Prusament PC Blend - The strongest material I tested!

[@CNCKitchen]

Polycarbonate?! Is there a need for these technical materials in 3D printing? Don't forget to like & subscribe and share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter, and other platforms!

[@AwesomeMau5Heads]

It's mixed with pbt per their MSDS.

[@AwesomeMau5Heads]

Also push plastics sells it in America for 50$ a kilo. Goes down to 30$ a kilo of bought in bulk.

[@AwesomeMau5Heads]

I also print with it exclusively.

[@theheadone]

Please check out Priline PC-CF. I've been using that stuff for a couple years now (I think it's only available on amazon) I'm a mechanical engineer and I use this stuff for everything (mounts, brackets, etc.) I print this using my prusa mk3 and Railcore using profiles for prusaslicer for atomic CF-PETG. Thank you for your amazing content! It helps to educate me and allows me to help make proper decisions for my engineering models!

[@joshsekel]

So would you consider using this for Voron parts given the strength and heat properties? I wonder how PC creeps? That would make a great test series, the creep characteristics of different materials. Also how common lubricants effect strength over time. We really need you to become a full time you tuber so you can answer all the questions!

[@Bajotaz]

"Not everyone needs a 1kg spool" ... Me looking for 10kg spools...

[@zakariakhamees]

10 kg! Are you printing a house or what? 🤣

[@ogxoutcast69]

@@zakariakhamees 1kg with a .8 nozzle is like nothing

[@zakariakhamees]

@@ogxoutcast69 That makes sense 👍🏻

[@thor_269]

I'm over here ordering multiple 2kg spools of PETG, because I just print so much

[@nukularpictures]

@@zakariakhamees I mean if you do a lot of technical stuff why not? Some projects of mine require several kg of plastic and with a E3D SuperVulcano it is not a problem. With a 1mm nozzle I get over 50mm^3 / s of material flow and over 70mm^3/s with 1.2mm. So given the denstiy of plastics is usually between 1.2g/cm^3 - 1.4g/cm^3 I run between 220g/h (50mm^2/s and 1.2g/cm^3) and 350g/h (70mm^2 and 1.4g/cm^3). In theory the SuperVulcano can go over 100mm^3/s but that requires the 1.4mm nozzle and I find that too big. But yeah for technical prints 1kg spools can be a bit of a joke. Just does not last long enough.

[@coltonmccormack8978]

It looks like Prusa just changed the formula on this 3 days ago and it is now less dense. I wonder how much that affects its properties. From Prusa: "Prusament PC Blend has a new formula since 9. 6. 2021 The material density is now slightly lower than before, resulting in a minimal spool weight of 970 g. The approximate length of the filament is 330 m - the same length as the standard Prusament."

[@wervelstroom]

Prusament PC blend in the original formula was the ultimate filament for gears!!! I hope that changing the formula does not make it less good...

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks for the information. Might need to consider re-testing a couple of properties.

[@ajudge8786]

@@CNCKitchen you should also try the new Prusament PCCF (PC Blend+Carbon fiber)

[@gg-gn3re]

so you get jipped 30grams? wow

[@The0nionKnight]

@@wervelstroom Taulman Alloy 910 is the best for gears.

[@forestbirdoriginals4917]

I was always told to increase the temp by 10 degrees for steel nozzles for what that’s worth, I also confirmed my A2 nozzles and Nozzle X benefit from this on all materials

[@stevenmcculloch5727]

Yeah the prints from the steel nozzle are weaker because the extruded plastic is colder. Steel is less conductive so heat transfer into the material is slower.

[@seanwieland9763]

Yes, steel doesn’t retain heat as well as brass.

[@Ebonyqwe]

Interesting, if this is well known then Prusa slicer needs to add in the choice of material for hotend

[@stevenmcculloch5727]

@@Ebonyqwe This could easily lead to confusion if the actual printing temp is set to be different from the one desired.

[@Ebonyqwe]

@@stevenmcculloch5727 im not sure how it could be so confusing.

[@coltonmccormack8978]

I greatly appreciate your focus on exotic engineering filaments and testing procedures. You've been an excellent resource for supplementing my design process for functional parts. Cheers.

[@seanwieland9763]

I hope that polycarbonate blends won’t be considered “exotic” much longer.

