PZEM-061 AC Panel Meter Wiring

How to wire up a Peacefair PZEM-061 AC panel meter.
There are two pair of wires to connect the panel meter to your load. First you want to be sure and connect the two wires from the current transformer (CT) to the marked terminals on the back of the meter. This way you are sure they are connected to avoid damage to the meter or CT. You'll then run one of the load wires through the CT to sense the current in that wire.
The other two terminals are connected to the live and neutral wires powering the load. Note that you are wiring the panel meter in parallel to the load, not in series. The two wires are simply there to sense the voltage going to the load as well as provide a small amount of power to operate the meter.
And that's it, the meter will now sense voltage and current flowing into the load. There's no polarity on either the CT or voltage wires, just make sure to get those wires connected to the proper terminals.
The meter seems to read fairly accurate current, 0.34 amps by the meter and 0.344 amps by my clamp on ammeter.
Panel meter review video:
• AC Power Panel Meter
Cliff QuickTest review video:
• Cliff Quicktest Review...
Be sure to rate, comment and share.
And as always, thanks for watching!
SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
web.archive.org/web/201704022...

[@richardyates5321]

Best Video on panel meter. Thank you! Ordered cliff quick test today.

[@SidneyCritic]

Yay got mine working. I bought the split CT and it was reading very low(3-19W max) for the total power usage of my whole house. I then thought that maybe the ferrite cores weren't touching so I cleaned the contacting ends and clamped it to the mains wire with the CT wires open circuit and it started buzzing. Plugged it in and now it's reading 500W. Thanks for the vid.

[@The4Crawler]

Great, glad the video helped. I haven't tried any of the split core CTs with this meter yet, so this will be good to know for anyone using one of those.

[@SidneyCritic]

When I saw your vid I knew something was wrong with mine because yours was so accurate. I had been using it for 2 days and thought something was wrong, and after finding your vid, I checked the CT and there was some goo in it. I think you can buy the split CT separate online, and it does save that dangerous threading a main power box wire through the CT.

[@wayneo7220]

So glad to find this video. I was surprised there was so little info on setting one of these up, at least in english.

[@The4Crawler]

Thanks for the comment. Yes, I found the same thing, so once I got it sorted out, figured that would be be a good video topic.

[@lukwuestenbergs]

Thank you very much. Everything is clear to me.

[@zorka4098]

Thanks for this video. I just purchased one of the dual AC Volt/Ammeter and it did not include any instructions. Glad you were able to explain the set up. Mine is a little different, but the concepts are the same and I do know where the hookups go now.

[@The4Crawler]

Glad the video helped. Yes, even if you received instructions, they are pretty confusing.

[@chriscollingwood9389]

Great explaining. I could not figure it out from the instructions. This was very easy to understand. Thank you!

[@hassanaugust6530]

I know Im quite off topic but does anybody know of a good website to watch newly released movies online ?

[@kchoudri]

Thank you for sharing this informative video. This really helped me understand the setup.

[@Ozzie4Para]

Great info here, thanks a bunch. I just bought two of these meters and I plan on building my own meter to monitor how much current I'm pulling through my new inverter generator so I don't overload it.

[@The4Crawler]

Glad I could help. Sounds like a good project. Just make sure and wire up each meter between one hot leg and neutral and then run the hot wire through the CT.

[@garcosta]

Great info but I have a question please. I am going to use 2 meters on the 2 legs of a 2 pole 50 amp breaker to my generator. I want to measure the load on each side of my panel. My question is the hot wire from the meter, #3 or 4 connection, needs to go to the load. So if I connect one of those wires to the hot wire to the 50 amp circuit breaker and the other to neutral, won’t that be too much for the meter and shouldn’t the wire gauge be equivalent to the 6 awg from the 50 amp breaker? If I use a 22 awg, won’t that wire heat up or melt? Thanks for helping me understand how to handle that.

[@Ozzie4Para]

@@garcosta the power wire for the meter will be fine as is because the meter itself barely pulls any power at all.

[@garcosta]

@@Ozzie4Para Thanks for that. Also, if I extend the 2 wires for the CT about 3 ft, do you think it will affect the accuracy of the unit?

[@Ozzie4Para]

@@garcosta three feet definitely won’t affect any accuracy.

[@dualtraceengineering9597]

Thanks for this review; how accurate is this meter? Have you tried using two PZEM-061 measuring the same load simultaneously and see if their measured values are nearly the same?

[@johantenhove7770]

Thank you very much for the clear video, it explained a lot to me. I am trying to setup an Orange Pi so that it measures the "return of investment" of some solar panels. I feel motivated now to hook the PZEM (a bit different one) up to it :)

[@The4Crawler]

Glad you found the video helpful. There's one of the meters that has serial data output, the 004T model. It's only for AC power.

[@sammy2888]

Hi Brown , I use the same kind of meter to check my speed controller , It got burnt . Lesson leant . Never use such meter to check the voltage on speed controller . Now need to purchase a new one . Thumps up Brown will follow your way to fix the new meter . Thanks

[@The4Crawler]

Ah, good to know, sorry for the loss of the meter. The voltage out of the controller must have very high spikes and that took out the internal power supply. I hope to get one of my meters modified to take a separate power supply input so should be more tolerant of that sort of situation.Stay tuned for that video.

[@sammy2888]

Hi Brown , Glad to hear from you , At least my info helps many other victims who may not know the serious of the control output voltage . I will wait for your next meter modification video , Thanks Brown for your support Sammy

[@Osgood913]

Thank you so much for this. Very nice explanation!

