OddViking

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@njproppreserve 3 күн бұрын

I'm a carpenter and a maker and always have difficulty with plywood shop and office furniture! This technique with Bondo+acetone paint application and sanding will be a fantastic alternative to the Durham's water/putty mixing that I currently do. Thank you for a very informative video!!!

@joboujp 4 күн бұрын

Great Video ! Would you be able to share the circuit for the LED chaser on the large crate ?

@OddViking 4 күн бұрын

it was made by Jetisonable3D on Etsy. I don’t know how it was programmed.

@Badkitty24 5 күн бұрын

I like to use the Sponge sanding blocks. Less stress on the fingertips, larger sanding area and it's flexible and it goes along with any curves. You just have to bang the dust out often so it doesn't clog up and stick to it. You can't throw them away as quickly as a cut piece of sandpaper.

@reyalskrad1 7 күн бұрын

Strange question, but if I don't fully sand off the bondo, the spray ends up having a different color on the spots that dont have bondo. Is the solution to put more coats of filler primer until they blend together, or should I make sure the whole surface still has that sanded layer of bondo on?

@markm75 9 күн бұрын

Curious, do you ever spray outside in the winter months or if its windy, how do you deal with those conditions? ie: warm up the cans and spray quickly and bring in? Wind, put in boxes and spray?

@OddViking 9 күн бұрын

I do! for sure I warm the cans in warm water, and if it’s cold enough I bring the props inside overnight to warm up. then I wait for mid day when the day is warmest. I live in a mild climate, it never freezes, but still it needs to be at least 55° and dry for me to paint.

@JustGeorgiaxD 10 күн бұрын

I’m starting to make my own mando armour, after a couple years I’m coming back to these videos!! These truly are a timeless masterclass

@slipknot42088 11 күн бұрын

my FDM prints are coming out very good but I think this method would still be useful on alot of bigger prints

@slipknot42088 11 күн бұрын

ugg iv had that back tube blow out happen with shoegoo a couple of times!

@joboujp 25 күн бұрын

Very nice videos helping me a lot! I have to questions, I’m about to weather my first crate and I read oil paint wash are more forgiving for beginners than acrylic what do you think ? Also If the crates are supposed to be out on tatooine would you still weather them with black or more brown ?

@OddViking 25 күн бұрын

I find acrylic to be very easy to use, but I haven't tried oils yet (I plan to on a build soon). For Tatooine, way more brown than black, for sure. Raw Umber and even more red is great, and look at my Fuller's Earth powders video, because that gives it a great dusty look.

@artic_huggy9113 26 күн бұрын

Bit of a noob question for you. I read not to put acetone down the drain etc., how do you clean off the brush when done? I live in an apartment, so I don't have access to outside water source.

@OddViking 26 күн бұрын

I use a disposable brush, and throw them away, but they can also be cleaned with acetone. The acetone will gas off in the cup, and leave dry Bondo, so just leave it outside for a day and there will be no liquid to pour anywhere.

@NessieKnows 29 күн бұрын

I am starting into prop making and this is very informative. Thank you

@SarahZhou-JLC3DP 29 күн бұрын

Hi This is Sarah from the JLC3DP marketing department. We are willing to sponsor you with our 3d/CNC printing service to collaborate on a project with you. May I ask about your interests?😊

@Christopher19990 Ай бұрын

you did an amazing job! Thanks for that video!

@Somegoodshorts Ай бұрын

Will the acetone mixed bondo ruin the pla print? I’m on the fence about doing this method with my prints

@OddViking Ай бұрын

these were all PLA prints in my video. acetone will only negatively affect ABS prints.

@TheGunganlorian Ай бұрын

“He’s got a THERMAL DETONATOR!”

@APBGOLF Ай бұрын

Great video, subscribed

@sergiom4300 Ай бұрын

Subscribed, you are the main reason why im improving on this

@b0080U Ай бұрын

Thank you so much! I spent so much time sanding and filling my 3d printed pieces, but even when I reproduced the process 2 times, it wasn't perfect. I'm hurry to try this technic.

