Pure Steel Vintage Bikes (with Rim Brakes) are BACK in 2024!

[@andrewfitton9426]

Paul, thanks so much for the build, I really appreciate your expertise and dedication to doing the job so professionally. The ride is absolutely sublime, I’m already in love. It delivers all the clichés of Italian steel I was hoping for, and more. A very happy customer, thanks again 😁

[@Mapdec]

Thanks Andrew. Sorry for scaring you with the broken crown race.

[@appelflapdrol]

Enjoy, drive safe 👌🌞

[@archieman123]

Enjoy the bike Andrew 🔥

[@slowerandolder]

As you've gathered, in the 70's & 80's a great shop would have run a tap through every thread , prepped head tube and bb with Campy cutters, checked dropout and hanger alignment, and run a bottlebrush cutter down the seat tube, before unboxing any parts. The New England (US) shops I worked in had a surface plate to check the frame's alignment to centerline and very few frames from any source didn't need some little tweak. OS aluminium, ti, & carbon can't be coldset like steel, so surface plates have disappeared but during the phase in of those materials we still checked and very occasionally rejected some; very few were perfect but almost all were good enough.

[@Rafskat]

What a beauty, i have soft spot for this kind of bike.

[@jackiegammon2065]

Vintage bikes with mechanical drivetrains and rim brakes never really left, at least here in the US. For folks with many bikes, most have at least have one model in their quiver that is like this. They're beautiful bikes,work really well and truthfully are the best of the best.

[@AndrewBroadbent-dr8wb]

Ride quality on steel frames is much better than carbon imo. Thanks for making this vlog, much appreciated.

[@CS1174]

That’s a beautiful looking build and one very lucky customer. JIS…so that will be why I’ve destroyed countless screw heads on Campagnolo front and rear mechs over the decades. I always learn something from your vid’s. Great work and thanks to your customer for allowing this to be shared. That is a thing of beauty.

[@robertmcfadyen9156]

Never had a problem with Philips or Posidriv screws . I have plenty of spare ones as well as other bicycle specific fasteners .

[@highfived]

Rim brakes lives matter ❤

[@RorySeanWainer]

With the help of the local bike shop owner and his decades of experience, I built a very similar Willier Superleggra in July this year without too many challenges. The Superleggra is far & away my nicest bike to ride making my carbon fibre BMC & Orbea bikes seem dull in comparison.

[@cecilecorpuz5735]

Steel frames usually will come with seat tubes that will always will be in need of reaming, after reaming I'll always follow up with running a flex hone down the seat tube, this will polish out the seat tube nicely, when using and type of metal cutting tools I'll always use loads of cutting oil, reason why that my adjustable reamers has lasted nearly 40 years. fork crown race being 26.6 this is pretty much normal as well and is probably due to the chrome build up from the process of chroming, this will be in need of a fork crown race cutter to bring it down to 26.4. When doing this process it's always good to break down the top layer of the chrome by filing very lightly, this prepping is needed, if not then Chrome will just eat away the teeth of a cutting tool. BTW: Great looking frame, it'll look better with silver components.

[@lokerola]

I rescued a beater Cannondale R400 frame off of Facebook and fixed it up. Still running a quill stem and it just rides like a charm.

[@Stikibits]

Been on a Peugeot Galibier (531) 14-speed since the 90s and still gets me from a-to-b perfectly well. Why would I ever trade this thing for some plastic fantastic? That thing you're building is INCREDIBLE. Could hang the frame and fork set on the wall and be done.

[@matthewlewis2072]

You know many of the parts are plastic, yes?

[@peterwillson1355]

Very few parts are plastic​@@matthewlewis2072

[@GuyLewis-t9g]

Lovely bike and worth all your effort sorting the issues and building it up. A retro steel frame and modern Campag groupset can be an awesome combination and a lot of fun to ride. Those skeleton calipers are probably the best rim brakes ever. Guy (rider of Colnago Master X Light with Chorus / Shamal Milles).

