Ender 3 - Prusa V2 Lack Table - Enclosure Build - Chris's Basement

[@AustinMCraigDoesNeatStuff]

Got an Ender 3v2 for Christmas, and been looking all over for the right Lack enclosure plan. Found it. This is it. Thank you for posting this.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great to hear! Enjoy!

[@drug2]

Your V2 fit in? I have the same. Did you put the PSU outside and how did you print the parts some of them are bigger then the bed

[@ChrisRiley]

@@drug2 The V2 fits, but yes, the power supply is slimmer, and the parts are made for a Prusa bed, you would need to split some of them.

[@LifeHacksbyStacy]

@@ChrisRiley what do you mean split some of them? Thank you!

[@PPGMatt]

Appreciate the awesome walkthrough! Just ordered my doors today, decided to go with hardboard on the other 3 sides to contain the light. Also a big thank you for providing the modified parts as well a part list for additional parts used. My only critique is the absence of quantity required for construction. Appreciate all you do for the community, thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your insight. Good luck with your projects!

[@jon9947]

I always thought these lack enclosures looked really neat, but it took me a long time to understand why anyone would want one. I just always assumed that if you owned a 3d printer, you probably owned a table saw and other tools that I always thought every maker should have. Some day I might quit making assumptions haha Good video, hope you have a wonderful New Years.

[@ChrisRiley]

It's just kind of fun to use other cheap items to build things I think. It's a fun build for sure.

[@valyo007]

​@@ChrisRiley The end result is a shaking cabinet, not worth it considering the money spent on the wood-less tables, plexiglass and 200h of printed parts.

[@leptoon]

@@valyo007 Correction. The end result is what you make it. Period. If you have a wobbly cabinet made of IKEA Lack tables, consider what you could do to make it less wobbly. You are the ultimate cause of your own effect. As one over engineered example, you could use a steel girder to support wedding cake.

[@Deathbysnusnu125]

One thing I have learned is that having a house big enough to have a shop with tools and a yard that usually comes with that house means you have to spend a lot of time maintaining the yard and house. This leaves you less time for the hobbies. That and lumber these days costs a ton. These tables are next to nothing.

[@xXxSINNERxXx619]

Probably the best step by step video for an enclosure so far.. Thank you for this video.

[@ChrisRiley]

I enjoyed making this. Thanks for watching.

[@ianhaylock7409]

I made a similar enclosure for my ender 3 last June. If I were to do it again I would just buy some 2x2 and some 10mm ply. It would save all the 3D printing and work just as well.

[@JasonEllingsworth]

and probably be much more solid since there is no way this thing makes good prints with that shaky table.

[@ianhaylock7409]

@@JasonEllingsworth Actually it works quite well. I can now print ABS reliably on my Ender 3, and it comes out really well.

[@ChrisRiley]

There is room for improvement on these for sure, sometime these are an excuse to print stuff. :)

[@Shooter_FPV]

Thank you SO MUCH for posting this... was going to start the v1 of the Prusa enclosure on Monday... wanted to originally do this one, but didn't want to mod it too much for my Ender... THANKS!!!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help

[@N1FNE]

One thing I've found is that to make adhesive-backed items stick to a porous surface like MDF or the like, use some gloss spray paint or clear coat spray. The smooth surface the paint provides will make the adhesive REALLY grip like it was intended. The LED strips will then stay put. I do like your mount blocks for the LEDs though. I think they'll come in handy for a lot of projects.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Rob, great tip I will have to try it.

[@BrainSlugs83]

I don't think that's the problem in this case. If you buy a strip of LEDs the tape they come with usually isn't even very sticky. Like even to itself it just falls right off. I usually add some E6000 to mine and just paper tape it in place until the glue dries.

[@mzaferyahsi]

I am using a washing machine noise dampening pad and a concrete block under my Prusa i3 MK3S, which increases the height to not to fit into the Lack enclosure. The simple solution I did was to but 5x5x15 wood blocks, drill a hole on one side and connect it with the leg of the Lack to increase the height for 15cm, which gave me engineering room to install my printer. I didn’t have to modify the parts at all and it looks amazing!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@BLBlackDragon]

Very spiff. I've had my DIY Mendel in a Lack V1 enclosure for a couple of years. It makes all the difference in my cold basement, even for PLA and PETG.

