SUPERCUB: Kitaco 15T front sprocket upgrade

Today is a retake on the 15T front sprocket upgrade. I started this project last week, but the larger sprocket REQUIRES a thinner chain guide plate! I detail the entire testing procedure for the 14T and 15T benchmarks, as well as the wrenching required for this upgrade. You can skip to the bottom for the clickable time indexes to save time, or watch through the video for the entire process.
I purchased the Kitaco 15T and 16T front sprockets from Webike in Japan a few weeks ago. They were out of stock on the thinner guide plates, so I took a chance on whether or not I would need it for the 15T upgrade. I found out IMMEDIATELY that it is a necessary item, so DON'T SKIP THIS PIECE if you plan to do a 15T or 16T upgrade on your Super Cub! Here are the product pages for reference:
Kitaco 15T sprocket: japan.webike.net/products/182...
Kitaco 16T sprocket: japan.webike.net/products/370...
Kitaco Wide Chain Guide Plate: japan.webike.net/products/240...
The upgrade is simple, and it only requires that you loosen your rear axle to slide the rear wheel forward and take the front countershaft sprocket and cover off of the bike. The increased sprocket diameter requires the use of the thinner guide plate and a bit more slack on the drive chain to fit. The process is a bit tedious, but not difficult at all (assuming that you have the tools). The list of tools required are below:
- 5mm Allen/hex key wrench
- 10mm socket or box/open-end wrench for shift lever/yoke
- 14mm and 19mm open-end wrenches (or sockets) for the rear axle
- 3/8" torque wrench
- digital caliper or another measuring tool (e.g. tape measure, ruler, string) for rear axle alignment
I also recommend the Motion Pro 08-0048 chain alignment tool: amzn.to/3wTSUmT
The speedometer deviation is +2-3 mph now instead of -2 mph before, so this is a ~4-5 mph difference in indicated speed. That will affect the speedometer and perceived fuel economy without the help of a "speedo healer" like the Kitaco Speed Pulse Conversion Unit: japan.webike.net/products/239...
I have ridden about 250 miles since this upgrade, and the motor definitely "feels" calmer. The efficiency statistics are still TBD. My last fill-up was good (136.5 mpg, which is better than my average of ~130 over the same route), especially considering the speedometer discrepancy of 2-3 mph (would make the adjusted value as ~147.5 mpg!). These numbers aren't accurate, of course, but I will monitor them and update my Fuelly stats as I progress: www.fuelly.com/driver/quasimo...
Time indexes:
0:00 : Background for the baseline test and re-testing after the upgrade
2:05 : Weigh-in for the testing
2:55 : Beginning of initial base-line ride w/ factory gearing (14T front sprocket)
5:30 : State Troopers patrolling this route, speeders in the Houston area are getting out of control
5:55 : OEM speedometer deviation is ~2 mph optimistic vs GPS
6:20 : First full-throttle baseline test from 0-60 mph, the result was ~20 seconds
8:10 : Reverse run for first baseline test, slightly lower top speed at ~56 mph
9:35 : More A-hole Houston drivers in trucks... blowing stop signs into the right-of-way
9:45 : Thoughts about the Asahi short windscreen's aerodynamic performance, still no Givi screen from Italy
11:00 : Starting the 15T front sprocket upgrade under a heat advisory... 115°F heat index today!
18:20 : Purchase the thinner guide plate as a precaution!
20:00 : Installing the guide plate and sprocket cover is tricky
23:55 : Setting the rear axle spacers and chain tension
24:52 : Aligning the rear axle is a little tedious (Motion Pro 08-0048 chain alignment tool is a great cheat)
30:52 : Reinstalling the top chain cover
32:20 : Reinstalling the shift yoke and a brief discussion about the shifter angle
33:45 : Heading back out for the first ride with the 15T front sprocket!
34:30 : Hopes and intentions, just want to calm the motor at ~55 mph cruising speeds
38:35 : Second acceleration run and top speed test results
41:30 : Roll-on performance from 50 mph is slower now
42:47 : The motor "feels" calmer now, longer gears might be more useful for in-town riding
--
QM
[e-mail]
#honda #supercub #kitaco
2019 honda super cub c125a

[@4711StGermain]

Good video. Hondas look so well made , with very good quality panels and parts. Classy bike!

[@grantdeisig1360]

Your very thorough with your test. Great job! Enjoyed watching the outcome.

[@QuasiMotard]

Thx for the feedback! These tests are somewhat long and hard to post because most people have a 3-5 minute attention span (myself included). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@mustard1965]

Great video, love the detail you put into these. Many thanks

[@joplin777]

Great videos. I was researching videos of the new CT125 and came across yours. You answered a lot of my performance questions and the 15T sprocket issue! ScooterAddict

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback, and I'm glad that the videos helped! I have left the 15T on my Cub and I think it's a worthwhile upgrade. The lower 3 gears pull longer and are more useful around town, and the highway fuel economy has improved vs a stock 14T Cub. I just completed a 7-day, 2000-mile trip on my Cub with another local Cub owner, and my bike was consistently achieving ~15% better fuel economy than his bike (completely stock). I'll be editing and posting that video series soon. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@n8dgr887]

QuasiMotard Curious what the MPG is between the 14 and 15 tooth.

[@chasedeal5631]

Nice video! So, you've proven there's a reason the engineers at Honda get paid more than the shade-tree bubbas at Kitako.

[@GasWorksISO]

I like these kind of comparison videos. I’ve got my bone stock Honda Monkey up to 67mph once and it still had not hit rev limiter. My grom, before I swapped to a 14t front sprocket topped out at 65mph. With the 14t, it struggles to get to 60, but it makes it a more fun, sportier around town ride.

[@MrDGS999]

Just subscribed after being glued to the Cub, think I'm going to get the new grey colour for 2020, hope the colour comes to the UK. Excellently filmed and explained install. Thanks

[@QuasiMotard]

Thx for the sub and the feedback! I've been covered up with work for the past couple of months, so I haven't posted anything lately. I'll be back out riding and motocamping soon, so stay tuned! 😉👍 --QM

[@ripmax333]

So incredibly easy to work on these cubs.

[@ivankuljismusic8895]

LOVE LOVE LOVE ❤️ YOUR PASSION IS INFECTIOUS___ Bought a Jan 2019 rego C125 in Blue on Blue with 595kms yesterday____ it arrives in only a few weeks! Ordering a rear RED Honda seat, accessory pegs (Chrome frame ) to bolt without mods, so l can't wait 2PLAY!!!!! :)

[@QuasiMotard]

Thx for the feedback, and congrats on your new Cub! If you are searching for a rear rack or luggage options, you might be interested my video on that topic here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmnHf4pupap7p8U . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@leftymadrid]

Tell ya what, this is great visual information and you explaining everything. What a wonderful idea, to do this is a perfect upgrade! Keeping the engine from reeving up too much.

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback and for watching! 😉👍 --QM

[@urbanfireblade]

I love these kinda videos, i've dome them for my Grom too, it's fair to say Honda has chosen the best gearing to get the most out the engine, then you can decide if you favour economy or performance in your gearing choice higher or lower.

[@onanysundrymule3144]

Good empirical comparison, Sir.

[@user-hb8be5wb4q]

Maybe I’m an ole guy 79 y/0 but I hate mud and road scourge. I’d put a “mud guard” on the front and rear fender for “road slop” protection. There are some small efficient flaps that match the beauty of the Cubs eloquences. I really, really like that windscreen!

