Pros and Cons of a High Stall Torque Converter

In this video I talk about the pros and cons of a high stall torque converter. These are just my opinions on how it drives, so take these with a grain of salt. If you have anymore questions or video ideas please post them in the comment section. As always, thanks for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe!
#prosandcons #torqueconverter #jvgarage
Music: / pineapple-paradise
Video: • This Mod Makes Your Tr...

[@HoustonRocket281]

Good to see you back on KZbin. Good information for us with trucks and performance.

[@turboflush]

Best explanation i have found yet.. Comparing. Thank you

[@texmextu2]

Good info, a lot of this I didn’t know .. now I will be looking for a trans cooler ..

[@thaddeauscaldwell7101]

Great video . I'm glad you mentioned adding or using a larger transmission cooler .I'm in the process of building a Chevrolet small block 400ci and going with a larger camshaft . I plan on using at least a 3500 rpm stall for my application.

[@johnhall4427]

Excellent vid! Well explained info in simple real world driving terms. I learned and got more out of your vid than other vids by pros with long difficult complicated explanations, who in the end, dont really translate down what driving experience one will get from a higher stall converter. Always left me scratchin my head! Your vid was great at giving a good understanding as to what the buyer is actually gona end up with. Glad i came across your vid Thanx 👍👍

[@brokelahomachickenfry6497]

Finally answers I needed. I had a cam put in my Challenger. Runs great except stopping at low speeds or trying to take off slowly, it jerks forward choppy, surging. So, stall converter is needed for mine then. I just don't wNt to big of a stall. I figured between 2800 and 3400. But thats a good range. I have a 5.7 rt with a Stage 2 HRT Comp Cam.

[@bradleylovej]

I know you've probably already moved on and gotten a stall (or even a new car), but I love to talk about stall converters, so I thought I'd add my perspective. When looking for a stall, a lot of guys try to get as close to their peak torque rpm as they can stomach. I'm an LS1 guy. Our stock motors make peak horsepower at 4000 rpm. A 4k stall is kind of a up there, so the general consensus in our community is 3600 rpm is a good balance for high performance and streetability. That stall speed, 3600, generally means you'll have to tack on about 300 rpms more to do anything until it hits lockup. A lot of guys put 3200 or 2800 rpm stalls in their LS cars and are disappointed. But I think they drive very well, not very noticeable. I'm assuming you had your car tuned after the cam swap. Look at the dyno sheet and pick either 1) as close to your peak toque rpm as you can or 2) where your torque curve starts to get really fat, but not quite at peak torque rpm. However, if you really are worried about getting too big of a stall, you should still look at your dyno graph, and look at the lower end of your torque curve. Pick a spot where you are making some torque, but not too high of an rpm. 2800 or even 2400 may be better for you. I do have to say, though. You have a cam. A big enough one to cause vacuum loss at low rpm. Why would you not want to pair it with the correct stall? The stall that gets close to peak torque. Can you imagine cruising around and having access to like 80% of your torque anywhere, anytime, at any mph? Although, I guess if you got a big cam with a lot of overlap, you're already tossing gas out of the cylinder, literally. So, I could see if you didn't always want to have to rev up 300-400 rpms higher to do things. Would hurt gas mileage even more. But still, a proper stall would make your car insane, I bet.

[@TakeTheBluePilll]

The image quality on the intro was awesome, at first thought it was 4k.

[@l.g.638]

i have a 2000 silverado single cab with a 232/236 cam and 3600-3800 circle d triple disk converter which i use as a daily driver 😁 it actually runs really good on low rpms you do feel quick acceleration just by tapping the gas a little bit though

[@robertfalis9382]

Well worth it in my opinion I have a 3800 in my cam and header ls2 2wd and it’s a blast. I had a 2200 first and I can 100% love with the 3800 for the fun of it. Keep it up man

[@derekbigpowers1993]

GTO? Or corvette

[@thomasthompson4999]

Hi I have a tranny I purchased for my 68 mustang. 302 mild came hooker long tube. I found out the tranny has a 2000 torque converter in it. Any thoughts on daily driving weekends etc. Concerned of all the negative reviews

[@MrHevyshevy]

Very good video.

