PRINTS NOT STICKING - PRINTING ON GLASS | No glue or hairspray needed | BEAUTIFUL PLA PRINTS

[@jamesedward44]

After hours of frustration with my print not sticking, this video saved the day. Thank you so much.

[@FusionSource]

I am so glad it helped, really makes making the video worth it

[@reassor]

your joking right? he just said wash your glass... and you had "hours of frustration"? lol

[@jamesmitchell9948]

@@reassor I know you're just being a troll, but this video has specific steps and is helpful. Cleaning with alcohol or other chemicals leaves a residue and keeps the print from sticking.

[@reassor]

@@jamesmitchell9948 didn't want to come off as troll or something. All vids have target audience. I was just venting so ignore me ;)

[@kjayclowers12]

You don't need glass either your temp on your first layer and your room temperature both need to go up and you will have way better adhesion.

[@glenndoncer1186]

This absolutely worked for me (so far, in the middle of the first big print, but it is going flawlessly so far). I had tried for the past few nights to get PLA to stick to my coated Creality glass. Wiped with alcohol, washed with detergent, and honestly, I think it was the dish rags (cloth) that was the culprit. I put on some new disposable rubber gloves, washed the entire glass with dishwashing liquid in hot water, rinsed, and dried with paper towels. Of course, levelled an re-levelled the bed before starting. One thing I did do for my first print was run the PLA at 215 degrees, bed at 63, and reduced my first layer print speed to 5mm/sec. Even the finest detail in the first layer looks practically flawless. Much thanks!

[@FusionSource]

So glad it helped you.

[@unclejew4159]

Been doing it this way for a good year now. Instead of washing the glass I just keep a spray bottle with rubbing alcohol and just wipe it off with a papertowel before starting each print.

[@FusionSource]

I tried that with IPA but that did not work, I will certainly try rubbing alcohol as well. I found, for me, that the dish washing liquid works amazingly well.

[@unitruth]

I saw another video where a guy says isopropyl alcohol leaves a thin layer of hydrocarbons and that dishwashing liquid is best

[@PemboCycling]

@@unitruth I will try this tomorrow. My original ender plate (not glass) is damaged so I bought a glass replacement. The original plate is amazingly forgiving for levelling and as a newbie I get a excellent success rate with adhesion. The glass plate after spending hours on it and getting the levelling perfect just doesn't adhere resulting in lifting and bogies forming on the nozzle. I've cleaned the plate with IPA to an inch of its life and really want to avoid glues and hairspray, as frankly the previous plate was zero fuss and I want to replicate that experience. I'm hoping you're correct and the IPA is the issue here as all other factors I've tried (initial layer height, speed, width, bed temps, extrusion rates, jerk values, flipping the glass over). I've also measured the top plate temp in various spots and while there's a difference in areas its overall about right. Previously the temp was 50 on the original plate and even going to 80 I can't get anything to stick well enought to get something over a few layers to hold. Fingers crossed!

[@unitruth]

@@PemboCycling I got my s5 lined out where it's excellent ,I made a video to help kzbin.info/www/bejne/hl60e3lpaJmsaqM

[@TheRedTrillium]

Wow! Talk about an instant fix! Not getting my parts to stick has been plaguing me for a bit now, and just washing my glass bed was the solution. What a dream!

[@FusionSource]

I am so glad it helped you, thanks for the comment.

[@rosam78]

What a lifesaver!!! I flipped over my creality glass bed, washed ( blue dawn dishsoap) and it worked the very first time. THANK YOU!!!

[@FusionSource]

Hey Rosa, so glad it helped you,,, really appreciate the comment.

[@coldfishmusic]

After a day of frustration trying to get my 2nd ever print to stick. Flipped over the glass on my Ender 6 after a good clean and hey presto sticking like a charm. Life Saver. :)

[@jacobmohr7623]

OMG!!!! I have had so many problems with printing of stuff not printing and I spent days worth of time toying with glue and hair spay. I always have cleaned my glass with isopropyl alcohol and "thought" it was clean. I tried what you suggested and omg that was night and day difference. thank you so much. you should have more like they you have you made really good content.

[@jacobmohr7623]

I don't get why people don't say this more often. all I hear is isopropyl alcohol is how you clean it. like yeah it helps but it apparently doesn't do what dish soap does. again thank you so much

[@FusionSource]

Hey Jacob, thank you so much for your comment, you have no idea how much I needed to get a comment like that. So glad it helped you.

[@gabrieleg.4667]

Hello and thank you for the nice video! I m struggling so much with an Artillery Hornet that keeps warp my prints, i just don't know what to do, should I put a 4mm glass on the top of the printer stock glass? Thank you very much

[@FusionSource]

Definitely try it, it works really well

[@gabrieleg.4667]

@@FusionSource Hello, i tried to put a glass on the bed but now the bed is too high and it is impossible to do bed leveling...another issue is that when the hot end tries to take the 9 points for bed leveling it collide with the clips that i put to attach the glass...

