Prusa IKEA Lack Table 3D Printer Enclosure - Chris's Basement

[@OneIdeaTooMany]

2 years later, still the best guide to building one of these on KZbin.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@hendrikjbboss9973]

Make that 4 years 😃

[@AnthonyZuniga-ze1ud]

Make that 5

[@charlieeverhart6646]

@@AnthonyZuniga-ze1ud make that 6

[@heeder777]

I just built my second enclosure and humbly submit my tips to make sure yours comes out even better. In attempt to get my wife to allow it to be a fixture in our family room I printed the parts in black. The enclosure is proudly in the corner of my office. 🙄 Use a sharpie or black marker to hide the glaring white wood that shows through after assembly. Trust me, this adds a lot to the finished product regardless of the color of the printed parts. I found on the first one, the parts wanted to wander badly as you drilled them onto the Lack tables. I found that if you used superglue and attached the parts and let it setup overnight you could come back the next day and, don’t skip this, drill a 3/32 pilot hole where there isn’t an existing hole before putting in the screw. If you don’t, the part will rise, drift, leave a burr and not sit right. Also make sure the holes in the part will accept the diameter screw your using. Use some tape to make sure the acrylic fits TIGHT in the door hinges. I eventually used a light application of clear silicone to hold them in place while taping/bracing the doors in their aligned position until it dried. The magnets are hella strong, make sure they fit flush in their mounts before gluing. I used clear epoxy and allowed it to flow in all the gaps. Afterwards before it was fully hardened I used a razor blade to shave the excess off the top of the magnet and part. I hope this helps others to get theirs complete without all the little hassles that I had. I’m a perfectionist so take all this with a grain of salt. Chris makes it look easy, it was but the Lack tables are really cheap, i think the best comparison is you’re spending well over the cost of the tables so to make them work, you need to develop your turd polishing techniques. 😉 if you miss a hole, JB epoxy putty works wonders. Fill it, wait, repeat. All in all I loved the video and am responsible for at least 20 views.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great tips! Thanks for sharing.

[@iamspeare]

Your video is SO much clearer and easier to follow than Prusa's. I already had mine built, but watched it to see if you did anything different and picked up some tips. I was thinking of extending the power cables as well.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!

[@coffeeeater]

@@ChrisRiley Can anyone link me to a source for replacement longer cables?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@coffeeeater I just use 14g wire.

[@coffeeeater]

@@ChrisRiley thanks!

[@davidbow2743]

+1 for getting right to the point of the video, short intro and all!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks David, that's how I like to consume content, so that's how I like to make it.

[@irsalman]

Chirs, You're awesome thank you. I don't know how you make these tutorials as if you've done it hundreds of times already.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you. It feels good to be appreciated.

[@ARussianHat]

Very comprehensive guide! Followed you along with the first enclosure I built and reviewed this for the new top I had to build after damaging the first my only recommendation for people looking to make this and there may already be remixes of the files for the printed components available I slapped a foam sheet and two pavers under my prusa to help with the noise and you need to have either the tops or bottom printed pieces extend to allow the Z axis to move to its maximum height, I gave mine an extra 10cm but you could probably manage with as little as 6cm and keep in mind you'll need to either adjust your plexiglass size or compensate the added gap with something else I've also swapped the plexi for PIR foam on mine as I print PETG in the office I work all day in and while the plexi does help with ambient room temp it still raised it uncomfortably for me, and for anybody curious about insulation options I was told PIR foam is your best bet as things like XPS foam insulation present a much higher fire hazard, a nice bonus is the foam walls help lower the noise as well

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Nice mods! Yes, I actually did a lot of these when I rebuilt mine earlier this year.

[@IgnoreMyChan]

I must say, I LOVE your intro! So short and snappy. Absolutely brilliant!

[@ChrisRiley]

Ha! Awesome! I wanted something really short. I recorded just a quick drum piece to create it.

[@IgnoreMyChan]

Works great! Especially if you watch more video's of you after each other like I just watched the series about the RC F1 car :)

[@ChrisRiley]

Oh cool! That's a good perspective to hear. I never thought of that.