[@ChrisRiley]

We know about basements! Thanks for watching

[@stevedegeorge726]

Good stuff! Have some lack tables coming next week. This really helps give me an idea of what to expect. Thanks Chris!

[@ChrisRiley]

Great to hear!

[@deuterium8236]

A clearear Corrogated plastic 4x8 foot sheet ($35) makes a functional heated enclosure even for my big cr10s pro. Packaging tape seals the edges and for giggles I used a $10 Ikea picture frame for the front door. I folded as many of the edges as possible so the top and three sides are a single part. Some excess sheet was used to make a horizontal baffle to insulate the electronics from the heated upper region for the heated bed and print. A tube directs the original electronics exhaust fan air out of the chamber and is replaced by cool room air that slips in under the front edge of the door to replace the exhausted air. With the Bed at 110C the chamber stabilizes 48C measured using the hot end thermistor (extruder heater off and fan on).

[@ChrisRiley]

Very nice, I love enclosure hacks.

[@AndrewAHayes]

It seems like Prusa has designed this to use as much filament as possible! LOL

[@ChrisRiley]

Well, they do like to print things.

[@spedi6721]

You want it to be rigid as well and not snap 3 months later so you have to rebuild the table again.

[@islandtime100]

How much filament does it take?

[@gouichichefarouk2329]

you just made my life easier while starting with 3D printer world , thanks lot

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad to hear that!

[@motoreffpv9073]

Great video Chris! Always looking forward to your next one! Cheers.

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, thank you!

[@zimmy1958]

Oh now you did it. I just ordered all the stuff to do this.

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey Zimmy, it's a fun build for sure.

[@lostinseale]

Great info. Just in time. I am in the middle of my own enclosure build and I needed that Bed Wire Manager.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help!

[@teh_sid]

Cheer Chris. I think if I went this way, I'd move to a direct drive so I could run the filament directly from above. Great video mate!

[@ChrisRiley]

I think that is probably the best way to go. Thanks!

[@dennisvanotterdijk]

Great video! Excellent walkthrough with plenty of explanation... Would love to see such a build for the Ender 3V2...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@LifeHacksbyStacy]

Uh oh! Obviously new and overwhelmed. I just got the ender 3 v2… will it not fit in this enclosure? I got the tables and ordered the plexi etc but haven’t gotten my machine out yet. Just gathering everything to start my journey.

[@dennisvanotterdijk]

@@LifeHacksbyStacy The power supply of the Ender 3V2 is mounted differently than that of the Ender 3. You can probably get it to work with this enclosure but it is a little more difficult to do.

[@StuerPatrick]

Hi Chris nice video. you mentioned for the leg where the hole for the power cable is, that if you put the power supply outside you can rework that part. but i'd like to point out that the other part on the back (the right one?) is exactly what you need. so what i did was print that part again to replace the one with the hole in it.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice, good tip.

[@GooberGuz]

Dude great detail - nice job !!! Thanks for doing this !!! Happy Holidays

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, you too!

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Nice work Chris! Really good video man!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Stephen!

[@christopherusify]

Thank you! Best Video on youtube for Build this Enclosure!! Great work!!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it!

[@NerdvanaCustomCreations]

Great build! I’m working on one now with some similar brackets. Great content and thanks for the video!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, thanks for watching.

[@willlombard6561]

Great video! I am having trouble figuring out which files need to be printed from the Prusa make, and which ones are replaced with yours. Any guidance?

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! These are the only ones that are different from the Prusa project. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

[@boyx01sdad]

I absolutely love your channel. every one of your vid's are interesting and relevant to me. great job

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad you like them! Thanks for watching

[@zimmy1958]

Thank you Chris. And Happy New Year.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching Zimmy, Happy New Year!

[@neithanagarwaen5071]

Good video, some camera angles could have been better, but overall the camera angles in this were excellent and much appreciated as some seemed hard to get. Appreciate the clear steps and chapters.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you

[@spedi6721]

Nice job. Looking forward to see it in action. I saw your "you are fired" in the background, Hehehe. Nice detail. Was it part of an episode? Maybe you should also print the fax machine the used in the movie. Cheers

[@ChrisRiley]

lol, that's not a bad idea, I should try to design one. No, it hasn't been in a video yet, more of an Easter egg.