[@The4Crawler]

You're welcome, glad you found the information useful. Really nice little meters once you figure out how to wire them up.

[@bitprebit8329]

Hi Brown, thanks for this video. It’s very helpful. I am wondering if it’s possible to power the meter from one line and measure the amperage on another line? I have 3 lines coming in to my house and I want to measure them separately. I ordered 3 meters and I am thinking it would be easier to power them from the same place. Thanks !

[@The4Crawler]

You bet, see below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGOwiYuJqt-AaM0 Depending on how you wire them, they may be measuring just one voltage and applying that to the 3 different current readings to calculate the power. But if all 3 lines are of similar voltage, then that's not a big deal.

[@paulpells1864]

A couple of questions. Can I supply the meter from a mains socket to the device and put the CT round the house incoming wire. Secondly, can I extend the CT wire to say 10 feet without lossof accuracy, or not too much loss, thanks.

[@The4Crawler]

Sure, as long as you have a split coil CT that'll fit around that wire: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4W3goeufd-CoLM Signal from a Current Transformer is just that, a current, so as long as there are no breaks in the line, it can extend a fair distance and the current signal remains the same.

[@oloquino]

nice test!

[@davejohn255]

Thanks , That is the way I understood it as well. gave you a Thumbs up. I am using one of these to Monitor the Watt usage of my 12500 Generator. I am going to need 2 of these correct? One CT (Clamp) for each 120V leg of the 50 Amp Inlet wire. Then add the readout Watts to come up with a total. Going to mount these at my Service Panel so I can check the wattage as I turn breakers on. The CT will not work around both legs correct?

[@The4Crawler]

I hope to be making a video shortly to answer this frequently asked question. The answer is it depends on what's the most important thing you want to answer. 2 meters will give the separate watt/amp readings with the need to add the watts to get the total output. 1 meter/CT with some tricks can give you much of the same information in one reading, but will take some math to extract the individual line readings. Or you can get a true split-phase power meter, with 2 CTs to do it all in one readout, albeit at a much higher cost.

[@chex313]

@@The4Crawler Looking forward to the vid... By tricks I guess you mean I just can't double the reading from one to come up with a toatal..

[@The4Crawler]

@@chex313 I covered one option in the video below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk You can also double the current with both load wires through the CT but there are some tricks to figuring out the individual currents/watts.

[@ShradeCorelancer]

Hi, Is this device possible to measure air conditioner consumption? as i would be connecting it to a circuit breaker inside the switch board, i have no idea of what type of cable to use.

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, in theory it should work for that. If connecting inside of a switch board, you would want to use the same size cable as that circuit breaker supplies to the air conditioner. This is because that circuit breaker is sized to protect the wiring from the breaker to the load (A/C) and any wiring off that breaker should be the same size. You might be able to use a smaller gauge wire and separately fuse it since the meter itself only needs a few milli-amps of current to operate. You can see how I installed a meter like this inside a metal junction box to make plug-in power meter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk

[@JeremyW]

Got one of these from amazon today. Showed up DOA, would not power up. I'll be referencing this video again when the replacement shows. Thank you for the detailed walk through.

[@The4Crawler]

For a quick check, all you need to do is connect the two voltage input lines to power. It should power up the LCD and at least display the voltage.

[@JeremyW]

@@The4Crawler Yes sir. Did that. Never even got a flicker out of the screen. Didn't smell anything burnt, but with it being surface mount tech, it was too small to see anything obvious. Thank you for the reply!

[@tonydelossantos5645]

Thank you for this tutorial video! :)

[@The4Crawler]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Rob555ism]

Great video. I just wish you would do it again and provide a clearer picture of where of the actual wires go. By stopping the video I was able to figure out what where each wire went. I am so glad you did this video and I got to find out the diagram on the back is backwards. The directions are useless without a EE degree (I assume). Where did you get the neat little hand held circuit breaker box? ... I plan to play with this thing some more after a trip to home depot for parts. Then I will find a way to encase it in a box and mount on the wall. Much to learn.

[@The4Crawler]

An idea for a box to hold the meter in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk I assume you're referring to the Cliff Quick Test, the red/orange box with the spring terminals, I cover that in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pne8Y2WhhZtkhLc

[@TheKiloG69]

Nice job Thanks.

[@The4Crawler]

+TheKilog69 Glad you found the video interesting. I've got a few more of these type of meters to check out as well.

[@yofalls]

Thank you very much R Brown! I am installing a 'through the wall' setup (Reliance Control WKPBN30 from Amazon) for my portable generator to be outside. I would love to add meter PZEM-022 in the setup. The 'through the wall' has 4 wires: Green (ground?), White (neutral?), Red (hot 1?) and black (hot 2?). Seems from reviews on Amazon that with this kit Red goes to one row of plugs, black the other - will test. Understanding from posts here that if I want to measure total load I'll need to use either two meters, or one meter with the Red and Black wires running in opposite directions through the CT - is that right? If so, I'm left with one q - to power up the meter, do I connect White to one of the two meter connections, and either Black or Red to the other connection? Thanks!

[@The4Crawler]

If measuring L1 + L2 current (black and red) your current reading will be the sum of those two currents or about twice the actual value. Reversing one wire is needed because L1 is 180* out of phase with L2. If you run the wires through the same way you end up with L1 - L2 and that'll be close to 0 if your loads are balanced. In order that power (volts x amps) reads correct, you need to "measure" half the voltage, or line - neutral. Thus, if you have (0.5 x volts) x (2 x amps) you end up with (1 x watts). In other words, connect the meter to black and white or red and white.