[@coltonmccormack8978]

@@seanwieland9763 Agreed. Though I wasn't necessarily talking about this specific filament, but rather his channel in general. I am cautiously optimistic that PC will replace ABS as my "go to" functional filament. I tend to print pretty large prints (machine parts, jigs, robot chassis) and even in my 50C chamber printer I get a bit too much warp for fitment on parts with my current PC. PC-CF is pretty stable, though. Might have to add active heating.

[@kerbodynamicx472]

@@coltonmccormack8978 I want to try PC-CF but it is kinda expensive and requires hardened nozzles. Yeah, I wish polycarbonate should become a common filament along with PLA and PETG. There are some properties of ABS that just suck, its smell and its low tensile strength. PC is far stronger than ABS and should be appreciated more!

[@marsgizmo]

Love the in-depth review! It's remarkable how many hours you put into testing.

[@dharmix]

what happened to the prusament PC CF review?

[@alchemistTi]

I’m guessing 10-15 degrees hotter with a steel nozzle will bring the results inline.

[@INSOMNIAC205]

Jup, very likely. On my first printer i usually had to up them by 5-10°C after installing a SS nozzle. But that's what i would expect to be the crulpit in this case too. But i'm sure Stefan will figure that out way more excessive and in detail in the close future. 🤣

[@DrakeMem]

yup, I was gonna say

[@Lucas_sGarage]

I wonder what would happend with a copper nozzle.... Or if u are rich a gold one

[@namAehT]

In my experiance printing with the E3D Nozzel-X I needed to raise the temps by 10-20 degrees to get good results. Switching to a copper heat block (from the stock aluminium) negated this.

[@infernaldaedra]

Stronger filaments will always be useful for prototyping and functional parts. I'd love to see an engineering materials strength test and comparison. PEEK ,PEKK PEEK blends, PC, Carbon Fiber variants!

[@xxxm981]

Especially stuff like PEEK.... sadly i don´t think he has a high temp Printer you would need for that

[@infernaldaedra]

@@xxxm981 I think slice engineering and volcano make hotends for it but maybe he could have test parts printed by VisionMiner or something because they never seem to do strength tests.

[@Fluffehfox]

@@infernaldaedra i would love it if VisionMiner did standarized test instead of burn crush

[@mophie6941]

Yea but to be fair getting the high temp for PEEK is the least of your problem with this material 😅😅

[@infernaldaedra]

@@mophie6941 Okay but how strong are the parts between the different blends and polymers?

[@pixxure1]

The review of the CF version of this never made it online?

[@coreyfro]

Didn't you have a Prusament Carbon Fiber video? Are you making one? I have some and I want to know if you have any sights I missed. It's working great but I like your insightfulness

[@Nerlin]

For the hardened steel, I thought you need a higher temperature to get the same results.

[@yathani]

Yes, 5 to 10 C above brass.

[@spedi6721]

I use a hardened steel one for carbon filament. Printing my standard filament, I have to raise 5 to 10 degrees and also reduce the speed a little bit to avoid clogging

[@wervelstroom]

For PC Blend 10C higher

[@CNCKitchen]

There are some rumors but I haven't stumbled upon any real data.

[@severdislike4222]

@@CNCKitchen what I am hearing is "I have a new materials testing video for hardened steel nozzles" coming out at some point in time!

[@fluxcapacitor]

08:28 What happened to the "review of the carbon fiber variant of PC Blend" that was coming "pretty soon", since June 2021?

[@ultramegax]

I'm wondering the same thing... I'm searching for it, to no avail.

[@Bioluminous-CAS]

Do you know when you will do this same test with Prusament CF PC Blend?

[@lovecastle7154]

The brass nozzle wore out and so was wider than the steel, this is why adhesion was improved. If you added an extrusion multiplier to the steel nozzle you’d get the same effect

[@SilkyWayFPV]

I would also say due to the worse heat dissipation you should use 5-10 degrees higher temperature. I also found layer adhesion is worse when same print temp is used

[@giovi727]

When is the review for the carbon fiber pc blend coming ;) ?

[@HybridRobotix]

I really like your filament analysis videos! They are very useful in helping me choose filament for specific uses.

[@HunterGeophysicsAustralia]

Hi Stefan, did you end up reviewing the Prusament PCCF? I can't seem to find anything on your channel about it... thanks.

[@JT-Works]

Where is the Prudament PC Carbon Fiber video? You mentioned it was coming soon, 7 months ago. Eitherway, thanks for all you do for the 3D printing community.