[@forestbirdoriginals4917]

Bro I was just looking for this video this last week to help me with my CR6-SE

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help, thanks for watching!

[@kcpth]

Wow... awesome build. Now makes me want to build one for my CR-10 mini

[@ChrisRiley]

Go for it!

[@shaunmorrissey7313]

Thanks Chris, love that blue filament

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, me too

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, it's a great color.

[@avejst]

Wow, great walkthrough and totorial 👍😊 Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊 Happy new year to you and your family 🎇💕

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you. Happy new year!

[@hartk5353]

Hey Chris, have you ever thought of building a Voron V0 or V2? i think it would make an awesome video series

[@ChrisRiley]

Absolutely, going to build a V0 very soon.

[@mironfs1]

@@ChrisRiley please chris no, i cant talk myself out of buying V0 for like third time

[@bkahlerventer]

Just remember to run an earth-wire from the PSU side back up to the printer frame. Nice video.

[@ChrisRiley]

Good tip!

[@jony9259]

How can we do that? Just a wire from the frame to the psu case?

[@karipenttila2655]

The issue when printing abs with ender is that hotend fan cools the part too. When you put a piece of thin aluminum plate underneath it will guide the air off the part. And voila there will be success with abs! Please try and test and make video for others to succeed too!

[@ChrisRiley]

Check this out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGLQp2uvi9eGZrM The PETG actually work decent for this part.

[@patrickbodine1300]

Excellent information. Expertly executed. Thank you sir!😀👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rowlandstraylight]

FYI M6 is a machine screw thread sized to a 6mm clearance hole. Similarly other M-sized threads are defined in ISO262. Occasionally you encounter the fine pitch of a thread definition, but it's rare enough that it's checked for being UNF or even Whitworth (in the UK at leasr) first. A wood screw might be 6x30mm for example but it's not M6. Of course to confuse matters the UK likes to sell wood screws by imperial gauge number and metric length. Edited because something got garbled on my phone.

[@ChrisRiley]

This is great info, I have never used metric wood screws.

[@rowlandstraylight]

@@ChrisRiley the first half of what I said was somehow turned to nonsense, edited some, and added some context, but you probably guessed the important parts.

[@squirrelrobotics]

Wow, notifications finally came on time for once!

[@ChrisRiley]

And you were first!

[@benjaminnevins5211]

didn't for me :(

[@plazmax]

Hello Chris i think heat bad cable with ur printed part for goes down it ll be adds more stress to cable ,which drains much current while heating, need more effective solution. But content is very good as always ty

[@ChrisRiley]

I will keep an eye on it, it doesn't have a hard crimp in it, but you could be right.

[@gumbykevbo]

for plugging the cable tunnel in the back-lower-left corner block, you can just set up your overhang support so that it ends up nearly plugged by the supports...not airtight, but neither are the doors or panels, so good enough for me. I cant take credit...Cura just did it for me!

[@ChrisRiley]

Cool, thanks!

[@Thomllama]

seemed it was kinda "lacking" LOLOLOLOL sorry, couldn't help it! awesome as always Chris! (PS missing the little jokes/goofy texty things in the beginning, they were fun. ;) )

[@ChrisRiley]

I ran out of ideas, I'll try harder to think of some more. ;)

[@Thomllama]

@@ChrisRiley just hit up Bryan, he's got them pouring outa him all the time. :)

[@Tyrazik]

200+ hours for panels and blocks? that seems a lil extensive.

[@ChrisRiley]

Eh, it's an excuse to print things at least.

[@scottwarrick]

Maybe could start printing the parts while waiting on the deliveries from IKEA and AliExpress... the parts are probably printed before the magnets arrive...

[@Tyrazik]

I got it built already haha. I just bought actual hardware and hinges and tools. They’re solid 👌

[@powersv2]

i bought the acrylic/plexiglass off amazon 3 weeks ago and am 1 week into printing when I found the video :P. It takes forever to print all this stuff.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah it does! Thanks for watching

[@socalob]

I wish we could upload pics. I have a couple pieces that I printed for this enclosure that have seemed to fuse together. I did upload the 3mf file to convert to stl so I dont know if that caused the issue but but definitely something to look at if your slicer doesn't handle 3mf files. Gonna update to the new cura 5.x and try again as it now handles 3mf files I think.