[@yofalls]

@@The4Crawler This is awesome! Worked great. One thing I realize is to use the through the wall kit, I had to use an adapter from the relatively light-weight generator (Champion DuelFuel 4375) to go from a 3 prong plug to a 4 prong connector to the kit inlet. Also, the 3-prong generator out is 120V, so It dawns on me this is more a 'splitting' situation, where both Red and Black are in the same 'phase' (is that the right word?). For this case, I found when Red passes through the CT in a direction opposite Black, I get an average. When they both pass the same way through the CT it is additive. I think this makes sense. Just an fyi too - I did confirm the Red wire powers the top 3 outlets in the row on the top of kit plugging station, while the Black wire powers the bottom 3. All is working great on my backyard table! Now its time to install in the wall. Thanks so much for you assistance Mr. Brown!

[@The4Crawler]

@@yofalls Yes, if it's really a 120V generator, then both L1 and L2 will be in phase. So running both wires through the CT the same direction will add the currents up to the total. And you'll need to use the line-neutral voltage for the meter input as if you tried L1 - L2 you would get about 0 volts between those two wires.

[@1sigtor]

nice work thank you

[@Antexjerr1]

Can you use one of these to check the load on a generator hooked up with a 30A 240v cord? If so would I need 2 so I can read the load on both power lines or could I use 1 meter over both power lines? Thank you for the video.

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, a few options possible. If you want to see the loads on both 120V legs, then 2 meters, one on each side would do that, add up the readings for the total power. Another option is to measure the current in one leg, as shown in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk This would read the total power assuming the currents in both legs is fairly well balanced as well as the total voltage. A 3rd option is to use one meter and then run both currents through the CT. You need to run one wire through front-back and the other back-front so that they are in phase. Then connect the meter across one leg to neutral, so it's reading 120V and the CT will see the total current in both legs and calculate a single power reading.

[@Antexjerr1]

@@The4Crawler Thank you for taking the time to reply.

[@fredpetersen3368]

Is this unit good for 240 v Like monitoring for a rv connection. Will it monitor both legs. I understand maybe two ct’s to do that.

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, can be used on 240V. See below for one option on a pure 240V load: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk This assumes line1 = line2 current. Another option is 2 meters with a CT for each monitoring each leg of the split phase. Or you can use one meter and run one line through the CT forward and the other line through the CT backwards. This adds the two currents, then connect the meter's voltage inputs between neutral and one of the hot wires. This way, you are measuring 1/2 the voltage, combined with 2x the current the watts reading will be correct. Which way to use depends on what you want to display and what data is important to you.

[@ljb5074]

perfect !!! Thanks

[@paulosaints100]

I will use one to measure the power consumption by the house. Can i use ordinary cable to connect the meter to the load in the house switch board?

[@The4Crawler]

I suppose it would matter what you are connecting it to. If connecting off a circuit breaker inside the switch board, then you would want to use a cable of similar type and gauge to what's inside there already. If instead, you are plugging in the power to a receptacle, then you could use a regular power cord. You can check out how my whole house energy monitor is wired with the power coming from a regular plug in cable: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rn_TZJeVmMeJjMU

[@BKTX]

R Brown: by chance are you Roger Brown from 4x4Wire? Anyways can you wire this up to a double pole breaker? I'd like to monitor a new mini-split that we installed for a guest room. It's a double pole 40A (2 x 20A) breaker. So I get that the two wires from the CT would be screwed into the 2 top slots of the monitor, but would you run the CT through one or both hot wires coming out of the breaker (the ones leading to the mini-split). And how would you wire up the monitor's other 2 wires? After reviewing your vid, would i be correct to wire up one wire from either screw slot in the breaker to the unit and another wire (neutral) to the neutral bus and to the unit itself? These wires (supplied by me) would have to be the same gauge as the existing breaker wires to the mini-split, correct?

[@The4Crawler]

Yes and yes, see below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk You could use smaller gauge wire for the meter connections, only high current would be in the load wire, one of which passes through the CT. Now this assumes the 240V load is fairly balanced since you are only measuring the current in one leg and the meter assumes the other leg is the same.

[@BKTX]

Thanks for the reply Roger. But after looking at your 2nd video you linked, I'm still unclear. In your linked vid, you've pigtailed two wires from the monitor (blue w/ black tape and white wires) to each side of the outlet. This seems to suggest in my case that each of those pigtailed wires should be both wired directly into each slot of the breaker. In my original question above, I asked if one should be wired to the breaker and one to the neutral bus.

[@The4Crawler]

In my case, I have L1, L2 and ground with no neutral. So L1 went to one side of the meter, L2 to the other side and if there were a neutral, it would only go to the receptacle or load. But in any event, the meter needs to sense the full voltage between L1 and L2 (i.e. 240 volts). Or in your words, one wire from one breaker goes to one side of the meter and one wire from the other breaker goes to the other side of the meter. Run one of those two wires through the CT. The meter could care less about neutral and if the 240V load is balanced, there should be no neutral current flowing. If you connect the meter to one of the Line connection and neutral, it will work. But it'll only "see" 120 volts and the power readings will be half of the actual reading.

[@BKTX]

Roger, thanks for clearing that up for me. Makes perfect sense now!

[@The4Crawler]

No problem. It was confusing for me as well until I dug into it a bit.