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

I would really like to see those little mud guards. I remember older bikes and I think even some of the old Super Cubs had a little rubber mud flaps. extension on the fenders. Best wishes and happy trails.

[@BrownPeterAnthony]

thanks for all the information.

[@QuasiMotard]

Glad to help! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@earlsmithson4749]

New sub, great diy and test results.

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback and the sub! I wasn't overly pleased with the results after my initial testing, but that changed after a few days of riding. I'm still running the 15T front sprocket after 15K miles of commuting and touring. I have observed a 12-15% increase in fuel efficiency vs a Cub with the 14T sprocket under identical conditions. When I tour withy buddy, Adrian, my Cub consistently returns higher fuel mileage than his original 14T gearing... sometimes as much as 25% difference in range between the two. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@zrkn1]

I think it may be the outdoor temp. Try it in the morning.

[@skipper1313]

Did the sprocket change affect the ABS any? Are you likely to keep the 14T for the possible Cannonball?

[@QuasiMotard]

There is no effect on the ABS... that is front wheel only. I'm still on the fence regarding the decision to keep the 15T or revert to the 14T. I don't plan on "competing" in the SCBR 2020... rather, I will be a tourist class just to participate. The Super Cub doesn't have a good enough handicap to be really competitive in the event, so I won't even try. I just want to participate in the cross-country journey with like minded maniacs! If my son and I take Cub's for the adventure, then it'll be a 8000+ mile journey for us... that'll be EPIC... definitely one to fill some space in his memory bank of experiences with his "old man"! --QM

[@JerryR390]

Hi, to archive what you want you should go 15 and a +1 in the rear.

[@blackbird69xxx]

Would the engine revs still be lower than the standard from sprocket ?

[@jebinc9698]

Been watching your SC videos and was wondering if you found an upgraded oil pump for the "pre-oil filter 2022+ models"? I see Kitaco makes one for the newer 125s, but couldn't find anything for the 2019-2021 models. Thanks in advance for the assist!

[@jackvoss175]

To hold the plate in place, some cup grease on it, and the two mounting screws in, might hold the plate in place while holding that chain cover casting to screw in the two mounting bolts. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying

[@j.fed_rr]

Nice! I‘ll do it on my C125 too. I‘ve changed camshaft and ecu mapping on mine. Maybe that helps getting to 60mph.

[@QuasiMotard]

I've been very pleased with the 15T upgrade on my Cub over the past couple of years. I ran this gearing during the 10K-mile Scooter Cannonball Run in July 2021, and it worked very well overall. The fuel economy increased about 10-15% over the stock gearing, and the top speed is nearly the same under most circumstances (e.g., flat, level road, no headwinds); however, my top speed has increased to 71-72 MPH under ideal conditions (e.g,. disturbed airflow in front of the bike while traveling with traffic). If you don't mind me asking... what did you change on your Cub for the camshaft and ECU? I have a DynoJet PowerVision3 for my bike, but I'm running a nearly-stock map right now. I'm planning to install a full big-bore kit (Kitaco NEO 181cc 2-valve, ECU, intake, exhaust, etc) on it before the 2023 Scooter Cannonball Run. If I decide to cheap-out on the upgrade, then I might just install the high-compression piston kit along with a camshaft and upgraded valves... we'll see. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@markianclark9645]

Interesting video..discovering not to change to non standard sprockets..maintenance on super cub in super hot Texas..I'm used to working on more freezing cold bikes in London..meanwhile i'll stick with my decade old Honda anf 125 innova rusted by 75 thousand miles in all weathers..drips oil but doesn't smoke or burn any..might get me a Honda Wave 110i when covid-19 has passed..still retains the kickstarter too..I don't see one here..cub looks good though..

[@QuasiMotard]

Greetings from the USA, and thx for the feedback! I have become accustomed to the 15T front sprocket now, and I don't think that I'll change back to the 14T. The high-speed characteristics have changed now, and it's possible to achieve over 71 mph under the right conditions (kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGqvZ3uhZdCCb5I)... it just doesn't like fighting headwinds or hills. If I drop down to 3rd gear, then it will happily pull to redline, which is around 65 mph. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@beachgirl9823]

Hey Quasi, does that windscreen make any difference? I’m only 5’ tall so if you find a difference I would def see a difference with the wind. Thanks

[@QuasiMotard]

I'm 5'6", and the Asahi Short Visor ( japan.webike.net/products/23952404.html ) does improve airflow around my torso, but it doesn't do anything for my shoulders or helmet. I definitely recommend it for the aesthetics and the reduction in chest pressure above 45 MPH... it makes longer trips much more enjoyable. I toured 10K miles around the USA in July 2021 for the Scooter Cannonball Run with this windscreen. If you're looking for more protection for long rides or touring, then I would suggest the PUIG Traffic 3490W windscreen ( amzn.to/3aUdyv0 ) for better coverage. Cheers, and good luck shopping! 😉👍

[@MM-oq5bl]

Chain tensioning. the diameter and position of the bung hole in the lower chainguard, isn't that the diameter an indicator for the correct play in the chain? You have to spin the wheel to seek for the tightest position of the chain there will always be a "tight position on a used chain"

[@steverolfeca]

Just a thought- if the chain was still that hot after riding, perhaps you had it a little too tight, and/or slightly misaligned? Sprockets aren’t always perfectly round, so it’s best to check the chain slack at several points after rotating the back wheel. Also, the length of the adjuster bolts is not an accurate indicator for wheel alignment. A piece of string wrapped around the front and rear wheels is a better guide for sighting your alignment. A tight chain can cost you speed and fuel economy, even if it’s not bad enough to fry your chain and bearings...

[@QuasiMotard]

The chain was slacked enough (1.0-1.5" per the factory manual/spec). The chain wasn't too hot, but the countershaft sprocket certainly was. The CS sprocket will heat-soak from the motor quickly... these little air-cooled mills will warm up even under moderate throttle conditions. I have an oil temp sensor in the oil fill hole now, and it always seems to show decent running temperatures (under 200F). Even then... a 200F metal part is hard to handle with bare hands for more than a few seconds! 😉 --QM

[@winkyfab2860]

What performance mods have you done to your super cub? What software and hardware do you use to do the GPS speed overlay on your videos. Thanks.

[@QuasiMotard]

My Super Cub is mechanically stock in this video with only add-on accessories (e.g., windscreen, bar-end mirrors, etc). In my later videos for the Scooter Cannonball Run (SCBR), we changed our exhausts to the SP-Takegawa P-Shooter slip-on exhausts to give clearance for our rear trailer mounts ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/omOxaGaejq-kn6M ). As a part of that process, I flashed the factory ECU with a slightly modified fuel map to enrich the mixture by approximately 3-5% to compensate for the lack of back-pressure (new muffler deleted the catalytic converter). That wasn't much of an upgrade in terms of performance, and the SP-T exhaust sounded HORRIBLE, so I removed it ASAP when I completed the SCBR ride. The gauge data is recorded by the GoPro Hero7 Black camera and my Garmin GPS. My early videos with the round gauge in the lower-left were created with GoPro Quik software. It was very buggy and limited in terms of gauge display, so I upgraded my software solution for newer videos beginning with my SCBR video series. The newer software that i use is called GoPro Telemetry Extractor ( goprotelemetryextractor.com/ ). It will work with any GPS data streams from the GoPro's video files or other devices (e.g., Garmin, DJI, etc). I use TE to combine my GoPro data and also the GPX files from my Garmin Zumo GPS to achieve better accuracy for some of my videos. The gauges and layouts are completely customizable, so that creates more work... but the results are worth the effort. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@jima6044]

You have a black plastic extension fitted to your throttle grip, what is its purpose please?