[@jackbui2944]

You need to remove the supports in the prusa slicer. There are blocks that are supports in prusa slicer, but just solid blocks in other slicers like cura. You just need to install prusa slicer, delete the supports, save the file, and then open it in cura and add your own supports to the same areas.

[@socalob]

@@jackbui2944 right on and thank you! I did download cura 5 and it's able to read the 3mf file now so I was able to move the pieces around so they don't print as one lol. I was wondering about the blocks tho so thank you again. I will put them into prusa slicer like you said.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the help here @jack bui

[@subseauk]

Awesome video Chris, highly informative, great quality on your prints, What filament are you using PLA, PETG ? Keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

All the blue is PLA, the only piece I used PETG on was the bed cable holder.

[@subseauk]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I am trying to print the parts now but when I open the STL files in Cura 4.8 they appear of the bed and poking through the bottom!!! Any ideas on what I am doing wrong? Cheers

[@joshd4821]

Hey Chris, Are you going to be making a part five on the New Ender 3 User series?? Your videos have helped me out a lot. Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure yet, I might, I have found a few more things we should tackle.

[@joshd4821]

@@ChrisRiley Ok thanks can’t wait. Keep up the great work!

[@Billimus68]

Hi Chris, I want to start off by saying thank you for all your efforts. I appreciate you. I have my enclosure done. I got the plexi from Printed solid and they are super nice. The only things I am stuck on is how to feed the filament. I know you said you were still working that out. And I should mention that I put my CR-6se inside there and not an Ender 3. But they are almost the same size so I went for it. Have you come up with anything that works well for feeding the filament (into the enclosure, spool location, etc)?

[@ChrisRiley]

The side feed seems to work okay for my ender 3. I have seen some designs where they have a slot in the top that looks promising. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7115-lack-enclosure-filament-slot-guide#preview

[@mattwilliams1781]

thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching!

[@VenonBs2]

great video! Just one question... it's ok to leave the LCD and motherboard inside

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, yes, those part should be good up to 60c.

[@randigtschackspel]

Great video as always! Just a question, where can I find the file for the angled bed cable guide? Can’t find it in the description

[@ChrisRiley]

It's in here. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

[@gaidkey1128]

i have to say it would have been nice if you linked ALL of the screws needed in the build.i ordered what you had in the descriptions but it didnt have any links for the m3 screws so i didnt order them with everything else like i could have.

[@ChrisRiley]

Sorry about that, I can see what I can do to update it.

[@prob17]

Can you please post a pic showing the whole setup so I can a better idea of size etc

[@ChrisRiley]

Here you go. photos.app.goo.gl/E7zNyQhMwyYkzLt89 It is 150cm tall and 55cm wide and deep.

[@delline1728]

Chris great videos. I like the way you break things down and go into detail. I'm building an enclosure for my ender3. Do you know of anywhere I can get the STL files for the parts? The ones on prusa site are for petg profile and cuts won't let me change it. I'm looking for a pla profile. Any help is appreciated

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, you should be able to use the 3MF files below to change the properties and print them with PLA. Check on the files tab. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3673-prusa-enclosure-v2-mmu2s/files

[@idmnstr]

I just found you video. Thank you for going this video. Will this enclosure work for a Voxelab Aguila S1 with the changes you made for the Ender 3?

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I'm not sure, I don't own that machine, but I'm sure you can find the dimensions to compare them.

[@TheNeonmoose]

Hey Chris, nice video. After looking at a few different designs, I like this one. Your instructions help. I do have one question though. I grabbed the print files from the links you provided. When I open them, they are GCode rather than the STLs I'm used to seeing. Did I get/grab the wrong files or is that the way they are posted?

[@Alex-qg9mj]

When they are in gcode you can put them in the printer and start. STL gets transformed into gcode

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@TheNeonmoose]

@@Alex-qg9mj correct. However, it is from the stl that I am able to make my printing configuration settings and then create the Gcode. Using a pre-created code bypasses my ability to input printer unique settings.

[@leptoon]

Two questions. One, why did you use a kit? Seems like you didn't need those holes on the back panel, custom cut acrylic panels wouldn't have them and they'd probably be cheaper than a kit. Two, what is the point of the hinged top lid? Seems like a lot of extra work for something that isn't really necessary.