[@adityaerawan7005]

very good, I hope there will be a Pzem 004t tutorial with relay

[@darrenglynn597]

How do you set up the kilo watts and stop it from flashing as it is an alarm as the Manuel states. And if it does start to flash by over voltage and how to reset the module. Many thanks.

[@The4Crawler]

I cover the alarm feature in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/noOmo6l9odaMpbM

[@lotusguy01]

I am trying to monitor the power in a 150 amp service to my home with 3 legs, 2 hot and one neutral (240volts total). I understand I would need to use 2 meters, once for each leg. I know one of the meter power lines will go to neutral bar, however, where would I connect the hot wire? to any breaker on each side? Will the meter measure accurately? Want to make sure I am getting total load on each side, not just at the breaker I connect the meter hot wire to.

[@The4Crawler]

I show a 240V setup in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk Now that one is a L1-L2 with no neutral setup. With L1-N and L2-N, just connect one voltage terminal of each meter to N and then the other voltage terminal to L1 or L1, running the main panel feed wire through the CT. This way you'll have 120V reading on each meter and the line current and KWH on each leg. Unless you have a split CT, it may be tricky to run the 150A main service conductor through the CT, as in you'll need the power company to come out and shut off your power and/or pull the meter while you do that. Another option: kzbin.info/www/bejne/paeVf5mCd8ydjpY

[@lotusguy01]

@@The4Crawler Ok. that makes sense. Yes, i have the split CT. I am using the PZEM-022 model which has the same wire diagram but measures more values. Using this to monitor home load, generator load and a subpanel load. Thank you for the video!

[@Rob555ism]

Based on the video, the transformer goes around the hot wire coming directly from the power source before it gets to the Wago nut. Correct? I keep trying to figure out which black wire you put the transformer. You did not put the transformer around the black wire to the light bulb I assume. I did this successfully last year, but lost my diagram so I am redoing it. thank you.

[@The4Crawler]

You want one of the wires running to the load to go through the current transformer (CT). You can also run one of the wires from the power feed through the CT if that's easier, although then the meter will read the current needed to run the load plus the current needed to run the meter (which is a few tens of milli-amps). Either one will work and makes no difference if it's the hot or neutral wire.

[@Rob555ism]

@@The4Crawler ahhh, thank you. I get it now. thank you

[@parthaceo2090]

Will it work for Aircondisoner ? I need to measure electric consumption of AC separately

[@The4Crawler]

No reasons it shouldn't work for that. If making a plug in version like I did, you may need to change the style of plug and receptacle to match what your device uses. Or if you can access the wiring, the unit could be installed in-line.

[@parthaceo2090]

R Brown there r some potable electric meter in market but costly. So I thought to make like that . meter input side I thougt to use male plag and output side I thought to use female plug. Then I thought to measure electric consumption of any device like plug and play type thing

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, that's essentially what I did in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/noOmo6l9odaMpbM You could just get an extension cord with the correct plus and socket, cut it in two and wire up to the meter inside an electrical box.

[@parthaceo2090]

R Brown awesome. Thank you very much. U r really awesome

[@richardyates5321]

Where did you get ac portable Circuit Breaker for testing?? Thanks!

[@The4Crawler]

That's a Cliff QuickTest, I got mine from Newark as I recall: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pne8Y2WhhZtkhLc There is apparently one with US wire colors available now.

[@bobteree9763]

Can you pass two 120v hot legs through the current transformer to measure 240v or does the 240v need to be on one conductor?

[@The4Crawler]

Apparently yes, you can do two legs through the CT although you need to consider the direction of current flow and what sort of load you are measuring. In my case, a pure 240V load, no neutral connection, so current in leg1 equal to current in leg2, so only one leg needs to be measured in the CT. For an unequal load, if you run two legs through the CT you'll get one of two readings. If both wires are run in the same direction, you'll get the difference in current of the two legs. If you reverse one leg through the CT, apparently you'll get an average current reading of the two legs and I think you'll need to measure a L-N voltage not L1-L2. This is because you are adding the current in L1 and L2 together and thus you need to use half the voltage (120V instead of 240V). Now if you want to measure each leg separately, you'll need two CTs and either two of these sort of meters or a more sophisticated meter with multiple CT inputs.

[@kc8pnd]

@@The4Crawler If I wanted to measure my house at the breaker panel what leg does this need to be on since there are two, Ground and two hots @ 240v 200amp main shutoff?

[@The4Crawler]

A few options. One is like in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk Measure current in 1 leg, voltage across 2 legs. Works well for a balanced 240V load where the same current flows in both legs. Second option is to run both L1 and L2 through the CT in opposite directions and then measure voltage between one leg and neutral. This will show you the sum of currents in L1 and L2 combined with a line-neutral voltage and resulting power. Practically, this likely won't be possible, because your main feeder wires are probably too large to fit through the CT together. Third option is to get 2 meters and 2 CTs. Hook one to L1 and neutral and the other to L2 and neutral and you'll have 2 displays with current, voltage and power readings for each leg. Add the power readings together for the total power. Fourth option is to use something like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/paeVf5mCd8ydjpY This is a home energy meter with 2 CTs and it interfaces to my home automation system (it has no built in display). There are other stand alone home energy monitor systems, I think one is called TED. Similar design, 2 CTs that clamp around L1 and L2 and then measure a voltage.

[@Jon-ie8kk]

I want to know what the energy usage of my 240V well pump is... so two hots. Do I put both through the CT? Do I then have to power the device with 240V.. or do I power with 120V? Thanks.