[@MatSmithLondon]

@@ChrisRiley Yes, me too - really appreciate the SHORT and bold intros! So good. I've always thought that it takes LONGER to make content that is concise. Concise communication: it's the sign of an intelligent mind.

[@davidolson7575]

Thanks again Chris for a very awesome built, your description on On assembly was fantastic. I especially like that you added some additional bracing on the third table. The creation of a smaller spoon holder Will work for the majority of us who do not normally use Filament on the large roll.

[@ChrisRiley]

David, thanks for watching and commenting as always and it was great to meet up in person this weekend. Hope to see you again soon.

[@dimitripapadopoulos5482]

When I built mine I also ordered ikea ledberg led as light. Was 12.95 € and does a decent job. Thumbs up for your nice video.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, Dimitri, nice suggestion.

[@FerTechCH]

I am jumping into the 3D printing world and your videos are very educational. Thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Welcome, thanks for watching.

[@leptoon]

Thanks for the excellent video. Your tip about TAP Plastics saved me a lot of money, way cheaper than local places in my area.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad to help

[@BradCozine]

If you're doing tall prints, it is recommended that you use a slot in the top to feed the filament rather than a hole. Failure to do so will restrict the extruder movement along the x axis as the z height increases. Options are available on Thingiverse.

[@ChrisRiley]

I have seen that issue on other machines, good tip.

[@pappysjourney3036]

do you have a link?

[@AthaxDesigns]

A slot ?

[@PatJones82]

Good tip. Thanks!

[@franktkalcevic5342]

Great video. I especially liked that extra level of safety, building it on an anti-static mat!

[@ChrisRiley]

lol, glad you liked it! Thanks Frank!

[@Robothut]

Great job on the video. It does make for a low cost enclosure for 3d printers that both looks great and works great.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I really like the way it looks.

[@woodwaker1]

Chris, you have a video on every subject. Thinking about building an enclosure and found this, very well done.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, we're working on it! Good luck with your build.

[@merrillalbury8214]

Built a plexiglass enclosure a few years back. Moved PSU away from printer frame like yours. Added exhause fan with charcoal filter variable speed, rollers with bearings (adjustable) on 2 steel rods on top, 3 LED lamps Top, back, front; sheet mirrors on back; Pi 4 bracket inside; slots for power cord to PSU, LEDs and USB cable. Prefab/printed all frame brackets, door latches, etc.24d, 20w, 18" h. Sits on home grown storage cabinet. May try and redo using Prrusa printed parts with my additional mods. Yours looks great, mine is rough but functional (cut plexiglass myself..ugh.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Sounds awesome, cutting plexi is the worst.

[@BV3D]

Thanks for the video, Chris! I picked up a couple of Lack tables for about $8 each. Super cheap! I may be putting one of these enclosures together this weekend.

[@ChrisRiley]

Sweet! Let me know how it goes!

[@stevesloan6775]

Man your build was way more then I was expecting. Great upload dude! 🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀😎🥳😉🤓🤓

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Steve!

[@Johan-rm6ec]

Great vid higly informative, if you want to go that extra mile. Installing an hepa filter would make this tut 100% perfect.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! That would be a great add on project.

[@uglypinkeraser]

Loved the video. I bought my plexi from Printed Solid for $50 per lack enclosure, free shipping. They're selling them as a kit specifically cut for the prusa lack enclosure, So no need to convert to imperial. Just checked again and its actually $60, must have been on sale when I bought

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! That's awesome that they are selling these.

[@joegrumpy1268]

Thanks Chris! I did notice that the Spool holders were too wide....after I printed 3 of them :D I'll definately take a look at the redesigned ones you shared

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Joe! I went to the trouble of cutting those down, then I found this really cool adjustable one, you might check this out as well. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867521 Thanks for watching!

[@joegrumpy1268]

Oh definitely! I'll print those for sure. I have everything set, just waiting for my plexi to arrive. Thanks again, you're a star!

[@dufric88]

Hey I love TAP plastics! I've used them for several projects now (including a huge custom Amiibo figure shelf) and they have great customer service and turnaround times as well as a huge variety of products, customizations, and tutorials.