[@ChrisRiley]

One, printed solid has taken the guesswork out of ordering the right size panels. Worth the extra money for most users. Two, if you ever used the V1 enclosure and had to remove the printer to work on it, V2 is so much easier to use.

[@rm_commando5067]

Quick question, did you need cable extensions for the PSU? If so could you please link them (preferably UK links) thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

I made one from 14g wire and another XT60 connector. www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Upgrade-Female-Bullet-Connectors/dp/B07Q2SJSZ1/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1DH9P0KIXR8CM&keywords=xt60+connector&qid=1679442415&sprefix=xt60+connector%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-5

[@3Dgifts]

Hi Chris, love your work and your channel! I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro. I want to build an enclosure with ventilation, some sensors, lights, etc. Any recommendations? This is a good starting point, but I think there is some modifications that need to be done. Thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! The lack enclosures are okay, but if you want to do a lot of moding I would look at some other options. I know they are pricey, but printedsolid makes some really nice ones.

[@3Dgifts]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you, I will have a look. I was also thinking about buying the extruded aluminum and just build it from scratch. You know, for a fun project. PS: I’m new to printing and got an Ender 3 S1 Pro. Do you recommend making any changes or upgrades to it like fans and such? Appreciate all you do!

[@jong882]

@@3Dgifts Hey! I have an S1 Pro, I would upgrade the partcooling and hotend fans. Makes it 10x quieter and more efficient. Also for the enclosure, you'll need to find a heated bed wire angle part. You'll probably need to solder it yourself because of the design

[@3Dgifts]

@@jong882 Thank you. Would you happen to have some links handy to parts you recommend? Also, for the bed, I'm not sure i understand. I was just going to move the motherboard and display out, or is that what you are referring to needing extensions?

[@hutche8297]

Awesome video. Do you have the heat bed cable holder available for download?

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, it's in here. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3

[@LifeHacksbyStacy]

Love this video! I have a question for you… how many rolls of the Jessie would I need to make all the parts? I still have my printer in the box 😂 I plan on opening and playing with it while I wait for the plexi and Jessie. I ordered the magenta 3 rolls…. I hope that’s enough…? Thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

I think you can get it done with one full roll, baring mistakes. Be aware that I didn't explain the print volume of this very well. These parts are designed for a Prusa, so I printed them on a Prusa, the ender 3 is not big enough for some of the parts. They would have to be cut up to work.

[@LifeHacksbyStacy]

@@ChrisRiley “cut up” 👀 😬 😱 what does that mean? Probably such a loaded question. I need some hand holding and a pause button on all videos. 😜 self learning here.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@LifeHacksbyStacy I am not sure about all slicers, but I use Prusa slicer. You can load the plate of parts and then hit cut. Then delete the ones that won't fit and print them in sperate batches. I think most slicers can do this same thing now a days.

[@LifeHacksbyStacy]

@@ChrisRiley thank you! I got my v2 plexi in. It is the newer model of plexi and says 3mm thick. I don’t know what the thickness of the original plexi is. Confused as to using the 3.175 parts to print or the original in your blog. Can you clarify for me? Thanks so much! Hopefully I will get this. I can’t wait to feel so accomplished after doing this!

[@redmonkey1989]

Hey Chris, great video as always! I am planning to mount a raspicam inside the enclosure in the front-left leg. Do you think the orientation you used for the led strips is ok or it will reflect towards the cam? Shall I mount them slightly angled to avoid the light reflecting on the bed/cam?

[@ChrisRiley]

That's a good idea. I just kind of play with it and see what works. Thanks

[@kristenleach5437]

Did you print these parts on the Ender 3? I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro, but some of the parts are too big to print, even diagonally. Not sure if there is a different way to approach those parts.

[@kristenleach5437]

Using Cura - which apparently is part of the problem? I am going to try switching to Prusa Slicer and see if it makes a difference; but if anyone else has run into this I'd love to hear about it

[@ChrisRiley]

I printed all this on a Prusa MK3, that's the printer most of the parts were designed for. Yes, the 3MF files are treated differently in CURA, hopefully PS helped.