[@The4Crawler]

One hot through the CT and power the meter from 240V: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk

[@Jon-ie8kk]

@@The4Crawler It worked, Thank you!

[@jpiv3177]

Thank you sir for this video. I keep seeing mixed comments on how to use the CT to monitor genset power coming from a plug-in to power the panel. I have a 50amp plug-in for my generator that has 50amp outlet. This plug goes to a 50amp breaker in my panel that I flip on when using the genset, and disconnect from service. So I want to put a CT on the 50amp line at the panel to monitor the genset power draw. So isn't the power coming from genset all in phase and couldn't I run both hots going to the 50amp breakers in the same direction through the CT?

[@The4Crawler]

3 options, will be covering in an upcoming video. 1. Run 1 hot wire through CT, connect voltage inputs across both hots like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk 2. Run both hots through CT, but reverse one wire so it runs opposite to the other. Then connect voltage input line-neutral. Your meter will read 2x amps and 1/2 voltage and 1x power. The current in the 2 hot wires is 180* out of phase, so if they run the same direction you'll only see the difference in the currents and not the sum. 3. Get 2 meters and put one on each side of the 240V split phase.

[@jpiv3177]

@@The4Crawler Thank you sir. For option 1, can run my voltage wires from the meter and connect them to the 50amp breaker used for the genset? I appreciate your time and responses.

[@The4Crawler]

@@jpiv3177 Sure, just connect the 2 voltage input terminals on the meter to the two hot wires off the breaker, assuming it's a double pole version.

[@jpiv3177]

@@The4Crawler Ok, I'll give that a whirl. This seems like the easiest option. I'll be reading 230v across the 50amp (dble pole) breaker and the amps from 1 hot. Total Watts=230v x Amps

[@The4Crawler]

@@jpiv3177 Yes, that's the idea. The current reading will only be as accurate as the two 120V circuits off the breaker are balanced. For a pure 240V load, those would be equal. But if you had something like 4 amps on one side and 3 amps on the other side, the meter will either read a bit how or low depending on which side of the breaker it was reading current from. If you had the CT on the 4 amp side, it would display 960W and if were on the 3 amp side, it would display 720W.

[@jvon3885]

So I messed up and wired this wrong and it popped. Is it fixable? If not are any of the components salvageable? What would have blown first?

[@The4Crawler]

Usually either the input capacitor or power resistor: drive.google.com/file/d/1w80QYWeo8H5LdRoheGxNCMZViL9uqo81/view?usp=sharing I look at those parts in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGOwiYuJqt-AaM0

[@jvon3885]

@@The4Crawler you are always on it. Many thanks....

[@kabelophake474]

Hi is it possible to connect the CT few metres away from the unit

[@The4Crawler]

Sure, that's the beauty of a current transformer. They output a current for the signal. As long as that current is flowing in a single circuit, it's the same no matter how much wire it flows through. That is, voltage drop is for the most part irrelevant.

[@Scottnej]

Could I do this with a generator feeding into my house with an interlock switch? I want to see if I’m close to exceeding the generators capacity.

[@The4Crawler]

Sure, see below for one option: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk That assumes a pure 240V system. Or for split phase, use 1 meter on each leg or use one meter and run the L1 and L2 through the CT in opposite directions to measure the sum of the two currents then connect the meter's volt sensing input between L1 and N. This will then display the sum of the two line currents, ~120 volts and the correct watts.

[@georgebecht6357]

Scott, Yes you can. Watch my KZbin video and see how I did it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2jEZY2hmNWgnJY

[@Billy-Jay]

Could you give me the info on your Circuit Panel (clam shell breaker)? I would like to buy one for me.

[@The4Crawler]

Sure, covered that in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pne8Y2WhhZtkhLc

[@OmarAlvi]

great work. If it had pf display it was so perfect. what are the minimum wattage of load it can display accurately.

[@The4Crawler]

Seems to read down in the 1W range: kzbin.info/www/bejne/naTNoYF3arabpMU and with some work and the current shunt version, down to 0.1W: kzbin.info/www/bejne/amjSpHmiZbGogJI

[@OmarAlvi]

my Brennenstuhl Wattage and Current Meter PM 230, can't read anything less than 10W or I think 20W. So I have to test thing with 20W known load in parallel

[@carlgreen857]

How would I connect this to a Predator 8750 Generator is currently connected to my house by a Twist lock cord from the generator 240 outlet to the house. I want to be able to monitor the total wattage of the generator to prevent overload. Could I just put the O'ring clamp over the Twist Lock cord from the form Generator 240 to House connection? Pls demonstrate showing the simplest way to connect.

[@The4Crawler]

If the 240V load is balanced, then you can run one of the hot wires through the meter's CT and then connect the meter voltage inputs across L1 and L2 like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk If the 120V legs are not balanced, you can run a wire from L1 and L2 through the CT, reversing the direction of one of the wires (so the currents add) and then wire the meter voltage input from L1 to N or L2 to N. This will give a total watt reading that's correct, the volts will be half (120V) and the amps are the sum of L1 and L2 (i.e. doubled).

[@avezkhan]

hi, can you let me know is it possible to extend the CT wires I want to watch how much wattage my Inverter AC is consuming but AC wiring is just below the ceiling so if I install this thing there then I am not going to see anything I have to climb up everytime I want to see whats going on

[@The4Crawler]

+Avez Khan Should be no problem to extend the wires assuming same or larger gauge is used. The CT uses current for sensing, so voltage drop of additional wiring is not an issue.