[@ChrisRiley]

Agreed, I have done a couple projects with there stuff now, great to work with.

[@lpbug]

For those who have #12 screws and are too lazy to make a trip out to the hardware store: put a small zip tie in the hole and cut it flush. The zip tie will fill the space and your #12 screw should now secure things quite nicely.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the tip!

[@asdckndkdacndcdadnak]

That's genius, fit perfectly after that 👌

[@Hilmi12]

Thanks for clarifying how this should be built. Your video is a great supplement to the Prusa video

[@Andy203504]

Hi Chris, What a great idea and it look's very tidy... Many thanks for another great tutorial Sir... John...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks John, these look really nice when there done.

[@neumero4te]

Not sure if it used to, but the download from Prusa now includes an adjustable filament holder that slides narrower to wider for different sized filament rolls. I used a fixed size in the middle and adjustable ones on the sides and it's working nicely. I think if I did it again I would just put a single adjustable one though.

[@ChrisRiley]

I have seen those, that's a new stl in the bundle. A very nice add.

[@heeder777]

Great video! I ordered two sets of the plexi from TAP, I figured I would build another one so saved some shipping. I just finished my Prusa Printer build and am getting some great prints. The first prints will be these for the enclosure. I think I’m going with black PLA on the parts, I’m tired of my wife asking why I print everything in orange 🍊! Your 2130 driver video rocks as well. Love the channel.

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Glad you like the videos! Go team orange!

[@ottovp]

first american video using metric system? LUVLY!

[@ChrisRiley]

lol, still had to use standard size screws for the video.

[@librado06]

I love this enclosure I have been using it for a while now the spool holder didn't work tho I just printed a wall mounted spool holder for the wall behind it and if you have made any pla mods to your printer and plan on printing abs I would recommend reprinting them in abs asap I learned this the hard way I have a contract for alot of abs parts and any pla parts near the printer slowly start to warp

[@ChrisRiley]

These are really cool. I actually pull filament from the ceiling. :) Good tip about PLA parts.

[@brkat02]

thanks for the info, i found #14 by 2" screws work better and hold in the predrilled ikea holes, and the 3/4 inch screws are a bit short, so I'll be changing those out for 1" screws in the near future...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the update on your build! This could help others, thanks for watching!

[@brkat02]

Chris Riley no problem, now if I can just get my mk3 to complete a print w/o screwing up

[@ChrisRiley]

Really? What's it having issues with?

[@brkat02]

Chris Riley it'll print fine for about an hour and then stops extruding... started after I finished printing all the parts for the lack tables, Prusas's support has been great, they are shipping me a new extruded motor this week to see if that's the issue. Tomorrow I'm going to check the extruded gears one more time, make sure they are lined up correctly and tightened down properly, but I don't think that's the issue. Like I said I can get a great print for about the first hour of a print... then something goes wrong...

[@ChrisRiley]

That's a really weird issue...I will be curious to see what the cause was. Kinda sounds like a stepper driver issue.

[@nielssteigenga]

Nice vid! I really like the way you're explaining these kind of projects!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@PatJones82]

Just a heads up for those building this in June of 2020 and after. Apparently the design may have changed for the lack tables. I bought three of them and #12 screws for the legs, don't grab and get tight at all because they are too small for the leg pre drilled holes. I went to the hardware and bought four #16 x 2" Philips head screws and although they are still not as thick (diameter) as what came with the table, they do snug up nicely. :) OK, continuing my build now. :)

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the heads up!

[@lpbug]

If you have #12 screws and are too lazy to make a trip out to the hardware store, put a small zip tie in and cut it flush with the hole. Your #12 screw should now secure things quite nicely.

[@Caverntwo]

Nice! I've tried to make one as well (but not with the Prusa design as it didn't exist those times) but failed cutting the acrylic. I might give it a retry soon. Thanks for sharing!

[@ChrisRiley]

I hear yea, acrylic...ugh!

[@JAYTEEAU]

Thanks Chris, really enjoyed that. Cheers

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Jaytee! These are fun to build.

[@bigrickshaberdashery2759]

very professional looking and a great value. Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Rick!

