2019 Honda Super Cub // Oil Spinner Maintenance & Cleaning

[@rtwpaul]

just wondering if you guys ever learned the trick to NOT laying the bike over to put it back together? it's relatively simple - take the clutch adjuster nut off, (don't lose the oring) put a long flathead screwdriver through the hole, and hold the whole mechanism in place as you put the outer clutch cover on, it can be done solo with a little practice solo but a third-hand helps a lot. tighten all the case screws then adjust the clutch pushrod in the normal fashion, done. Dramatically reduces time on this job, and no laying the bike over ever again!

[@sammysokosammysoko]

As a 2021 Super Cub owner, this channel, Dabinche's channel, and Hades Omega have been life (and $) savers. Thank you so much for the time and effort to document and thoroughly explain everything.

[@keithallan8200]

I came here via a couple of comments you left after I commented on another video (man that’s clumsy English!) This has cleared up the inclusion of the second centrifugal clutch. You missed an alternate vocation QM….. just start producing Real World maintenance manuals. The old Haynes manuals used to crack me up with their reference to “simply slacken the wooflum spraget whilst depressing engagement thrumble.” All the time showing images of factory fresh components while I stared at a corroded pile of metal 😂

[@johnhoulihan8986]

I just cleaned the oil strainer and centrifugal clutch on my Cross Cub 110 and this video was a great support. Thanks for sharing and best wishes from Ireland. ☘

[@StraightLineCycles]

This info is gold.

[@jackvoss5841]

Often, when trying to keep loose parts or assemblies lined up and in place, putting a dab of grease onto the parts (gun grease, cup grease like we pump into zerks) will help hold things in place during reassembly operations. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying

[@billlester3088]

One might consider obtaining two longer bolts, remove cap/hex then grind a small point on that end , screw these bolts on top case locations to serve as guides for the outer case in place.

[@Cubrider]

I only have the original c90 but wow what a fantastic, informative and well put together video. You made it all so easy for people to follow. Wish everyone made videos this clear

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

Does your C90 have the a similar oil spinner? Are the gaskets basically single use? They're cheap enough i'm just poor. This channel is kick ass good. 🛵

[@123edwardzpad]

@@heritagehillsecurity8778 I was wondering about that myself.

[@ulrichb3937]

Excellent tutorial - very helpful. Thank you and best wishes from Germany 🙂

[@winkyfab2860]

The trick to holding any engine assembly together when stuff wants to fall off is to use a dab of grease. It is sticky and holds a lot of stuff perfectly in place and doesn't hurt the engine.

[@loco_in_motion]

Thank you! Helped guide me through and give me the confidence to do this service.

[@SAM-zt2uy]

Wow just done the same job on my 1977 Honda

[@kristophertrout7328]

Would some assembly grease work? A little sticky might hold and the assembly grease shouldn't hurt the engine since it's designed for new engines.

[@skipcallaham1517]

We used to use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to hold stuff like this. I was actually taught this at tech school.

[@QuasiMotard]

I thought about that, but we had such easy luck on the first try with Adrian's bike. I was also a little concerned about putting anything highly viscous in there due to that tiny oiling hole in the side cover dowel... not sure if it might get clogged up and starve flow in that area. I'll revisit the idea when I pull the cover again at around 23K miles. 😉👍 --QM

[@pasdutout4690]

@@QuasiMotard ...grease won't clog anything. Also, tilt the bike to the left, first. (from an ex Honda mechanic).

[@ACoustaDC]

Great video! I have an old passport and it is the same pain. I took mine apart at 6k, and it was spotless!?!? Not doing it again for 10 maybe 12k. The manual says 6. The dry gaskets freak my mind out. The spring arrangement is a bit different on the passport, but I kind of held everything together with a bit of oil and wishful thinking. Only took about 20 tries compared to your 3!

[@호랭이고려]

Thanks a lot for this video. Soooo helpful for me.

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback, and I'm glad that the video helped! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@southernairman5628]

Assembly grease is helpful sometimes in this situation 👍🏻

[@easyfromtnbtw3555]

I have a subcage on my Grom so I just lay it on the ground when I put stiffer clutch springs in it and taking the basket apart

[@Terry_1111]

Excellent info and video! Thanks!