[@Aikano9]

Cut out a hole on the top table to increase available height, then you put your Ender 3 on a concrete slab, 400x400mm is perfect, then slap some thick felt feet on the bottom of the slab. This should SIGNIFICANTLY reduce the resonance and loudness of the printer

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you

[@Hoooo33]

I am a bit disappointed that you didn't show off the final product.

[@ChrisRiley]

Noted.

[@scottwarrick]

As always a great video. The one downside to powering the lights from the 24v PSU is that the printer has to be powered on for the lights to work. I believe in your V1 video you used external. I wonder how often one would need those lights on troubleshooting with the power on printer turned off? Any thoughts on the pros/cons of either solution?

[@ChrisRiley]

For this design with the flip up top I thought maybe it would be easier to work with the lights off, so I went this route.

[@scottwarrick]

That makes sense... I forgot about the flip up top. This is great video they makes me more comfortable building an enclosure.

[@scottknauert8573]

What settings did you use? I printed my LACK v1 with 2 perimeters and 15% infill (Prusa defaults) in PETG and was quite annoyed by how often parts, usually, the v1 hinges managed to break. The magnets are also clever, but I opted for a round magnet variant since I already had some. It seems hard to find the ones Prusa uses in the US unless one orders from China and waits.

[@ChrisRiley]

I used Prusa defaults, 2 perimeters, 5 tops, 4 bottoms, 20% cubic infill. I did use PLA, and haven't had anything break. On the thin wall prints I think PETG might be a bit difficult to use.

[@gumbykevbo]

Maybe it's because I'm a newb to 3D printing, but I can't figure out this problem: Background: I am attempting to print the parts for this on my ender 3. The Prusa site has G-code files, presumably for a Prusa printer, and also .3DM files. I'm trying to use the .3DM files, because I have been warned about G-code files not sliced for the extant printer. As a newb I had been using the creality slicer, but needing to use the .3DM files (creality slicer can't deal) caused me to upgrade to Cura. Simple learning curve since creality slicer is based on obsolete version of Cura. The Problem: The .3DM files have large solid cubes where the supports are in the G-code files....In some cases extending below the print surface, and well above the part surface that needs support. This makes the .3DM files unusable. I presume that these were used to indicate in Rhino where support is needed, and somebody forgot to turn off the "reserve for support" layer before exporting the .3DM models. These are even clearly visible in the .3DM viewer on the Prusa page for this project. Can anyone suggest how I could resolve this issue without having to re-CAD all the corrupted parts? I guess I'll try commenting on the Prusa site, but feel wierd about it, not being a Prusa customer.

[@gumbykevbo]

well, it turns out that the prusa site has a .step file I can open with Fusion 360, and export STI files from there. I think I will also mod the hinges to use some magnets I already have.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad you figured it out.

[@gumbykevbo]

@@ChrisRiley Editing the step file turned out to be a major pain. I finally got a reply on the Prusa project site that the .3MF files work only with Prusa slicer. It turns out that Prusa slicer is free and will slice for an Ender 3 (and lots of other non-Prusa printers) with minimal adjustment...so with only a little fussing about, I now have the first batch of parts printing. It seems like you have to use the Expert mode to get the support enforcement to work right.

[@AJ-jj9fc]

Great vid. Is no one building enclosures to filter the air when printing ABS or Nylon? I understand the idea of the enclosure is to capture and retain heat but what about the smell / VOC / small particles essentially off-gased from printing?

[@keichide]

There is an HEPA 2 + Carbon Filter Design on Thingiverse for the Lack Tables, according to the community thats more than enough

[@ChrisRiley]

There are some filters out there. BOFA systems are coming down in price as well. www.printedsolid.com/products/bofa-3d-print-pro-1-fume-extraction

[@joachimdeussen]

How much for all the additional parts? Past-pendemc the 2x2 Lack table cost 10€ (was 6€ pre-pandemic). The 1x1 is 6€, the 2x4 ist 20€ (was 9€) now.

[@ChrisRiley]

They are a lot higher now for sure. I haven't looked for a while, so I don't have an estimate.

[@madorax251]

hi chris can you share the printer part brace aluminum extrusion file like the one you used on ender 3?

[@ChrisRiley]

Ah, now I see what you are talking about. It's in here. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

[@BrainSlugs83]

Ikea hacking is fun to watch, so this was like crack for me today, thanks for fixing me up. One thing that's not clear though is @39:28 -- your back acrylic already had holes drilled right? Why not just install that acrylic on the side instead of drilling new holes on the side acrylic?