[@makingcookingfixing]

Dude!! I just want to thank you for this video. I have a CR10S, and I just installed a BLTouch. I was looking if printing straight on class was just a dream. For about 2 years I've been printing with masking tape and glue stick, and I thought with the BLTouch, I would almost have to tape my entire bed and avoid seam lines. I followed your instructions and for the FIRST time, I printed a part straight on the glass!!! I almost can't believe it! I thought that I needed to buy these (new mats?) that they have. But I'm very glad I have found your video. A big thank you!

[@FusionSource]

Dude, thank you for your awesome comment, that really lifted my spirits, so glad it worked, I have been using glass for ages. What I love is how smooth it is when it comes off.

[@makingcookingfixing]

@@FusionSource exactly! When I pulled it off, the bottom of the print looks just like the glass, flat, smooth and shiny!

[@kylevargo6418]

Wow!!! After 3+ failed prints and trying other solutions this worked extremely well. 10/10. I only had regular dish soap and it still worked wonders.

[@FusionSource]

Great to hear Kyle, thank you for your comment. Yeah, amazing how well dish washing liquid works.

[@felix8313]

Thank you so much for your trick. I was having problem sticking on my bed even with adhesive. Now it all works great.

[@FusionSource]

You are most welcome

[@michaelmarsh5924]

I have used an Ender 3 V2 for about 6 months, and I have always had to print with brim. I tried this as an experiment, and it worked!!! Not more alcohol wipes for me - strictly lemon scented dish soap from now on! 😀

[@FusionSource]

Awesome Michael, glad to hear and thank you for the comment.

[@crispychicken2743]

P.s. small basic print. Try again wit large round print with a lot of infill

[@FusionSource]

Done all sizes on my glass without issues.

[@fc3sbob]

Well, I was fighting with Glue sticks, but this worked beautifully! I did slow down my first layer a lot as well.

[@FusionSource]

That's great! Glad it helped

[@fc3sbob]

@@FusionSource Thank you. I'm finding that my prints are UBER stuck to the plate 10x more than with glue even after cooling to room temp and that's after raising the Z a bit. I might have to go a bit more. First layer looks perfect though. But I'll never have a part fall off during the print!

[@carloseropian1594]

hello, i don't have a heated bed. will flat glass work?

[@FusionSource]

Sadly no, when the glass is cool, it just releases

[@carloseropian1594]

@@FusionSource so i'll stick to painting tape. Thanks for your answer 😁😁

[@ramim.5856]

Is it a normal glass thickness? or should be tempered glass and what is the best thickness?

[@FusionSource]

It is normal glass, normal thickness. You can also use Borosilicate glass which is a better type of glass for 3D printing. You can also use mirrors, like those square ones for the bathroom, they work exceptionally well. I have used multiple types for PLA and it always works so well. I hope this helps.

[@agustinsaenz2581]

If you have an Ender 3 v2 and are struggling to make the first layer stick, flip over the bed and put the just glass side up. Do what this video says, and that's it. I had been struggling for A WHOLE DAY with the first layer not sticking. Now it did. Thanks a lot!

[@FusionSource]

Thanks for your amazing comment, I am so glad it fixed your issue.

[@Michael-1205]

First class tip. I couldn't figure out how to get the plastic to stick but thanks to your tip I am now a happy printer.😀

[@FusionSource]

Thank you for your comment

[@julianbell91]

awesome , new to 3d printing was trying so many different methods with mix results , prints lifting and not sticking at all , Cleaned with morning freash and paper towel works great

[@rallywagon261]

I was having serious adhesion issues with the top side of my glass heat plate. It has that black coating on it. I was also using the supplied glue stick. On a whim I decided to flip the plate and just print on the plain surface with nothing added. The adhesion is so much better now.

[@V8ToYy]

i did exactly the same thing, works far better

[@FusionSource]

Thank you, glad it helped

[@FusionSource]

Glad it helped

[@AntoKyuuketsuki]

I'm going to try this tomorrow, because I'm having no end of trouble with my prints. I tried a flexible plate and it worked for a bit, but I prefer the glass plate. I'm guessing after I've adjusted, levelled and cleaned both the printer nozzle and glass, I should have better printing.

[@FusionSource]

I hope it works, check your bed levelling and squish first

[@rikijamie]

This is great and all but a calibration cube is a super easy thing to print. If you try to do anything with details on the bottom i have never had it work.

[@blackpoolbootz2790]

Thank you this worked a treat. Not sure what I was doing wrong before using underside of ender glass plate now 😊

[@FusionSource]

Really glad it helped

[@andriimartynov83]

Wow that’s awesome. I’m printing now on the glass with no glue stick. 😊 Thanks for the video.