[@nezihmertbolgul3605]

In my opinion, strength decrease due to steel nozzle is because of very low thermal conductivity of steels. Brass has about 120 W/mK thermal conductivity while steels has around 15-80 W/mK. I experience the same problem with my ruby nozzle and to solve that, i print slower and hotter then the normal brass nozzle with ruby. This subject could be a video topic for you :) You may want to catch up brass nozzle printed part's strength by slowing down steel nozzle printed parts speed and compare the results.

[@Crazyates11]

I had this same thought the other day. We know that printing hotter can increase strength, but too hot can degrade a filament. What about printing at the higher end of a temp range, but super slow? You want to melt the plastic as thoroughly as possible, but not destroy it.

[@cruduskellies]

I wonder if a tungsten carbide one would preform the same as a hardened steel nozzle.

[@erikhellman3974]

This is the correct answer. For steel nozzles you have to increase temps 5-10 degrees and sometimes print a bit slower (depends on how fast you are already printing). I wish he had increased the temp for these tests

[@haysoos123]

@@cruduskellies tungsten carbide performs almost exactly like brass, which is why I prefer it over hardened steel. It’s more expensive though.

[@cruduskellies]

@@haysoos123 thats good to know! I definitely think I might do that.

[@randomname4726]

You are truly an asset to the 3D Printing community!

[@Clement-0635]

Hi Stefan, in this video you tease a review of the prusament PC blend carbon fiber, is it still planned?

[@mrclown7469]

If the steel nozzle is hurting layer adhesion (presumably) due to lower thermal conductivity compared to brass, I wonder if a nickel plated copper nozzle would do the opposite 🤔

[@Sembazuru]

Intriguing hypothesis. I haven't looked up the thermal resistance values to see how close (or far apart) they are.

[@alexanderdaum8053]

@@Sembazuru Copper is the most thermally conductive material with a thermal conductivity of about 400W/mK. Brass has about 120, but depending on the specific alloy it could be different. For steel it is hard to say, since it really depends on the alloy, but should be more in the range 30-60

[@gunnerpetrea3531]

I have noticed the difference between nozzle types before with clear PETG. Using a nickel plated copper nozzle the print is glossy and semi-transparent, while using a steel nozzle the print has a matte look and is almost white instead of semi-transparent. There is also enough of an impact on layer adhesion that I can feel the difference with my hands on thin walled parts. I think the benefit of using a nozzle with higher thermal conductivity vs. just increasing the temperature is that a nozzle with higher conductivity allows you to print with a larger range of speeds during the same print. If the temperature is increased for a steel nozzle, the filament will start to degrade faster at slower speeds when the thermal conductivity is less of an issue. I am also not 100% sure that temperature is the only factor, since after increasing the temperature with a steel nozzle I looked at the top layer surface using a microscope and compared the steel nozzle to the nickel plated copper nozzle. To me it looked like the part printed with the nickel plated nozzle was much smoother at a small scale. Almost as if the rougher surface finish or higher plastic adhesion properties of the steel nozzle caused the layer surface to be rougher. This could then cause tiny air bubbles to get trapped inside the layers as the next layer is put down, reducing the layer adhesion strength.

[@rohitkrishnan4429]

Dude.. You work so HARD!! WOW. I'm probably a step below beginner at this point and its so encouraging to see the information that you and so many other folks have already put out! Thank you.

[@BitSmythe]

All your analyses are more detailed than I could ever have imagined!

[@FedericoAlbano83]

Thanks for the nice video as usual! I use a tungsten carbide nozzle and to me it was life changing: no thermal issue or difference with brass, but no wear out at all, even after kilos of PA-CF. I see you mostly don t mention tungsten carbide nozzles, but it is a superb addition to my machines

[@malcolmm799]

same, tungsten is the way to go

[@ectaven8864]

Can you make a video about the prusament PC blend Carbon

[@PutTheKettleOnGromit]

Thank you for the video. Great as always. Cheers Mate. I print with PC Blend on my Prusa MK3S eoth the hardened steel nozzle. I had to increase the nozzle temperature by 5 to 10C. I also print within an enclosure as I print large parts and warping is possible without an enclosure.

[@remthompson]

I've heard before that with Nylon drying it prior to printing creates best results for quality, but in the printed state to achieve best results, the printed part should be allowed to reabsorb moisture prior to use. Is it possible there is a similar property with PC?

[@BRUXXUS]

Maybe? Although, this stuff seems to have been designed not to absorb much. Worth thinking about, for sure!