[@garythestarfish153]

Great video man, im about to put a 2600-2700 stall in my 06 silverado classic. Blew the 4l60 so im going all out trying to have a race truck in high school

[@cliffjamerson3107]

Thanks for sharing bro

[@rigo713se]

It's not miles per gallon it smiles per gallon

[@itzcuzimgreek32]

I just had my torque converter built and have yet to reinstall it. Can the chain linkage in the transmission also be a limiting factor or something that may need to be upgraded as well?

[@kevinAuman1]

Ohhh okay, lol at first I had thought you said 80deg for the trans I was going to say my 6l80e in my 08 denali sport 6.2LS runs anywhere from 130-170deg but it is all time awd and i do have minor bolt on upgrades ie intake with K&N, gibson long tube headers, MBRP installer series cat back and a superchips flashpaq F5 tuner... She is a beast for a 7,100lb vehicle it moves with stock 420hp & 460tq so im hoping im closer to 460+ HP with the minor mods

[@R0yL33]

wouldn't have hurt to let us know what cam you have , engine displacement, gear ratio etc.

[@UncleRayRayGarageEmporium]

Your torque converter must be calculated and tuned for your vehicle and its use. If you pick it by price only, you will most likely think it drives like ass.

[@dnegel9546]

I'm confused by this. The research I have done and from others input. They say you can run a 3k stall and just put it on fine. Anything higher and you would need a tune. (4l60e)

[@dakotadale567]

@@dnegel9546 you're going to need tuning for a stall to really have it drive right. The higher rpms a stall will flash to makes the trans computer do some weird shifting sometimes and even if it doesn't its best to optimize it. However what Raymond is talking about is that a 3k stall is not a 3k stall behind anything you want to put it behind. Weight affects stall speed. Gears affect stall speed. How much power the engine makes affects stall speed. The right way to buy a stall is to call a company like circle d. Tell them exactly what you have and what you're looking for and let them build you what you'll need to achieve that

[@guardiandogoargentinos1385]

@@dakotadale567 circle d?

[@bradleylovej]

@@guardiandogoargentinos1385 They make great stalls. Yank also makes really good ones.

[@rdudeb5058]

Thank you mine wants to take off when I come to a stop

[@whiskey_fly]

I'm running a BTR stage III in my 2010 Sierra, quick question.... what gear ratio are you running? Enjoy the videos keep them coming.

[@LuisHernandez-fm9pb]

3.73 are perfect for your truck. If you got a big lifted truck on some 35s . Then 4.10s but 3.73 would be perfect

[@AlejandroGomez-wx8dq]

@@LuisHernandez-fm9pb beautiful thanks for that before I got the 4:10

[@eldiablito1776]

So if a put a bigger torque and transmission stage 2 and my motor is stock would it affect anything or just what you said

[@barrykilts4506]

I have a completely new drive train that I put in a 3/4 ton gmc van to use as a test bed cause the nova it’s going in isn’t ready but I’m after info here,,, I called Coan racing about a torque converter and after giving them all my info for the van,not the nova(cause I figured I could have redone later if need be) so it would be vehicle specific.they gave me an 11” converter for a slightly bigger vehicle which is what I’m wondering about here because most everyone I see and listen to on here for pick ups are using 10”.Coan told me mine came out to about 2800-3200 but mine has no looseness what so ever but still works great.it’s near 475 hp with 3:73 gears and for me it’s not about showing off but rather info.did all you guys have your converters built giving the companies all your info or just go out and buy what you wanted?

[@billwilliams6433]

Before you get a stall ask the company if it’s loose or tight converter. Tell them what you are looking for. That will help you get the type of converter you want

[@bradleylovej]

For anyone wanting more information, they call this STR. Stall-to-Torque ratio. 2.1 is considered on the looser side, but not all-out racey. 2.5 is a race stall and will not really be good to drive on the street. 1.8 is kind of tight. Most of Yank's stuff is around 2.1 and they work really well with LS1 cars, among other things. I'm not sure where Circle D or the other stall companies fall in their STR.