[@FusionSource]

Thank you for the comment

[@ODZZplays]

Wow, I've failed 4 times the same print. Followed this tutorial, and my first layers seems to be holding well (still printing). I thought the problem was that the bed wasn't level but now I know what was wrong. Thank you very much

[@FusionSource]

Glad it helped!

[@robertocoronel3704]

I’ve been doing this for 3 years now. Clean, neat output, convenient. No need to apply glue stick over and over again. Only cons is this technique applies only to heated bed. If you have non heated be, using glass is useless. You still have to apply glue

[@BrightNightTech]

Definitely going to try this, I’ve been struggling with my CR-10 glass bed, nothing is sticking to it anymore and I’ve been using glue sticks and the glue just dries and hardens :/ I’m hoping this works! Thanks!

[@FusionSource]

Good luck! Did it work?

[@stevemiller9299]

Here's a quick tip, put your glass bed with the print still on it in the freezer for 5 mins, the print will just pop off no problem, this works for PETG too

[@FusionSource]

I will try that, especially for PetG

[@inoahmann7542]

Using this method I've been throwing my glass beds in the freezer to get my prints off. I had one large print pop off so violently it dented the top of my freezer and knocked the door open. (This method works very well, not sure if it made any difference but I'm using soda lime glass, not borosilicate)

[@FusionSource]

LOL, that is actually quite funny, was this for PETG? Pla generally just falls off when it cool, if it doesn't, you might have to much squish on your first layer.

[@inoahmann7542]

​@@FusionSource Nope, good ole PLA, lol. I was using Overture black when I dented my freezer and ended up with frozen food all over the floor. The first layer may have been a little to close, my Z limit switch is going out, I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet. I had Hatchbox blue PLA rip a chunk out of the glass when I was using a 1mm nozzle. Overture and Hatchbox stick a bit too well, but my prints with Solutech PLA pop off nicely when they cool down. I also accidently printed PETG straight on glass, I didn't have any issues, It fell right off the bed after it cooled down. Maybe my strange results have something to do with me using soda-lime glass as opposed to borosilicate.

[@stephengohl2662]

cool to find another Saffa into 3D printing and doing some youtubing.. I just printed PETG directly on to glass , but did so using a raft base... as soon as printing stops, the raft comes off very easily with the spatula / scrapper and then left the printed item to cool.. maybe I just got lucky.

[@FusionSource]

Howsit Stephen. Shot Bro, lekker to have you watching my channel. Shot for the sub.

[@deltapi8859]

I do it exactly like you do, but with vinyl gloves (I'm the clumsy type :D ) and then I go over with IPA.

[@malcomeespag810]

Love this it actually works better than glue

[@jimhill4044]

Hey FusionSource Thanks for the video you just save me a new 3d printer..i have tried for the past 3 days to get the filament to stick to the bed and to no avail it never worked.....until i watched your video. i washed my glass bed with hot soapy water and leveled 4 time just to make sure it was level and low and behold it worked first time after I washed it... hell i tried to clean it several time with alcohol and acetone several time and none of it worked...Thanks again for the video it help me a lot...

[@FusionSource]

Awesome to hear, I am also very impressed with glass

[@c4pnk1rk]

At 3:35 mark the bottom right corner appears to have peeled up. Is this camera lighting playing with us, or was this really an issue? I have a single print file that refuses to stick to regular glass no matter how I do it, but a light coat of hair spray and it's perfect. I've checked to make sure my slicer didn't change the Z height and it's the same as all of my other prints... Would really like to get this one figured out... (An XYZ cube prints fine, but this crazy file prints about 3/4 up and then unsticks at near the same spot each time. Both prints are almost the same HWD dimensions)

[@justbecause4994]

I find it funny that most comments are replied to, but this one. The corner very much looks like it warped. And thus, being the issue. You can get PLA to stick to glass no issue, but warping is the next issue you're dealing with.

[@larryfroot]

I eventually got my prints to stick to the reverse, untreated side of a Creality glass bed. I found the z offset to be crucial after I had adjusted temperature, speed and anything else that wasn't nailed down. I went into the fine tuning, made changes on the fly and saved those changes after the print has finished before I turned the machine off. The odd thing is that, once cool the prints come off with no resistance whatsoever. Now I am configuring a sonic pad I had to change to a PEI bed for extra post print adhesion! The mount for the Y direction for the accelerometer sensor is best printed on the bed and kept there securely whilst the the sensor is clipped into it for the duration of the test. Obviously, my glass solution wasn't going to work as even a small drop in bed temperature could release the print. Oh, the glories of 3D printing. I'll never fully get on top of it but then, what's life without the odd challenge?

[@allan-1851]

Just change to glass because of this video; which bed temperature do you use for a bed glass?