[@steffenb3306]

PC will not improve its properties after printing by absorbing moisture. Nylon indeed does not improve uts properties. It just loses stiffness and therefore is less brittle. Which may or may not be an advantage, depending on your application.

[@csdstudio78]

Been printing with pc blend for over a year, it sits out in my basement with no moisture issues. I love this stuff.

[@CNCKitchen]

Water is acting as a plasticiser in Polyamides, so it makes them tougher. Afaik this is NOT the case with PC and also the overall moisture uptake is way smaller.

[@steffenb3306]

@@CNCKitchen Hey Stefan, ich hätte die Möglichkeit zu messen welches Material bei Prusa eingeblendet wird, habe aber kein Filament ;-)

[@SodalisUK]

Stefan's scientific approach is extremely valuable - and so far at least apparently unique. Those is the "go to" channel for genuinely science-based reviews.

[@RCGrid]

Have you ever tried testing 3DXTech brand filament? They’re supposed to have some of the best mechanical properties for each type of filament they offer, along with the benefit of being easy to print

[@theshiznojudge]

This is why I use tungsten nozzles. Better thermal conductivity than brass (170w/mk vs 110) and it's naturally a hard material. I haven't done any strength tests of nozzle material and temp. Would be interesting to see the showdown.

[@henricoderre]

The perfect winding is what I noticed when you showed the spool of black PC filament. I thought you rewinded it that way. WOW. Compared to other filament makers this is really neat.

[@jaakkopontinen]

Stefan, you're the genuine article 👍 Keep it up and greetings from Finland.

[@BladeWalker91]

So what I'm hearing is that we need a comprehensive guide on different types of nozzle materials and types, from simple brass and steel, to fancy stuff, like brass with sapphire tip, or nickel plated copper. Looking forward to it

[@alexc_88-o9f]

I would LOVE to see a video with some comparisons of print strengths with different nozzle types. It surely makes sense that it would produce different results as the different materials nozzles would be made of have different specific heat values, and would probably transfer heat to the plastic in different ways.

[@davidg5898]

I'd love to see a comparison of nozzles made of different materials. I never really gave it any thought before, but you're absolutely right that different metals' thermal properties would affect the result.

[@properprinting]

Interesting video! I had similar issues with hardened nozzles. Even standard Nylon became brittle and weak. Therefore I use Microswiss's plated nozzles mostly or DyzeDesign's tungsten nozzles. The latter don't fit a regular hotend though. I haven't tried the ruby nozzle yet which might be interesting to put to the test.

[@zakariakhamees]

Its definitely the thermal properties of the nozzle that affects layer adhesion. From your test, the brass nozzle almost got double the performance of the steel one for layer adhesion. This makes sense because the thermal conductivity of brass is about 110 W/mK compared to steel at 52 W/mK. Layer adhesion would even be way better if you used a copper nozzle because it's more conductive at 385 W/mK. I think you should make a video comparing few nozzle materials and see the results 👍🏻

[@JATMN]

Very interesting results.. Think this is the first PC that I have seen that actually stands up to moisture. Will be keeping this material in mind for future projects.

[@Adam-ee9lm]

What happened to the promise of reviewing the carbon fiber version ? I'd like to see that review.

[@matkilla454]

You should get a tungsten carbide nozzle, it has a similar thermal conductivity to brass but is harder and more abrasion resistant than any steel.

[@Sembazuru]

Prusa claims that their PC Blend can be annealed for better temperature resistance. It would be interesting to see how the other physical properties are affected by annealing and how annealed PC Blend compares to annealed PLA in the thermal test.

[@liamthepyro]

I think he made a video about annealing PLA in an oven a while back

[@Dramaican88]

For the nozzle material observation it has been observed in the past and mostly attributed to thermal conductivity. I think it is a combination of thermal conductivity, thermal capacity of the nozzle material and internal surface finish. The process of hardening the steel after machining I think affects the internal surface finish. Less smooth finish internally for the nozzle usually means less fully melted material. You can easily get matt finish PLA prints with a hardened steel nozzle because of this. This is also why I think nickel plated copper nozzles are the best type of nozzles for engineering materials that are not abrassive. It would be interesting if you compared E3D nozzles brass, nickel plated copper, hardened steel, nozzleX and slice engineering vanadium nozzles. Also looking forward to the PC CF Prusament results.

[@GoBayside]

Looking forward to the carbon version - unless it devours ends.

[@SagesFury]

Get a hardened steel end. They dont cost much and work fine.