[@curtisstephens5480]

This video lost me at the waves on the beach and the coffee house music. Paused to comment. Moving on to an apparent mechanic and knows that they are taking about.

[@tlcj3838]

I see that Padre Island intro!!!!

[@6ohaintslow]

What kind of transfer case do you have?

[@off-roadingexplained8417]

Does it help four-wheel drive off road? I would think that you would be able to crawl a little better.

[@XXD99DXX]

Hey JV Garage i am wondering how many miles you have on your truck? I have a 2010 Silverado with 130K km (about 81000 miles) and id like to know in your opinion if it is worth putting money into it for everything that you have in your truck. I love how it sounds and i want my daily to be just like that.

[@JohnVesely]

I did the cam swap to my truck when it had about 68k miles on it. I currently have about 130k miles and nothing major mechanically has failed engine wise. I did blow my torque converter and my rear end but both were known to go bad. It also depends on the transmission. If you have the 4l60e I’d recommend building that up first then add power to the truck. But if you have the 6l80e then you should be fine for awhile. But when you do mods to the truck just be ready for things to break, it’s going to happen, it’s just a matter of when.

[@ajarreola2070]

What would be a good converter for a btr stage 3 cam on a silverado 5.3 05

[@bradyevins01]

BTR recommends a 2600-2800 stall. That’s what I just put on my truck. I bought the circle d from Texas speed

[@HoustonRocket281]

What’s your average mpg currently? Get yourself ls3 throttle body for your next mod. Plug In and play. Better acceleration bigger opening.

[@JohnVesely]

I get around 13.4 average mpg at the moment. And I’ll look into that👍🏼

[@JosephNnbs]

John Vesely I got the acdelco LS7 throttle body from summit racing. It’s a 90mm tb to match our gen 4/tbss intakes. Only about 100 bucks not bad. I noticed a slight increase but it does affect the tune and kinda surges at 55 cruising rpm. In my case at least

[@1kings1918]

Question Sir. When accelerating with the higher stall converter, is it only faster up to the speed previous associated with that stall of 3400? For instance, before the higher stall converter, once you hit 3,400 rpm would the remainder of the acceleration through the power band with the older stock converter from 3,400 through 6,000 be comparable to the highstall converter for that same range, or is the High stall's *looseness* continue to multiply torque more than stock somewhat above the 3,400 stall speed?

[@JohnVesely]

That is a good question and I do not have the answer. I’ll definitely look into that. I have heard that you lose horsepower to the ground with a bigger stall because of it being looser. You can also get converters that have a triple disc lock up for WOT to help with the loss of horsepower due to slippage. So there could be some torque multiplication going on but I have no idea.

[@bradleylovej]

This is actually a complicated question. It depends on how loose your stall is. This is different from lockup speed (also known as flash point). The flash point determines when your stall acts as if your engine and transmission are locked together. An example of a flash point is 3600 rpm. If you have a 3600 stall, that means your flash point is 3600 rpm. How loose the stall is comes from its Stall-to-Torque ration (STR). If you have a high STR, that means the stall is really loose. That also means you will get to the flash point even faster. The third thing it means, is that your stall will not multiply torque as well after it hits the flash point. Stalls with a really high STR get to the flash point quickly, hit very, very hard at the flash point, then fade away. Stalls with a more conservative STR take longer to spool up and hit the flash point. They still typically turn faster than a factory torque converter, which all have very low STR. Cuz I mean, come on, if it didn't help the engine build rpm faster than a factory tc, then why bother, right? However, they still build rpm slower than a high STR stall. The trade off, is that once you hit the flashpoint, your stall keeps multiplying torque for longer. Just to give you reference, a 1.8 str stall is pretty conservative, 2.1 is in the middle but leaning to the looser side, and 2.5 is crazy loose and most people wouldn't have the tolerance for it on the street. Most guys opting for a performance stall get 2.1 STR and it does really well. Guys that are building hardcore drag cars typically get 2.5 str or more, and people who want to be really conservative with their stall get 1.8 or 1.9 and are often disappointed at the performance but like the street manners.