@aboyne Ай бұрын

voice sounds like the mandalorian too

@jeremiahmcelroy2726 Ай бұрын

Dude this video was AMAZING. I have tried to follow other videos and I ruined my halloween costume in the last steps 2 years in a row :(. This was the ABSOLLUTE best video I found thank you!!!! (Mixing the acetone with the bondo + the type you reccomended and the details on how to prime + wet sand the primer is what fixed my issues)

@OddViking Ай бұрын

Excellent, I am glad it helped!

@TheSpartansFUT Ай бұрын

Nice video. Can you do the same with wood filler + water?

@OddViking Ай бұрын

I have heard it works with acetone, but have yet to try it.

@BruceWayne-qp1ux Ай бұрын

On my print I have some lines that still show up through priming where I glued the pieces of the armor together. Is it ok to prime the armor A LOT to get rid of that? I sanded it as much as I could, but it's still a bit visible

@OddViking Ай бұрын

You probably can fill high enough to eliminate the seam, but if they are too offset, or the glue shows too much, you may need to grind it truly flat before filling again.

@diegocarrillo1298 Ай бұрын

I love all of your content. But this one was so ingenious. I bet it would be helpful if you did a series on how to secure armor. I have issues with my shoulder pauldrons and vambraces. I’ve read some ideas similar to what you did here for the shoulder pauldrons. But the vambraces keep popping loose. I notice this issue with many people, I see the vambraces come loose a lot in photos.

@PixelsToPrints Ай бұрын

That is so smart!

@mackenziefraser5127 Ай бұрын

I wish I had found this video sooner. As per what I found on reddit, I used a wood filler to hide the gaps and imperfections. After sanding and thinking it looked smooth, I used a spray filler primer. I can clearly see many imperfections. Do you think it’s too late to sand again and go back to do this bondo method? It looks so great in this video. Thanks!

@OddViking Ай бұрын

I haven’t done it in wood filler, but I am sure you can do Bondo right on top of it. it works on Filler primer for sure.

@KojiWoji_ Ай бұрын

Can I ask if there’s any videos on what it looks like in the inside? With so many screws and electrical components how did you go about making sure it all sits snug without compromising the interior with screws sticking out and how did the electrical components get tucked away neatly

@OddViking Ай бұрын

the screws usually are in recessed spots with standard nuts, or acorn nuts (or plastic screw covers) if they would touch the costume. all electronics have some kind of box cover to protect them, and covers for cords (or run them down in grooves if they exist).

@KojiWoji_ Ай бұрын

@@OddViking I saw briefly in your fourth part of the series so I apologize about asking it here on the third part how would there be any chance you have more pictures of it on any of your other social media of how you went about covering it? is there a list of potential parts you may have used or things you found to use for covers over the led light bulbs?

@OddViking Ай бұрын

@@KojiWoji_ I have shown some of that in my build posts on Instagram, but they are different every time. Sometimes I use a simple two-part pencil box, and glue in some angle brackets to allow it to be bolted in place. I have used lots of small random boxy parts, like soap travel boxes, that sort of thing. I like ones with a lip of some kind that I can drill a hole to bolt through. It is different in every box, but I do always protect it with some kind of removable cover.

@KojiWoji_ Ай бұрын

@@OddViking ahh okay one last question I have is for someone on a budget where can we find greeblies? I went to a local mom and pop electronics part store today to grab a few and the price added up quickly, ended up spending $58 on parts I was going to use as greeblies on the bin. Any ideas what we can do to find alternatives?