[@QuasiMotard]

Glad you enjoyed it! 😉👍 --QM

[@annafraley5388]

So that there is the little screen booger right thar 8:33 ✅ with minimal clearance above the magnetic plug, Actually doesn’t look like it would matter IF the oil plug Did touch the screen 🤔 Is THIS the same as the 125 Trail,or have you done that one yet.??

[@QuasiMotard]

Howdy, Anna! The GoldPlug MP-01 also fits the CT125. I haven't done the oil spinner cleanout on my CT125 yet because the odometer is hovering at only ~1000 miles. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@annafraley5388]

@@QuasiMotard … thanks, we just put the “DeeFill” magnetic 🧲 oil plug in ours 😎they look Much nicer for a few bucks less, and we ALL know how important it is to have a Good Looking oil drain plug.😁🤷🏻‍♂️🤔🤣 BTW, it also will lift a large crescent wrench 🔧 without wanting to relinquish it…😎👍✅

[@taebert]

I wonder if a spot of grease would provide enough stickiness to hold it together? Maybe assembly lube which is a very tacky oil?

[@QuasiMotard]

I'll probably try that next time I have the side cover open... just to help with the triangular bearing and spring. The tricky part is keeping the clutch release assembly balanced while installing the side cover. It tends to fall/tilt out of position, so aligning the boss on the side cover is a matter of trial and error. 😉👍 --QM

[@curtgottler9961]

Is it possible that the cluth disengagement could fall out without takig the side cover off, it you play too much with the clutch adjustment screw?

[@knowone6214]

put some grease on the jiggly bits to hold them in place in stead of fighting with it

[@QuasiMotard]

I can't do that on video... I'd get a community guidelines strike for sure! 🤣👍 --QM

[@keithwade6679]

Quasi Just noticed the odd shaped nut in the centre of the clutch the locking washer with all them tabs is wrong it should lock the nut by bending the tabs in gaps on the nut...

[@yvesmenoud4314]

Good one, thanks

[@QuasiMotard]

You're welcome, Yves! 😉👍 --QM

[@baconsledge]

Wouldn't removing the three bolts and cover (with the Honda text) let you see that spring and bearing assembly as you put the whole cover on? It looks that way from here but I may be nutz.

[@QuasiMotard]

No, that trim ring is just an external cover. The factory service manual instructs you to remove that trim ring, the exhaust, and the shift lever... all unnecessary steps that aren't related to the right crankcase cover. 😉👍 --QM

[@60092750]

Why dont uou use a magnet on the gasket and allingne them on it and then place the whole??

[@daletaylor5734]

Use some sticky molycote grease to hold those lineup pieces in place.

[@jcc8368]

What is the short black plastic lever on the inner edge of the throttle handgrip? Is it to allow the throttle to be locked in an open position? Thanks. Great videos by the way. Hi from England. I just bought a 2022 Supercub in the matt grey finish and am still running it in. (207 miles so far). I,m72 and been riding for 58 years and had everything up to 1200cc. The Cub suits me perfectly here in rural Norfolk. I would buy a CT125 if Honda would sell them in the UK and run both bikes.

[@QuasiMotard]

The plastic lever is a throttle lock (cruise control) by Go Cruise: amzn.to/3Bh3N5h . They are cheap and very easy to use. I like these better than the cramp buster style because I can completely remove my hand from the throttle whenever needed. 😉👍 --QM

[@jameshenry4274]

The new Groms did away with the Oil spinner, I just wonder if Honda will do the Same with the Super Cub

[@QuasiMotard]

I'd love it if Honda would upgrade the Cub with the new 5-speed transmission and a proper oil filter. Maybe for 2023? 👍 --QM

[@nigelbaldwin752]

I have a new 2022 cub and it has a filter cartridge that can be replaced without removing side cover, just an access plate with two bolts securing. Progress ! I also notice the access plates for valve adjustment are different, bolts left and right, so not the tricky one at the rear on top intake cover.