[@pat14lang]

I’m looking to replace my TC in my 8L90. Came across Circle D (2800 stall) and was suggested Circle D for the mods I have planed. Wasn’t too sure on it and don’t know a whole lot about higher stall TC. I think factory stall on kine is between 1800-2000

[@JohnVesely]

Just make sure you get a big enough transmission cooler for that torque converter. The cooler the temps the less likely it will fail prematurely.

[@pat14lang]

I was looking at Part # STL010 Sure-Cool cooler Flow~Control System and B&M deeper pan and dip stick to help. I didn’t even think about the cooler, but that’s an idea now

[@JohnVesely]

Yeah it’ll keep it safe, and honestly you can’t go too big especially if you plan on still towing stuff around. Since there’s a lot more slip in the converter it cooks the oil unless you get a better cooler.

[@erikrincon2150]

What gears do you have?

[@matadaniel]

buying a built 4L60 with 22-2400 stall torque converter tomorrow to go with my stock 5.3 v8

[@stevenchaney7396]

Well your first issue is it’s a 4L60

[@matadaniel]

steven Chaney 4L80 is to complicated...

[@John-jr1si]

steven Chaney 4l60 and 4l60e are totally different transmissions. 4l60 is more of a heavier duty 30 spline 700r4 than a 4l60e when they stopped utilizing the auxiliary valve body in 1990. 4l60e is electronically controlled, hence the e.

[@kreg500]

I’m building a 58 Chevrolet truck with 6.0 lq9 with a 232/236 cam, 4l60e with 3400 stall. I was told to get a good trans cooler.

[@JosephNnbs]

kreg500 trucool 40k

[@nickonickster1]

Who tuned it afterwards?

[@tayhay8]

Did you get the 278mm HP 3400? This is the one I ordered. Was worried it would be too tight daily driving but with the 2/B pump and stator I was convinced it was loose enough. Great vids!

[@jasonloera3358]

How’s it doing? I just bought a billet 3600 multidic/ multiplate stall

[@tayhay8]

@@jasonloera3358 it’s perfect for the 3.42’s and stock tires on my truck. Gets into power band on throttle fast, but stays low idling around in traffic. Wouldn’t buy any other

[@jasonloera3358]

@@tayhay8 with that high of a stall does it shift late into every gear? Like when it’s stock it shifts to second at around 2k rpm now I’m assuming it’s closer to 3200?

[@anthonyk]

Your truck halls ass dam, planning to do a higher stall converter on my 03 530i and cams with intake. Just wanted to up the power on my car a little bit and make it accelerate faster.

[@Whatthefuckisgoingon]

I got 3800/4000 i love it

[@davereith54]

Is it a lockup converter? What car? Engine? Tell me more!!

[@Whatthefuckisgoingon]

@@davereith54 single disk on a pontiac g8 it lockup low rpm but circle d no longer sells them as they may have issues so they mainly sell triple disk... its a 404 stroker also

[@bigjon.6258]

Thanks Bro..

[@gloriamaletta8667]

It's common sense that at very slight throttle or at low rpm in lower gears without being in lockup a loose converter is slipping gas mileage will go down or stop and go driving it's going to be less efficient most likely slipping and revving faster until it goes into lockup if gas mileage was better with a stall it would be used by the manufacturer there's a reason your truck most likely had a 1600-1800rpm stock stall converter gearing and weight of vehicle and where the engine makes power all have a large effect of the outcome l have a Circle D 4200rpm stall in a 2011 Camaro SS and it turns 2500-2800rpm very easily in 1st-4th gear at part throttle 5th gear it goes into lockup around 45mph then 6th at 50mph then it's much like stock just the slightest bit more of throttle pressure unlocks converter rpm goes up instantly and very fast you have to try to keep the rpm below 2700rpm at part throttle in 1st - 4th gear touch the gas your past 2200rpm off idle with a touch of the petal throttle response it wicked good it runs on E85 so it's cost effective but it burns it fast 11- 12 miles to the gallon city 18 highway at 80mph at 2100-2200rpm with 3.27 gearing and a built 6L80e automatic trans it's not daily driven but is out every nice weekend for a 25 mile drive l would recommend stay with a stall of 2400-2800rpm for daily drivers 3000 max but it most likely will not perform as well as a 3600-4600 stall would