[@matteocassino3172]

This is still a great project to build. But be aware of a couple of things which changed slightly with the IKEA Lack table design and also the altered design of new PRUSA printers (e.g. MK3S+), There are lots of new printing models to align with these changes. So I made it successfully in 2023. Have fun!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the info!

[@FlyboyEUC]

Is there a list of new printing models and or new hardware used? I just bought my table and rummaging through the hundreds of remixes looking for updates files is a bit daunting.

[@penguinlife9239]

Thank you for the help fixing my printer. I think that solved the problem. I just need to get z calibration at right height. Thank you so much.

[@ChrisRiley]

Right on! I am glad you got it working.

[@Vass881234]

Add a dehydration enclosure on top

[@ChrisRiley]

That would be pretty cool.

[@TSalem52]

how to do it please explain

[@LastvanLichtenGlorie]

Put another Lack on top with rubber gasket door strip seals along bottom of plexiglass and then put Dehydration pellet/clothing dessicant from a store like Daiso Dollar store water captures pellets in upper dehydration chamber. Here is what it looks like: images.app.goo.gl/wV7a8tb2hwur2gyK7

[@AthaxDesigns]

what would that be good for ?

[@RicardoSicks]

@@AthaxDesigns keeping filament from absorbing moisture during printing!*

[@sttm1283]

really like it that you speak in mm instead of your imperial one that only americans understand :D (we other could learn, but its tought to learn a old dog to sit) edit: i change my statement after watching it complete :D you should have spoken in mm regarding the screws as well :D

[@ChrisRiley]

I was going to say before the edit, I try when I can to get all metric, but sometimes it's really hard with certain types of hardware. Wood screws especially. I'll do my best ;) Thanks for watching!

[@dougjohnson1517]

So I built this thing against my better judgement because it didn't look like it could hold in much heat...and I was right. Trying to print Nylon on my Ender 3 with bed temps up to 80C, and this thing never gets ambient above 28C. If everyone is putting heaters in these things, or some other secret sauce, they're sure not mentioning it in the build process.

[@ChrisRiley]

I use mine for ABS, the print bed is at 110c and I can get it to 32c pretty easy. Prints pretty well. You can probably add some seals to help.

[@willierants5880]

Well done Chris, thank you.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Willie!

[@RevampedOutdoors]

Great video, thanks for heads up on the design and the build instruction. I guess I'll have to get off my butt and finally build one of these.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks man! It's a good build, takes about an hour, then it's all watching prints and drinking beer.

[@brucecox5884]

@@ChrisRiley wrong order :-)

[@TheDutyPaid]

I had no idea about this, it is funny because I even bought a Lack table to put my printer on it.

[@ChrisRiley]

There ya go! Now all you need to some printed parts and plastic. Pretty fun build, thanks for watching as always.

[@papagarouge]

Going to try to build one of these for my ender 3 pro. Will just have to figure out the power supply brackets. Might also add a cabon filter exhaust system.

[@ChrisRiley]

Check out this new one as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6mwi3iJmbSDp9k

[@thehappyextruder7178]

Great Video Chris, made one of these as well it was a practical build ! Happy printing.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Ron! These things really look great.

[@howesinc]

Very professional video, I enjoyed it a lot!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks John, much appreciated.

[@sungpowley2685]

I made a lack table enclosure a year ago for my Wanhao. Somewhat similar to the Prusa designed one, but doesn't look as nice. It uses a simple pc-fan exhaust that vents to the room..I still need to modify it to vent to a nearby window. ABS fumes are horrible. Though not ideal, I use a window fan and try not to occupy my bedroom whenever I print ABS. This Prusa design really needs a fan exhaust for ABS fumes and the excess heat (excess heat from a 3D printer in a bedroom you occupy during a hot summer day with so-so AC isn't great). Also, while lack tables are cheap, they are hollow and not dense enough - the whole thing vibrates too much when printing. I bought a Prusa MK2 that I'm building an enclosure for now - such a pain. I would actually pay Prusa for a more professional enclosure than what I currently have and this open-source design.