[@FusionSource]

About 55 to 65 degrees C

[@LexxDesign3D]

The only time I've had PLA stick to glass was at 70 degrees

[@daveanything]

Hi, i am printing your idea right now.. I cannot believe it is sticking, thank you. One thing I am noticing as it is printing is the corners are pulling up. This of course never happened when I used the glue

[@FusionSource]

Check your squish, maybe make it a little tighter. Glad this helped.

[@cavinrauch]

Saw the thumbnail, came to like and comment since I've been using this for a while now !

[@FusionSource]

Thanks Cavin, it is awesome to print on Glass, it gives such a beautiful finish and sticks amazingly well while it is hot then just falls off when cool. Have a look at the video on the Views Counter, kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqDHhIeQlLetabM to see the result using glass and the technique Chep showed of embedding text, looks gorgeous on the glass. Are you a subscriber of my channel, please throw us a sub if you are interested, really trying to grow the channel and the subs will help with the algorithm.

[@FusionSource]

I pinned your comment because it is awesome.

[@cavinrauch]

@@notusedbrandaccount415 its depends on a few things but if your first layer height and distance is correct. Then yes the soap and water helps remove any possible oils that could be on the build plate that's stopping the prints from sticking. Just make sure to not touch the build plate after cleaning it your hands natural oils will come off onto the build plate. If that doesn't help then I think z offset is your issue as this was a pain for me when I started. (Assuming you have a BL touch or similar fitted)

[@OMEN-TV]

i wish i knew earlier that turning upside down my ender3v2 glass would do magic os stickiness..Thanks alot you saved me!

[@FusionSource]

Appreciate the comment, glad it worked out ;-)

[@Brabo1506]

I always use a glass (or mirror but same thing) with PET-G. I don't use any spray to make it stick and when a part is done I just spray some window cleaner on the side of the part and it pops right off.

[@deonholt]

I can second this. I print with no adhesive. I only use mirror, 3mm, as I was told it is flatter than glass. Keep is up. Ons gaan nou braai!

[@FusionSource]

Dankie Deon, Ja, Nou gaan ons braai! LOL

[@gheto4lif3]

Wow truly has improved bed adhesion

[@rongarza9488]

Newbie here. Would a final rinse with distilled water make a difference? Also, I'm assuming all temperatures are in Celsius (we're stuck with Fahrenheit in the USA), and all measurements are in mm (ugh, it would be great to dump this stupid inch system). So for PLA, bed temp = 60C to 65C, and nozzle temp = 210C to 220C.

[@FusionSource]

Hi Ron, nah, distilled water will not make that much of a difference, it works really well with normal tap water, just make sure you rinse of all the soap and do not touch the top surface with your fingers. Sorry about the temp and mm thing, yeah, I also wish that the USA would dump the imperial system and move to metric. Your temps stated are fine, the nozzle temp might be a bit high but check with the manufacturer of your filament.

[@rongarza9488]

@@FusionSource Thanks, FusionSource. BTW, I have a small piece of South Africa (platinum) at my bank. It's a small world!

[@oriel360]

You are a legend! Thank you for this simple tip.

[@FusionSource]

Thank you for your comment ;-)

[@HappyCreativeStuff]

Hello fellow... South African? ... 3D printer and KZbinr.

[@FusionSource]

Howsit, yip in Durban. Thanks for dropping by and checking out my channel, what you think?

[@HappyCreativeStuff]

@@FusionSource I think I will be watching your future content with great interest. I have been thinking about doing 3D content on a separate platform and channel.

[@marksneyd1262]

Would you suggest levelling my bed first with my paper as usual, then wash as I don’t want to touch and contaminate the surface?

[@FusionSource]

For sure. Only your fingers must not touch the service, as that is where the oils are

[@Ross3r]

Howzit. Greetings from Mossel Bay. I've just tried this on my Ender 3 Pro with a mirror bed and so far (It's still printing) its working a absolute treat. Thank you for the tip.

[@FusionSource]

I am so glad it helped.

[@The_Traveling_Clown]

What is the heated bed temp? Am currently using my heated bed at 60c.

[@FusionSource]

Hi, 65C for PLA, this works really well for me, I hope this helps, let me know if you need more help

[@teresashinkansen9402]

How well it works with large multi day prints? a detachment when its about to finish would be quite frustrating.

[@FusionSource]

As long as there is heat on the glass it will stick. Mine is sticking so well at the moment that I cannot remove it from the build plate until the print cools down. I would like to do a follow up video on this because I found that a quick clean with Ethanol hand sanitiser, it seams to stick even better. Again, as I say, while the glass is hot, it will stick.

[@teresashinkansen9402]

@@FusionSource Oh thanks for the quick reply. That's nice to know, my printer has an "ultrabase" but now its worn and the prints do not stick as well so I might just replace it for a piece of glass or just flip it over, seeing I don't have to be messing with glue stick or hairspray etc, though I been curious to see how well sugar works just for fun.