[@callecuba126]

It's my understanding that this kind of meter only measure one line from the house meter. Please shed some light in this. Do I have to buy two oft them in order to mesasure the real Amp in the house?

[@The4Crawler]

Assuming you have 120/240V split phase service, then 3 options. 1. Install 2 meters, one on each 120V leg and then you get volts/amps/watts on each side. 2. Install 1 meter and run one line forward and the other line backward through the CT, this will add the two currents. Then connect the meter voltage input between one line and neutral, this will measure 1/2 the voltage, i.e. 120 volts. Then meter will read 1/2 volts, 2X current and the total watts. 3. If the currents in L1 and L2 are similar, you can see my video later in this playlist on connecting the meter up to measure current in L1 (or L2) and voltage between L1 and L2. This will display volts, amps and watts, assuming current in L1 = :L2.

[@TheWilferch]

So.....for a main-home panel to check the incoming power from an emergency generator feeding an interlock.... ( via it's own double-pole breaker)......if you use 2 meters ( one for each 120V "leg").....it appears that Current transformer (CT) will be placed around the lead to one incoming leg of the dual breaker...and the "return" like-kind wire to ground ( or ground/neutral on the first main panel.). The 2 wires to the CT simply conect the CT collar to the meter. Correct?

[@The4Crawler]

Several methods to do that. 2 meters with a CT on each hot leg, Line1 and Line2 and meters connected from Line1 or 2 to Neutral would show all the data. One meter with CT on one leg and measuring Line1 - Line2 is another way, shown in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNksi=GcnDpCgEQt4FO1dg This assumes current in Line1 and Line2 are close to the same. Or you can run Line1 and Line2 through the CT (swap the direction of one of the wires) and then the current display will show the sum of the 2 currents (amps1 + amps2) and then connect the voltage terminals between Line1 or Line2 and Neutral (it will read 120V or half of 240). And half the voltage times twice the current - actual watts.

[@TheWilferch]

@@The4Crawler ...prefer individual meters for each of the 120V legs....so 2 meters. Since the "power" connection for the meters will be from some dedicated breaker for each "leg"..I would think of using one-breaker per meter. To assure the reading integrity of each meter....we need to be careful where the breaker picks up power....to match the same 120V "leg" where the CT measures the 120V leg into one of the double-pole breakers used as "main" from genset. Although it would function, we don't want to mix these up id using 2 meters is to monitor the health of each incoming 120V power leg. Thanks for the tip.

[@TheWilferch]

@@The4Crawler ..another question. What is the "desired" ( technically/code) way to connect wires from the CT in your main panel load center....to the meters located outside of the load center? For clarity.. my load center/main panel is mounted flush to drywall in my garage...and there is a removable section of wall immediately below my panel where I can locate the 2 meters between studs. This removable wall section below the panel will be clearanced such that the face of the hard-mounted meters will show flush with the removable wall section. I presume Smurf tube or like kind connector is used for the larger ( 14 ga ?) wire that connects the breaker power supply Inside the load center....to the meters below......can the smaller CT wires be co-located with the power lines inside the Smurf tube?....or need they be separately run?....what's your suggestion?

[@The4Crawler]

@@TheWilferch Apparently OK to run the CT and power wires in the same conduit: www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=181101 I would use something like shielded, twisted pair cable for the 2 CTs to help keep those signals clear of the 120V power wires. For my split phase, whole house power meter I just run the CT wires outside the panel and then the meter plugs into an in-use receptacle below the panel (mine is outside the house).

[@TheWilferch]

@@The4Crawler ...thanks again for the info and for the quick response. Cheers.

[@FFZags]

Is there any way to hook this up the my generac transfer panel so I can see the voltage coming out of my generator?

[@The4Crawler]

You should be able to do that. Just wire up the two power leads to the generator side of the panel. And then run one of the generator power wires through the current transformer to measure the current.

[@carlgreen3020]

Can I connect one or two of these meters to my portable generator?

[@The4Crawler]

You bet, here's one way (assuming 240V output): kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNksi=zxeYES-5APt8lRe6 Or put one meter on each leg if you want to see the individual current and power.

[@Rob555ism]

I duplicated this experiment and got wonderful results. Good fun. My problem now is how to install the meter into a box and then mounting the meter+box into a wall. I see where people have boxes for this thing. Where did they get them or how did they make them?

[@The4Crawler]

Likely they used a 3D printed box. Lots of them listed on sites like Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=pzem Or get a sheet metal nibbler and and cut a hole in a receptacle box cover like I did: amzn.to/2HiRElv

[@kevmck39]

What type of junction box is that? Where did you get it?

[@The4Crawler]

I think that's an old Wiremold raceway box I picked up at the local hardware store many years ago. Looks like they are still listed on Amazon: - amzn.to/2yyfJA5

[@dtondo]

Hi, nice video. Would you mind to give me an information about the device behavior? If the energy that feeds the device fails. Does the "energy counter" keeps the information or it will loose it? Thanks

[@The4Crawler]

Thanks. Yes, the energy reading as well as the back-light mode (on or off) is retained with power loss. I think I show those features in the video below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4PYaa2te7h1e5Y

[@user-zj2me7vp4t]

R Brown

[@user-zj2me7vp4t]

dtondo ةظ

[@huynhat6742]

awesome, thank you for this tutorial the wiring diagram is so confusing :)

[@The4Crawler]

Thanks for the comment. Yes, that wiring diagram on the back of the meter is pretty confusing. It took me quite a while to figure it out myself.