[@ChrisRiley]

Sung Powley Good points. It could stand a few more features. Printed solid has a pretty nice one. printedsolid.com/collections/enclosures/products/safety-enclosure-for-prusa-printers

[@patrickmaartense7772]

use a active charcoal filter system and switch it on after the print is finished, Im sure that works better part of the reasons for the enclose is to keep the fumes contained and the heat in the enclosure. but better : use PETG . same strengt as ABS, better printability and less fumes.

[@kmetze]

Stability was my main concern when watching this build. It all looks so flimsy. Like the whole thing will shake if you breathe on it!

[@meridacavediver]

Thank you for the video and the links. I'm waiting for my printer to arrive but I can pick up some of the stuff now.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching!

[@meridacavediver]

@@ChrisRiley quick question. I went and saw the tables and like the three table idea but am concerned about the stability factor. Your video didn't really show your final product (assuming you did the 3 table set up). Is it stable, does t still look good? I know I can "make it stable" but at that point have you added so much that now it looks bad?

[@nicbartman8866]

This is by far the best tutorial I've seen on how to put everything together. Does anyone know where he got this thermometer?

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! I use these. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3YC1BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

[@eoinreilly5469]

Does it do much to contain printer noise? Although I suppose you could put sound absorbing from around most of it

[@ChrisRiley]

The tables are really thin and hollow, so for cutting down noise, it doesn't really help.

[@madmike8406]

Good Video Chris. It’s good to have at least one enclosed printer to print ABS on.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mike! Always good to have one.

[@ricouxstephane1628]

Definitely awesome ! Great ! Thanks a lot

[@ChrisRiley]

You bet! Thanks for watching!

[@BradCozine]

If you're ordering from TAP, why not get a black ABS panel for the back so you don't have to see through the rack? 440x440 is $16 for 2.

[@ChrisRiley]

Good idea!

[@heeder777]

I was going to do that but color was only available on cast acrylic so I’m going to spray the back panels, from the outside with black paint. Cast was much more expensive when I checked it out when I ordered.

[@anotherangrynpc5014]

Awesome, clear to the point video. I wish it showed how to extend the wires.. what type of wires would I need? Im new to all this. I just ordered my Mk3s yesterday

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! You can use 14g wire to extend them. I would just create longer ones and replace them. Wire: www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-PRIMARY-STRANDED-Best-Connections/dp/B01MRYMY6Z/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=14g+wire&qid=1555430983&s=gateway&sr=8-4 Connectors: www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-BVST6-Terminal-Connector/dp/B005HQ4QTI/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_2/141-9741925-2440812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005HQ4QTI&pd_rd_r=6d5466ed-6062-11e9-a944-2f3383ee933a&pd_rd_w=i1lzI&pd_rd_wg=hsGnF&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=W4Y82YX8NWWCFZYSH3J0&psc=1&refRID=W4Y82YX8NWWCFZYSH3J0 Crimping tool: www.amazon.com/dp/B00079LN1Y/ref=psdc_553392_t1_B00004SBDI

[@hosparky1]

Great video again, thanks for the content. Just waiting for the perspex and then I can try printing with ABS.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Yeah, I can hit 32c, ABS works pretty well in there.

[@JasonsComputerCreations]

As of current 2/11/21 The 2 inch screws are too small for the holes, you can literally push them right into the holes in the lack table, No Threading at all. I'm not sure if they changed the designs/tooling for these tables. I'm going to have to run to the hardware store and figure something out. Awesome build guide though.

[@ChrisRiley]

Something did change on the tables. In the second build I used #14 2".

[@zimmy1958]

well done Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Zimmy and thanks for watching!

[@novaleary4488]

What kind of screws did you use? Did you use self-taping screws?

[@ChrisRiley]

I used these www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-14-x-2-in-Phillips-Drive-Sheet-Metal-Screws-2-Count/3034788 and these: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-12-x-3-4-in-Round-Head-Phillips-Zinc-Wood-Screw-6-Piece-Bag-809131/204587510

[@veloc1tyTV]

Thank's for using metric system!

[@ChrisRiley]

Ha, it's a struggle, but I try to whenever I can. ;)

[@SeamusHarper1234]

Build the table. It's awesome. Now I have issues with ringing.