[@TJT8585]

Great advice for gloss sides. Thank you!

[@FusionSource]

You are so welcome!

[@Dodgefan44]

What temp are you running the glass bed??

[@FusionSource]

70C

[@thememerman8787]

You are such a life saver I will I could repay u

[@FusionSource]

So pleased it helped you

[@wingtipsworld5909]

I cant just remove my glass bed as its 800mm X 500mm... also i wonder if my glass being borosilicate glass will have the same results if i just wash it in place? i refuse to use sprays and glues but this glass of mine sticks to petg just fine but pla just fails miserably even trying to use blue tape. Will give this method a try though as i really dont want to order a custom sized buildtak sheet or similar i love the ease of how the parts come off when the bed cools...

[@juancamilodiazs6331]

I have a heated bed and I know i dont need the hair spray to make pla stick to the glass, but accualy I prefer using it,, hair spray is really cheap where I live (2usd / 6 months, printing almost every day )and I dont spend time checking how clean the glass is every time I print, i just sitch the glass cover and keep printing, when it cool down it detaches it self, sorry for my english im not native, good vid though.

[@FusionSource]

Hey Juan, I just don't like the mess of the hairspray and I find the plain glass gives the best surface but yes, it does take some maintenance.

[@disparky]

What's in the dish soap that makes the prints stick?

[@AdamAarts]

Do you clean in between prints with anything? Or just leave it alone and print multiple prints? I have found that my glass sticks best right after a dish soap wash, but after like 3 days or so it stops sticking as well. I print about 3-4 things a day and wipe with IPA in between them. I’m wondering if I should just not use the alcohol as much or at all

[@FusionSource]

No, I don't use anything to clean the glass after. As long as it does not sit to long and collect dust, so if you print daily, you don't need to clean the glass as long as you don't put finger prints on it. I don't like wiping it with IPA it seems to lose it "stickiness"

[@AdamAarts]

@@FusionSource yea I just tried soap and water and it lost its stickiness on sharp corners after about 2 days with wiping with IPA in between each print. I just washed again this morning, will attempt to not touch the bed and not clean with IPA and see how long it lasts! I’ll try to remember to post back here for future reference

[@AdamAarts]

So it’s been a few days and so far so good. Although the last print seems to have some lumpiness on the bottom layer, I’m assuming from small debris that’s piled up. What would I wipe the bed with instead of IPA? Just water? Dry paper towel?

[@kingdarkem]

Hmm.....i wonder if this will work with the overture silk green pla I got...so far its giving me huge issues...but i only washed it with nearly pure iso and acetone

[@FusionSource]

Thanks for the comment, let me know how it worked out.

[@pmsilvei]

You've just changed my game with this video! Subbed

[@FusionSource]

Awesome, thanks for letting me know.

[@mkdincturk1122]

Hello, how much thickness do you suggest for the mirror plate?

[@FusionSource]

Hi, just a standard bathroom mirror will work, I don't think it matters to much on the thickness as it conducts heat well.

[@Whakeen0004]

Question: is the bed temperature the same as the stock bed that was included with the printer or is it set at a higher temperature for the glass bed?

[@FusionSource]

Hi Joaquin, I use 60C for my bed and works really well

[@Whakeen0004]

@@FusionSource oh ok, thx mate

[@SpillYahSauce]

What about PLA plus? I purchased a cheap glass bed on Amazon for ender 3 and I'm noticing that the filament doesn't stay when machine is running and its skipping alot of filament any advice would help thanks. Edited: omg you're a life saver it's working unbelievable so all's I had to do was wash off the bed 😂

[@reneymcmonty7404]

For me it´s the opposite. Glas and PETG are working well for me. When it´s sticking to hard i spill it with cold water and it come off. No Raft or fancy cleaning. But no chance with PLA, aceton, alcohol, microfiber nothing worked. I got warped big parts and smal parts with zero adhesion. Is it possibly a matter of the kind of glas?

[@FusionSource]

Hi Reney, I have printed on Borosilicate glass, normal glass from the hardware store and on a mirror and all stick extremely well with PLA, what is your bed temp, I set mine between 60 and 65 degrees and it sticks so well that I have to wait for the glass to cool, then it just pops off. Are you washing with water and dishwashing soap, then rinsing with cold water, the dry with a paper towel, do not touch the glass with your hands where your part is going to be printed.

[@stonecoldtruth6047]

ive had alot of good luck with masking tape on the plate whether its glass, magnetic, stock etc. Maybe give it a try

[@WicksnWeights]

hey man , nice info ! but what tempratures are you useing for the bed and the PLA ? thanks in advance

[@FusionSource]

Hey man, thanks for the comments, sorry that I left that out, I used 205 and 60 C on the bed, hope that helps, have a good one and good luck.