[@Cubrider]

My friend you just saved my life. I have a 2020 model in the UK but I couldn't find anything on how to change the oil. Anyway I did it but all that crap fell out ( you know the bits I mean) and I couldn't find info on the correct order to refit. So once again thank. What model is this so I can order a owners manual? All the cubs I've seen have small paper oil filters. This style with the screen seems more used on the monkey but they don't have the 3 bearing triangle bit. Any info would be greatly appreciated

[@QuasiMotard]

I'm glad the video helped you! The oil change is a simple affair on most Cubs, so this detailed procedure for the oil spinner cleanout is only necessary every 8K miles. You can watch a simple oil change video here if you're interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWHVp5h8g5eHhNU . This is the USA-spec 2019 Honda Super Cub (released in the UK as a 2018 model). These pre-2022 models only used the traditional oil-spinner arrangement, and they didn't have a cartridge-style paper media filter. They do have a small strainer screen inside the crankcase (just above the oil drain bolt) that is cleaned during the oil-spinner cleanout (seen at 8:32 in the video). The 2022+ engines in the Grom, Monkey, and Super Cub have a cartridge oil filter, but the Cub engines still retain the oil spinner (presumably to capture debris from the centrifugal clutch). The manual clutch engines on the Grom, Monkey, and DAX don't incorporate the clutch disengagement mechanism on the shift shaft. I definitely recommend purchasing a Honda shop manual for your bike. HELM is the official supplier of the manuals in the USA, so you can shop their website here: www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_retail_ahc.asp . I'm not sure if the UK has a different distributor, but that should be a good starting point. Cheers, and congrats on your Super Cub! 😉👍 --QM

[@Cubrider]

@@QuasiMotard thankyou for that detailed response. I found out after that I didn't need to go so in depth as its a 2020 bike but this will only be its 600 mile 1st service but hey ho its a learning curve for next time.

[@tomonabudget]

There should be a lip on the engine cover which makes it easier to remove it with a rubber mallet. Or a piece of wood and just a hammer.

[@charleshunt3806]

I am curious, I see that you have an oil temperature gauge as a plug. Where you at the oil I was wondering. Where you got that I want one of those that’s awesome to be able to tell the temperature of the oil is.

[@QuasiMotard]

That was a generic unit that I found on Ebay, similar to this one: www.ebay.com/itm/254924477371 . The JMP brand seems to be good quality and might be available from other sources. The temperature probe on the bottom of this gauge doesn't protrude very far, so it's safe but doesn't get very accurate temperature readings. When comparing the values from the ECU's oil sensor, I see a difference of about 20-30°F lower at this gauge vs the ECU. So, it's good for rough estimates and to keep an eye on the engine, but it's not a precision reading. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@charleshunt3806]

@@QuasiMotard thank you apologize for the grammatical errors above

[@robedmunds7163]

Good job it was not a Goldwing, you would have needed a stouter chair🤣

[@QuasiMotard]

Nah, I'd just make Arian hold it on his knees for a few minutes while I fiddled with the side cover... no problem! 🤣👍 --QM

[@charleshunt3806]

Also, curious if you happen to know and I think you probably do how often I have to clean out this magnet in the cub I don’t think I have to do whatever oil change I didn’t see it in the manual and I don’t have the service manual yet so if you could let me know, I would appreciate it but I definitely am going to get the service manual I absolutely must have that.

[@QuasiMotard]

The magnetic drain plug isn't a factory item; it's an accessory that I installed that the first oil change: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWHVp5h8g5eHhNU (product links are in the video description). If you install one of those, you clean it during each oil change. Honda's service schedule specifies that the oil spinner cleanout should be done every 8K miles. You can download a copy of the Super Cub owner's manual free on Honda's website: cdn.powersports.honda.com/documentum/MWOM/ml.remawmom.2019_31k0ga00_cub125a_supercub.pdf . The Honda service manual isn't available free, but you can order a printed copy from HELM here: www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Style=helm&sku=61K0G02 . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@charleshunt3806]

@@QuasiMotard think you you are the best

[@MeowMackDog]

I feel like there's a screw in your cover that whole set together when you pulled it apart you actually pulled the mechanism apart

[@findingneutral]

What an excellent tutorial. Well done. So in your opinion do you think the process would be the same on the Trail125 besides the kick starter being in the way?

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback! Yes, the procedure is the same for the CT125 after removing the kickstarter. The CT125 uses a different side cover gasket because of the differently shaped cover. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@findingneutral]

@@QuasiMotard Awesome. Thank you for sharing this 🙏

[@joenickel2371]

Use grease to hold all the parts in the right place.