[@ChrisRiley]

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@chuckcarlson7940]

The #12 2 inch screws don't bite much into the table top. They can be pulled out quite easily. Better to use #14. Maybe Ikea changed the hole size.

[@ChrisRiley]

A few others have said that, seems like #14's are the way to go now.

[@Xanubizz]

i'll be making one of these, good build

[@ChrisRiley]

Sweet! Thank you!

[@WilPagan]

Great Video, I'm going to order from tapplastics, but before I do, I want to make sure that your formula for measurement is L x W. I would surely hate to mess that up.

[@ChrisRiley]

All a square except the boards. The 220mm is width. 440mm is 17-5/16″ 220mm is 8-5/8″ (erring on the low side, it’s actually closet to 8-11/16″)

[@WilPagan]

Chris Riley I’m not going to use the lack because I have a CR 10 Pro V2, but I am going to use the brackets. I appreciate all you do.

[@PaulFulbright]

Good find on the tap plastics, WAY cheaper than McMaster!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Yeah they were about as cheap and easy as I could find.

[@trevorbrent5092]

I i want to do this and have 2 lack tables ready to go. I have my mk3s on one at the moment but there is lots of vibration. I can't imagine the vibration getting any better with 2 tables.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, it likes to dance around a bit.

[@harrydynes5134]

Put a concrete slab/tile underneath! Massively reduces noise & vibration

[@swagaroniyolonaise]

Nice work man! Building my own as we speak!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@ZebraandDonkey]

I have two or three of these for the kids already. Never thought I would say this though might be time to get to ikea.

[@ChrisRiley]

Ha ha ha! You're a brave man. I order them online only. ;)

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Chris Riley I am fixing up the printer and hen that is going on the list. Think I can get the girls to buy one next time they go to Ikea.

[@Johan-rm6ec]

Good tutorial better then the Prusa one. 1 thought i have. When i am not mistaken the filament sensor can have issues with led lights? Also dont glue the magnets with the plexi in place you will damage the plexi.

[@ChrisRiley]

The filament sensor could get confused by it, but I am not 100% sure. Mine is the MK2 so I don't have the filament sensor to test it out.

[@Johan-rm6ec]

I hope you will get the MK3 in the near future with an update video ;)

[@joshuabray37]

Great video! Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Joshua Bray Thanks! Thanks for watching!

[@Lamplighterone]

Another thing I'll have to build lol thanks! haha

[@ChrisRiley]

There is never a shortage of cool things to build. ;)

[@AminJorge]

Thank you so much for this video! Ordering the stuff now.

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Depending on where you are, some users have reported the #12 screws weren't big enough, might want to try 6mm or #14.

[@arthurmorgan8966]

That was a really nice walkthrough. How many did you have to build before being able to record what needs to be done this smoothly? :D

[@ChrisRiley]

Ugh, it was one and done and it took forever!

[@JohnWeland]

It might be neat to extend the control panel to the exterior of the enclosure. I need to get my a Prusia, my ANET A8 just can't keep up.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, that would be cool. I have actually done that to other machines and it is handy. For the Prusa depending on where you put it, you might need a little longer cables. I am not sure what the max length on those type of ribbon cables is. It would be a great add-on for sure.

[@ELValenin]

@@ChrisRiley just get an extension 😉

[@PatJones82]

Great video and thanks for supplying links to where to get the stuff! It wasn't clear to me what size or thickness of plexiglass to use or where to the get the magnets... and so on... I think I'm going to go for it based on the information you provided! THANK YOU! I'm a new Sub!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the sub!

[@brucecox5884]

@@ChrisRiley could find some magnets on amazon but only 20X5X2

[@ChrisRiley]

@@brucecox5884 You can try here, www.umagnets.com/p/20mmx6mmx2mm-thick-neodymium-block-magnet-n35-thin-magnets-super-strong-rectangular-rare-earth-flat-magnets-20-x-6-x-2mm/

[@MrFoxracingred]

I just started making this go to put the top corners on and they won't get tight

[@ChrisRiley]

The Lack tables have changed a bit over the years, on the newer ones I use #14 x 2" screws.