[@WicksnWeights]

@@FusionSource nice ok thanks i am using this also but 200 for the extruder and my print came lose 2 times so far but it might be because of the print itself and maybe my speed when its going from left to right it 'hits' a part and then it comes lose , thanks for reply

[@jelrikcruijs2781]

@@WicksnWeights how warm is your bed?

[@IvanVolosyuk]

I saw the video and ditched my aging bluetek and replaced it with borosilicate glass. I did everything like in the video, but still struggle to get proper adhesion even with elephant foot clearances. I even put some thermal paste between glass and aluminium heating bed. 48-70C temperatures. May be 190C for filament to blame, but it is good for minimum stringing and decent bridging. Not sure what to do now.

[@IvanVolosyuk]

It turned out that I broken my nozzle and I couldn't print at any surface. Replacing nozzle helped and now I am trying to print on glass without glue again. Fingers crossed

[@daveben8485]

I upgraded to glass and everything was working well. Then one day my prints stopped sticking. I tried washing with dish soap and drying, tried glue stick. No sticking no matter what. I cant print anything anymore.

[@crispychicken2743]

Try an s.o.s. pad .first. it's all leavling and temperature. For p.l.a. try bed temperature at 70c then after two layers drop temperature to 60c

[@luciferfps-fury5814]

Do you have any forums I can join. I’ve been looking for ages for a South African community for 3D printing. If you do this would help massively

[@arijitghosh6378]

Is that a special kind of glass or a generic one?

[@TheRainHarvester]

Did you find out what you're off glass works? On my channel I'm thinking of recycling flat bed scanner glass.

[@3dprintingbybluebeard381]

I have a cr10 and it came with a glass top, so I am going to print the calibration cube like he did and let's see what happens

[@diygranite]

Glass or aluminum or steel bed with Zillagrip coating glue allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM PC with one glue coating adhesive

[@aviationnation6643]

What is your bed heat?

[@arthursoesman]

This works also very good for me also. When you have problems with difficult print objects not sticking good use PAINTERS TAPE on the bed...This works very good it sticks amazing good.Your object will stick good on the bed from the start till the end and stays flat.

[@malcb1864]

Wish I could get ABS to stick to glass. So frustrating tried hours trying to get it level and stuck.

[@FusionSource]

Yeah, ABS is a lot more difficult, I use Vision Miner's Nano Polymer, it works extremely well for ABS, even on glass.

[@malcb1864]

@@FusionSource great thanks i shall take a look.

[@stephenthompson5238]

Will a homemade Gass bed fix my warped ender 3 pro bed?

[@FusionSource]

Oh yes, for sure, add the glass and level the bed and it should fix warped bed issues as long as it is not to seriously warped.

[@stephenthompson5238]

@@FusionSource thanks! The warp it's kind of serious.... What can I do?

[@FusionSource]

@@stephenthompson5238 A piece of glass is quite cheap, better to get borosilicate glass, it distributes the heat well or get a mirror, also works very well. Put the glass on, level your bed using the piece of paper method and give it a try, I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

[@stephenthompson5238]

@@FusionSource thank you! You gained a new subscriber BTW😀😀😀I WILL Try when I get new filament because I ended it! I will let you know! Thanks again! 😀😀

[@FusionSource]

@@stephenthompson5238 Cool, thank you for the sub

[@xavierchaigneau5848]

Im just new to 3d printer and bought the ender 5 pro, my first 5 prints are perfect but I'm having a lot of problems with either the bed leveling or the print bed because it doesn't stick anymore. It could also be the new PLA I bought but I dont know how to fixi it. So im considering a glass bed

[@ninico38190]

Is it good to, when we don't have a heated bed ?

[@FusionSource]

Sadly no, you need a heated bed for this to work.

[@omarghetti]

do i need to have something on top of the heated bed or I can just put the glass on top of it?

[@chris2pher44]

I tried glass for first time yesterday, I did a X size of the bed and half stuck and other half didn’t. I ran it again and same. It seemed random where it would stick. I was running 215 and 65 for nozzle and bed. Is it the temps or need more squish? I was super excited to use the glass but gave up at this point, I did try use glue stick to but was same. Just scared to get nozzle closer to bed. I leveled with sticky note. The stock ender 5 bed I could have nozzle higher and stick no problems, any ideas?

[@FusionSource]

Hi Chris2pher44, the only thing I can think of is bed leveling and squish. Are you using PLA. My prints stick so well, I have to let the bed cool before I can take the print off. Also a new triuck I tried was using ethenol hand sanitizer before a print and it sticks like crazy, even the smallest prints stick well.

[@chris2pher44]

FusionSource - 3D Printing thanks for some insight, I’ll try glass bed again later in the week and If I get any results I’ll let ya know. Thanks

[@chris2pher44]

FusionSource - 3D Printing hey I think I found out my problem. I tried again with the glass bed and got it to mostly stick but my prints were turning out like crap so decided I’m done with the glass lmao so I put on my stock ended 5 bed and everything stuck good but prints turned out like crap still, so I tried all kinds of settings and still crap.....long story short I ended up changing new nozzle and I’m 100% confident that was my problem this whole time and just happen to be all dirty when I tried switching to glass bed

[@TheRainHarvester]

What kind off glass?

[@missmayhemandrook]

What if you have a non-heated bed?

[@FusionSource]

Hi Harvey, this will not work on a non heated bed unfortunately. As the glass cools the prints just pop off so if it was cool already there will be no chance of sticking.

[@TheRainHarvester]

@@FusionSource hmm idk about this. I thought it pops off because the glass shrinks as it cools. If it is already cool, it won't be shrinking unless the hot filament is enough to heat it (it may not be because of the thermal mass). Has anyone tried it?

[@stickboyfpv4742]

So I want to love the new glass bed I have... due to.. thinking it will be a more all around FLAT surface area and will be amazing for large prints when leveled perfectly....! BUT! Compared to the removable magnetic bed that comes with the ender 3 v2 neo... I must print SOOOOO SLOW on the 1st layer on the glass... but not the og magnetic one.. So why else use a glass bed, not only for the complete level surface area? The finish of the magnetic bed isnt 100% like the glass... but it's still niccce and silky smooth...!

[@BrunoSilva-ur7sb]

Can I set my bed to room temperature when my print is half way done? Just to save some time

[@FusionSource]

No, once the glass cools it releases the print.

[@hirampr21]

What is the temp on your nozzle? thanks for the video.

[@FusionSource]

For PLA, I usually print between 210 and 220.

[@hirampr21]

@@FusionSource Thanks for the answer I was doing 195 - 200 but I'll try 210.

[@vagautohaus4492]

imagine if every thanks was a dollar..

[@FusionSource]

LOL, yeah, that would be nice, thanks for the comment though

[@VanDerKeelenBenny]

THANKS works so good!

[@calebjennison8917]

"you don't have to use adhesives, it will stick without adhesives!" -he says to a crowd who only found his video because it in fact does not stick at all, with or without adhesives...

[@FusionSource]

Hi Caleb, it does, in fact, stick very well, I am going to do a follow up video on this and show that it sticks so well that I can even do small prints. Maybe check your squish and bed leveling. One of the biggest things I like about glass is it is almost perfectly flat and give a great consistency across the whole build area.

[@starwars2078]

What do you recommend for petg?

[@FusionSource]

This method works only with PLA and you get amazing results. I would recommend using hairspray or glue for PETG and better adhesives, like Vision Miners NanoPolymer for things like ABS and PC.

[@user-jd3ku6uz6b]

Can you please share the bed and nossle temperature I tried to print without glue it didn't slick, and it tried with glue it's not coming off I had a bad time later

[@FusionSource]

Hi, my bed is at 65 Degrees C and the filament is at 210. Make sure you have leveled the bed and have enough squish. Also, make sure that you rinsed the glass enough. I have found rubbing the glass down every 10 or so prints with Ethanol works well to keep it clean. I hope this helps.

[@Polaris589]

@@FusionSource What's Squish?

[@FusionSource]

@@Polaris589 Standard bed leveling with A4 80 Grain paper leveling with minor resistance, as per my bed leveling video.

[@FusionSource]

Sorry, I read the question wrong, the term squish has been used in 3D Printing to describe how flat the first layer of the print is, you want to get the optimal squish, not to flat and not to round. If it is to flat you get something called elephants foot where the print bulges a bit at the bottom. I hope that answers your question

[@aaronfehrenbach812]

I have a glued figure on my glass panel and i have no idea how to remove it👀 right now im using alcohol but idk if that is gonna work.

[@adamsvette]

I used glass directly but for larger builds i was still getting unstuck. I switched to painters tape an it is ROCK solid.

[@kdilac8879]

you print on the glass without heated bed? or must heated bed?

[@leghunter9201]

Cleaning the bed made absolutely zero difference to my print. CR10 glass bed printing PLA @ 205C with initial temp 215C. Can't get the new PLA to stick with 3D Lac Plus. Cleaned bed and result exactly the same, glue or no glue. PLA's printing temp 190-240C. Must be the bloody PLA because other PLAs I've used stick to the glass like glue.

[@FusionSource]

Check your bed leveling and make sure you have enough squish between your head and plate. Even make it a little tighter. Also, make sure you use paper towels that have no additives in them, kitchen paper towels are best. Print 60 C on Bed and 205 C on PLA

[@leghunter9201]

@@FusionSource gotcha. I will try that tomorrow. Thank you.