[@brandonsmoot4056]

Most polymers don't bond to carbon fiber unless you get nano silica. It might make it weaker. Plus most carbon fiber filament is sketchy short fibers not medium to long continuous strands which would be stronger.

[@seanwieland9763]

@@brandonsmoot4056 yeah, I’m not convinced the benefits of CF outweigh the cost or the wear and tear. Other polymer blends like PC-PBT look more promising, but I haven’t done a formal test like this.

[@ivandrago4247]

Carbon is complete nonsense. We need glass filling.

[@Marci124]

I never realized how high PLA rates across the board in total. It's not very often that the "most basic" option is also among the best in most respects.

[@limitlessbuilds]

Any idea when the carbon version tests will come out?

[@fwiffo]

Are you interested in testing the affect of color on print quality and strength? I've always been skeptical, but everyone says that white ABS or ASA is bad because it requires a lot of pigment. I also wonder how much it varies between materials; I have a roll of white PETG which prints better than clear, but maybe PETG benefits because it becomes less excessively sticky.

[@rynnjacobs8601]

You said you printed on a original Prusa MK3S with 275 ℃. Isn’t the original hotend one with a PTFE-liner? For PTFE 275 ℃ seems way too much.

[@backgammonbacon]

What happened to the PC Blend Carbon Fibre review?

[@tituscassiusseverus6303]

Interesting about nozzles, stay away from proprietary hotends where can't change nozzles, unless you keep a set for each type of filament.

[@digibluh]

definitely thermal, most people know that steel nozzles need a temperature bump over copper.

[@tituscassiusseverus6303]

@@digibluh thermal a big issue with different materials for the nozzle, but also if the filament path is worn so that some areas of the nozzle aren't in contact with the filament then that could be a cause for even less heat transference (air is a relatively good insulator). My point was mainly aimed at 'Prosumer' level printers were the manufacturer refuses to sell cheaper components like nozzles as consumables, but expects the owner to buy a complete hotend, for about ten times the price. Apparently we don't have the skills required to hot change a nozzle, but are able to swap out any other components as long as we buy proprietary. It's also unnecessarily wastefull replacing all those components, for a bit of steel, brass or copper.

[@worldoflard]

Thanks for that review Stefan - I've been wondering when you would get around to it! I've made some fairly large prints using Prusament PC Blend, and found that even if I use a good covering of the glue stick, the part's tendency to warp is strong enough to actually curl the magnetic sheet up away from the build plate. I solved this problem by using bulldog clips - placing one at the very rear centre of the plate, and one each side at the very front - all places where it won't foul the Z-axis motors. I wait until the Z-axis has reached about 5mm before pausing the print and adding these clips (also removing the clip handles). This has given me some success with a part which is a triangular axle mount for a garden cart, about 190mm per side. It's amazing how strong this material is, and I have the carbon fibre variant on backorder as well!

[@axeldios9036]

Keep up the good work, as usual good testing, and through information

[@lukesmith9059]

Love these videos! On the topic of layer adhesion, have you tried testing samples printed in a heated chamber? Especially with these higher temperature materials, I would expect the layer adhesion to improve substantially.

[@squidcaps4308]

110% agree with engineering materials to be offered in 500g spools. It would make it affordable as the most common way to use them, i think, is to print PLA part first, iterate the design using cheap materials and then print it once with the proper one.

[@francootaola9172]

Prusament PA cf review?

[@brisance]

I've got a roll of this and it likes to warp, even in an enclosure.

[@shenqiangshou]

I definitely encountered the same difference when going from brass to hardened steel nozzles. In my own testing, I had to up the temperature 20C in order to get similar results. For example, normally I print PLA at 205C, but switching to HS nozzle, I'd up it to around 225C. When I first encountered this I was very surprised. I ended up making up two identical hotends that I could quickly swap between on my MK3S in order to do back to back tests, same gcode, just different nozzle. And yeah, that's when I isolated it down to the HS nozzle being the cause of the poor layer adhesion.

[@internettoughguy]

Brass and hardened steel conduct heat differently. That's why.

[@3DMusketeers]

Great comparison between brass and hardened steel. because steel does not conduct heat as well, this is expected. It is also why we run the hardened nozzles at least 10C above their brass counterparts!

[@ronricardo1332]

Hi Stefan, Thanks a lot for the informative video. I would like to suggest making a competitive video of creep resistance of different materials, as this is a very fundamental property for some applications. Keep up the good work, and thank you again.