[@MrFoxracingred]

@@ChrisRiley thnk you i will give it a go

[@ajmiller3rd]

hi chris, really liked the video, I'm thinking of getting the ender-3 and plan on using your plans to build an enclosure. not sure if I'll use the plexiglass since I'm not planning on using abs. keep up the great work

[@ChrisRiley]

Almore Miller Ender 3 has been good so far. There are some feet extensions on thingiverse to make the table tall enough. Good luck with the build and thanks for watching.

[@seanf3264]

Great video Chris. I'm at the cable management stage of the Prusa i3 Mk3 build. I also have my LACK tables ready to build the enclosure after the brackets have been printed. I see from the video that you added a few inches of cable to the PSU. Is this extra cable length essential to connect the relocated PSU ?

[@ChrisRiley]

The MK3 might be a bit longer than the 2, so I am not sure, but you don't want them to stretch. Prusa says the stock MK3 wires will work.

[@seanf3264]

Thanks Chris.

[@terraxcell]

Could you could add a vent and fan to the top? To keep fumes out?

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure, it should be easy to make a cut and add.

[@TheEisforawesome]

Freakin awesome video man, well done! I need to build one of these for my Kobra!

[@ChrisRiley]

Go for it! And let us know how it goes

[@WorldWarriorCa]

Have you ever taught about doing a table above to make a filament warmer area combined.

[@ChrisRiley]

Never thought about it, but that might work.

[@Hogarth714]

Very helpful! Thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

You're welcome!

[@joseonlinemusica]

Hello Chris, Greetings from Spain, good job...you can put the measures of the screws used in metric scale please, I do not know how the subject of the inches goes, thank you, or add the link where to buy those measurements thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! No clue where you would buy them. 12x 6×20 mm (12 x 3/4″) 4x 6×50 mm (12 x 2″)

[@SteinerSE]

This is just too cool, def want to do this. I hope someone have made alternate pieces to make it work with a Ender 3 printer.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, I think there are some parts out there for it.

[@SteinerSE]

@@ChrisRiley I found a package for the Ender 3, but it was just remakes of some stuff and didn't include the bits for the PSU relocation that would fit the Ender 3 PSU :/ Still very cool and might do it.

[@joecardenas9681]

Great video Chris, thanks! Is there a way to remove the lower legs and mount the power supply upside down on one of the upper legs? I will have it sitting on my desk and is higher than I want. Plus I think it will be more stable without the lower legs.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! You might be able to. You would have to rework the bracket a bit, but it would work.

[@joecardenas9681]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks again. I actually found a different bracket on thingiverse to do exactly that. The designer was only intending to stack the tables and use both as enclosures, meaning he would have to mount the lower power supply on the same level, not below. Anyway, great job.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@joecardenas9681 Great, glad it worked out!

[@desireenatachagarciabarces304]

You don't need an extractor? What happens with the toxic fums of ABS prints? Very helpful video!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! It would probably help, but I just wait and let it dissipate on its own.

[@eduardozappi6397]

Hi Chris Very good! A question, what about the temperature impact for the mini rambo? How far up can it go the temperature inside the enclosure? I hope you read the comments from this video yet. Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

Hello, mine will only hold at about 32-33c, at that temp no worries on the RAMBO. I don't think I would want to push it much more that 60c.

[@martindonaldson4993]

Hi Chris great Vids!! could you tell me if this enclosure would handle the MMU too? or is not high enough? thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

The v1 is too short, they have a v2 that is made for the mmu2.

[@Shooter_FPV]

Stumbled on this enclosure a few days ago, nice setup. Question: What did you do with the black power cord for the LED strip? Where does it run to, or out of?

[@ChrisRiley]

I just ran it under the glass, there is a bit of the gap. Not a great solution.

[@frankvonthienen3862]

Strange thing happened to me... 44cm for the Plexi-glass is ok for width, but not for hight. The distance is abt 2mm shorter, I had to file the Plexi don a little, for unknown reason. Not sure where I lost the 2mm

[@ChrisRiley]

Hmmmm....I wonder if some of the parts changed?

[@ubermick4208]

Great stuff as always, Chris. How much filament did this project eat? And have you been able to find an alternative to Prusa orange PLA? The stuff is perma sold out!