@OddViking Ай бұрын

@@KojiWoji_ Finding the right ones is all down to chance, just keep an eye out. Look for old parts at thrift stores, old cameras and other 70's era tech has a lot of milled aluminum knobs, or sometimes good sci-fi shapes are in kid's toys. But it takes years of slowly filling my small greeblie bins, and eventually I have just the right part. Now I often resin print custom ones to fit, and there are some affordable ones on Etsy for sure, but still at least half of what I use are found parts that just work in that perfect spot.

@SparrowHawk183 Ай бұрын

Brilliant tutorial series! I learned so much, and really dig your Star Wars design aesthetic and approach to making these cases and armor sets feel so authentic. Amazing work! ❤

@Protect1n2 Ай бұрын

Thanks for a great video, I like to watch passively at work. Your audio was a bit low but I definitely understand!! Have a great weekend

@williammorrin7933 Ай бұрын

Ha, with all the prob up do. Could you possibly make a "bigger" camtono, and if you do film it? All the vids I've seen are just mods of the galaxy edge one.

@OddViking Ай бұрын

the Galaxy’s edge one is the correct size, so larger doesn’t make sense to make unless there is a reason. I love my customized GE one.

@williammorrin7933 Ай бұрын

@@OddViking ok, in one of the other vids I've seen you couldn't put the same amount of "beskar" in it as the show and I'm planning on trying to make some damascus ingots (as the beskar also I'm an amateur blacksmith) for a friend down the line and wanted to make a camtono also. But can't find any descent vids on how to and were to start. Thanks for listening me know.

@tsirrom1 Ай бұрын

Just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed your videos. Especially this one regarding the electronics. I started doin my own a few yeara ago and wish I had seen this video then.

@OddViking Ай бұрын

excellent!

@BrianDenson-g7v Ай бұрын

What is the process you use for making the dents in your helmets?

@OddViking Ай бұрын

I grind them in with a Dremel, and then fill them and sand them with full strength Bondo (layered up over a few thinner fills if there is a lot, so the Bondo won’t crack)

@BrianDenson-g7v Ай бұрын

@@OddViking thank you. Your content and this channel has been a huge help as I am starting to get into prop making.

@doriangerdji5659 Ай бұрын

Wow! This is just amazing, recently found your videos since getting into 3D printing. I wanted to ask, how do you get those custom LED displays into your work, like in 20:03 ?

@OddViking Ай бұрын

If you mean the OLED that has aurebesh letters, that is from Jettisonable 3D on Etsy. He does great custom screens.

@SparrowHawk183 Ай бұрын

Awesome tutorial and inspiring work! Pro tip for reducing the "staircase" effect of layers on curved surfaces: in you slicer software, like Prusa Slicer, you can enable "variable layer height" which can apply smaller layer heights for curved portions of the model, while using a larger layer height for relatively straight portions. Good balance for quality and time!

@OddViking Ай бұрын

Thanks! I bought these prints, so that was all out of my control.

@celowell_topaces Ай бұрын

I’m fairly new to prop making and just watched all 5 of your videos in a row. Thank you! They were clear and detailed. Can’t wait to try them myself.

@Chris119. Ай бұрын

That looks really nice but I could never work around chemicals like that. Bondo, acetone, sanding dust... my asthma would flare up for days after.

@1738Crafting Ай бұрын

Hey Mr.OddViking, I'm fresh to 3D printing, could I get these results with a Resin Printer? I reckon there would be less filler and sanding needed, but with a smaller printer pad

@OddViking Ай бұрын

Great news! With resin printing, you can skip this process, which is for filling in the texture from FDM printing. I have a resin printer, and usually most prints just need a light wet sanding for a minute or two to remove the very fine lines (more for the back if it had supports). I tend to start at 400 grit, and then 600, and then it is smooth.

@amcast562 Ай бұрын

There is many other ways to get the results you want but without so much sanding and labor. All the videos I see of 3D printers do so much work to cover up the printed texture and use inferior products. This is because they don’t know what’s available or the process.

