Pt 9. Shoemaking...Midsole Making

I am continuing my shoe making project working on the midsole. This connects the shoe upper to the external sole, and requires some precision leather channelling to make it. I am using a special tool called a feathering knife.

[@matthewdenty8470]

Bandsaw ,belt samder and a dremel will be my way ... daughter wants cowboy boots so here we go . Very useful

[@-Oclock]

you are the bob ross of leatherworking no doubt :D very relaxing and informative

[@closertothetruth9209]

it's interesting Harry following your progress with the diy shoes, your workshop sure does have an uplifting element to it with the views via the glass

[@harryrogers]

Thanks...yes I see all sorts of wild life.....jays, woodpeckers and of course the squirrel!

[@charliekingpine3893]

Looking good!

[@mountainmanwoodworks]

Harry, you should make a chest protector out of that thick leather, for when you carve towards yourself.

[@benk3412]

wow excellent work i am watching every episode

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Ben

[@frogslips]

This is an amazing project and looks so difficult. I hope they fit after all this hard work 😬

[@philistineau]

Exciting! Looking forward to the next video! I posted some questions on your last video which you went over - thank you.

[@chrisholt2474]

Hi Harry, Another interesting episode. I am interested in the cobblers tools, thank you for explaining. I am finding the sole construction very interesting. I look forward to the next instalment. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, regards, Chris.

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Chris...I have a few more interesting tools to use on this project!

[@fixinstuff9662]

I've been acquiring tools for this very project. I'll learn from you before I attempt it.

[@harryrogers]

Yes a good idea...I am making a few mistakes and highlighting those for you to avoid.

[@everettmenard5196]

I can't wait for more Harry!

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Everett

[@tropifiori]

Very interesting Harry. I would love to see a video on how to replace heels and half soles at some point. Thanks Frank

[@harryrogers]

Hi Frank...it's worth taking a look at Bedos Leather Works....they have some great videos.

[@SunyJim]

Here in North America that file/rasp is called a 'four in hand' file.

[@tonydeltablues]

I take my hat off to you (you're not going to make one! are you?) for this. Looking forward to the final finished shoes. Tony

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Tony...the hat is next😉

[@tonydeltablues]

@@harryrogers :-)

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

I absolutely love your videos. After watching 2-3 from this shoemaking series, I bought a pair of lasts from Spring Line, and they are on their way to me in the States. I'm excited. I also bought a cobbler's hammer and a pair of lasting pliers. I am still looking for many other of the products and supplies I will need to build my own pair of shoes (boots actually). I was wondering however... do you have a website where you sell your wares? I would love to purchase one of your Russian Leather wallets, or maybe a Sedgwick leather belt. It would also be nice to support a fellow brother in leather craft. :-) As a little tip that has helped me, btw. there is a KZbin channel by a lovely woman from the UK named Anika. The channel is called "Made to Sew". She is an extremely good teacher, and just a lovely gal to learn from. She teaches about sewing, and she has a good video about how to sew straight, even around corners etc. She says that part of the key to getting straight seems is to make sure your focus is not where the needle is actually making the stitch, but to look 1 - 1.5 inches out in front of the needle, because if you are trying to correct L & R by watching the needle, you're already too late to correct by the time you need to. I am not a master sewer by any means, but Anika's channel is good, and I've even emailed with her a few times... enough to know that while her channel is about sewing clothes, she did a Cordwaining course in Northampton so she has shoemaking under her belt as well. Anyway... keep up the amazing work. I would love to know about how I can see your work online somewhere.

[@harryrogers]

Thanks very much for your sewing tips Michael, that's very helpful. I am pleased you are enjoying the shoemaking, it is very absorbing. My website is Bucklehurst Leather, its closed for a few days, but I do have wallets there. Best wishes Harry

[@velvetb9305]

I love how you have done it in my eyes the proper way don't quote me on this but the way you are doing it its called a hold fast iv been looking in to it and you can buy something called a gemmin witch from what i gather is a strip of canvas with i think a strip of plastic on it that you stitch the uppers to what made you wont to make shoes have you all ways been interested or was it just a whim all the best and carry on the amazing work Ash

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Ash....it's always been something I have wanted to explore.

[@123961000]

Thanks, Harry. Very educative and clear. I understand that unlikely there is a single source of knives you use, but may be you can refer us to a couple of reliable suppliers: knives like dragging knife etc. are rather unique. Thanks again.

[@harryrogers]

Barnsley's are worth looking at, as is EBay for second-hand tools.

[@123961000]

@@harryrogers Thanks. Really appreciate.

[@jonathanschmidt6507]

Harry, thanks for the book and these supporting videos. Given your wood working experience have you given any thought to using a trim router to cut the reliefs?

[@harryrogers]

Thanks Jonathan...that's a clever thought, but I think given all the variations in level I will stick with a knife.

[@erdin4499]

Hello Harry. I am making my first pair of shoes, but I am kinda stuck at the holdfast step. I carved the holdfast and made it about 6mm wide. I just cannot get wholes in it. I broke 1 cheap awl, then bought a craftool pro curved awl (didn't feel great, but better than the first awl) but that also doesn't the job done. The insole leather is shoulder leather about 3.5mm thick and looks to be super dense. I then got an old screwdriver that I bent and filed until it became sharp. It does feel a lot more sturdy than the other awls, but that STILL DOESN'T get the job done. In all the welting videos I see, the awl gets in really easy. Any tips for making the wholes?