[@ChrisRiley]

I would say about 750g, this stuff is really close. www.filament-pm.com/filament-1-75-pla-orange-1-kg/p189

[@ubermick4208]

Almost a full roll, yikes! And holy !@#$#@! - $30 plus $28 shipping to California from their USA warehouse!!! Cheaper to get PETG direct from Prusa!

[@AndrewSmith-lj6xq]

Chris, great video! I've watched it several times already as I print the parts to build mine. Just wondering how the superglue has held up against those strong magnets? Still hanging on? I've been leaning toward Loctite epoxy plastic bonder.

[@ChrisRiley]

The super glue is still going strong, although I have used that epoxy before and it's a beast.

[@AndrewSmith-lj6xq]

@@ChrisRiley thanks! Really appreciate the reply 👍

[@kevinakasam8874]

video like a pro. Very very good!

[@Wello789]

why isnt the motherboard placed outside aswell ? I mean the drivers would have a bad time in 40 degrees inside the enclosure no ?

[@ChrisRiley]

The temperature you will probably have in the enclosure will be less than 40c, the Ultimachine boards should be able to tolerate that with no issues.

[@Wello789]

@@ChrisRiley Ok what about us poor people ? What about Ramps, mks gen 1.4 and so on ? With LV or A4988 drivers ? .. btw would adding fans on the case of the board help ? Because it is still just circulating the hot air inside the enclosure.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@Wello789 Any air movement should help. A4988's should be just fine, they run a lot cooler than TMC's.

[@JMTosses]

Great work - I still need to print the parts. Apart from the bed wire guide which you printed in PET, what material did you use for the other parts, ABS or PLA? I'm sorry in case you said that and I missed it. Anyways - great video. Thanks for sharing! Cheers! JM

[@ChrisRiley]

JM Tosses All the other parts were inland and filament Friday orange PLA. Thanks for watching!

[@Leba2006]

Great Video. What material did you use for your parts?? And what brand is it? I'm having trouble printing them in PETG. :(

[@ChrisRiley]

All the orange is filament Friday pla. The black is inland PETG.

[@avejst]

Thanks for sharing 😀👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching!

[@PossumMedic]

Great vid and awesome editing thanks! :D Would have liked to see a bit more footage of the finished product. Did you end up using the 3rd table?

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, I should have done a little more walk through footage. I did use a third one, I attached it with L brackets. I am actually getting ready to do another enclosure video soon.

[@MatSmithLondon]

@@ChrisRiley Have you done that other enclosure video Chris? This was a great video. I'm currently printing the parts and sourcing the various plexiglass, magnets, etc. I'm concerned about stability, so may need some serious brackets and concrete blocks to put under the whole lot!

[@ChrisRiley]

@@MatSmithLondon I haven't done any other permanent enclosure videos than this one, but I do plan on and ender 3 enclosure video. I want to look into the whole concrete block thing.

[@stevenplahn5415]

Thanks for the video Chris, very well done. I'm not sure if I'm overlooking something but I can't seem to see the files or links to the reinforcement brackets for the MK2 and MK3 (I need both) that support the frame once the psu is removed. Would be greatly appreciated if you or one of your other subscribers could point me in the right direction.

[@ChrisRiley]

Steven Plahn Sure, here is the mk3 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859884 Mk2 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862896

[@stevenplahn5415]

Mate, you are awesome! Thank you

[@DAGODER]

Chris can you do an enclosure using the IKEA Lack Table for the Ender 3? I will send you beer money. I have looked around online, and have not been able to find one that gets good reviews. Or someone send a link to a good IKEA Lack Enclosure for Ender 3.

[@ChrisRiley]

I am actually working on that now, stay tuned.

[@AtrumNoxProductions]

This is really cool, and I know I am two years too late, but what if you connected the Smoke Detector alarm to an Arduino (plus the alarm) so when it sends the alarm signal, it 1; cuts power to the Lack Rack and 2; emails/texts you that the detector went off. (Maybe 3, send a photo so you know if it is a false alarm or not)

[@ChrisRiley]

That is a really good idea, maybe even add another temp sensor in there as well.