[@vanDeudekom]

Jep thats the way just some simple grease on the bals and walla...done.

[@curtgottler9961]

Was it hard or necessary to remove the footpegs?

[@QuasiMotard]

Yes, the footpeg support bar must be removed to give enough clearance to remove the right crankcase cover (clutch cover). It's very easy... just 4 bolts that are on the bottom of the engine case to remove the support bar. You need to route the bar past the brake lever and the exhaust, but it's not difficult at all. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

I am really impressed with all the crap the oil spinner captured. Do you think the oil spinner is better than the filter cartridge on the new engine? Centrifical filtration is apparently good for 25 microns and the heaviest particles. I'm trying to find out if the newest Super Cub with the cartridge filter has the oil spinner also. Thank you and best wishes. Also, I am really enjoying all the Hunter 350 action too. Your 💩 is always good.

[@QuasiMotard]

I assumed that the newer models with the oil filter would delete the spinner, but that's not the case... they have both! Here is an exploded parts diagram of the "one-way clutch", where you can see the same spinner and gaskets (gasket is item no. 2) in that picture. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

@QuasiMotard That is really awesome and shows just how effective the spinner/centrifugal system must be because they retained it. I am coming to the opinion that you probably don't have any less protection without the cartridge filter, especially because you have the gold plug. I'm imagining the cartridge filter really helps when the oil has been neglected and the spinner catch is full. Thank you again, Aaron, and I hope you are having a very happy Wednesday commute. 🛵 🇺🇸

[@t4ketsuru]

im hoping this is the same for he CT125 hunter cub

[@rockinginafreeworld3256]

Where did you get the oil dip stick from?

[@QuasiMotard]

That was a generic unit that I found on Ebay, similar to this one: www.ebay.com/itm/254924477371 . The JMP brand seems to be good quality and might be available from other sources. The temperature probe on the bottom of this gauge doesn't protrude very far, so it's safe but doesn't get very accurate temperature readings. When comparing the values from the ECU's oil sensor, I see a difference of about 20-30°F lower at this gauge vs the ECU. So, it's good for rough estimates and to keep an eye on the engine, but it's not a precision reading. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@badhabit9696]

where did u get the extra fuel tank

[@QuasiMotard]

That red tank in the center is a jerry can. It's one of only two "Neil tanks" in existence! I have one on my Cub, and a friend of mine, Adrian, has the other one. Our buddy, Neil, custom fabricated those tanks and mounting cradles for us before we left on our 10K-mile cross-country trip for the 2021 Scooter Cannonball Run. They hold about 1.3 gallons of fuel, but they aren't plumbed into the main fuel supply. We used them as emergency fuel supplies and as transfer tanks during our extended road trip. You can see it in action here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIrNnolte9Z_ha8 . If you're really interested in obtaining one of those, Neil might be persuaded to fabricate a few more (he mentioned that he still has the forms and welding jigs for the project). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@jrreeves998]

Could have u removed the oil cap and maybe used a hook pick to hold it in place?

[@curtgottler9961]

Is this a job that really needs to be done? What if you never did this, would there be a big problem?

[@QuasiMotard]

Yes, the oil spinner does need to be cleaned out occasionally. If it were totally neglected, then it might fill the spinner's recessed area and restrict oil flow to the crankshaft support bearing. Honda's service manual specifies 8000 miles for the spinner service and clean-out. Based on my 15000-mile torture test, I think it's probably safe until around 20K miles or so. Our oil spinners were about 50% full of crud and clutch residue at 15K miles (mostly highway). Rough city miles with lots of stop-and-go would probably generate more debris for the spinner to filter out. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@williampatton3444]

Appreciate all of your videos and tech tips. Recently I have not been able to start my cub with the button. All systems are working correctly and the battery is fully charged. When I press the start button it just does nothing. If I push the cub and dump into first gear she starts right up. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback! Sorry to hear about your Cub's starting issues. If your Cub is still under warranty, then I would certainly take it to the dealer for diagnosis first. The Cub only has two fuses (15A main and 10A fuel-injection), so I would start by checking the fuses in the battery compartment. The next step would be a corroded connection on the starter switch; you can spray a little bit of WD-40 around the switch to see if that helps. Otherwise, the starter relay could be faulty or the starter motor itself might have a bad connection (or bad armature). The starter relay is behind the right side body cover, so it's a bit difficult to get in there. If you don't have a factory service manual, then send me an email at [e-mail] ... I can scan the relevant pages and email them to you if necessary. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@williampatton3444]

@@QuasiMotard Thank you very much for for taking the time to respond to my post. I appreciate it very much. I will try your suggestions and advise of the outcome. Stay safe and wishing you and your family a Merry Christmas.