[@huynhat6742]

I don't even know the so called "TC" symbol on the diagram is what for :)

[@jmluab1913]

thank you for this nice video... i am planning to buy this gadget very soon. my querry is, will this be applicable to this setup? : electricity provider(outside house)---->circuit breaker switch(main electricity safety switch in the house)---->this gadget(PZEM 061 AC Panel)---->several appliances in the house(as the loads / including an small 0.5 aircon, 1000watts electric stove, and small 6cubic foot fridge) .

[@The4Crawler]

It should be possible. Assuming you can fit the current transformer over one of the incoming wires and then get the two voltage connections for the meter, it should handle up to 100 amps of load.

[@venkateshe7506]

Yes the caution is the good one. CT should be connected to Meter first and then put the AC load into the coil. Never disconnect the COIL from meter when AC load is active, you might get a huge electric shock on CT wires.

[@The4Crawler]

+Venkatesh E Thanks, and yes, those little CTs look so harmless.

[@venkateshe7506]

Thank you for the video. I really like your videos. Good Work!!!.

[@avezkhan]

+Venkatesh E hi, can you let me know is it possible to extend the CT wires I want to watch how much wattage my Inverter AC is consuming but AC wiring is just below the ceiling so if I install this thing there then I am not going to see anything I have to climb up everytime I want to see whats going on

[@pitlatour3864]

it is great video, i would like to know how to use it on a water heater on 240 V. Thank you for your help

[@The4Crawler]

Sure, this is how to wire a 240V version: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk

[@pitlatour3864]

@@The4Crawler i don t want touse it fixed, i want to be able to test more than one appliances, so is it possible to have a 110 volt for the meter and use the ct on the 240? i hope i ask it the right way.i use 110 v to connect the meter and i use the ct on one wire that connect to the water tank. after i can use it on another tank and on and on. Thank you for your help

[@The4Crawler]

@@pitlatour3864 In the video I linked above, I show how to make a portable 240V power meter. This would be set up for 240V loads only. I wire the voltage sense input across 240V (line to line) and only one line wire goes through the CT. Another way to wire the meter is connect the voltage sense across 120V (line to neutral) and then run both line or load wires through the CT. But you want one wire running left-right and the other running right-left, so that they are 180 degrees out of phase. This way the meter will be reading 1/2 the voltage (120V) but 2X the current so the power and KWH readings will be correct. You could do either wiring style with the CT separate and then run the load wires for each appliance you want to measure through the CT. I think I've heard about a version of the meter that has a split CT so that would make it easier to install around existing wiring. I've never looked into that newer version myself so don't have a link to it.

[@rlrl79]

How would you wire this on a 240v 2 phase on 2x120v?

[@The4Crawler]

See below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk This is for a pure split phase 240V load, no neutral connection. This setup measures current in one leg and the full line-line voltage.

[@Rob555ism]

It always takes me a while to sort out what wire you refer to

[@The4Crawler]

Any particular wire? I just have the red/black CT wires hooked to the upper 2 screw terminals. Then there are 3 black (neutral) and 3 white (hot) wires. One each from the power source. One each to the load and one each to the meter (and connected to the bottom 2 screw terminals). Pick one of the wires to the load (light bulb) and run it through the CT and it should work.

[@Rob555ism]

@@The4Crawler I am about to set up another one of these things. The video is nice, but I have to stop it in order to trace which wire goes where. The video shows black and white wires in a circular pattern and crossing over each other which is most confusing. As with last time I will draw the thing out and go from there. I love this meter. It is especially useful to me since it is in line with a wall plug connected to my outside Honda generator. Tells me what everything is drawing.

[@The4Crawler]

I was trying to follow the standard wiring code with the black/white wires and they ended up a bit too long to all fit in the camera frame without coiling them. May redo the video in the future with different wire colors and much shorter. You just have the black/white wire pairs, one pair from the power source (like you generator), one pair to your load(s) and then one pair to the meter. All 3 pairs connect together at some point, I used some Wago lever nuts, could also be a wire nuts or whatever. Then all you do is take one of the 2 wires running to the load (or one of the wires running from the generator) and run it through the CT. Makes no difference which color wire or which direction.

[@jamesirby65]

Can you add more length to ct wires

[@The4Crawler]

Sure, the CT only sends a sense current proportional to the load current, so any small voltage drop over additional wire isn't an issue.

[@ddistrbd1]

I connected a PZEM-021 to my 3A Variac, when I test 100 Watt incandescent bulb, the meter shows 10 or 11 W, how can I make it show the actual wattage? like in 3 digits.

[@The4Crawler]

Works fine on on my meter connected to a 7A Variac: photos.app.goo.gl/94N1RwSKrB1en83K8 100W bulb, 100.3 watts @ 119 volts. Maybe check that you have everything connected properly. I go through the setup in detail starting with this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/amjSpHmiZbGogJI

[@ddistrbd1]

@@The4Crawler I don't know much about this subject(electricity) so I just followed Paladinejme's video and he was extremely helpful in guiding me to wire my meter properly so I know it is wired according to what he has done with his which worked perfectly for him, mine OTOH, from the getgo has 0.3A residual leakage? if that's the right lingo?, and the wattage shows 00.0, so it can never show 3 full digits like 100.5 watts, if I connect a100 W bulb and set my variac at 110V, this is what I'll get:110V, 0.13A, power/Watt 14.2. I guess it either has something to do with the small size of the variac(3AMP, 300W) or the meter is limited to show wattage in 2 digits. I googled pzem-21 and saw a few meters that is exactly the same as mine and shows two digits of wattage.