[@QuasiMotard]

That is the Go Cruise throttle lock (cruise control): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TIEATVY . It acts as a throttle stop that you press down against your brake lever to hold the throttle in position. It's not too tight, so you can manually roll the throttle off/down when you want to decelerate. It's great for reducing hand fatigue... you can remove your hand from the throttle completely instead of the "cramp buster" types that you must rest your palm or wrist on top of to maintain throttle. Cheers! --QM

[@congerscott6064]

Good video, you answered my question, thank you, i wonder if that 15 tooth sprocket would make any difference on the new honda grom 5 speed ? 👍.

[@QuasiMotard]

Sprocket changes will work on any chain-driven machine, so the new 5-speed Grom will be a similar affair. There will always be a trade-off in acceleration or top speed. The trick is to change your engine speed to suit the intended riding style without pushing the engine too far out of its peak power or torque range for the intended operating speeds. You can play with the gear ratios on the Gearing Commander website ( www.gearingcommander.com/ ) to see how it affects engine RPM, road speed in each gear, chain-to-sprocket contact points, etc. Of course, you need to know the transmission gear ratios, final drive ratio, and a few other items to get started. It's also beneficial to have a dyno chart of the engine performance to know where the power and torque peaks are across the engine RPM range. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@congerscott6064]

@@QuasiMotard WOW ! That's a whole lot of information lol, i think im just going to go with a bigger bike, im considering a yamaha tw200, good top speed for city or off road riding, plenty of accessories available to upgrade or mod, the only thing i don't like is the price tag but it is what it is, i guess if you want it bad enough you'll pay it, thanks for the information 👍🏆.

[@AndrewDasilvaPLT]

You do talk a lot but it is never off-topic! Thanks for the video! Would a smaller rear gear benefit this at all?

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback! I may put the 14T back on the front and then drop -2 or -3 teeth from the rear as a test to see how the bike feels. If I dropped teeth in the rear with the 15T front, then the resulting ratio would be too "tall"... there wouldn't be enough low-end torque and 4th gear would probably be useless. 👍 --QM

[@curtgottler9961]

When you move the rear tire back to adjust the chain, does that affect the drum brake movement in any way?

[@QuasiMotard]

Yes, the rear brake free-play should be checked and adjusted whenever the rear axle is moved. It's a quick process... just a half turn or two on the adjuster nut will usually do the trick. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@Watnuweer]

Yes nice info QuasiMotard, love your thoughts. But why not a tooth less on the back? Should that be a compromise? I have bought myself a second hand with 1056 miles on the clock. It will be a learning curve for some time. But I definitely like it. It is build for relax driving.

[@QuasiMotard]

Howdy, Peter, and congrats on your new-to-you Super Cub! That's a good point about changing the rear sprocket for a better compromise. However, my primary goal with this 15T upgrade was to lower engine RPM at cruising speeds for my 10K-mile Scooter Cannonball Run trip. Changing the front sprocket is also quicker and less invasive than the rear sprocket... no need to remove the wheel, sprocket carrier (cush drive), multiple bolts, etc. The front sprocket swap is a 10-minute chore if all of the tools are in place and you're familiar with the process. I've been riding my Cub with the 15T front sprocket for 2+ years now, and I think it's a worthwhile upgrade in terms of usability and efficiency. The lower 3 gears pull longer and are more useful in normal riding conditions. 4th gear is more of an overdrive for cruising. The second benefit is that my Cub runs about 10-15% more efficiently with the 15T sprocket than the original 14T due to the lower engine RPM's. My buddy, Adrian, has an identical Cub with the factory ratio (14/36), and his Cub's range is consistently about 15 miles less per tank than my Cub. Top speeds for both bikes are still very similar because they are drag-limited instead of gear/RPM limitations (never reach the rev-limiter in top gear). My Cub can consistently pull 71-72 MPH on flat roads without headwinds, where Adrian's Cub usually tops out around 68-69 MPH (all GPS-verified speeds, not indicated speed). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@AnonymousYoutuber69]

Would changing the rear sprocket give the same speedometer discrepancy as changing the first?

[@shinosg-wiz4619]

Is there any aftermarket product like sprocket that can make it go wheelie in 1st gear?

[@johnfranklin685]

Adding one tooth to the front is equal to losing three in the back sprocket. If there is a rear sprocket featuring one tooth less it may culminate in a sweet spot savoring enough torque to reach your desired objective.

[@QuasiMotard]

Agreed! The goal of this change was to reduce engine RPM's at cruising speeds for the Scooter Cannonball Run trip that I was planning. The front sprocket is much easier to swap than the rear (no need to pull the rear wheel, etc), and the resulting difference in chain length can be adjusted at the rear axle. The Super Cub only has 8.5HP, so it can only do a certain amount of work. It's always a trade-off when changing the final drive ratios and moving the engine's power/torque peaks to different wheel speeds. The net result of this +1T change worked very well for me, and I'm still running it today. The reduced engine RPM's has netted a 10-15% increase in fuel economy over the last 14K miles. My Super Cub averaged 109 MPG during my 10K mile trip around the USA... while pulling a trailer behind me! Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@andymaurice7693]

I just acquired my 2021 Super Cub.. I have the same vibration above 40... So what do you recommend???..maybe engine mounts?

[@QuasiMotard]

I wouldn't worry too much about the vibrations and harmonics on the Super Cub. It's a bit buzzy at certain speeds/RPM's, but that doesn't seem to affect the reliability or longevity of the machine. I installed a set of Grip Puppies foam overgrips ( amzn.to/3s6Tg5g ) on my Cub to tame the handlebar vibrations a bit. They aren't a magic bullet to cure all of the vibrations, but they do seem to help a bit. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@jackvoss175]

I had to reindex my shift lever 1 spline counterclockwise too. Frankly, the shift lever was better designed 60 years ago on the original 50cc model.

[@QuasiMotard]

Agreed! I remember riding the Honda Passport back in the 80's, and I never had a problem with the heel/toe shifter arrangement on that bike. The newer shift lever just didn't work for me without adjusting the angle. --QM

[@robedmunds7163]

Good test, but one tooth on the countershaft sprocket is a big jump for a little engine. Dropping two reeth on the back sprocket would be a better bet.

