Prop Weathering Tutorial - Part 2: Acrylic Wash Weathering

[@benjaelee]

Why has youtube been keeping this gem from me?! This is the most in depth tutorial on how to weather correctly, thank you 🙏

[@OddViking]

Thanks! It hasn't been hiding, I just finished it yesterday and posted it last night!

[@frankgillam6912]

Loving this series as I put together my first armor set. Thanks!

[@Harrierbolt]

This video is criminally under-viewed, this is easily the most detailed walkthrough on weathering I have come across so far and it definitely has been helpful.

[@OddViking]

thank you so much! I am glad you enjoyed it!

[@joecnelson77yes]

Hands down the best weathering video out there. Cheers. TK-4602.

[@OddViking]

Thank you so much!

[@stevenscott8784]

Another thing to take into account is just regular military like movement. So if firing from the knee and you're a right handed shooter you'll more than likely have more damage on your right knee since that's the main knee that is down. or if you're peaking from cover, your shooting side will be exposed more so i'd say if you are going to add a blaster scorch it'll be on your shooting hand side. after all they are a military; so movements to and from cover, shooting positions, and explosion damage all have different affects. Like shrapnel will more than often have an origin point from a position bellow the waste, like a grenade or artillery round explosions causing it. just some food for thought. beautiful work though. keep it up!

[@OddViking]

Really great points! I love these examples.

[@richardksimpson800]

Excellent tutorial. I'm doing my x-wing helmet today and this was super helpful. Thank you.

[@OddViking]

Glad it helped! I love a grimy X-Wing helmet!

[@techbadbatch6225]

Part 2 was awesome! Movie style weathering is so vastly different from animated clone armor. Great to see you actually show how its done too!

[@KawiLover250]

Yes, yes YES!!!! I have been searching for a channel with detailed tutorials! Going to be making myself and my daughter armor and I needed detailed info! First one will be Jango and Boba Fett cause you know gotta do the family thing first 🤗

[@OddViking]

Excellent family armor idea! I am glad this will be useful.

[@bogdanstefan5362]

Just found your channel… I could watch your work for hours !

[@OddViking]

Thank you! I am glad you are finding it helpful.

[@GalaxyBuilt]

Great tutorial on surface weathering.

[@OddViking]

Thanks!

[@heathmorris6100]

I live in west texas. To get any kind of dirt or grime I just leave the piece in the backyard for a few hours

[@xxxxzorroxxxx]

Did great job. Love it do you have a video put it on.💕👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@OddViking]

Thank you!

[@TripleXmodder]

This is a go to process. It would be great if you would supplement this tutorial with something on the opposite side of the color spectrum. Doing this type of wash that leaves more of a white/cream colored speckle. Can’t find those tuts anywhere. Keep up the great content.

[@OddViking]

I do this same wash on darker helmets, it is just less noticeable. But my other Fuller's Earth tutorial is great for dark props.

[@jprodev]

So many good tips ! Thanks for this video this is really helpful 😀

[@OddViking]

Glad it was helpful!

[@seanyringo5008]

love this dudes work and attention to detail it's super inspiring I hope my projects come out half this good

[@OddViking]

Thank you so much!

[@stevengreen11]

This is great. I'm working on a jungle mandalorian and I'm tempted to do some of the carving and cutting with the files but beskar is pretty tough stuff. 🤔 I'm also going to lean towards slightly lighter browns in the second layer and stuff. I love your content! Thanks!

[@OddViking]

Yeah, those scuffs on Beskar don't make as much sense. But if you had a Beskar base, and paint on top, you could totally scuff the paint layer, just with minor things like coarse sandpaper, to give that paint some grooves to fill with weathering paint.

[@JustGeorgiaxD]

Thank you so much for these videos, they’re such a huge help!

[@OddViking]

Thanks! I am glad they are helpful.

[@bluemario89]

Sorry if this was answered in the video already, but should I be adding the deeper scratches and damages before or after coating with primer? I just finished adding bondo onto my parts and was deciding what I should be doing next. Anyways, thanks for the awesome content! This series has been very helpful for me.

[@OddViking]

scratches before the primer, for sure.

[@wesleyb250]

This is a great video series. I have a question regarding Mando armor. Since it is made of "beskar" would you recommend less physical weathering as it is supposed to be a stronger armor?

[@OddViking]

Yes, I do shallow dents on beskar, instead of sharper gouges. We know it can dent from blaster shots. To get those, I grind shallow marks, and fill and sand them to get a softer dent shape.

[@wesleyb250]

@@OddViking Thanks for the quick response, I appreciate the help!

[@sierra7534]

The priming that you do after the gouge weathering in this video - is that before, after, or is it the same priming you did after the filler primer in your video on filling and sanding 3D prints? I'm confused on where the weathering and priming happens in this video compared to the working with 3D prints video. Thanks!

[@OddViking]

I usually do the black primer after the gouge marks. If it is a dent (especially into a 3D print) I usually do some filler primer after that to smooth out the "dent" but after sharper gouges like in Clone Armor, only regular primer.

[@sierra7534]

@@OddViking Thanks! Do you have any videos on finishing the inside of the helmets? Do you put foam, buckles, chinstraps, lights or fans or anything in there?

[@OddViking]

@@sierra7534 No videos on that, but I do put foam (usually these velcro-in airsoft helmet pads from cheap sets on Amazon), and I usually add fans, and sometimes mic and sound systems, depending on the character.

[@CommandrAppo]

Do you have any tips for doing blaster scuffing kinda like on your bicep? I need to get the black scuffing around my armor, and can’t figure out a good method aside from airbrushing

[@OddViking]

I did that pre-airbrush, but layering on fainter black/brown paint softly. Airbrushes also work, but those kinds of blast marks tend to over-power the design, so I would refrain from doing much at all. I haven't done one since that armor.

[@CommandrAppo]

@@OddViking understood. I dont intend to do a large blaster mark like you did, but just a few small black scuffs. Im in the process of completing a Commander Appo, and there are black scuffs i need in order to be screen accurate

[@steveb1507]

This video has been super helpful and I’m greatly appreciative. My question, and maybe you covered this and I was distracted, do you clear coat after the wash weathering or before and then clear coat it again?

[@OddViking]

I clear coat after the final wash weathering, after everything is done.

[@steveb1507]

@@OddViking I just rewatched the video the other day and saw that. Thank you so much. I just finished a phase one clone trooper helmet for a client and I’m very happy with how it turned out for my first attempt

[@mikeneedham564]

So adding colored sections? Blue 501st etc, should that be done before weathering so its consistent with white underneath?

[@OddViking]

yes, absolutely. and also, the weathering can catch on the edges of the chipping, and scratches and scuffs should cross onto the stripes.

[@Phantix68]

what kind of process did you use to make the armour pieces, and would you recommend this process to weather 3d printed parts

[@OddViking]

I have several weathering videos on this channel that should shew what I do. these prints were purchased from Etsy sellers, links in the description.

[@brodyking7095]

Sweet! Who’s your favorite Clone Trooper?

[@OddViking]

I made the 327th Star Corps trooper, those are my favorite. I love the commanders, but I wanted to be just a soldier.

[@zachysmusic]

I am doing a custom mandalorian, and use spraycan sandable filler/primer. Do I do the physical scratches after achieving fully smooth surfaces, and then put another coat of filler/primer over that? And then paint base coat to primary colors on top of that?

[@OddViking]

get it totally smooth, then physical scratches, then just regular primer so you don’t fill those crisp scratch marks. Though for softer dents, which Beskar would have, I add those earlier to get filler in them to help soften those edges.

[@zachysmusic]

@@OddViking Awesome. Would a layer of gloss black or matt black then clear, be enough of a primer? Or do you recommend doing an actual primer, then black gloss, then primary color?

[@OddViking]

@@zachysmusic I would avoid gloss black in all cases where it is covered, unless you are doing a metallic like Alclad or Alumaluster that needs gloss. Gloss paint tends to have the most issues from prep, temperature, humidity, and also will sometimes react to different paints more than any other type of finish. I use a flat black primer. Primer is also not like paint, it promotes adhesion, and will even bond to slightly dusty layers after sanding in a way that regular paint wont. You also don't need clear until the end, it should be fill and sand, fill and sand, once it is smooth, primer, then color. If you are doing metallics, do those and then coat with a 2K (which is a pain, but metallics really need protecting with a 2K coat - not standard clear coat which will lift and dull all metallics, before masking).

[@zachysmusic]

@@OddViking Okay thanks for the info. I have some pieces that will be painted with Alclad Chrome or Black Chrome, and other parts will be non-metallic. So for the metallic pieces, Alclad gloss black is okay for base? And for other pieces use flat black primer? Those non-metallic pieces will still have exposed “metal” from weathering though. Also wanted to add the black flat base I referred to was a rustoleum paint/primer combo.

[@OddViking]

@@zachysmusic Yes, for metallics, you do need gloss, and that can be from Alclad gloss, or I have often done flat black primer and then 2K clear gloss to make a black gloss base. For non metallics, flat primer is great, though I tend to make the whole piece metallic, coat with Alclad aquagloss (that is formulated to not dull alclad metallics as much, but then I coat with 2k which sort of "fills in" the imperfections and brings the chrome back), and then mask off the chipping down to the chrome over several layers using latex masking fluid. If you look at some of my posts on IG (same username), I have some recent examples of the chipped chrome look, like on a recent blue shoulder piece.

[@_baby_yoda696]

Where did you get your boots from?

[@OddViking]

I think these were from Keep Trooping (formerly Imperial Boots), though Crow Props also makes a great set the I used on my other clone.

[@_baby_yoda696]

@@OddViking thank you! I'm printing an empire scout trooper and kashyyyk scout trooper helmets for my kids. I'm going to use your weathering videos for reference!!