[@ChrisRiley]

I thought about that, but they were a little too high and center for my liking. It would probably work, but I went the other way.

[@rmacfarland1]

I would love one that would fit a CR10-v3.

[@ChrisRiley]

That would be a big boy. :)

[@jamessipich7349]

If anyone is wondering, I was able to use 20x5x2 magnets (amazon) instead of waiting on the alie ones

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@ryangill9518]

How hot were you able to get the enclosure using just the bed as a heater? I've been having some success using a grow tent ;)

[@ChrisRiley]

I can get to about 32c in one of these. Grow tents/photo tents work awesome.

[@gabrielcorrales8878]

Is it okay if it shakes so much? Do all Lack Table enclosures shake like that? I was thinking on building one but i think I will go for the creality enclosure

[@ChrisRiley]

I've been using my MK2 in one for years and it does move a bit, but has never caused a problem.

[@Carlos-yk5mx]

Hi! If i want an extraction on the encloser, di you recomend 2 fan (one in and one out) or just one fan out to keep the temperature hot inside the enclosure?

[@ChrisRiley]

Maybe just one out, then maybe try to route the warm air back in.

[@christeague9040]

Hi! I am new to 3D printing, like a week in haha. Liked the video, but had a question. Were all of these pieces printed on the Ender 3? Looking at the files, some of them as-is, do not fit on my bed in Cura. Is this something that I just need to split up and rotate for them to fit? Or am I just doing something wrong? Anyways, thanks for the help! :)

[@ChrisRiley]

These parts were all intended to be printed on a Prusa bed. You could cut and glue some of them, but I am sure there are many great enclosure projects you can do on thingiverse to get you around this issue.

[@PeterNauta60]

@@ChrisRiley I printed everything on an Ender 3 v2 by breaking up the files into separate pieces, and rotating the pieces 45 degrees. No need to cut any part so far.

[@Shooter_FPV]

So wait... You modded the corner pieces to get more height?? What size acrylic did you use, the 440x473 like in the original V2 build?

[@ChrisRiley]

The V2 build have the correct corners you need, but you need taller acrylic. Or use the Prusa vent pieces to make up for it. www.printedsolid.com/products/v2-acrylic-sheets-for-prusa-lack-enclosure 3 sheets cut to 440mm x 473mm and 2 sheets cut to 220mm x 505mm

[@Shooter_FPV]

@@ChrisRiley I haven’t ordered the acrylic yet, but now that it’s confirmed, I’ll order the bigger sizes. Thanks!!!!!

[@Pm7MightExist]

I'm having trouble trying to figure out what parts to print from the prusa enclosure files, and what parts to print from your files. I am getting the plexiglass from the link you put in the description so I know I won't need to print the extender things, but I also can't find files 2.3, 6.3, 7.3, 9.3, or 10.3 from the prusa files anywhere the printed parts section of the video, so i'm not sure if those are used

[@ChrisRiley]

From the PRusa Files, you will need 1,3,4,5,6,7 of you use plexi from PS. On my files the PSU holder is really the only one needed, the rest are optional .

[@Pm7MightExist]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you! I can barely wait to start building this enclosure

[@Justkyrios]

Hey Chris, do you happen to remember about how much filament you used throughout this project? Was a single 1kg spool enough for all the parts?

[@ChrisRiley]

The version I show here I think you can get it done in less than a KG.

[@MikeysLab]

Freedom units lol, AKA the drunk lobster system :)

[@ChrisRiley]

lol

[@N888FT]

Hey Chris! Thanks for this excellent video. I know this is not your design, but wanted to ask anyway. I would love to make the bottom supports longer to get a little taller enclosure. Is it possible that I could increase the height of the bottom supports to match the height of the top supports by using the modeling files?

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, you should be able to bring them into CAD software and change them up.

[@Deathrend8481]

Any issues with the PLA holding up? I get better quality out of PLA, so I'm trying to decide what to make it with.

[@ChrisRiley]

I haven't has any issues with the PLA so far.

[@Schliziger]

Did you screw directly into the printed parts? Or are there nuts on the other side? becouse the is no winding in the plastic, is it?