[@QuasiMotard]

Yep, but the front sprocket is an easier hack... less work needed to make the change. 😉 The Super Cub doesn't have much power to work with, so it's going to be a trade-off somewhere... either acceleration or top speed. I wanted to play with the front sprocket first to see if it wouldn't make too much of an impact on the top-end. If I really need the 60+ mph top speed, then I'll have to revert to the 14T front and/or change the rear sprocket. I use GearingCommander (www.gearingcommander.com/) to play with ratios, engine RPM's, and to verify the link contact points (number of times each link hits each tooth, wear-leveling, etc). If anyone is interested in playing with the gear ratios, the C125A doesn't have a database entry in GC yet, but you can use the following settings: - Go to www.gearingcommander.com/ - Click on "Select bike brand" and select "Honda", - Click on "Select model" and select "Wave/Innova", - Click on "Select version/year" and select "125S '03-'08" - Chane the Primary Drive Ratio to "3.363" - Change the rear tire size to 80/90-17 in all three rows - Change the Max RPM to "9200" - Change the Final Drive Ratio to "14/36" for the "Stock" column - Change the Chain Links to "106" You can find a screenshot of these settings in my Google Drive folder for reference: drive.google.com/open?id=1doLjJfOwdMlsbqNycIw5cayg9EI9e7j6 -- QM

[@darvaish4552]

thanks for your videos. i enjoyed them so much that i went and bought a cub. and thanks for making me spend hahahah good man. i would do the oil changes at small intervals in the begining as you suggested and thats what i believe in as well. i guess you did said to use fully non synthetic for this purpose? is my memory serving me right? please help

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback, and congrats on your new Cub! I'm not a good financial influence on most people when it comes to motorcycles... I tend to buy everything that interests me! 🤣 For the early oil changes, it's best not to use fully-synthetic oils during the break-in period because they inhibit ring and valve sealing. It's better to have a slight amount of friction to help seat the reciprocating parts at first until they get "bedded-in" and polish down the microscopic machining grooves on those parts. After break-in, then I switch to full synthetic oils in all of my machines. I also watch for any oil consumption, leaking, or "blow-by". Synthetics tend to be a bit thinner than petro-based oils, so they can seep through areas that traditional oils don't. If I notice any leakage or consumption, then I'll go up one weight (e.g. from 10W-30 to 10W-40) to see if the problem disappears. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@MM-oq5bl]

The clutch plates run in the engine oil, it is important to use the correct oil. You used to be able to buy oil with graphite additive, you do not see that in the shops today. Graphite oil used to permanently impregnate the clutch plates with the graphite causing the clutch to slip, new plates required!

[@blackbird69xxx]

@@MM-oq5bl JASO MA: Oils for motorcycles with a wet clutch. These oils deliver the needed friction performance to prevent the clutch from slipping and are ..

[@shane29431]

Now that you've had the 15T sprocket for a good long time, would you do it again? Or would you leave it stock?

[@QuasiMotard]

LOVE it! I would definitely do it again. The lower 3 gears pull better and 4th is more of an overdrive. The fuel economy jumped up about 15% overall. The only drawback is the speedometer discrepancy... minor issue, though. 😉👍 --QM

[@i-rok1117]

@@QuasiMotard back sprocket standard sprocket or u already change the size? may i know the size? my weight is 68kg. now my standard big sprocket front is 14T and back is 37T

[@arcboutant]

Would be interesting to know what the rev difference is between sprockets.

[@tosh2012]

Maybe with an exhaust or other performance mods it would pull up where you want it? Thanks for doing this test.

[@QuasiMotard]

I'm sure that adding intake, exhaust, and ECU mods would let the motor breathe better and make a bit more power. Unfortunately, that would void the warranty, so I'll hold off for now. I wasn't really trying to make the bike faster with this mod... it was just to calm the motor down a bit at 50-55 mph. I've become accustomed to the new shift points and "personality" of the bike with this 15T sprocket, so I've left it on there. Since this was filmed, I have achieved a top speed of 72 mph under the right conditions on several occasions (kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGqvZ3uhZdCCb5I , and kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWilhXh-jbyZrrc), and it can usually cruise comfortably at 55 without straining too much. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@blackbird69xxx]

@@QuasiMotard So would the 15t sprocket be ok if i was going long distance up and down ?

[@QuasiMotard]

@@blackbird69xxx I think the 15T is a worthwhile modification to calm the motor down just a bit at higher speeds. I've been running my Cub that way for about a year and a few thousand miles now... several road trips of 300-400 miles and it seems comfortable to me. Sometimes if I'm climbing hills or fighting a headwind, then I'll have to downshift to 3rd gear to gain/maintain speed. The new gearing lets you reach ~65 mph in 3rd gear if you're willing to wring the motor out and hit the rev-limiter. If you live in a very hilly area, then you probably want to keep the original 14T or maybe even add 1-2 teeth on the rear to give a bit more climbing power (that would sacrifice top speed, though). 👍 --QM

[@matecocido73]

Hello there!! I have done the same with my Honda asuper cub and when it exceeds 40 km / h the ABS light comes on and I do not understand why !? (the light is blinking) and if I turned it off and then I turn it on again, it stops doing it, any idea what could happen? Thank you

[@QuasiMotard]

It sounds like your speed sensor from the transmission isn't working properly. Another possibility is that the front brake could be dragging, or the ABS sensor ring (or wire) is damaged. We had a Super Cub rider on the Scooter Cannonball Run with a similar issue, and it was diagnosed as a dragging front brake. Good luck resolving the problem! 👍 --QM

[@matecocido73]

@@QuasiMotard Hi! We have replaced the pinion at the Honda technical service with one of 15 like you and the problem solved !! it was that! the 16-year-old doesn't like the bike! ha ha!

[@marcbiff2192]

I have just changed the chain and sprocket on my supercub and noticed the front sprocket seems to have a lot of lateral play in the front sprocket,did you have that on yours?

[@QuasiMotard]

I noticed that the sprocket has a slight amount of play or chatter on the countershaft, but it hasn't increased over time. The locking collar and two bolts keep the sprocket located securely. If the play is excessive, then it might eventually wear on the inner splines of the sprocket and cause the chain to be noisy or slack on deceleration; the countershaft itself is hardened, so wear on its splines should be minimal. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@michaelj.kastner5165]

The gear-shifter is actually a clutch also, press and hold down either direction and you can rev match, then release the shifter for seamless shifts,. Different then any other motorcycle i have ever ridden. I find the bike viby also, my Monkey has 0 vibrations, this thing is excessively viby. Hoot to ride tho

[@QuasiMotard]

Agreed! Re-learning the motor memory for the foot/ankle motion was the hard part after riding "normal" bikes for 40+ years. You can't stab the shift lever quickly like traditional bikes... it requires a slow, deliberate motion and different throttle timing to operate it smoothly. I'm accustomed to it now, but there was definitely a learning curve. I haven't ridden the Monkey yet to compare the personalities, but the Cub is a bit buzzy at high RPM's. I added foam grip covers to my bike to calm down the vibes... it seems to help a little bit. --QM

[@stephenprofilet204]

What is the black lever on the throttle? Is it something you made?

[@QuasiMotard]

Howdy, Stephen! That is the GoCruise throttle lock (cruise control): amzn.to/2VUkEsb . It just clips onto the throttle grip and you press it down against the brake lever hold your throttle at any position you need. They are cheap, reliable, and extremely convenient for long road trips. These will allow you to completely remove your hand from the throttle if needed, so they are better than the "cramp buster" style that require your palm to hold the throttle in position. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@Shadseaweed]

Ok im sorry I missed the point in what changing the sprocket will do?

[@QuasiMotard]

My intention for the sprocket change was to lower the 55 mph cruising rev's of the motor about 500 RPM. I was planning to ride the Cub about 9000 miles around the country this summer for the 2020 Scooter Cannonball Run (probably cancelled now due to COVID-19), so the lower RPM's might help with the long highway runs. The 15T sprocket succeeded in lowering the RPM and it also made the lower 3 gears more usable (not so short). However, the 4th gear ratio is a bit too steep to allow the motor to pull through 60 mph as easily as it did before the change. However, under better road conditions (e.g. no headwind or road inclines) the Cub's top speed is now 71-72 mph as seen here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGqvZ3uhZdCCb5I. I'm accustomed to the new shift points and the "calmer" motor now, so I've left the 15T sprocket on the bike. 👍 --QM

[@rickywojcik2326]

I wonder if there's a 1 tooth smaller rear sprocket available...That would probably be a smaller change in gearing.