[@nathandunn7383]

Bro I have a 06 Pontiac grand prix gxp ls4 I just got mine from circle D 258 mm 2800 stall with a shift kit and I already have a tru cool 40k installed already

[@cammed_chevy9285]

You also need to change the rear gears for a higher stall converter that’s why it’s feeling super lose u probably have stock gears

[@ThatLowG35]

Thinking about doing a BTR STG 3 and a 2800-3200 stall whats your opinion?

[@bradleylovej]

If you are going to get that big of a cam, you should match your stall to it. You'll lose a little more mpg, and it'll be more of a handful, but only by a little bit. Look at the dyno after you get the cam installed and the tune done and find where your car makes peak torque, then get the stall that is closest to that, but also that you think you can live with on the street. Whatever torque converter company you talk to can help you decide what works for you. A lot of times cams make your power band go up in the rpm range, especially Brian Tooley's cams. He likes the exhaust duration, lol. If your cam makes your power band rise to higher in the rpm range, 3200 may be leaving a good deal of performance on the floor. For example, I'm an LS guy, and our stock motors make peak torque at 4000 rpm. Now, a 4k stall is pretty big, and not quite as streetable, so a lot of us go with 3600 rpm stalls. Lots of our guys get 2800-3200 rpm stalls and are disappointed with the performance from them. Bottom line, if you really want to see performance, match it to your rpm band and don't be afraid to go a little bigger than you expected.

[@drptp5017]

Stage 3 btr requires 3200 stall.

[@AlejandroGomez-wx8dq]

I put a stage 3 cam it killed my torque ima get a 3600 triple disk will it fit that problem

[@JohnVesely]

yeah it should fix the issue

[@fordfiveohh]

Aren't you not supposed to use 4wd on the street? People say that... but I can't really see how it would be an issue as long as you don't have the lockers turned on... If it's open diff front and back...you should be fine I'd think...

[@thomasthompson4999]

Hi i just Bought a rebuilt tranny. From a guy. He didn't tell me it had a stall converter in it . Called him found out it was a 2000. I have hooker headers. A mild cam. Pushing close to 400hp on a 68 mustang. Im just getting this all together currently. Any thoughts anyone. Im concerned all of the Complaints on them but mine is 2000. ?

[@alphaknotts6757]

What lifters you using?

[@JohnVesely]

Ls7

[@juniornbs_5.374]

Hey what’s up man I’m going to swap my 04 Silverado to a 6.0 V8 and going to be putting Texas speed TSP high lifters stage 4 cam it’s 223/226 600/.600 ,111 LSA camshaft ass my daily driver and converter for this set up please let me know on the Comments below

[@JohnVesely]

I’m no expert but through my experience I wouldn’t go any less than a 3,000rpm stall speed. But it also depends on what you plan on doing with the engine as far as supercharging, turbocharging or keeping it N/A. Give circle D a call and tell them what you plan on doing and all your engine specs and they will put you on the right track.

[@JTrump23]

@@JohnVesely can you add a circle D converter on a stock motor(5.3)

[@TysonPaxton1214]

My car already gets 5mpg. Im gonna send it. 3800 Hard Hit

[@Broke32v]

How’s towing with a bigger converter in your truck!!

[@JohnVesely]

It’ll tow, just make sure you have an adequate trans cooler.

[@Broke32v]

@@JohnVesely oh no doubt it’ll tow I was just little more curious about mannerisms! Thanks man!