[@The4Crawler]

@@ddistrbd1 My meter is about 4 years old, so perhaps something has changed since then. But it's somewhat normal to show a small current with no load, that's due to the meter itself pulling power to operate. That's what I saw on mine until I did this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKGliX6keNiforM The idea is to separate the power/current for the meter's power supply from the voltage and current flowing to the load. Also, the meter will start out reading 0.0 up to 9.9 watts then as the load increase, it'll go up to 99.9 watts then it'll jump to 100.0 and higher.

[@loamy]

Good explanation, need to zoom out more to make sense of the spaghetti

[@The4Crawler]

Ok next time. Will need to find a camera with a wider field of view.

[@mohamedvasifalis6111]

is there any option to store data in this device?

[@The4Crawler]

The only thing that's stored in this particular meter is the accumulated energy (KWH) reading and the setting of the display backlight and the power alarm threshold.

[@viviangirard5075]

Thanks for sharing with your great teaching skills!

[@The4Crawler]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video.

[@naonis100]

Ottimo

[@SJ_999]

Would this be possible to connect to a 4 outlet?

[@The4Crawler]

Here's how I put one in a double gang box for a 240V receptacle: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpm1Xo1soaeYkNk Should be similar for multiple outlets but you'll need more room for the meter.

[@SJ_999]

@@The4Crawler I meant as in connect the meter into the wiring of a gang out let

[@The4Crawler]

@@SJ_999 All you need to do is run the hot or live wire feeding the 4 outlet box through the CT and hook up the hot and neutral to the voltage inputs on the meter.

[@SJ_999]

@@The4Crawler yeah I think I figured it out. But for the hots going to the meter do they need to be on the first outlet if I’m jumping the other one to it. Because I don’t think it’s possible without jumping them together

[@The4Crawler]

@@SJ_999 If you want to measure the power for all the outlets, just run the incoming hot wire through the CT before connecting to the first outlet. Then you can connect the first outlet to the next one. This way, all the current flowing to all the outlets, goes through the meter current transformer first.

[@leethalvinylarrival4712]

2:25 for the big reveal

[@ljb5074]

can you use the same meter to measure 230 volts and how do you wire it!

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, it's rated up to 260VAC, so no problem on 230V. Wire identical to 120V, one of the load wires through the CT and then the sense/power wires across the load.

[@ljb5074]

so use only one side of the 230 volt wires and it will measure 230 volts

[@The4Crawler]

If you are talking about 230 volt split phase where you have a L1, N, L2 wires, put the meter across L1 and L2 and ignore the neutral connection. If you do L1-N the meter will only see 115V and thus measure only half the power, same with L2-N. You want the meter voltage terminals hooked to L1 and L2 (in the US, likely the black and red wires). The meter display should show 230 volts and then the power will be correct.

[@vvvwwwvvv]

I have a heat pump connected to a 230v 20amp double pole breaker in the panel. I don't see neutral connection. Do I put one of the load wires through the CT or both to get the correct reading? Thanks in advance.

[@vvvwwwvvv]

Amazon sells "closed current transformer" and "open-closed current transformer" which one would work for my type of setup?

[@arrowgunt]

3:13

[@CharlesFowle]

Thank you for this. I am witing one up for a crypto mining rig and would like to measure the power through a c 13 to c14 passthrough

[@SephBane]

Nice video. It reminded me that I had one of these sitting around. I used it to make a high current power supply with a variac. If your interested check it out on my channel.

[@lukwuestenbergs]

Luk Belgium

[@Ok-gu1bi]

I am very poor to.understand the electronic item

[@101ServersMinecraft]

Very helpful thank you so much

[@The4Crawler]

Glad it was helpful!

[@forrestaddy9644]

WTF??? That would be a $15M building here in lesser US. Rent/lease pmt is only part if the nut. Maitenance, utilites, and taxes could be that much again. How much liability came with the deal? That could be a more of a bite than most folks could get their jaws around. I'm sure you looked into this and worked out the ways and means but I can't help being concerned. Maybe a porn studio. Put that 40 power zoom soldering microscope to a profitable enterprise.

[@forrestaddy9644]

And I bit. Crap! Still Mar 31 here @ 19390

[@JohnMc1945]

Audio level for about 90% of the video was terrible!

[@The4Crawler]

Sorry about that, I can't hear any difference. Any particular time stamps where it's OK and not OK for you?

[@JohnMc1945]

@@The4Crawler Hmmm, I just re-checked it and its healed itself, I suspect I have a huge problem with interference in my office. We have just switched over to a very expensive and troublesome NBN network here in Australia using part fibre optic and part copper cables. Its the only thing I can blame for the problem. Thank for getting back to me so promptly. Cheers John

[@The4Crawler]

Thanks for the update. Have heard some horror stories about that network from Dave @EEVBlog

[@Yangmist3r]

Not clear at all. Twisted wires everywhere

[@The4Crawler]

Did you have any specific question on the wiring. It's hard to keep all the wires perfectly straight so I tried to keep the colors matching instead. Small red and black for the current transformer (CT) and then the black and white for the power/load wires. Black to black and white to white and run one of those through the CT.

[@Yangmist3r]

@@The4Crawler thank you for the clarification. I just wish you connect everything from scratch to finish on camera it could have been better. Not just explaining already connected system.

[@The4Crawler]

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll see if I can remake the video showing every single wire connection made on video. I didn't do this the first time in the interest of time, as the typical KZbin video watch time is a bit over 2 minutes.