[@williampatton3444]

@@QuasiMotard Okay figured it out. As stated prior all of my systems worked fine when I turned on the power but she would not crank over. I was able to start it by pushing it and dropping it into first gear though. Anyway I thought after a year and little use maybe I should try the simplest thing first, replace the battery. Well that did the trick. Apparently it did not have enough juice to crank it over. Again I want to thank you for taking your valuable time to respond. Best of luck, be safe, Cheers!

[@williamdarico2369]

Do the gears for the transmission run in a different oil?

[@QuasiMotard]

No, the Super Cub's engine and transmission share an oil supply like most traditional motorcycles. The primary difference between the Cub and other manual gearboxes is that it has two clutches. The centrifugal clutch engages automatically just above idle, and that drives the reduction gears that spin the secondary (drive) multi-plate clutch. The drive clutch doesn't have a normal release via a cabled hand clutch lever. Instead, it is disengaged via an eccentric rocker lever that is attached to the shift shaft. Whenever you activate the shift lever up or down, the drive clutch is disengaged to allow the gear change. The drive clutch re-engages as the shift lever returns to it's neutral position. It's an absolutely brilliant design! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@jeffperdue6689]

Can you put the spring and the triangle ball bearing piece on the part of the cover (pin) that goes into the bearing?

[@QuasiMotard]

I thought about that, but it would be very difficult (or impossible) to locate the center of the spring properly because it rests around the "collar" portion on the back-center of the traingular bearing. The spring might get pinched under the collar's flange instead of seating around it. It's a bit of a Rubik's Cube, and the shop manual doesn't provide any clear instructions about reassembly. We had to consult a couple of exploded parts diagrams to be sure that we had it correct because everything falls apart when you pull that side cover. In any case, I don't think it's possible to get everything back together with the engine upright. Tilting the engine (or the whole bike) at an angle seems to be the easiest hack. 😉👍 --QM

[@jeffperdue6689]

@@QuasiMotard Keep the videos coming.I really enjoy watching them.I currently ride a KLR 650 but have been thinking about getting a small fun bike

[@QuasiMotard]

@@jeffperdue6689 Thanks for the feedback, Jeff! I've been taking a break from vlogging lately and focusing on work, but I have a deep pile of videos to edit and post. I'm trying to get back in the rhythm of editing and posting 1-2 videos a week, so I'm hoping to upload a few very soon. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@Lvaneede]

Im trying to do this on mine right now. Getting the side back on with the spring and triangular bit is really awkward

[@QuasiMotard]

Yep, it's tricky. The easiest way that we found was to lean the bike over about 45° to the left side. Several viewers mentioned that using a dab of thick grease on the bearing & spring is another option. Good luck! 😉👍 --QM

[@Lvaneede]

Yeah, thanks to your video I was able to lean it right over against a chair. I wasn't sure how I was going to do it until then. I have the Honda workshop manual, but it doesn't say how awkward it is or mention it is best to lean it over. I love my Super Cub. Mine has done 11800km now, which is about when the book says to do this and the valve adjustment check, which is the next job to do.

[@QuasiMotard]

@@Lvaneede You can save some time on the valve adjustment by not removing the inner leg shield shroud above the engine. The manual specifies that piece needs to come out, but it's totally unnecessary... you don't gain any additional clearance on top by removing that cover. You can watch my video here for more details: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYTbmmehmd5libs . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@Lvaneede]

Ok thanks for the tip

[@packgrog]

Jeez, how often is this job necessary?