[@harryrogers]

Hi Erdin, You may already have done the following.... Its worthwhile really sharpening and stropping your awl, also do not go for an awl that is thicker than it needs to be. If all else fails there is the Dremel!!

[@rysammy]

rysammy There is a lot easy way to do the foot bed without all the carving, you should also use .250" thick midsole/insole shoulder leather which calculates to; 16oz, 6-6.5mm, or 11-12 iron. The only tools needed are an ink pen, a cheap stitch groover, a winged or pencil compass, a ruler, a sharp knife and a flat curved inseam awl. The video to watch to learn the technique is Lisa Sorrell ; it's a boot life, video 55. Good luck!

[@harryrogers]

Thanks very much...and I have got some nice oak bark insole leatherfor the next lot.

[@jamesnurgle6368]

any thoughts on where one could get softer leather at the higher (6mm+) thicknesses needed? so far sole leather is the only thing I've found in the uk at the right thicknesses, although I've not seen them sold in those amounts so im guessing you know of suppliers that I don't.

[@harryrogers]

Hi AA Crack sell Bakers leather for shoe making....I cover all this in more detail in my book on Amazon.

[@brifpot]

A band saw works well

[@ToCan2tuViDa]

Is there a particular reason why you didn't do the channel 360 degress around the perimeter of the foot bed for the welt? Is it preference?

[@harryrogers]

Hi you could do but I am doing a rand in the next step on these to then do a built up heel.

[@velvetb9305]

Hello Harry all so just wanted to ask how long do you think it took to do the foot bed

[@harryrogers]

Too long, but I have not done this before, and I am learning from old books! I guess an expert would be a lot faster.

[@velvetb9305]

Hi Harry When you do the channel how deep would say to take out on both sides of the wall All the best Ash

[@harryrogers]

Difficult...it's got to hold....I think around 3mm? But I would want to do some test pieces...and destroy them...hopefully someone else can advise...I could not find any solid info on this.

[@velvetb9305]

@@harryrogers Thank you All so thanks for the advise on the books that handmade shoes for men wow grate buy

[@whu58]

I was getting concerned with your safety at the beginning, but then you started using a leather apron "Whew", ........also, is it worth using a leather conditioner to soften the midsole to make channelling or skiving easier?..............I would be tempted to use a dremel on the outer edge?

[@cybered2]

I'm wondering if there is any real alternative to a stitched leather midsole? This is such a stiff material, probably 4-5mm thick, is there any material that could stay against leather in this case? Best regards from Germany, keep up with this great content :-)

[@harryrogers]

Thanks as you shape it to your foot it is good, but another option is to do a glue down construction with or without sewing the upper to a thinner sole that is then glued or stitched to a thicker one...I have done this in my easy shoemaking series...thanks very much for your comment.

[@floriankulczynski6824]

hi, could you please explain to me at what point are you going to put the strings for pulling the last out? I'm working on my own shoe lasts and i dont know what type of dividing system i need if i want to make higher boots.

[@harryrogers]

Hi Florian...I am pulling the lasts out at the end. My understanding is that it is pretty essential to have lasts that can either fold or come apart to facilitate extraction, as there is a very real risk you will not otherwise be able to get them out. As you probably know my lasts have been sawn in half and are temporarily joined by a wood screw.

[@floriankulczynski6824]

@@harryrogers yes, of course. Thanks for the answer. But what interests me is if I chose the same system you did, am I going to be able to put the strings through the holes when the boots are higher? I understand how you screw it together but you made the holes on the side to pull the last out easier with some string. Am I correct? I’m sure when you will be doing this at the end you will just undo the laces and push the string without to much problem.

[@floriankulczynski6824]

I simply cannot find an last dividing system for high shoes :)

[@harryrogers]

@@floriankulczynski6824 I am no expert on this but I believe some of them are 3 part lasts...you pull out a centre spacer. Perhaps Google around cowboy boot making?

[@floriankulczynski6824]

I will google some more, thank you !

[@user-vx1vl6xx9v]

Good tool for hard leather is metal sheet scissors.

[@harryrogers]

Good idea..thank you.

[@user-vx1vl6xx9v]

@@harryrogers Not at all sir. Sorry for my bad english.

[@harryrogers]

@@user-vx1vl6xx9v Perfect to me!

[@asherarnold5884]

Is this your first pair of shoes you have made? I have been learning what I can about shoe making and hope to make some shoes for myself as well.

[@harryrogers]

Yes it's a bit of an experiment to see what I end up with....can I get them off the last and will they fit!! A bit nuts but learning so much by researching old books and actually doing.

[@nicolasnuneznava5253]

hello harry the midsole in this case is the footbed, doesn't it have to be made of a less hard leather?

[@harryrogers]

Hello there is also an innersole, but yes you are absolutely right this would have been a lot easier with less hard leather.

[@nicolasnuneznava5253]

@@harryrogers Yes, and I suppose that for the comfort of the foot as well, is that leather you used for the sole? , Cheers.

[@RevvanHardy]

hello, what's the name of tool to create line?? ( 7:34 )

[@harryrogers]

Hi its an old pair of dividers.

[@paulnels108]

treat it like wood use a scroll saw

[@harryrogers]

Haha I did consider that!

[@woogaboogawiththegreenteet8436]

looks like they are advancing sir

[@abelvillarreal6488]

Harry, you do have bandsaw don't you?

[@nishali3343]

How thick are the mid soles?

[@harryrogers]

7 to 9 iron insole shoulder by Bakers

[@niekzwartjes2209]

Four times an advertising in 16 min of video, I hope you get some money from that, nice videos anyway