[@osoquanrunnit4372]

All i hear is buy racing tires proxies or street radial

[@dustintownsend7810]

I have a 454 squarebody chevy 3000 stall that baby turns up going down the highway it's not a lock up.but that's all I don't like about it It's a 350 turbo trans but thats why she likes to party

[@brandonaynesmay352]

I'd think you would lose the most gas on that long distance and maybe save a bit when idle in drive at a complete stop from my understanding when comparing to stock converter but idk because I haven't tried it yet. And not an expert.

[@bradleylovej]

It's the opposite. Long distance means you're likely on the highway. On the highway a high performance torque converter (stall) will hit its lockup, which means it will lock the engine and transmission together with no wiggle room. That's what every torque converter does, even the factory ones. So, on the highway, you're essentially driving a stock converter. It's at low speeds that the stall really does its magic. It makes the engine and transmission more loosely coupled together at low rpm, so the inertia of the car isn't working against the engine while it tries to build rpm. To go fast, you want this because motors don't make much power at low rpm, so you want to make it easy for the engine to spin up to the power band. A 3600 rpm stall means the stall is loose until it hits 3600 rpm, then it gets tighter and transmits power from engine to transmission efficiently. However, what this means in terms of gas mileage, is that if you'd normally be cruising along at 1200 rpm, now you have to go at 1600 rpm (or whatever) to go the same mph because the connection from engine to transmission is loose and it doesn't transfer power as efficiently, that's the trade off. Having a higher rpm for basic things like gently moving from a stop light means you car uses more gas. Think of it like this- at low rpm, you're actually giving up power because the connection between the engine and transmission isn't as efficient. This makes your engine work harder and use more gas. However, if you're actually trying to go fast, this is great because the looseness means your engine can spin right through those low rpms and get in the upper rpm range where it makes serious power, then the stall tightens up and becomes efficient at transmitting power.

[@Friedrich-Wilhelm-1980]

low stall is how i like to drive

[@brokelahomachickenfry6497]

What do you mean by looser?

[@Chevelle602]

Means it takes more RPM to get the car moving

[@PotandaMe02]

How much did that cost labor and parts ?

[@JohnVesely]

Free, I installed it. But I'm not too sure on the cost of labor.

[@theungoliant9410]

why would it try to push through at a light if you have a cam and a stock converter? Doesn't it depend on you idle rpm?

[@realblakrawb]

Match the converter to the performance envelope of the cam. Done. Not rocket surgery.

[@Texasmule]

Should I switch to lock up?

[@JohnVesely]

when you're cruising you should have it lock up.

[@Cuzntime]

If my drag car idles at 1500 rpm, and I use a 8" 4500 stall converter, will the rpm drop when I put it in gear?

[@boost1728]

Depends on how much vacuum it makes at idle. High vacuum? No. Low vacuum? Yes.

[@andywu8558]

Would you consider a 4000rpm high stall good for a 370z?

[@mrreviewsitall7496]

Dude get outta here 🤣

[@izhe_da_best1888]

​@mrreviewsitall7496 serious question people really don't know. I don't know but no need to be an ass. The car community should stick together.

[@OGfancy420]

I have a jegs 2400 I think. Ive had it about a year and I hate it. Don't get a jegs converter

[@JohnVesely]

Yeah I wouldn’t get anything higher than a 3000 rpm stall. It just isn’t worth it for the price

[@HoleshotEnt]

You don’t just go out and buy a stall you get the stall that your cam causes for

[@bradleylovej]

Bro, right? 😂 Stalls are slept on, though. Not many people really know about them, or add them as an afterthought bc they had to with a big cam. And not to be cagey, but I swear if I hear one more person say, "Autos are trash, manual is the only way to go." They don't know the magic and power of the stall converter lol

[@izhe_da_best1888]

What would you recommend for texas speed chopwcobra?

[@JimTMcDaniels1]

STOCK IS BEST!

[@Killian665]

I hate mine. It’s the worst mod I’ve ever done. Makes the truck not enjoyable to drive. Constantly revving the piss out of it to go anywhere. ‘04 Suburban, small Summit cam, heads, exhaust. I had a shop put it in when the transmission was rebuilt, it’s to the point where I almost thing somethings wrong with it.

[@JohnVesely]

How big of a stall is it?

[@kenneth9874]

Sounds like too high stall speed for the setup. You have to figure in the power, gear ratio, weight, tranny, application, and tires

[@TheJoedaddy831]

Research Research Research.

[@Slowmo896]

Driving a high stall with tall tires can really suck on a truck, been there before, it killed my truck, I am fighting not wanting a 4500 in my car to match the cam , so the cam will be coming out loosing 20hp..but it will be more drivable."

[@kenneth9874]

Putting tall tires without changing gear ratio's kill torque

[@danohara2211]

3400 stall with mild cam is way to much stall for daily driver

[@JohnVesely]

I don’t think so at all. I had a 2600rpm stall before this 3400rpm stall and it just wasn’t enough. It still lugged in the lower rpms and it still felt sluggish. Circle D even recommended the 3400rpm stall for what I have now. I haven’t lost much, if any, in gas mileage and I drive my truck every single day.

[@seanfatin9917]

Not at all. I have a 3800 behind my standard ls1. No cam just a tune n otr and its a dream. Thing hoses tyres

[@xavierdean4673]

JV Garage do you have a single disk or multi

[@xavierdean4673]

Sean Fatin single disk or multi

[@timh1187]

I run a 3400 in my daily too. Doesnt even really drive all that different. Just don't buy a cheap stall. You get what you pay for.

[@sportsmansparadice42]

Why are you using a 3,500 stall speed converter for the streets?

[@JohnVesely]

Because the truck needed it and it’s not that bad on the streets. I get the same mpg if not alittle better

[@sportsmansparadice42]

@@JohnVesely Do you at least have a trans cooler?

[@JohnVesely]

Yes, a pretty hefty one. Trans rarely goes over 180 degrees in the summer time

[@sportsmansparadice42]

@@JohnVesely Must be a pretty big cam. What's the duration @ 50 ?

[@JohnVesely]

It’s just 220/220. But it really cut the torque and since the truck is heavy it helped wake it up

[@kevinm8869]

5 miles to the gallon!! Wtf

[@kyleallen3857]

This video would have been much more helpful if you had given detailed information about your vehicle. You mention gas mileage, but don’t tell us how your mileage was effected. You mention trans temps, but don’t tell us your personal experience. New cam does not necessarily, “raise the power band”. In fact you could do the exact opposite.

[@JohnVesely]

I have other videos for that

[@kyleallen3857]

@@JohnVesely So your position is that to get the most out of this video, viewers should watch all of your other videos for context? No thanks, one of your videos is enough. The channel name “JV” Junior Varsity is appropriate.

[@JohnVesely]

What I’ve learned from having this KZbin channel is that I can’t please everyone. In the past I have gone over everything about my truck before starting the video. I would get a ton of comments telling me that I talk too much. So this happens to be the video I don’t talk about it.

[@deeznutzz101]

In my opinion, all modified cars should be weekend warriors! Who ever drives a modified chevy as a d/d you are broke!

[@JohnVesely]

You would be correct sir

[@zacharydwight7380]

Life is too short to daily boring cars

[@gregmf9427]

2800-3000 stall with BIG trans cooler. You’re a KZbin personality, YOU know you folks DONT give 100% of information that is needed so you can’t blame other KZbin’rs like you were doing here. YOU didn’t ask Circle D what THEY recommend for your application. I’m sure they would have told you you Don’t want a stall that big for street or HWY driving, just like putting a 4:10 or 4:56 gear in. That’s all Old school tech

[@mrreviewsitall7496]

And then no burnout 🤷🏼

[@imagoflyfishing9993]

Bro why did u get it if its doing what its supposed to do? Its for racing application, of course its gonna fucking spin out & hold up the revs & release. Wtf did u think u were getting it for?? 🤣