[@crystaldragon141]

I'd love to see a series testing different nozzle materials. I'd also like to see a comparison of volcano style vs normal length nozzles with the same heater and orifice specs.

[@alexlux147]

i'm curious about nickel plated copper nozzle, it should have more heat capacity and better heat transfer

[@robertfousch2703]

Just found this channel a few days ago...its awesome. I would love to see a discussion on 3D printing molds for vacuum forming, the pro/cons of various materials and how well they hold up after multiple pulls, deformation, materials with good porosity, thermal impacts from the heated plastic sheets of HIPS, PETG, and ABS.

[@falki]

Still waiting for the PC Blend CF Test ....

[@le_potate3861]

Been waiting for this for a long time

[@mnkrck]

Thanks for the review Stefan! I am looking for a filament to make a drum shell... The shell would be printed solid. Optimally the material should be quite stiff/ brittle for resonance and sanding/milling of the bearing edges. Do you think PC Blend would be a good choice? 🤔

[@andreaudio]

I do a lot of prints with PLA and PETG with carbon fiber. They provide great strength and superb print quality. Sometimes they don’t even look like 3d prints. I’ve tried more than 5 brands of hardened steel nozzle… In the end I decided that using a brass nozzle for each 300 grams of fiber filament works better than any of the hardened ones. Even with increased temperatures, print quality and strength are greatly decreased with the steel ones.

[@physicsquack7660]

The thermal conductutivity of the nozzles is the reason for the different layer adhesions. The steel nozzle has a much lower thermal conductivity preventing the same exit temp of the filament leading to lesser layer adhesion, and it causes the material to flow less easily making the brass nozzle produce more "dense" parts from amount of filament extruded.

[@seanwieland9763]

This is great! Would also like to see a review of PC-PBT. So wonderful to see the 3D printing community finally start to take polycarbonate blends seriously - especially for functional parts.

[@RazorSkinned86]

You should try out a tungsten metal (not carbide/ceramic) nozzle instead of using steel nozzles. In the USA you can get a precision machined tungsten alloy nozzle for around $45. This will solve the issue of the nozzle having significantly lower temperature than the heatblock. Tungsten alloys have higher abrasion resistance than steel, have the lowest thermal expansion out of any usable metal (extrusion rate / nozzle opening stay same at all temps), and most importantly have waaaaay better thermal conductivity than steel.

[@Sembazuru]

Interesting. I swear by my TC nozzle, but haven't tried a Tungsten alloy. A comparison between the two would be interesting.

[@RazorSkinned86]

@@Sembazuru the carbide (because carbide is a form of ceramic) has terrible thermal conductivity and results in even lower layer adhesion than a steel nozzle. this is the main issue with steel, carbide, and ruby nozzles. tungsten metal on the other hand has thermal conductivity almost on par with copper and the only material used for nozzles better than tungsten alloy is synthetic diamond. synthetic diamond nozzles ofc have the highest abrasion resistance and thermal conductivity out of any nozzle material but at a couple hundred dollars a piece to have machined verses the around ~$45 for tungsten alloy, tungsten alloy wins out as best possible performance characteristics while still making sense cost wise.

[@Sembazuru]

@@RazorSkinned86 TC's thermal conductivity is 110, right in the same ballpark as brass (120), which as the default nozzle material for our class pf printers can be considered the baseline. Tungsten metal is 164, not that different from brass. Granted, I think that is pure Tungsten, I'm not sure about the Tungsten alloy used for nozzles...

[@Sembazuru]

@@owowowdhxbxgakwlcybwxsimcwx I used microSwiss plated copper nozzles once for a big batch of HTPLA-CF and started to notice the flat tip of the nozzle started to take on a copper color. I switched to TC after that.

[@WaschyNumber1]

Very nice video 👍 🖖 I wonder what filament would be best for producing a swaging tool for lead or lead free air gun pellets 🤔

[@TrueThanny]

When you test nozzle materials, putting plated brass in the mix would be helpful. Not only for thermals, but also wear resistance compared to hardened steel.

[@Brocknoviatch]

I just installed a plated copper nozzle from trianglelab. Which is supposed to be able to print abrasive materials. I wonder how that would go with prusament pc blend?

[@TrueThanny]

@@Brocknoviatch The PC blend isn't abrasive. The idea is that it's a pain to switch nozzles, so you want a nozzle that has the thermal characteristics of brass, but the toughness of hardened steel, without having to buy a ruby which might just decide to crack. But I haven't seen any good comparisons showing how well plated brass works compared to solid hardened steel with abrasives (e.g. anything with carbon fiber in it).

[@garagecedric]

I really like it for automotive use, better temp capabilites than abs/asa, strong, easy to print (in enclosure), not hygroscopic like nylon (big plus), cheap compared to similar spec materials etc, preordered the pccf version to get additional temp properties, looks promising.

[@MeMyselfAndI33]

Stefan... Respekt !! Sehr lehrreiche und professionelle Videos !! Auch die Tests, die du machst sind gut und nützlich. Neben dehn-, biege-, kerbschlag- und temperaturfestigkeiten vermisse ich die Abriebfestigkeiten im Vergleich unter den compounds. Ganz speziell wurde ich dir gerne folgende Fragen stellen: - Welches Filament würdest Du für z.B. Zahnradflanken verwenden, die einer hohen Reibung ausgesetzt wären? - was muss ich beim Kauf eines Druckers beachten und dieses Filament benutzen zu können - welche modelle an 3d Drucker kannst du empfehlen

[@Chr0nalis]

We got some of this filament from Prusa a few weeks ago to print some of the parts for our Spot robot payload. Flat cover panels turn out very well. Unfortunately I can't get larger parts such as the LIDAR holder to print from PC because it warps like mad, even in an enclosure :(

[@AleksandrEfimov]

I read somewhere that steel nozzles may transfer heat a bit worse than brass, so it's useful to increase print temperature by 3-4 degrees to make them work properly

[@robbryan3044]

Another great informative video. However, in watching it...particularly having switched between the brass & steel nozzles...an idea popped into my head. I'm certain that the great majority of those watching your comparison videos greatly enjoys the material comparisons...but, I have a strong feeling that there are others who, like me, would really like to see at least one video comparing nozzles, especially in regards to the most popular/common filaments. A perfect example would be the Olson Ruby nozzles. People are familiar with the standard brass & steel nozzles...but, they're probably less familiar (many not even knowing anything about) the various Olson Ruby nozzles, such as the one made with brass, and the one made using a copper alloy. While these 'specialty' nozzles were originally created for use with more abrasive filaments (such as those containing carbon fiber), I don't see why they couldn't be used with the more common (PLA, PETG, etc) filaments. So...how about it? How about doing some nozzle comparison videos, comparing at least one (probably the brass) version of the Olson Ruby nozzles against the 'standard' brass & steel nozzles?

[@patrickrenschler]

hi Stefan, love the content as always. Are you still planning on a prusa CF filament review? (Maybe you covered it on patreon already I need to check there still).

[@zeekjones1]

I know extruded sheets of polycarbonate is super tough. Wonder if an oven cure would be possible, and if it would set in a casting material to rid the layers. Would the additives introduce an inherent weakness, besides the now removed/reduced layering of the print? Could make some complex shapes, near indestructible.

[@shanebekker]

Could you test UV exposure and weather exposure for outdoor at different thicknesses?

[@eideticex]

I have a feeling the thermal sensor near the hot end needs to be recalibrated to adjust for the difference in conductivity between the brass and steel nozzle. Mine was off a bit after upgrading my nozzle. Tested by placing a piece of painters tape on the nozzle cone then measuring it after it comes to temp with an thermometer gun. I don't remember how far mine was off but it really made a huge difference with cf-pla to adjust the multiplier on it.

[@philipp2104]

Ich hab schon einiges mit prusament PC gedruckt und bin extrem happy damit. Das Thema brass - Steel ist sehr spannend. Bitte untersuchen :-) Und bitte infos zum PC CF von PRusa :-) habe schon eine Rolle bestellt. hatte bsiher nur PETG mit CF und fand die oberfläche immer sehr schön. Hoffe das das bei PRusa auch so ist. und vor allem das es weniger warping gibt. Danke für deine Videos sind wie immer sehr sehr hilfreich.

[@doctorbolognamd7103]

It's most likely due to the brass expanding more under high heat and allowing more filament to pass through. Depending on what alloy is used, steel expands at a pretty predictable rate when it's heated. It's something like 1/1,000 of an inch per 100° c, per cubic inch of steel.. or something very similar to that. As heating up stuck nuts to loosen them, or tightening a nut that has been heated to get a connection that won't rattle loose over time.

[@RandallStephens397]

I'm curious how the mechanical properties of 3D prints compares with injection-molded parts of similar materials.

[@santiagoblandon3022]

I'm super eager to watch the carbon fiber PC test!! :D :D :D Thanks! keep it up!