[@QuasiMotard]

Rear sprockets are available with variable tooth sizes (up or down). I might eventually try dropping 2 teeth in the rear and go back to the 14T front to see how that performs. I left the 15T front sprocket on the bike, and I've ridden another 4K+ miles with it so far... it seems to perform well enough, and my fuel efficiency has jumped up about 10-15% compared to the standard gearing. I've had some trouble climbing hills compared to the 14T, so I end up shifting down to 3rd gear more frequently. You might be interested in the "Super Cubs in the Ozarks" series, particularly this episode where we discussed the odometer and fuel economy issue vs Adrian's all-stock Cub: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3yUhoqPaqmdbJI . Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@cujoedaman]

Kinda curious about an update as I'm getting ready to do this same mod. Did you ever get a speedo healer to fix the speedometer being off? How is the acceleration in wind with the new sprocket? And speaking of, is there a big, noticeable difference in acceleration, like does it feel like it's just chugging along or does it still allow the bike to get up to speed with no problem?

[@QuasiMotard]

I left this 15T front sprocket on my Super Cub after this upgrade and never looked back. It has been a fantastic upgrade for me over the past 15K+ miles. I live in Houston, TX, so it's relatively flat down here at sea level. My Cub struggles a bit pulling that taller ratio up long inclines, but it's never a real problem... I just drop to a lower gear and keep pulling. The speedometer discrepancy is minimal at only 2-3 MPH pessimistic, so I don't even think about it anymore. I rode this Cub 10K miles around the USA during the 2021 Scooter Cannonball Run while pulling an 85-pound single-wheel trailer behind it. My buddy, Adrian, had an identical Cub and trailer combo, but his Cub ran with the original 14T front sprocket. My Cub runs 10-15% more efficiently than his Cub because of the lower engine RPM at cruising speeds. Those numbers were consistent throughout our month-long trip around the USA. My Cub averaged 109.1 MPG over 10K miles while running wide-open throttle for a month straight. Adrian's Cub averaged only ~89 MPG over the exact same route (we ran together for the entire trip). See the end of this video for the statistics: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2TLmWWwja2KfdE Sometimes his bike could pull slightly better uphill when my bike got stuck between 2-3 or 3-4 at speeds where my engine would bog down and his wouldn't (crossing the Rocky Mountains and the Continental Divide TWICE was painful 🤣). Occasionally, my bike would pull longer or harder uphill when he couldn't find a good ratio because he would bounce off of the rev-limiter at the top of 2nd or 3rd gear. It's the same amount of power working on different speed curves. If you live in hilly terrain or at high altitudes, then the original 14T (or even a 13T) front sprocket might be a better option. Good luck with your upgrade, and let us know how it works for you. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@cujoedaman]

@@QuasiMotard Yeah, most of our roads are flat too, but sometimes driving into the wind can be a struggle for the poor Cub, even a light 20mph head wind will keep me full throttle and just barely hitting 45mph. Thankfully I'm not planning on towing a trailer behind me. I was only curious about the speedo correction because there was either a video or a thread on that one Cub forum that said it'll set off whatever the equivalent of a car's check engine light and disable the ABS. I can't find any info to back up that claim, though.

[@QuasiMotard]

@cujoedaman I've heard similar comments about the ABS light, but I've never experienced it, and haven't seen any proof. So, that's a "cry wolf" issue, IMO. 😉

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

Excellent how to video. Sadly the problem with shipping out of Italy is, it is the world's poorest developed country. Seriously. It is tragic. Anyways. Catching up on some of your good stuff while in break at work. Thank you. Edward Cabello, Irvine California.

[@123edwardzpad]

I am curious if the sprocket that you removed would be a good upgrade to the Trail Cub for cannon ball run? And is it too much of a hassle to contact Givi and have them mail you a new/proper set of windshield brackets? And thank you again, for the great content creation. 🇺🇸

[@QuasiMotard]

No, unfortunately the Super Cub and CT125 use different pitch chains. The SC uses a 420 chain and sprockets, and the CT uses 428. I might end up converting my SC to 428 eventually because the 420 chains are relatively weak and require a lot of adjustments due to wear and stretch. 428-520 chains are much more durable and would last almost indefinitely on a low-power bike like the SC. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@123edwardzpad]

@@QuasiMotard Thank you, Quasi. You are a wealth of knowledge and very generous in sharing. Happy Friday to you. 🛵 🇺🇸

[@ivankuljismusic8895]

Is the screen FACTORY? Does it straight bolt-on and do you recommend it? It's part of my mods dream list/lust!!!! :)

[@QuasiMotard]

No, Honda doesn't make an accessory screen for the Cub (as far as I know). That screen is the Asahi Short Visor (japan.webike.net/products/23952404.html), and it bolts right onto the bike without any problems. You can watch my install videos for it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hV6TZ6xvjql_m8U , and here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWeZYqV7pptpjsk . It comes with the mirror adapter brackets and spacers to reuse the OEM mirrors. I hated the OEM mirrors on my bike (just a useless view of my arms/elbows), so I replaced those with CRG LaneSplitter bar-end mirrors instead: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYSUp6yEotuto8k . The mirror change made my Asahi screen mounting a bit different, but everything fits and interchanges just fine. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@ivankuljismusic8895]

@@QuasiMotard Too KOOL! Thanks heaps!

[@matsgustavsson665]

It's time to change the driveline (both sprockets and chain) Instead of getting the 15T sprocket and the guide Im thinking about getting a 33T rear sprocket. Opinions?

[@QuasiMotard]

Howdy, Mats! The typical rule is that +1 tooth in front equals -3 teeth in the rear. That means your chain will need to be shortened accordingly, or you'll run out of adjustment in your swingarm/axle adjusters. If you're interested in playing with sprocket ratios, then you might want to check out GearingCommander. The Honda Super Cub and CT125 don't have entries in the database yet, but you can start off with the Honda Wave/Innova or Dash 125 as a baseline and then modify the default settings as below: - Go to www.gearingcommander.com/ - Click on "Select bike brand" and select "328 - Honda", - Click on "Select model" and choose "Dash", - Click on "Select version/year" and choose "125 '18-19", - Click on the "Load Bike Gearing" button, - Chane the Primary Drive Ratio to "3.363" (use 3.428 for 2022 Honda Super Cub C125) - Change the Max RPM to "9200" - Change the Final Drive Ratio to "14/36" for the "Stock" column You can find a screenshot of these settings in my Google Drive folder here: drive.google.com/file/d/1VU4bJvL2RipYq0Zioj2gwkTEZUC2F9bB/view?usp=sharing . Keep in mind that these values are for the 2019-2021 C125A. Honda revised the primary drive ratio on the 2022 C125 to "3.428", and other mini-motos using this same engine (e.g,. Grom, Monkey, DAX) will have different gear ratios for their 5-speed transmissions. Cheers, and good luck with your modifications! 😉👍 --QM

[@wilhughesphoto]

So my dumbass stripped the left side bolt on the swing arm where the suspension attaches at the lower end. Any chance you can look at your service manual and see if that’s just a double threaded pin the goes into the swing arm or will I have to replace the entire swingarm? :(

[@QuasiMotard]

Man, that sucks! Drop me an email at [e-mail] and I'll reply back to you with a few scanned pages of the service manual. You can also look at the expanded diagrams of the swingarm here: www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/hon/5c2fcaa087a8660b987936d6/swingarm-chain-case to see the details. The lower shock mounting bolt is a welded-in pin on the swingarm tab. You could potentially grind off the existing bolt, drill out the mounting boss, and then replace it with a similar bolt from the back side... but that might be more trouble than replacing the swingarm for about $99.19 (www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/p/honda/52200-k0g-900zb/swingarm-sub-assy-rr-pb415p-pearl-niltava-blue). Have you tried to rethread the mounting bolt with a die, or is it too mangled to repair? --QM

[@conmanumber1]

Can u get access to 98 octane fuel?. here in N.Z our regular is 91 octane, 96 and 98 octane in B.P Ultimate as a premium. The higher the octane the better the engine runs and cooler too.