[@chriscimino7854]

A high stall converter is only good for track drag racing. I don't recommend it for the street for daily driving especially in hot weather since they generate more heat and lower gas mileage. Its only good past thirty miles an hour its a bolt on head start after that a stock converter can couple better at WOT than a slippery high stall. Even after going from vortex flow which is torque multiplication mode to rotary flow which is lock up mode a stock converter is still better after 30mph because its bigger around and can couple the power more effectively but only after 30mph. Street racing is mostly done at speeds above 40mph anyway and a more efficient stock converter will actually outrun a high stall past 40mph with the same cam profile. If you have a radical cam it won't be happy with a stock converter in drive at a stop it would tend to die out you would have to put it in neutral. Now in my opinion that cam would be too radical for the street anyway. If you don't care about launch which I don't by the way only if I'm going to the track, but for the street I would go with a stock converter and it will give you better acceleration above 40mph for street racing with any cam if you can get it to at least 30 mph it will really start going. If you set it up for track racing only then get a high stall that matches the cam profile but your wallet won't be happy it will love gas stations

[@josevazquez8201]

Buddy there is high stall , then there is stall speed converters they are different,stall speed gives you more low end, high stall is for top end lower gear ratio high rev engine.

[@clover7359]

I see no advantage to ahigh stall torque converter. I tend to prefer the lowest viable stall speed for each application. My philosophy is that the torque converter is just to get you going, and by 2nd or 3rd gear, the torque converter needs to be locked and the gearing does all the torque multiplication needed by the engine. I think it makes way more sense to regear rather than mess with stall speed on a torque converter.

[@hellwithit]

Wow. That's strip grade size. Completely useless on the street

[@JohnVesely]

I’m going to have to disagree with you. It definitely does drive different than the stock or even a mild converter but as for as my day to day it does what it needs. I recently moved and towed a trailer for 5 hours moving my stuff and it did just fine. As long as it locks up on the highway you’re not going to burn anything up.

[@hellwithit]

@@JohnVesely as long as you drive on the highway, right there is a problem for me anyway. I get 10.8 average as it is in my 2500hd 4x4. No need to make it worse. And off road on steep hills. You'll understand what I mean if you ever take it off road. Plus it is hard on everything else. But your young. You have a lot to live still. Good luck brother. Keep er down and out

[@globalteamwork4light]

lower gas mileage. reduced, irritating and noisy driveability in town. more trans heat. much higher first gear wear. spinning backwheels flooring from dead stop? well that wont make my supra beat teslas😏 no creeping in idle - imagine sitting in a queue. bugger! i do that all the time in town😳 no automatic reverse block waiting for the green light up hill. you will have to use the brake instead. no big deal, but a little irritating. well, i am not on the racetrack, but mix drive all the time. only racing other cars maybe 1% of the time? hmm - i guess i will choose a 1000hp converter - with stock stall...

[@ronmarshall7625]

Loss of mpg is a BIG DEAL.

[@realblakrawb]

Not when you're trying to be quicker. There's no free lunch, you just change the performance envelope for the best numbers in the column you're interested in.

[@BP-kc3dj]

Why in the holy freaking world would you buy a friggin high stall converter for daily driving? Seems like a lost cause out of the gate. Pretty stupid idea. High stall converters are for racing applicaitons NOT 4 TON TRUCKS!!!

[@JohnVesely]

Lol it’s not bad at all. Maybe with older technology yes. But these new converters lock up on the highway making it drive like stock. Also my gas mileage hasn’t gone down either. Definitely not a lost cause. Also my truck does not weigh 4 tons lol you’re about 2,000 pounds off

[@robertfalis9382]

I disagree I love my 3800 stall in my cam and header ls2 and I drive it every day. I also tow with it. Not heavy hauling but i do. Big trans cooler and it works fine. It’s well worth it depending on who you are and what you are doing.

[@timh1187]

Dumbest comment award goes too.