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure which parts you are talking about, but I don't like to let the plastic hold a screw without a nut integrated somehow.

[@Schliziger]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you for your answer. I mean the Part at 18:40, when you screw the M3 x 30mm for the Lid. It looks like it is screwed directly into the plastic, and I wonder if that is tight enough, becouse I thought there should be a Nut or something at the other end.

[@customaviationmodelling8423]

Hey dude... do you have a link for the stl files for the parts to print for this project. Love your creation. 👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Should be all in the description. Thanks man!

[@solidusseal]

To bad the door do not have a 'door-stop' or even 'door-knobs' But overall it looks very nice and I like the top part wich you can open .

[@ChrisRiley]

You could put some v1 handles on them if you wanted.

[@fsecofficial]

The reason you want an enclosure is to save your marriage. Use egg crate foam or garage door insulation to dampen the resonance. An anti fatigue mat can also line the floor.

[@ChrisRiley]

Ha! Thanks for the tip!

[@BRxRanger]

As the printer was earthed to the PSU through the screws, you may want to run an earth wire from the PSU to the printer frame

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the tip!

[@robdfar]

Great Vid i want to make one but how would you do the psu on the ender 3 v2 now that it is in the printer??

[@ChrisRiley]

I think you can, there is probably a mount out there for it. You just need to skinny up the one I used.

[@pro_montajnik]

Доброго вечера. Конструкция интересная. Остается вопрос с жесткостью и упругостью. Не будет ли корпус гулять во время работы принтера?

[@ChrisRiley]

Он действительно сдвигается, но я использовал один из них в течение многих лет без проблем.

[@pro_montajnik]

@@ChrisRiley Понял, Спасибо )

[@BeefIngot]

I wonder if a couple of concrete slab on foam like cnc kitchen uses would help on sound

[@ChrisRiley]

I am sure it would, I wish I could find some smaller ones.

[@JJFX-]

Do you think using PLA or having PLA mods on the printer could eventually have issues with warping if frequently running 80-100C bed temps?

[@ChrisRiley]

Not with bed temps, it should be okay.

[@JJFX-]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks, that certainly makes life easier... I've been having a hell of a time printing all pieces in PETG.

[@joshuawilliams3525]

Great video! I do have a question though, I am trying to print these parts on an E3P, that said, do I need to print these parts with the supports? I removed to supports in prusaslicer first, then opened them in cura. I just want to save some time and filament where I can and thought that it was worth an ask. I am pretty new to printing and I'm not sure how to limit the amount of supports like they have them set in prusaslicer.

[@ChrisRiley]

It's best to go with the Prusa Slicer recommendation.

[@marcelhofstra7859]

Like the video, keep up the good work

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the visit

[@normanpeat9499]

This is great! Thank you for the modified parts list. However, some of the parts, such as the prop rod, are to long for my print bed, and I cannot adjust them in Cura, or Prusa. Would it be possible to post a file for the prop rod that fits on the Ender 3 V2 print bed?

[@ChrisRiley]

I'll see what I can do

[@normanpeat9499]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris! There are several parts that I just do not have the skills to figure out how allow Cura or Prusa slicer to let me adjust the prints so they fit. I would greatly appreciate anything you may be able to do.

[@Kerflop1]

Working on my lack enclosure soon, what are the best support settings for CURA for these parts?

[@ChrisRiley]

I wish I knew, I am not really all that familiar with CURA.

[@joesegala1856]

Would it work in an 18” depth but much wider cabinet ? Curious on the full front to back operation dimensions on the ender 3

[@ChrisRiley]

With the bed wire the ender 3 is about 23" deep and 18" wide travel.

[@59KYHighlander]

Can't be printed on an Ender 3 V2. parts in file number 5 won't fit on the print bed.

[@ChrisRiley]

I should have been clearer on that, all these were designed for the Prusa.

[@GohanSama]

How hot does it get inside and is it not a problem that you left the board and the display in?

[@ChrisRiley]

It will get to about 32c, no problems with the board or LCD at that temp.

[@BioshadowX]

Wait so what is the point of your corner pieces? Looks like they just add more height to the table below the surface that holds the printer which doesn't look like it is needed or used in this build.

[@ChrisRiley]

I used them to hold the legs in place versus an L bracket or something like that.