[@QuasiMotard]

Our fuel ratings here in the USA are not based on octane ratings; instead our numbering scheme is the AKI (anti-knock index) which is RON+MON/2 (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating). An interesting conversion chart for EURO RON/octant to US AKI can be found here: www.pencilgeek.org/2009/05/octane-rating-conversions.html . Our fuel grades are about 4-5 numerical points lower than the equivalent EU octane ratings because of the different averaging standard used. Until about 15 years ago, we had many fuel stations in Texas that carried "super-premium" 101-103 (105-107 octane), but all of those high-grade fuels disappeared when the ethanol blending started. Now, it is very difficult to find ethanol-free (pure gasoline) fuels anywhere in Texas. 👍 --QM

[@conmanumber1]

@@QuasiMotard I service Kawasaki mules etc. The trick to avoid carbie problems is to drain the float bowl 3 times a year. We have not seen a 250 yet as the young riders will go straight onto the Kawasaki ninja 250 or klr 250 which is the same engine here and great value for a first serious bike. Last year at a auction there was 6 ninja 250's sold for a song all written off due to the plastics destroyed but engines in great nick. I asked why all buggered at such a near new condition. Response was apparantly the high school boys thought they were a great price but underestimated the grunt hence loosing control of them smearing them over the road. Year those Keeways are purchased in China in bulk for insanely low prices.

[@mohd130080]

good job

[@roberthastings6270]

Windshield looks Great! Where does the wind hit you?

[@QuasiMotard]

It seems that the wind blast terminates around my shoulders, so it's NOT hitting my helmet... which is a good thing. I think that this small screen is doing a good job at directing the majority of the airflow around the torso, but it's certainly not a touring screen. I plan to keep an open mind and not make any opinions until I have a few more miles behind it. I'm really waiting for my Givi 1168A screen to magically arrive from Italy... but I'm not holding my breath. 😉 After I have another screen for comparison, then I'll have more information to make an informed opinion. 👍 --QM

[@daveevans2261]

Great video thanks for showing us, I don't think you will improve much on Honda's engineers, as they try to get the best for all types of riding and terrain. You will always gain on one but loose on the other. Very interesting experiment though.

[@steverolfeca]

In my experience, there’s a lot to be gained from fine-tuning small-bore bikes. It’s absurd to suggest that Honda engineers can tune for ALL types of riding and terrain- they have to aim for a reasonable average. A short 140 pounder who lives on the flatlands can pick up a fair amount of top speed from a small windshield and a slight gearing increase. At the other extreme, a 250lb lug who lives in San Francisco can get better climbing power on those steep hills by gearing it down and opening up the airbox...

[@blackbird69xxx]

@@steverolfeca Its about optimum torque through the rev range, mpg and longevity of the engine.... But i agree sometimes riders have different needs and wants

[@joeprine1543]

Have you done this to the CT 125 also? What were the results?

[@QuasiMotard]

No, the CT125 is still running the stock gearing. I don't think it will have the power up top to pull the higher gear since it's already limited to 53-55 mph by aerodynamics and lower engine output than the Cub. 😉👍 --QM

[@jackvoss175]

After you measure the tensioners on the chain, and get them even and tightened, take it out for a ride, and remeasure. You might be surprised. Courtesy of Half Vast Flying

[@ApastronRetro]

13T is the way to go on these bikes. I am planning on installing a 12T and trying that.

[@QuasiMotard]

Unfortunately, dropping down to a 13T front sprocket would limit the Cub's top speed for my use. I've been pleased with the 15T sprocket over the past couple of years and ~15K miles. I have observed a 10-15% increase in efficiency at 50-55 MPH compared to a stock Super Cub with a 14T sprocket, so the 15T does have some advantages. 👍 --QM

[@ApastronRetro]

@@QuasiMotard It didn't do anything to my top end, The rev's might be slightly higher, but I think you would be impressed. I would like to try a 15T someday, If you are ever up near Buffalo NY I will let you try out my c125 13T. I am going one tire size up and trying a 12T. Just got it in the mail. :) Thanks again for your videos!

[@timhudson1846]

@@ApastronRetro How did the 12T work out ??

[@ApastronRetro]

@@timhudson1846 I havent tried it. What to buy it lol?

[@ivankuljismusic8895]

You: 'Fake it!' Me: 'Fake it till ya makes it!' (!nK /anon) SUBSCRIBED!

[@QuasiMotard]

Thx for the feedback and the sub! 😉👍 --QM

[@generalzod7959]

The mileage is impressive!

[@QuasiMotard]

I'm planning to take a 1500-mile trip with the Super Cub this weekend, so that will be a good test of the 15T sprocket change. I'll will certainly record the trip, and I'll post a ride report with final impressions of the sprocket change. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@generalzod7959]

@@QuasiMotard cool, sounds fun. Safe travels!

[@kbrown6763]

Hello pal, I am eagerly awaiting for the CT hunter cub to come to England, if it does, do you have any thoughts, or ideas, if the sprocket and guide plate can be changed, as you did with your own cub, or do you think it probably will be a different ratio that is not compatible to fit a bigger sprocket, any information you can supply, will be greatly appreciated, I ask this, because I believe the ct125 is coming to America before the u.k., many thanks in advance.

[@QuasiMotard]

Greetings from the USA! I have already reserved two CT125's, so we will know more details about our US-spec models soon. The rumored differences between the Super Cub and the CT125 ("Trail 125" here in the USA) are these: spoked wheels, rear disk brake, slightly reworked ignition timing for more mid-range torque (less top speed), and NO DUAL-RANGE TRANSMISSION (as the old CT110's had). Some of the early specs mentioned that it would have a traditional cable-activated clutch instead of the centrifugal clutch; however, that appears to be incorrect according to Honda USA's spec page: powersports.honda.com/street/minimoto/trail-125-abs/specifications . As for gearing changes, I'm sure that the internal transmission ratios will be the same, and the sprockets will be interchangeable if you want to re-gear for your needs. The Super Cub has a 14/36 sprocket ratio, where the CT125 will have a 14/39 ratio (more acceleration and lower top-speed). The dual-range transmission would have been wonderful for crawling through the woods and difficult single-track trails, but it looks like we won't have that option here in the USA. I will be sure to post videos of my CT125's as soon as they arrive, so stay tuned! Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@kbrown6763]

@@QuasiMotard many thanks lad, and safe riding.