[@andrewrose9707]

Always enjoy build videos, be it bikes, cars, motorcycles, or whatever - there is something about watching things come together and form a finished product. Nice job and great looking bike

[@malcolmjcullen]

Beautiful bike, you really can't beat that era of cycling for elegance and style. My own pride and joy is similar, a '98 Colnago Tecnos, 10 speed Record, rim brakes. I've never felt the need to get anything more "modern" than that.

[@edwardsjohnpaul]

Late 90s steel Colnagos are unbelievably nice. I've 10sp Chorus on mine, Zonda wheels, it's so smooth and a joy to ride.

[@dalton-at-work]

there really isnt any need to. lugged steel frames and mechanical systems will basically outlive us all. parts are more plentiful and cheaper than they were in period!

[@PhyRexia.]

12 Speed Campagnolo (mechanical) looks better than anything else IMHO. Ekar is lovely too.

[@Jedsonmcfarly]

Beautiful build and lovely to see you building this up with a pair of rim break Zondas. Such a classic wheel set! I've seen that they now make a disc version, but it's lovely to see the calliper set up on such a retro classic frame!

[@daveslater309]

Top tip for older bikes - - if you do not want to bend your frame to take a modern wheel, Grand Bois make 120/126 rear hubs that take a modern Shimano sprockets such as Miche.

[@GaborEID]

Some hubs have spacers you can remove and lace the wheel with a bit more dish, not the nicest but it works.

[@edwardsjohnpaul]

I like your attitude to bar wrap, you can determine what's most appropriate for the customer by what they've got going on. However, I would do a couple things differently, things you probably don't worry about since you're a professional: I'd insert the bar end cap after a few turns, just in case you need to unwrap to redo it, if the tape or cap is being fussy or who knows why it won't slot in nicely; same idea with the brake lever hoods, I'd pull them back down before proceeding too far around the bar, just in case there's a small gap you may have missed and need to unwrap and redo it.

[@felixjackson2670]

Love your level of perfection…have to say that after following bike tech (ie steel to aluminium to Carbon ) since 1970’s…recently ditched my Carbon winter frame and built a 653 Bob Jackson frame (Campag Record 11 speed) and LOVE the ride quality! I conclude that if I was still racing then would ride modern disc brake Carbon…but am not,so….

[@imrevadasz1086]

Wow, even Campagnolo derailleurs use JIS screws 😮, I definitely didn't expect that.

[@Mapdec]

I'm not sure exactly, but it is a better fit than the philips.

[@levestane6383]

There is something aesthetically pleasing about lugged standard gauge steel and a horizontal top tube. I'd probably go for 2x10 friction DT shifting but regardless this is a lovely build. I was interested to see how tight you had the stem wedge. I tend to tighten the stem (and brake levers) just enough not to slip in use but will slip in the event of a crash.

[@matthewlewis2072]

Steel rims, for the full retro experience?

[@peterwillson1355]

​ Aluminium rims have been around for DECADES

[@bbarber6845]

Well done! Gives me flashback to building Italian frames in the 90s.

[@rangersmith4652]

Beautiful bike, and a very well-made case for building up a new frame or rebuilding an older steel bike. Nice choice of wheels. We need more of bikes like this one. I will never, ever use Campy chain tools. Normal ones and KMC quick links work flawlessly. Bar tape--if it's tight, it won't shift.

[@averyhillroad235]

Quill stems and threaded headsets - I always adjusted the headset after tightening the quill stem. Campag Ergo gear cables I use rubber sleeze over the outers to protect the frame. For nesrly 40 years, my RH levers operates the rear brake

[@jimwilliams2239]

Lovely build - thank you. I'd have been tempted to run continental brakes, so front on the left, for the cable routing. Tan wall tyres too.

[@TheRokko66]

Such a beautiful frame and bike

[@TheGreyGK]

Love this build and the attention, care and insights you put into these. 🎉

[@davidlewis4399]

Should have got a proper British steel frame from Argos, Condor, Mercian (now back) and others standard size everything and a dream to build I reckon.