@BigBamm55 Ай бұрын

I like to weather the weathering lol. Use scotch brine pad to add new scratches over the weathering. More depth more better

@marissaxx2186 Ай бұрын

Do you recommend the rustoleum filler primer ? I’ve seen some people say it’s gone downhill. Trying to figure out which brand to buy. Thank you !

@OddViking Ай бұрын

I know there are other options, and I have a can of duplicolor to try out, but I have used Rustoleum Filler Primer (not sandable and filler, but just "Filler") for everything. I haven't noticed a decline in the quality at all.

@StarBornW 2 ай бұрын

Hi! I stumbled on your video while researching for layer line filling techniques. I love that you didnt skip any part of the process and was very clear about your process and the steps. I designed a custom speaker mount for home theatre and printed it using PLA. Will the acetone + Bondo putty melt through PLA just like ABS? The speaker mount is load bearing (bearing the weight of the speaker) and I cannot let acetone affect the durability of PLA. What would be an alternative to cover up the layer lines in this case? For the final coat of paint (clear or matte) what would be the most durable coating? The speakers are in-wall mount speakers and I'm afraid that the paint layer will delaminate from the vibration coming from the speaker over time.

@OddViking 2 ай бұрын

these are PLA in the video, so no issues with acetone. only ABS is melted by it. as far as vibrations, I have no idea as I have never protected against vibrations. standard clear should be okay.

@bluemario89 2 ай бұрын

Sorry if this was answered in the video already, but should I be adding the deeper scratches and damages before or after coating with primer? I just finished adding bondo onto my parts and was deciding what I should be doing next. Anyways, thanks for the awesome content! This series has been very helpful for me.

@OddViking 2 ай бұрын

scratches before the primer, for sure.

@lobyone5901 2 ай бұрын

Dang I wish I had seen this video years earlier. This process looks much more efficient than how I was doing it. Great job. Will be using this method for my next project, Helldiver armor.

@bigtastyvids5006 2 ай бұрын

so when your print is in multiple pieces, do you want to prep them all for paint seperatly and tape the connection areas off like you did. or glue them together first and then do the whole bondo process?

@OddViking 2 ай бұрын

If the piece is better as one piece, like a helmet top that was printed in two parts but should be a smooth dome, I glue it. But for the most part keeping pieces separate is easier to sand and paint, especially if it is different colors.

@frankgillam6912 2 ай бұрын

Loving this series as I put together my first armor set. Thanks!

@bigvinweasel1050 2 ай бұрын

Awesome video, thank you for taking the time, truly appreciated. Do you have any tips on how we can get a rough texture similar to how it look on the bottom of a textured plate after a print, but all over?

@OddViking 2 ай бұрын

I haven't replicated that texture yet. I know some use bumper and truck bed texture paint for similar looks, and I did that once on a blaster handle, but I am not certain if that's the look you mean.

@iamVenko95 2 ай бұрын

This is so helpful !! Thank you very much

@ishybeats 2 ай бұрын

this was a great video. love your passion for prop making

@brettcave 2 ай бұрын

what was this printed with, ABS? Same sort of approach for PLA / other materials?

@OddViking 2 ай бұрын

these were all PLA, and importantly, this method will not work with ABS! Acetone melts ABS.

@brettcave 2 ай бұрын

@@OddViking gotcha! Thank you. Awesome video, i just posted for some advice on reddit and then stumbled onto this 1, I'll share it there

@justine2728 2 ай бұрын

Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time and going through your process. I love the idea of bondo and acetone!

@wesleyb250 2 ай бұрын

This is a great video series. I have a question regarding Mando armor. Since it is made of "beskar" would you recommend less physical weathering as it is supposed to be a stronger armor?

@OddViking 2 ай бұрын

Yes, I do shallow dents on beskar, instead of sharper gouges. We know it can dent from blaster shots. To get those, I grind shallow marks, and fill and sand them to get a softer dent shape.

@wesleyb250 2 ай бұрын

@@OddViking Thanks for the quick response, I appreciate the help!

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