[@66block84]

As an option, & I know this is asking a lot, wouldn't it be nice if Honda made this with a 175cc engine?

[@QuasiMotard]

Agreed! I'm sure the intention is to reuse as many off-the-shelf parts as possible (e.g. the Grom motor), and they are probably trying to stay true to the original Super Cub theme. I would love to see a "Touring Cub" with a 175-250cc motor, 5-speed transmission, and a 3-gallon fuel tank... but still retain most of the retro styling and the large 17" wheels. That combination would be capable of long-distance touring and more reasonable highway speeds. Maybe we'll see something along those lines in a few years... Honda has been releasing some very interesting bikes lately. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@hondaslex]

Hello, think this has to do with European License rules. A lot of people can ride 125 ccm with the car driver license.

[@stephenprofilet204]

I just bought a 2022 Supercub. Would recommend the Kitaco 15T for this Cub?

[@QuasiMotard]

Congrats on your new Super Cub! The front sprocket upgrade is good for reducing the engine RPM's at cruising speeds and for extending the range of the lower 3 gears. The "taller" ratio can be problematic if you live in an area with lots of hills or inclines, so keep that in mind. I live at sea level with relatively flat elevation profiles, so the 15T upgrade works very well for my needs. My friend, Adrian, and I rode our Super Cubs nearly 10K miles around the USA in July 2021 for the Scooter Cannonball Run. Adrian's bike is completely stock (14T front sprocket), and mine still has the 15T sprocket. We've noticed that my Cub is about 10-15% more fuel efficient than his bike, and that is likely due to the lower engine RPM's at highway speeds. Our top speeds are nearly identical under most circumstances, but our Cubs' climbing rates are slightly offset due to the different gear ratios. While ascending very steep mountain inclines, I would be able to race past Adrian's Cub at the top of 2nd gear, while he would be at the rev-limiter and was forced to switch up to 3rd gear. At other times, he would outpace me in 3rd gear when I was stuck between 2nd and 3rd. It's all related to the trade-off's in where the engine's torque peak was most efficient at particular road speeds. Overall, I think the 15T sprocket upgrade is worthwhile unless you live in a very hilly environment. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@stephenprofilet204]

@@QuasiMotard Thanks for your reply!

[@knifenoob5411]

Wish you had a VStrom, like your vids. These cubs seem pretty cool.

[@QuasiMotard]

Thanks for the feedback! I've ridden the 650 'Strom (and SV650's) many times... it's a fantastic bike! I might add one to the stable one of these days, but my Honda CB500X fills that touring/commuting role right now. I'll probably get the new Honda NT1100 to use as my touring bike for longer rides... we'll see. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@sabretech2001]

Does the OEM CDI box have a rev limiter? You might try an aftermarket one to see if that improves the performance. It might also be time to look at a larger carb/manifold. Enjoying this series of videos.

[@QuasiMotard]

Yes, the OEM CDI has a rev limiter, but I'm not sure at what RPM... probably somewhere around 9200 RPM. I haven't run mine into the limiter yet because the motor stops pulling before that happens. You can see/hear the limiter in action on Cycle World's dyno test video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/inaofp9_fdNkmMk . Their dyno numbers show that the Super Cub reaches 8.12 HP @7120 RPM and 7.07 lb-ft @ 5110 RPM... so it doesn't make much sense to wring its neck above ~7200 RPM. Since the Cub's motor is derived from the Grom (MSX-125), I'm sure that a plethora of performance goodies are not far away. An intake, exhaust, camshaft, and fuel controller will probably be able to extract a few more HP out of the stock 125cc displacement. Moving up to big-bore kits or other insanity will certainly happen for other owners, but I'll stick with the factory configuration for now. Anytime you change the fueling, ignition or other components, you need to modify many other items to match... it's Pandora's Box. I'll probably keep mine mechanically stock so I don't lose the reliability and fuel economy. 👍😉 --QM

[@man9to5a]

Can I do the same to my super cub c110? Please 🙏🙏🙏

[@QuasiMotard]

Yes, I believe that the C110 uses the same sprockets. The countershaft guide plate might be different, so be sure to check the parts catalogs on japan.webike.com and similar suppliers before you order your new parts. The C110 will have less engine power than the C125, so the bike might not be able to accelerate in 4th gear very well. Good luck! 👍 --QM

[@paveldeveraux2729]

Of course, www.webike.com.ua/HONDA/Super+Cub+C125/Big+Bore+Kits+Cylinders/14059/1181/mc/p.sk=1/

[@26TptCoy]

Consider the torque range, you may need to re jet the carb and use a higher octane fuel. You are trying to push the same weight at lower revs so you need more hp.

[@paveldeveraux2729]

Fuel injection!.... Needs a new engine electronic control unit, big bore kit and new injector...

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

​​​@@paveldeveraux2729I think just a high flow air filter, high flow exhaustand and ECU reset would do the trick. The potential problem is trailer clearance/attachment. TheYoshimura race exhaust may be best and also may be the most annoying.

[@steves1007]

Well crap, I was thinking of getting a Super or a Hunter Cub when it's released but I'm 9 inches taller and 70 lbs heavier w/o gear than your fully geared weight. These bikes might be a little small for me.....damn.

[@QuasiMotard]

Yep... you're a big guy, so you might look a bit like a circus animal on a clown bike. 🤣 However, there is a big guy in the UK ("@TheChroniclesOfMrFish", kzbin.info/door/ff6oz8uqUMyJjexBtlftXw ) that reviewed the Cub over a year ago, and he recently bought one for himself. You might want to watch his review video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJ2zap59iLWVjNE . The Hunter Cub CT125 will be slightly larger than the Super Cub, but not by much (slightly taller seat, but mostly the same dimensions). It's also reported that the CT125's motor will be tuned more for low-end and midrange power than top-end, so that will work well for trail riding. You could always "gear down" the bike with a larger rear sprocket to give a bit more torque, but that will obviously sacrifice top speed in favor of that low-end pull. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@steves1007]

Thanks for the link to his review. I've watched all your videos on the Super Cub and I can say with confidence that I will be getting a Hunter Cub when they are released. I may look a little oversized on it but these bikes just look like too much fun to pass up on. Keep up the great work on the videos and stay safe.

[@isbastardbunny]

Nice maybe doing the rear sprocket instead for the front

[@mto1568]

I like your neighborhood..

[@ridavlog5]

15 in front ,& 36 in back??

[@hmetoo]

So is it hot?

[@iqrarsayyad9082]

video kitnee sall ke upload kar rah hoo

[@timmit3579]

With these sprocket changes, You will get increased high end speed & better mpg in exchange for slower response off the line( at the traffic lights)... Sounds good for the kind of traveling you're going to do... Right? I like watching your videos; I'm no" motorhead", but I'm getting a better understanding of why you want to make these changes....

[@QuasiMotard]

Yep, that's exactly why I upgraded to the 15T front sprocket... so it would relax the motor a bit at 55 MPH for my longer road trips. I've observed a 10-15% increase in efficiency vs a stock Cub that has the 14T sprocket. Adrian's Cub always runs out of fuel before mine, and the difference has been as extreme as 20%+ in some cases over the exact same paths and speeds (e.g,. 91 MPG for him vs 116 MPG for me while riding together). 😉👍 --QM

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

The fifteen to twenty percent gain in MPG is awesome! I hope you are recovering fast and fully.