[@KeithHeinrich]

Classic steel bikes have never gone away. And the price charged to have one built up properly is a bargain for a machine that will deliver smiles for a lifetime. The Zonda wheels look epic however I found the bearings carked it after only 6000km of fair weather riding. Easily sorted though but surprising.

[@ericl6460]

As a steel retro-grouch.. i approve 🫡

[@dalton-at-work]

i think the industry pushes the idea that preferring a certain era of tech is a "grouchy" mindset. We just know what we like, where we like our compromises, and they are butthurt that they don't offer us a new product that is better (in our preferences) than something built 20/30/40 years ago. We aren't grouchy, we know what we like and we genuinely ENJOY it. their bottom line isn't our problem

[@Servicevelo]

Really nice bike, and build. Similar to a Bianchi I had recently. The Hirth joint, whilst unnecessarily complicated is a real thing of beauty.

[@averyhillroad235]

Bar tape wrapping: after many years of trying, I now have a method of wrapping that optimizes both on the drops (in to out) and on the tops (front to rear) wrapping which requires an assymetric 'figure of 8' at the levers.

[@hcw199]

I can't believe he didn't figure of eight the levers... That bar tape will naturally pull loose on top now. Amateur mistake

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

WTF? As other old guys have pointed out...welcome to the 1970's when all steel frames needed facing/chasing/reaming, etc. and the dropout/rear mech alignment checked/corrected. That seems to be the case with lots of carbon too, but few seem interested in the idea enough to buy the tools and learn how? This bike, with it's chromed bits cried-out for polished alloy components, is Campagnolo Centaur still available in silver instead of boring black? A few years ago I built-up a vintage Italian steel frame with chrome fork and stays using that and was/am very pleased with the results. Nothing rides like steel and nothing is more beautiful than chromed steel + polished alloy!!

[@jfahey8984]

Enjoyed the video. I rebuilt my 1983 Dave Moulton Road bike with a mix of "modern" Campagnolo but kept original stem, bar, post. The wheels I went all in with Bora WTO rim. There is something personal in assembling a bike. It is all yours quirks and feeling during the ride. Not all of us have a fine bike shop like yours close by, so appreciate seeing how things come together. Your side comments on troubles show getting it right requires skill and experience like you have.

[@Mapdec]

thanks, so glad you enjoyed it.

[@johnr8106]

Lovely build

[@alexnrs8700]

That brought back memories! Thanks for that… Was fun to watch

[@greengonzonz]

Yes, the consensus is that it is a beautiful bike. I have a steel beauty in my quiver ❤

[@grimdark3740]

Amazing love the old stuff and nice to see some campag

[@peterfinlayson1348]

I’m not sure that there is anything like unboxing high end Campagnolo gear and fitting it to an equally high end Italian steel frame. Just beautiful, and the San Marco Rolls seat, the perfect match! People these days don’t get to do this anymore. They buy a bike and get it serviced by someone else and don’t get to see the polished inside of a Campag bottom bracket. I remember going into a bike shop in the 80s and being told that there are three brands you can put on your frame, Campag, Suntour or Shitmano.

[@mereditp]

Love a bit of chorus.

[@markyoung950]

I remember this bicycle well. They were very popular in Veneto in 1984. I was there on holiday and one of the guys I was riding with had a Wilier. We stopped by the factory headquarters and showroom in Rossano, Veneto. The bronze-gold clear coat over the chrome was called smoked chrome. Corrosion is the enemy and destroyer of bicycles. I would get in trouble for aligning derailleur hangers. Of course I broke a few. The majority being alloy hangers that were poorly designed and overly stiff. Have you ever unwrapped someone's handlebar tape and had powdered electrolytes still out all over the floor? My boss would actually measure how even the handlebar tape was from the stem - with vernier calipers.