[@QuasiMotard]

Honda's service schedule states that the oil spinner clean out is due every 8K miles. We were overdue by almost double that (+7K miles). It's not terribly difficult, but it's time consuming for sure. A fresh side cover gasket, spinner gasket, and fresh oil are the only things needed for the job... plus the tools, obviously. 😉👍 --QM

[@Kathikas1]

How similar is the CT125 job going to be do you think?

[@QuasiMotard]

The procedure should be nearly identical... just need to remove the kickstarter before the side cover. The side cover gasket is a different part because the covers are shaped differently. The spinner gasket has the same part number. 😉👍 --QM

[@tomonabudget]

Also, if you don't haven an impact gun. You can use a coin (soft copper) wedged between the gears from the crank and clutch basket. That's how I get mine off on my Wave :) It's nice to see you can get it off without removing the exhaust. On my Wave the cover is too close. I wonder if you aftermarket exhaust is giving better clearance.

[@easyfromtnbtw3555]

That’s how I changed my clutch springs on my Grom

[@davestraight8219]

Lol at yay - also tell me how you dissed the exhaust but you didn't bother your butt removing it yet lol

[@QuasiMotard]

OH, it's gone now... swapped the OEM exhaust back on before my next ride! I just didn't pull the exhaust during this video because it was extraneous to the oil spinner maintenance. I pulled that horrible SP Takegawa P-Shooter off and boxed it up with another OEM exhaust and sent them to Coffman's Exhaust in California. They'll be making a prototype "Shorty" exhaust for me in the near future... hopefully with better sound, and definitely with better quality than the SPT unit. 😉👍 --QM

[@cesarcampos8982]

Just moved to the Houston area, I'm looking to get a honda rebel 1100, can you recommend a dealership, thank you

[@QuasiMotard]

Welcome, neighbor! I live in the Katy area, so Wild West Motoplex near IH-10 and Hwy-99 is my usual dealer. I've purchased a couple of bikes recently from Eastside Honda in Baytown... they are good folks, too. Rebel 1100's are in thin supply right now, so you should call around to check availability before making a long drive. Good luck, and welcome to H-Town! 😉👍 --QM

[@cesarcampos8982]

@@QuasiMotard thank you very much I'm going to live in the hufsmith area, I'm going to give them a call, by the way my name is Cesar, thank you again.

[@ianendangan7462]

The engines are made in Thailand.

[@QuasiMotard]

Yes, the entire bike is made in Thailand along with most of Honda's other "world bikes". I've had excellent luck with all of my Thai-built Hondas... zero problems so far! --QM

[@MW-iv3es]

I just came across this video. Use Vaseline.

[@torokun]

Only thing wrong with this vid is that you are drinking Dos Esquis beer.

[@QuasiMotard]

WHAT?! You're not a fan of my favorite pilsner? I don't ways drink beer, but when I do, it's Dos Equis! 😉👍 --QM

[@torokun]

@@QuasiMotard 😂😂😂👌👌👌. I am more of a Modelo person myself. I just purchased my Super Cub and I want you to know your videos are the MOST helpful and informative vid I see on Super Cub. Are you part of the Super Cub FB community by any chance?

[@QuasiMotard]

@@torokun Thanks for the feedback! I'm not much into social media (contrary to the evidence), but I'm trying to get more involved in FB. 😉👍 --QM

[@keithwallace3406]

@@QuasiMotard Great Brew with Food!!!

[@crazyED231]

you're stressing me out every time you mention the camera and if your on screen or if the angle is right...just talk about the job.

[@shannon5459]

where did you get your centre storage?

[@QuasiMotard]

That center storage is an auxiliary fuel tank. It's one of only two "Neil tanks" in existence! I have one on my Cub, and a friend of mine, Adrian (in the background of this video), has the other one. Our buddy, Neil, custom fabricated those tanks and mounting cradles for us before we left on our 10K-mile cross-country trip for the 2021 Scooter Cannonball Run: kzbin.info/aero/PLLXxDh3JumLnSK37lF4AcrF28frAIfLfA They hold about 1.3 gallons of fuel, but they aren't plumbed into the main fuel supply. The flat metal tops of these tanks worked perfectly to hold hydration bladders or tank bags. We used them as emergency fuel supplies and as transfer tanks during our extended road trip. You can see it in action here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIrNnolte9Z_ha8 . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM