastuorto9929]

No need to , You should know. Your 1 of the ( maybe the best ) best on the tube. My prints are pretty close as is. Thanks for getting back to me.

[@ScottRae]

I've been looking at colour management videos for the last few days, and this is by far the most useful in that it's, in the most part, explaining why you're doing something rather than just telling you to do it. Also looks like the proofing tools in lightroom are much more usable than the Photoshop ones - I've never really got on with Lightroom for anything other than catalogue management, so this might be the start of me persisting with it! Thanks Joe! :D Question though.... I have a Colormunki Display and I'm not sure whether I would be better replacing it with a colormunki photo, or using it alongside (I heard it's better for monitor calibration)? Any thoughts?

[@JoeBradyPhotography]

Hi Scott - The benefit of the ColorMunki Photo is its ability to create custom paper profiles for printing - you won't see any noticeable difference in monitor profiles between it and your ColorMunki Display. Thanks for watching!

[@melb5996]

How would you compare the software calibration to hardware? Specifically Macs, they do not allow for hardware calibration. I used to use a Eizo £3,000 monitor with complete hardware adjustments. Unfortunately I now work for myself and can’t afford that outlay.

[@JoeBradyPhotography]

Hi Mel - Macs certainly do allow for hardware calibration - I just re-calibrated both of my monitors last week. I have been using X-Rite gear for 12+ years now and if I didn't like it, I wouldn't recommend it. I use the i1Display Studio with its included software - it's easy and accurate. While it may be somewhat self-serving (yes, I get something from X-Rite), you can order one directly from X-Rite on my website and save 10% - here's the link: www.joebradyphotography.com/x-rite-color

[@peacerebelgirl]

I cannot figure out what I'm doing wrong. I calibrate (on a decent monitor), soft proof, and yet my prints are dark and murky. you did not mention the ideal lighting conditions of the room; mine is low light - I'm wondering if that's my problem. anyone have any ideas? great video, btw.

[@diegaulle9143]

Hi. I´ll tell you what worked for me. If your colorimeter cannot factor in ambient light, a low lit room while calibrating is better. Don't let any direct source of light hit your screen while calibrating. After calibration, set the luminosity of your monitor to a fixed value (5 points on my iMac 27") and do not let the operating system to modify this value depending on the ambient light. I export jpegs from Print module in Lightroom and set the export luminosity to +8 and contrast to 0. It is better to set this value on export than to overexpose the original. I hope this helps.

[@AJ-uh3pv]

Can you be kind enough to tell us about the cheapest ColorMunki device which can be used for this calibration process?

[@JoeBradyPhotography]

The cheapest option (that I would recommend) is the ColorMunki Display. It's easy to use, fairly speedy and requires no great knowledge on the user's part. It doesn't create custom paper profiles, but if you are using factory paper profiles, it will get you pretty darn close.

[@AJ-uh3pv]

Thanks for your prompt response Joe. How far can I go with ColorMunki Smile? I understand it is for calibrating the screen, but I have heard that there are ways to calibrate the printer using a display calibration tool. There was an article which explained this. Something like: first calibrate the screen, then scan the reflective reference target which comes with the package and create a scanner profile, and finally print and re-scan it to create a printer profile. Do you think this is possible?

[@singingfishok]

Thank you

[@stevehayward2533]

Sorry Joe but I have been checking out the internet and I cannot find the word Coloratti. Is this a made up word. Great video by the way :)

[@Smarglenargle]

okey, but i cant afford a 200 dollar color munki.

[@jnmykn5557]

This is just an extended ad. Hope you are being paid well.

[@johnnicholson8345]

you are ignorant or stupid and maybe both. 90% of the tutorial shows you how to use the modules within Photoshop and Lightroom. Maybe try watching the video again and paying attention this time.

[@SafYounes]

Hello, I'm not sure if you'd reply or if you still active on this channel but when am doing color corrections on a picture on profile I usually go to edit > convert to profile > and I choose the printer profile. I'm wondering if the method am using is a correct one?