[@madplanet3351]

I've restored my 1980 Raleigh 753. Full period NOS Campagnolo super record. Take it out now and then. Comfortable ride. Pulls the crowd. Also restored my 1978 Raleigh 531 track bike. Combination of NOS Campagnolo super record and neuvo record. Still rides great around track.

[@isaacrosenberg3795]

You seems not used to build this kind of bikes a bit :) Shop where I worked used to work almost exclusively on vintage stuff, but not this "neo retro", true vintage with old components (but sealed bb, sealed headset, reasonable modern staff that wouldn't ruin the look of it) and we use to have a huge pile of headset race, any parts, we did filing forks fith small files manually, put headset race using modern 30mm seatpost)) dismount with hummer and flat screwdriver (and I never broke a headset parts!) And yes true vintage stuff so fast and pleasant to work with, friction shifters so easier to set up, brake line that doesn't go under the tape too! The only note about your build - cmon. drop section of the bar should be parallel to the ground (or almost), not like you did, probably In your case shifters would be too low because you taped handlebar before setting handlebar angle. And usually this kind of frames comes with clean threads and seatpost goes in without problems, reaming seat tube surprised me here. Also about alignment of the frame - what you did - its only about dropouts, not frame, sometimes when this kind of frames used or shipped it worth to check actual frame alignment (top tube - seat sube line and distance to - rear dropout from it for both sides of the frame).

[@Mapdec]

Well spotted. Much of this is covered in the full length build, including much agonising on the lever position.

[@mrndlprsnr]

possibly should be titled, 'the basics of building a bike'. great vid

[@MrGarycoww]

Love the content and skills on show bud 😎

[@whssy]

Crown race dimensions thing... we had problems getting our heads round that even in the mid 90s! Cromovelato Wiliers are really pretty. I still have the alloy one I raced on in the mid 90s. My De Rosa Columbus EL with the first 9-speed Record group to use the smaller profile Ergolevers in alloy is still my favourite road bike. I rode it the 180km trip from Copenhagen to Odense to get married in 1999. It'll never leave the family. My youngest son already claimed it.... This build would for sure have looked better with the silver Centaur groupset or an older 9 or 10 speed group. Workaround for headtube cable rub used to be these metal "loops on a metal ring bent upwards" things that you put between the lower cup and the headtube. Also, brake cables on Euro bikes are always left front, right rear. It's the rule. Frames were designed for this. Opposite cable configuration is only a thing in the UK. Even when I still lived in the UK, racers would swap them over to the Euro standard and you'd get the mickey taken out of you for not doing it.

[@MrMarkyone]

I love my Colnago arabesque with campag super record,Ambrosio nemesis rims and Royce hubs it’s a dream to ride steel is real 👍On the cables I use jagwire silicone doughnut type things works a treat.

[@kevinfrost1579]

Very nice ride 😁👍……..enjoy

[@andreemurray7039]

Cool build I had one back in the late 80 s when I raced

[@thejonesy01]

The concentration breathing when doing the bar tape, not just me then! 🙂 Nice bike BTW

[@Mapdec]

😁

[@GreggBennett-j3p]

Japanese steel for me. I have a Centurion Turbo and Comp TA (among various Miyatas as well). The later version of the Comp TA called the ‘Dave Scott Ironman’ might possibly be my favorite steel road bike.

[@andyjefferson2161]

It’s fascinating to watch how you wrap around the Campagnolo shifters. I’ve been trying to wrap around my Centaurs doing the method that reverses the direction. I always struggle - to have no gaps I get the tape too close to the thumb shifter and have to cut the tape around it. All because I’d accepted it to be necessary to stop the top section from becoming loose. You’ve given me a different perspective than the Park Tool/ GCN videos. Thanks. Would love to see a more close up detail video of wrapping around Campagnolo controls. My next upgrade will be from Centaur to Chorus to get 12 speed and 34 sprocket.

[@Mapdec]

Glad it was useful.

[@LyndonNLeeming22]

Ffs, I've been riding my chorus all this time (about a year now) and this is how i fisrt learn about that trim on the fron mech! I rememeber you telling me about the double click to shift the front mech when I came in to collect my ADH but that trim feature is really usefull and I'll definitely be trying that!

[@n22pdf]

Awesome dude super nice.. love my steel bikes running Campagnolo to😊 ❤ Pete 🚴🏻👍

[@stuartjenkins3506]

Beautifully built. I love the attention to detail, though I've been told to use ceramic brake grease instead of copper grease as it's apparently much better when steel meets aluminium. It's what modern disc brake systems on cars use because so many components are aluminium.

[@jjashik7]

I may have misunderstood, but in your ergo cable routing deliberation, you commented that in earlier generations the cable came out of the levers inwards like the earlier Shimano sti levers. As far as I know, all ergopower generations used hidden routing. Or did you mean something else? Wreching 30+ years in my home shop and as a former engineer, i appreciate the attention to detail and specs (ie tolerences) that you bring both to your clients and wider public on KZbin. God bless you and the team! From Canada, Josh

[@whssy]

Ergo has always routed cables under bar tape.

[@Kanonka28]

Only rim brakes, the future is back !

[@RPaton]

Back in the day, Campagnolo made a Campagnolo 732 tool. It was a GO / NO GO PASSA / NON PASSA gauge for the crown race .

[@Frank-bb9lu]

Beautifully elegant

[@MrEpsilonZero]

Nice, beautiful build. Didn`t know that campi shifters have extra clicks. great to avoid chain rubbing on front mech. Bit expensive for me guess will stick with downtube shifters.

[@workshopninjathe1st]

They never went away in my book - I’ve been snapping the good ones up round my neck of the woods for the last few years as the local dentists and lawyers let them go for cheap. Hoarding groupsets is becoming a thing though, got two R8000 and two R7000 11 speed groups on ice.

[@Thecrazyvaclav]

Great video, when I worked at wiggle/crc in the bike builds, we had 20 mins for a build, and an extra 8 minutes if we had to fit bar tape!

[@Mapdec]

That explains a lot! I take it they were a bit more pre assembled than this.

[@Thecrazyvaclav]

@@Mapdec just a bit, the actual target for builds was 3-4 an hour, 4 was preferred, not included was the time to get the box off the pile at the back of your workstation, bike out the box, into the stand, so it was more like 13-15 minutes for a build in the end, basically they were thrown together whether that’s a balance bike or a £10k carbon race bike. All built with the X tools/lifeline 37 piece tool kit ( I think it was) and the cheap wiggle torque wrench! Bit of a difference from your fully equipped workshop and benches.

[@Mapdec]

@@Thecrazyvaclav it would be so interesting to podcast with you one day.

[@Thecrazyvaclav]

@@Mapdec lol, thanks for the offer, I’d be your worst guest ever, I’ve nothing interesting to say, and I really don’t want people to know who I am, privacy an all that hence the assumed name and cartoon pic

[@peterwillson1355]

​@@ThecrazyvaclavYou are not alone.

[@madyogi6164]

Nice bike, great video to watch.

[@Mapdec]

Thanks! 👍

[@dquad]

My daily beast is a 1994 steel bike running full R7000, it's an absolute blast to ride

[@SprayIgniteBoom]

Thanks!! Just bought a ‘94 Francesco Moser in Red, white letters. Have Campangolo Record brakes, non-indexed shifters, re-conditioned Record cranks, jag-wire cables, Fausto Coppi seat post (signed series) Cinelli quilt stem, 3t bars 10-spd front/rear Record derailleurs. I’ve a Kuota K-Factor that also runs Campangolo 10spd and wheels: Tubular Bora Ultras, Tubular Racing Zero, clincher Scirocco and G3 also building some cf 38mm hoops w/Stans hubs and Miche hubs. Living in N.E. Italy 🇮🇹 grants me direct access to beautiful roads and areas- MTBs are a custom lugged Ti frame full xtr, ‘97 Trek 850 sport 3x8 (Specialized crank) avg Shimano no frills just simple.

[@Oilyhands749]

Great that a professional can’t decide on the bar wrap , gives a curb side mechanic some hope!

[@Mapdec]

I firmly believe there is no right answer to bar taping. I have tried them all. The best thing is to wrap it tight and neat and it will usually hold.

[@enigma1000]

@@MapdecBut is there a wrong way? I used to wrap from the centre out…. (no longer though)

[@robertrjm8115]

That's the reason why I keep my Koga Miyata from 1982. But upgraded to 11 speed Deore since like he bike I am not getting any younger.

[@harryrowland4734]

I know that Italian frames are or were the dream of so many, the truth is that most are mass produced and don't come close to what many British frame builders can build. Everything was tapped, faced and reamed before being handed over. We just couldn't compete with the paint, we couldn't build training frames at Italian prices.

[@trevekneebone369]

Campy?! It's Campag in the UK 👍

[@CharlieMetcalf]

All the issuers you had in the very beginning are due to it being a repop. If it was an original, those issues (other than crown race) would be non existence or already fixed. I recently bought a Stork Romani from the 80's. Everything fit perfectly. I wish they made silver parts again for us that dont care for everything being black. They make clear tape just to keep the cable from rubbing on the frame. That turned out to be a stunner of a frameset. I think old school Campy would have looked better.

[@Raymond-Farts]

I was going to buy one of those frames, I'm glad I didn't. I opted to go with a custom steel frame builder instead. I still haven't received the bike yet but soon.

[@stuartbennett4476]

She‘s a beauty. I would personally also put some 650 wheels on her to fit wider tyres (just my preference). Thanks for sharing 👌

[@harryrowland4734]

The brakes wouldn't fit.

[@bertiesmith3021]

@@harryrowland4734would deep drop callipers work with 650s?

[@harryrowland4734]

@@bertiesmith3021 it's a big drop, I would prefer to use a suitable frameset, finding one might not be easy. A big plus for disc brake frames

[@essex__rider]

That is beautiful. ♥

[@benc8386]

Great video but why did this frame leave the factory with everything not properly chased, faced and reamed? This is part of the framebuilding process that should have been done.

[@Mapdec]

It’s pretty normal for shops to finish metal bikes.

[@benc8386]

@@Mapdec I think the customer is lucky to have such a good bike shop! I'm not sure that many of them even have the taps, reamers and facing tools these days.

[@whssy]

@@benc8386 all good shops should at least have the BSA variants.

[@nickk1658]

€3,000 for a frame and it still needs so much finishing/adjustment work. Am I the only one that thinks that's ridiculous?

[@duringthemeanwhilst]

I remember an apprentice on one of the pro teams talking me through tape wrapping many years ago the night before the Rochester Classic (won by Andrea Tafi I believe that year -1999). he said they were not allowed to use that spare bit around the levers, but had to figure 8 it, and also once done the head mechanic would come and check that they'd cut equal amounts of tape off either side. any faults = do it again!!!

[@Mapdec]

Yeah. I pretty much always do fig8. The bar shape and short lever bodies make it hard on this though.

[@dt7563]

Nothing wrong with 12 speed Chorus on a neo retro build but would have been better with white bar tape, handlebar parallel (or almost) to the top tube, and the wheels a pair of Chorus 10 speed silver hubs, silver Sapim race spokes and H plus Son TB14 polished rims, fitted with Veloflex or Vittoria para (beige ) tyres

[@petesjk]

Funny, I was thinking about an old Bianchi steel road bike during my ride today.

[@stickmenkissarmy6907]

More like this 🎉🎉🎉

[@appelflapdrol]

You don't need to have cables touching the frame!!! Jagwire and Aktiv-8 for instance make rubber olive like thingys that slide over the outer cable (round or elongated shaped) and they are quite tight so they won't move around. And ofcourse those small rubber donuts for the older bikes or mtb's to string around the exposed parts of inner cable

[@appelflapdrol]

Might want to call the owner of the bike to install a few and preserve that stunning paintwork ✨

[@deeranfoxworthy6069]

Check out the Park Tool Crimper EP-1. Definitely a singular purpose tool, but gives two options to crimp the ends rather than fiddling with the inner bit of the Park needle nose.

[@jamesdelgado2009]

I would have just scoured eBay and purchased a used headset to cannibalize the crown race. That Willier frame in the cromovelato paint is gorgeous, by the way. On a side note, as a standard practice, I now use Connex-Wippermann chains with Connex links for all my Campy builds, although I haven’t yet installed a Campy 12-speed drivetrain. My 1989 Tesch S-22 with 11-speed Record, 1989 Pinarello Montello, 1991 Zullo Special with 11-speed Athena, and my most recent retro-mod, a 1985 Picchio Special with 11-speed SR/Athena, all feature these chains and all function flawlessly. Is there any reason not to use a Connex chain when I rebuild my 2006 BMC SLT01 with a 12-speed SR/Record?

[@mrwhiteshorts]

great bike, overall, thats what bikes should be, really. Only thing is, id have put a more modern shape of handlebar in, or, to compromise, have the levers slid up the bar, and the drops much more parrallel to the ground, but not fully. Also kudos for using the Cinelli chubby bar tape. I use lots of brands, and i find the chubby, really easy to work with. m

[@aser885]

When that bike was built it probably had down tube friction shifters and not STI style levers.

[@robertonovacco1549]

you're quite right, built like this is a frankebike

[@matthewlewis2072]

Yeah, and toeclips and tubs and other outdated rubbish

[@bengt_axle]

Sometimes builders use the friction shift bosses for bikes that will have brifters. It allows for a cable stop with integrated adjuster to be installed, as is the case here. Even today, many custom builders use this system because the original Campy cable stop (which does easily break at the barrel adjuster if the cables are not the right length!) can be easily installed on it.

[@whssy]

No it looks like a mid 90s thing. Normal for frames up to about 2005 to have down tube braze-ons and brifters came with cable stops you'd fit onto them.

[@davidpankras1933]

There isn't a production bike these days that can hold a candle to the looks of this bike.

[@matthewlewis2072]

Mason and Fairlight want a word

[@Mapdec]

Mason…. I don’t really dig the corrosion look.

[@johnharrington2400]

@@matthewlewis2072 neither come close. Mason, not even remotely pleasing to the eye and Fairlight has different sized tubes, tig welding and sloping top tube. Hardly a match for this bike.

[@bengt_axle]

That bike is going ride silent and smooth like no carbon disc brake bike can. Put some Squirt lube on that chain and it will feel like a belt drive! Most of the time steel is not as laterally stiff as carbon race bikes, but it has a wonderful spring to it. This bike will also be very comfortable to ride on smooth gravel roads (e.g. Champagne gravel) and probably even the Strada Bianca, with 28s. You should be able to see the front hub moving fore and aft when you ride over bumpy roads, as a result of the generous steel fork splay.

[@matthewlewis2072]

Because rim brakes never make noise

[@allanfoster6965]

Have Campag stopped making a silver Chorus? Gorgeous bike.

[@kevinfrost1579]

Yes disappeared several years ago (sadly)

[@whssy]

Last seen in about 2008 IIRC. Centaur had a silver run until recently. Think it's discontinued again.

[@JoolsBurke]

Absolutely gorgeous frame, but not a great advert for Willier QC!

[@averyhillroad235]

Retro Italian BB threads???? Can you answer my query? In 1987 I ordered a Campag C Record BB from my local bike shop. He could only get an Italian threded BB. He said it would still fit my steel BSA frame, as the thread pitch was the same. The 1st time I fitted it it was a bit tight, but after that no problem. In 2019 I tried fitting a campag Italian threaded cups to my Pinarello F8 frame. That is when I discovered the drive side thread was RH too, not LH. When did the Italian BB change?

[@Mapdec]

The Italian BB has always been a bit smaller thread than BSA and DS is clockwise.

[@averyhillroad235]

@@Mapdec 100% certain, the Italian BB I fitted in 1987 the DS was reverse LH threaded, it wasnt BSa nor French. The pitch was the same, but the OD was fractionally larger than BSA, hence the initial tight fit. The cups were alloy, so left a small amount of swarf, which I cleaned away and then refitted.

[@peterwillson1355]

​@@averyhillroad235might have been Swiss...

[@davidburgess741]

Great! My '79 Dave Moulton with '73 Campy rear mech is what's in style again. SRAM? What's that?

[@robertmcfadyen9156]

The crown race at 1:20 could be reamed , or cut to size with a low speed drill press . I have used the adjustable seat post reamer for this . Do not machine the steerer tube as a neighbour of mine once did in a CNC lathe .

[@aubreyxengland]

rim brakes never left

[@fivethumbs6118]

I thought the crown race on the fork was bigger because of the chrome plating.That was typically an issue on chromoly forks that were chromed. The chrome plating increases the crown race diameter and must be machined back down to normal specs. If there were no chrome plating, wouldn't the crown race install normally?

[@Mapdec]

Maybe. But 0.2mm is a bit much for chrome plating.

[@PeakTorque]

On yt app there is no link to the members section or a join link. Unless im being dense.

[@Mapdec]

It’s just next to the subscribe button on the channel home page. Thanks 🙏

[@PeakTorque]

The only options i see are ‘subscribed’ and ‘visit shop’ buttons. Just a head up

[@archieman123]

How did you machine the fork down to fit the crown bearing race?

[@Mapdec]

It wasn’t with the correct tool. Sadly they don’t make it anymore and I don’t have one.

[@peterwillson1355]

​@Mapdec So you just used a file...😂

[@ratef42]

Hi Paul, are you aware of the service bulletin for chorus chain sets, where torque for bolts were not set high enough at the factory? Resulted in a few inner rings shearing off… finding any info about it is seemingly impossible though, maybe confirm with chicken if current batches are ok. All the best

[@Mapdec]

Yes. I came across that in speaking, but never actually seen the bulletin. It’s always worth checking the bolts. In Shimano SRAM too. I think I mention it in the full length vid.

[@jennibristol7720]

I like to see the brake caliper set up next time please 🙏

[@Mapdec]

its in the full length vid in the members section

[@czpevoz]

Nice video, somehow more entertaining than just dream bike build videos. As campagnolo fan and owner I have big complaint! Campagnolo cable housing have logos printed in such way that you should be able to nicely arrange campagnolo name visible, aligned and readable from front… next time please do better. Don’t take me too seriously;) just joking ;)

[@Mapdec]

Oh, I did that. You can see in the full length vid. I also did the logo on the rear brake piece.

[@czpevoz]

Not according to my standards ;) 21:27 apparently front brake housing logo is just at the brake, it should be in the center between brake and handlebars facing forward;) But still like the video, bike and content you are creating :)

[@davidbrister8400]

Any thoughts on pretreatment for the inside of steel frames like these to slow oxidation? Looks like this one already started from needing to ream the seat tube.

[@Mapdec]

kinda needs to be done at factory really. A few niche MTB brands use a black oxide treatment. For old frames you can't really beat just spraying oil in there once in a while.

[@levestane6383]

Waxoyl, dilute with white spirt and slosh around.

[@bastjanlee]

Wait. Where’s the member’s section? 😅

[@hl8964]

Thanks for the video, Paul. Very nice bike. Total weight less than 9kg? Greetings from Germany.

[@Mapdec]

I think it was about 10kg defo not light.

[@hl8964]

@@Mapdec Thank you.