PROTIP why peel ply is important

Why use peel ply? A quick chat on why peel ply is important in your consumables stack. This is a little bit of extra goodness from our how to vacuum bag complex geometry vids. If you haven't seen these videos make sure you check them out as we show you exactly how we prepare and execute the vacuum bag process. Step by step vacuum process can be seen here • Step by step vacuum ba... and removing the vacuum bag here • Removing vacuum bag fr...
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[@MW-uq7we]

Good info, im repairing a carbon frame and i received peel ply to use. Thanks for the guide

[@youngbarnacles]

Good to hear. What sort of frame are you building? More details on the consumables stack in our step by step vacuum bagging video if you are interested 👍

[@Errcyco]

This is strange.. I worked in FRP mold making for a decade. For molds to hand layup and pull GFRG parts from. It’s a neat product but I always thought our magic was in our molds. I can’t begin to explain how technica and messy and difficult it is to do by hand. Takes decades to master. This sounded like some weekend warrior shit to me but honestly.. looks pretty practical for your everyman who needs to do repairs themselves for whatever reason. Neat.

[@paulbriggs3072]

Yes. I applied a small test area of Peel-Ply to the bottom of the fiberglass I put on my 16 ft rowboat. I found it was impossible to put on without wrinkling, very slow and frustrating to get those wrinkles out, and worst of all- the package of Peel-Ply came folded in a 7 inch rectangular so that creases every 7 inches or so kept rising up no matter how often I squeegeed them back down. They cured with a checkerboard of ridges and valleys that now have to be sanded or filled. More trouble than it was worth.

[@Twizter68]

So, gotta ask...why did you only reinforce it on the bottom of the crossbeam, and not the top as well? I would think that introduces a failure point in the structure.

[@youngbarnacles]

Your observation skills are spot on. You are absolutely correct, both sides need to be laminated. In this instance we only showed laminating the bottom as we laminated the top at a later stage.

[@bisayagamer4525]

Hi good day can i ask about the peel ply is that one time use or we can use it again?

[@youngbarnacles]

One time use.

[@bisayagamer4525]

Okey thank you sir

[@bisayagamer4525]

You have my like and subscribe

[@youngbarnacles]

@@bisayagamer4525 thank you.

[@moarefk]

HI There, .. I did a full skinning of my catamaran boat with carbon fiber, but I did not use peel ply and the finish is poor .. can I smoothen the finish by applying just more resin this time with peel ply to avoid having to use filler putty for smoothing ? Thanks in advance for your advice :)

[@youngbarnacles]

OK, so this is a tricky one to recover from without a lot of work. There are 2 options. Depending on your budget and resources you will go one way or the other. Option 1. Soda blast the whole skin. This is the best option for getting a good secondary bond over the entire surface. It has some draw backs, cost, availability, quality of your laminate. If your laminate is a little bit off the soda blasting will also take it off. Option 2. Scotch brite/scouring pad. This is a cost effective way but very labor intensive. It will produce a good but not 100% surface to bond to. This is also quite dependent on how well you have scrubbed or if you miss areas. Use filler for making a smooth surface especially if it is external on the hull. Yes you can apply resin and peel ply for a nicer inside skin surface. I do this on my boat if I am working in area where the manufacturer did a messy job. Hope this helps.

[@moarefk]

@@youngbarnacles hi there ,.. thanks for your reply. What if I just use electric sander and sand the whole surface , and then use resin and peel ply to get even and smooth surface ? Would the peel ply avoid the resin from running and fill uneven surfaces on my last carbon fiber finish ?

[@bigduphusaj162]

Hi mate, I'm a 40yr boat builder. You don't need to do as much as you think to get a finish. Here's the critical parts and an easy fix> -sand the excessively bad parts flay but not into the fiber just the resin, back off if you see fibers starting to come through. Scuff the remaining parts up with red mirka mirlon (they work the best of all pads on epoxy etc) making sure that every crevis and low spot larger in surface size than a piece of rocksalt has been scuffed and looks glazed over. In bits where you maybe have crispy voids you need to poke and file them out. Alloy wheel repair file kits are good for this and cheap they come with several shapes so ideal for a DIY on boats. Gouge out any dodgy looking voids or crusts with said files. Fill the bad bits with epoxy using a card and swipe only one way then the direct opposite way only as you don't want to rip the filling epoxy out again, just a quick swipe up and down. Sand back again flush then apply a barrier coat, when applying go on with a light coat first, let it tack down over say 20-30mins, then go on with a medium coat so it holds on the original tack coat. At this point you can either watch it like a hawk for a good 20mins to make sure it stays flat and no "epoxy curtains" or runners, it will flow over nice so then you just need basic refining to match the rest of your cat. or you can throw peel ply over it as a finish but you need to put a thicker 2nd barrier coat on if you do that and you need to make sure the peel ply goes on slowly and perfectly flat as wrinkles in peel will make you cry when you peel it off trust me. I use smaller 1ft sections of peel ply rather than large 2+meter sections of it when doing transoms, I just do not trust it unless it's in smaller sections & cut nice with no pulling strands & wrinkle free.

[@johnoregan4221]

What grit sandpaper do you use for the first sanding?

[@youngbarnacles]

Once you remove peel ply, you would usually use 120 grit

[@bigduphusaj162]

80 if its still rough but only to flatten it off. If its already flat enough then 120 but beware as unless you use decent paper/discs with epoxy it will gum up, you need to set the spin/sand as slow as it will cut if you are gumming up but also keep it moving you generate less heat in one area if you move quicker. The problem with 120 or higher if the area is still uneven is that it won't cut it back flat it will tend to sand mountains in into the high spots and be chasing the 'level-off' rather than the lower grit 80 or 60 that can easily level off most materials no problem. Ideally mate you want to learn the grits for yourself so you know it like a system. I appreciate it takes a while to learn but do a few test pieces and small projects that won't annoy you too much if you fail. Then just dial in you game so you will have say a set of 60 & 80 pads/papers for areas needing cut down flat fast, then your 120 and 240 game where you're ending the heavy sanding process and beginning the refining process. 400+ you are needing some good pads and scuff pads too the red ones (mirka mirlon red are the best and around 380-420grit) as at the 400 stage youl be wanting to sand the edges and angles that you purposely missed with the lower grit to prevent burn through, the pads are idea for getting all the hard bits done nice. Then the 600-800 you're looking to get imperfections out and previous grit scratches out, this is when you will start seing the lovely flat haze over the entire surface, 1000-6000 is the final finish refinement so you choose how good you need the finish by skipping from maybe a decent finish being 1500 onto 3000 or if you need it to be uber flat and no orange peel whatsoever go from 3000 to 6000 and if you have a palm sander or air sander get Trizact 1500, 3000 and 6000 and you can put a glass finish on ANY material. When I say any material I mean even fully removing the orange peel from the clear coat on your car within minutes and even glass polishing. Trizact changed the game from 1500 up. Its outrageous compared to any previous abrasive it completely wiped out any need for using "in-between grits" like going from 1500 to 2000 2500 then 3000 and needing 4 grit changes rather than just 2 to achieve the same result. If you do try trizact for final finishing you need to keep it damp so it gets a slurry infront of it, not wet just damp enough.