[@SpillYahSauce]

@@FusionSource I'm using pla plus and im having similar issue I've calibrated my bed several times did test run that did pretty good but soon after that still have issue very frustrating when I calibrated bed several times.

[@danielroy8891]

I am struggling whit mi setting nothing stick to my glass bed even if i cleaning well Print simple PLA Setting for now 220 hot end, bed 65 Printer shark V3 Tks

[@FusionSource]

Hi Daniel, there are a few things you need to check if you are not sticking well, first, as this video shows, make sure your build surface is clean, next, check your bed leveling. This is so important that the first layer has enough Squish. Level your bed as described in my other video and make sure that the nozzle is close enough. Try a different role of filament, I have found that sometimes, the filament is at fault. Also check your extrusions, that you are extruding enough filament. Check on my channel for the eSteps video. If none of that works, please post another comment and lets see what else we can try. I hope this helps, good luck.

[@DiyintheGhetto]

Hello for Glass bed for PLA what Bed and nozzle temperature settings do you set it at? Also i have something called PLA2 that isays from 195c to 230c i think it's pretty much the same as PLA but i need a second opinion on it. What do you think?

[@FusionSource]

I use 65 for the glass bed and the filament is about 210, those temps work beautifully

[@DiyintheGhetto]

FusionSource - 3D Printing hello thank you. I have tried 60 for the bed and 205 for the nozzle it comes out great however the corners don’t line up right if I’m making a box or something that needs two pieces lined up together.

[@FusionSource]

@@DiyintheGhetto Check your first layer squish, it could be giving a bit of Elephants foot. Re-level the bed and try get it a little higher, that might sort that out

[@DiyintheGhetto]

FusionSource - 3D Printing sorry still kind of new to 3D printing. I haven’t done it in a couple of years. I wasn’t that good back then and still not here.

[@Summers.Swell5]

I was using PEI and think its faulty anyone have any ideas what to do with it, Used glass perfect but wondering if it will help using isoprpene aclcahole in between prints or if this will not do anything

[@FusionSource]

Are you printing with PLA? Have you tried washing the PEI the same way as the glass? Sadly, I have not experimented with PEI, maybe I should get some to try out and see how it works. Sorry I could not be more help.

[@Summers.Swell5]

@@FusionSource yeah I haven't tried but am probably goanna buy the pei sheet and stick that to the other side because their cheap and I don't want the spring steel to get to waste

[@adiipatel6215]

Hey i like this video but i have one question on this.. Is it use plain glass or tempered glass bcoz i want to know about this so i can use on my printer....replay please @FusionSource - 3D Printing

[@FusionSource]

Hi Adii, the glass I used is not tempered, you can use a normal plane of glass, a mirror (which works very well) or you can purchase the glass from a 3D printing supplier company called Borosilicate glass, this is usually nicely cut and clean for your current printer and this is the glass I buy. I got some glass from a hardware store that they cut, it was not well cut or clean but still worked well. I hope this helped.

[@adiipatel6215]

What is the size of glass means thikness this video is inspiring me

[@pr0xZen]

@@adiipatel6215 shouldn't go thinner than 3-4 mm, for structural integrity if a print gets stubbornly stuck, but there's not really a Z-height limit. Just understand it might eat into your max print height, and remember to recalibrate your Z-axis, as your bed now sits higher but the printer doesn't know that yet. Also, the thicker the glass gets, the more thermal mass it will have and it will take longer to heat up to temperature before print and cool down afterwards.

[@adiipatel6215]

I put 4 mm glass on bed and it works good and dont need any type of glue and oil spray for stick it works good and thank you for the info

[@g1wrgakhs674]

what temperature do you use

[@FusionSource]

For PLA, 205 for the hotend and 60 C for the Bed

[@valdice]

The cube are warped on the corners, so this is not right way, in addiction you must wash the glass every print, so whats the sense to not use hairspray that stick everithing, and need to wash the glass every print too?

[@Pointedpage3]

Temp for nozzle and bed?

[@FusionSource]

200 and 60

[@sophia-vn4cg]

i have an ender 3 pro (idk if it matters) and the prints aren’t sticking at all i tried to use glue but it didn’t work and i clean the glass and it still fails 70% of the time

[@vaykoden793]

Lower the z offset down .1 or .2 millimeters

[@tommymartin364]

does this work for models with small details on the bottom?

[@FusionSource]

Hey Tommy, yeah it works really well for small items. I did a test print a while ago of 2 tiny pegs and they stuck perfectly, can't find those pictures but if you look at my Instagram post, I posted a picture of small lettering that was impregnated into another print and those letters stuck very well, have a look at my Instagram feed instagram.com/fusionsource3d/. Also the prints are so smooth and clean, I love printing on glass.