[@gusmartin6053]

You should test PVP Polymer (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) as a bed adhesion material. I have been using this for quite a while and it works great on ABS, PLA, and PETG. I haven’t tested other materials. Most impressive is ABS. It will not separate from the bed until the bed has cooled close to room temp. I use standard bed temperatures that you would use with a PEI print surface. Apply the PVP to a PEI bed or better yet use Garolite as the print surface. I dissolve 0.2% PVP in denatured alcohol by weight, then simply wet the bed with this solution and let it dry. PVP is available in powder form as cosmetics materials. You can even get it from Amazon.

[@MG-ct5ju]

generic glue stick are actually PVP/PVA

[@Frank_The_Rock]

Have you done a PID calibration after nozel change? When I first install a nozel X I was having issue until I did that calibration then it became way closer to the brass setting still needing a little more temp but not much...

[@pizzablender]

I would think the tip is cooler with a steel nozzle. But the thermistor will not measure the temperature of the tip.

[@Frank_The_Rock]

@@pizzablender I know its counterintuitive, its a so small part, but it actually made a difference in my test its still probably change the thermal inertia it has...

[@f1hotrod527]

layer adhesion is only 70% of Polymax PC. I would say giving up the tiny amount amount of strength to get a significant improvement in layer adhesion is worth it. Is there going to be a video review on the carbon fiber version of this filament as shown? I did end up buying some PC Blend Carbon. I am starting to wonder if it performed poorly and thats why there is no video released. Would kind of suck, paying $75 for a roll.

[@tafjortoft]

You should test it without cooling fan. I tested polymax PC with and without a some cooling fan. Like most other filament, cooling fan kill the layer adhesion on PC filament.

[@cander58]

I recently installed a hardened nozzle with a silicone sock. Reduced strength from a lack of "ironing" and direct heat transfer was a concern and it appears my concern was correct. Hopefully we can continue innovating to improve performance from more durable nozzles.

[@handy-capoutdoors4063]

I have a question. What is the liner impact resistance? If you were to take a sample rod and hit it with a weight as if you were hammering a nail into wood. At what kind of pressure, weight, or G-force do the material bend and what makes them break? Basically the opposite of your Tensile_strength test. I do know that a slow load vs a fast load make a big difference. Are you able to test this?

[@heron5045]

thanks for the great material test

[@rich1051414]

In my experience, you have to adjust by ~7 degrees to compensate for a steel nozzle, but that isn't 100%, as it effects the melt zone as well. Basically, melt zone is hotter while nozzle tip is cooler, when using a hardened nozzle. It's whether or not that matters significantly vs having to repeatedly change nozzles printing abrasive filaments.

[@michaelhinojosa9665]

looking forward to the carbon fiber version review. the finish looks beautiful

[@martinTintin476]

Hello. As you put on vacuum drying the filament a year ago, one thing occurred to me. You described that by changing the pressure, the moisture should come out of the filament. But when he weighed the spool after the attempt, he weighed what was on the spool and minus the moisture of the evaporated water. Isn't there a mistake in weighing the water on the surface of the filament plus the filament?

[@PCPointerDE]

Yes, it's similar to Polymax. Warping is a big problem. It's a little bit higher than ABS. For my ABS and PC are both difficult to print without warping. Biggtest problem is to print big parts for my printer itself. I have overhangs and with fan off I can reduce warping completly but using support or printg without support it's not possible. So at the end I have very very small warping on some big parts but I use them for my printer succeful. I print with 40% infill and 4 walls and 15% fan.

[@nipyf3]

I'm really curious how glass filled nylon compares to this. I've seen you use it in your other projects.

[@FrozenByFire3]

Glass filled nylon is horrible for layer adhesion. The glass is generally large shards and takes reduces bonding strength. Same for Carbon fiber nylon.

[@Trumplican]

12:40 what brand pla did that good annealed?? holy crap!

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

I notice when testing the hook pieces that the point of contact in the hook itself is very different between pieces. This will cause inaccuracies as the arm of the lever the force is being applied to changes each time. I would suggest alteringg the profile of the hook itself to have a "V" profile instead of the round profile. This will make sure the force is always applied at the same point of the hook, yielding actual consistent results.

[@percurious]

Still no "CNC Kitchen™"? ;-) Congrats on the trademark and on your contribution to the community being acknowledged by Angus in his latest video!

[@percurious]

P.S. i am all for deeper investigations into the nozzle material impact!