[@robertharper8173]

While fuel economy should increase, lack of power is the limiting factor here regarding the top end. My area is quite hilly, so no reason for me to go to a 15T front sprocket.

[@paveldeveraux2729]

Naaa, the limiting factor is your wind resistance... Displacing wind takes most of the power, try to reduce you total cross sectional area.

[@heritagehillsecurity8778]

​@@paveldeveraux2729Yes, my understanding is all things being equal on a flat road 90% of energy goes to fighting wind resistance and ten percent is fighting road friction on average.

[@cloggsy1971]

Did you ever try the 16 tooth?

[@QuasiMotard]

No, I haven't had time to try the 16T on the Cub yet. I fear that it will make 4th gear nearly useless except for cruising at 55-60 mph with NO headwind or road inclines. It will also skew the speedometer another negative 3-5 mph, so a speedo healer would be necessary. 👍 --QM

[@sr20dago]

@@QuasiMotard TRY THE 16T lol PLZZZZ

[@solstar4778]

So the top end was a failure on the 15 sprocket 😫

[@QuasiMotard]

During this test, I wasn't able to pull through 60-ish mph very well, but subsequent runs have turned out better. The higher ratio makes it hard for the Cub to pull through 60 mph if there are any headwinds or road inclines. I made an accidental 3rd gear top speed run and hit the rev-limiter at 65 mph ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGqvZ3uhZdCCb5I ) and then I pulled up to 71 mph after switching up to 4th gear. I have been able to make several 71-72 mph runs since that time ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWilhXh-jbyZrrc ), but the top speed is always dependent on airspeed (e.g. no headwinds). Cheers! --QM

[@paveldeveraux2729]

No, the lack of power to displace air at 50 MPH ... Try eliminating the front shield and wear a slippery jacket. needs a big bore kit... www.webike.com.ua/HONDA/Super+Cub+C125/Big+Bore+Kits+Cylinders/14059/1181/mc/p.sk=1/

[@randyparmanan8017]

You mind telling me your rear sproket size?

[@QuasiMotard]

I am still running the original rear sprocket site (36T) on the rear. I may eventually change it to a 34T and drop the front back down to a 14T, but this gearing (15/36T) seems to work well for my needs. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@randyparmanan8017]

@@QuasiMotard thank you very much I found the 15/36 a big improvement over my my recent 14/36 chain link count please and thanks ?🙏

[@QuasiMotard]

@@randyparmanan8017 Agreed! The 15/36T combo seems to work very well for the new C125. The "longer" gear ratios in the lower 3 gears works very well for commuting and riding around town. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@timhudson1846]

Quasimotard.. I need a 13T sprocket. Do you want to sell your old one ? Or where to buy one ? Part number? Anything will help.

[@QuasiMotard]

Howdy, Tim! The original front sprocket on the Super Cub was a 14T piece. The source that I used for the 15T and 16T sprockets was Webike in Japan: japan.webike.net/ps/#!p.m=14059&p.c=1586&p.sk=1 . The shipping prices from Japan aren't cheap, so I recommend purchasing everything you might need (e.g., other upgrades or multiple sprocket sizes) in one order to save on shipping charges. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@timhudson1846]

@@QuasiMotard howdy from Missouri. Just wondering if you'd consider selling your blue Super Cub? Tim

[@QuasiMotard]

@@timhudson1846 Howdy, Tim! Thanks for the interest, but I don't think I'll ever sell my Super Cub... it's near and dear to my heart! 😉👍 --QM

[@timhudson1846]

@@QuasiMotard don't blame you a bit.. I sooooo regrets trading my 2020 off.. hopefully next week I'll have a 2021.. first thing I'll do is order in a long seat.. Next time your in the Missouri Ozarks.. holler at me.. got a great camping spot here on the farm

[@QuasiMotard]

@@timhudson1846 Will do, thanks for the offer! Hopefully, you'll be rolling on another Super Cub soon! 😉👍 --QM

[@leftymadrid]

But that darn wind really affects everything actually. Personally I believe that it's already studied, you know what the correct gearing should be... The determinating factor is the overall power output this little baby gives. So yeah, you may be right, factory sprocket may be the best way...

[@QuasiMotard]

I've ridden over 14K miles on my Cub with this 15/36T gear ratio, and it works well for my needs. The lower gears seem to pull better and they're more useful around town. The engine RPM is reduced at cruising speeds in 4th gear, so the overall economy has increased by 10-15% compared to where it was before the upgrade. This bump in efficiency was verified when I took my 10K mile trip around the USA last year with my buddy, Adrian, on his Cub that has the factory 14/36T sprockets. My Cub consistently achieved 10-15% better economy and range than his Cub could muster. Our bike configurations for that trip we're nearly identical except for his larger windscreen. However, we observed the same difference on a previous trip before he installed that windscreen. Top speed on flat ground is roughly similar to the factory ratio because of the limited engine power (drag-limited). However, with a tailwind or downhill run, the top speed has increased about 5 mph to 72-74 mph on GPS. Long uphill climbs with the 15T sprocket can fall behind the 14T ratio depending on road speeds or if the engine moves outside of its power curve. Adrian walked away from me several times in the Rockies when I was stuck between 3rd and 4th gears. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@clay-r15]

I ordered Passenger footpegs and a genuine Honda passenger seat that fits over the Honda rack yesterday. had to get them from Thailand because they're making passenger foot pegs now for the US models that attatch to the shocks and frame.

[@QuasiMotard]

Wow... thx for the update! I'd love to see those passenger pegs! Send a link to the product page if you can. I've seen the passenger seat that fits the OEM rear rack, but I didn't want to drill or modify my swingarm to mount the footpegs. If these new ones are frame/shock-mounted, then that solves that problem and also the DOT regulations that require a frame-mounted solution. --QM

[@clay-r15]

www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-SUPER-CUB-C125-2018-2019-REAR-FOOT-PEGS-STEP-REST-PASSENGER-PAIR-ALL-NEW/113803797806?hash=item1a7f3c252e:m:mrEIs0pFtIATUNTm8PA6Cng

[@ripmax333]

@EpiDemic117 if they make a ct125 using this cub platform I will be all over it. I agree, they should really consider making the good old simple trail bike.

[@ripmax333]

@@QuasiMotard if you check at BIKERZBITS.COM you may also found OEM pegs and seats if they are not listed just get the original part numbers from another site and send them an e-mail with the part numbers you need.

[@harrisonbailey6124]

Do a R1 vlog again?

[@QuasiMotard]

I haven't been riding the R1 much lately because it needs new shoes. Both tires are becoming quite slippery due to age (about 5 years old), and the rear is too easy to spin up or step out when on the throttle. I'll put some fresh rubber on it in the next few weeks and then I'll take a short road trip with it and hit some twisties, so stay tuned! I'll drop another comment to you when I upload that video. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@randymack1782]

I went to my local Honda dealer to inquire about 1 of these last week, they didn't know what if was, 1 guy googled on his phone, but basically said never heard of, can't get, try another dealer, he was my closest and was over 50 miles awat

[@QuasiMotard]

Which one did you ask about... the Super Cub or the sprocket upgrade? Also, where in the country are you located? Some dealers haven't received ANY Super Cubs, while others in smaller towns have them sitting in their showrooms and can't sell them. Interest seems to vary a lot depending on the area of the country. --QM

[@randymack1782]

super cub. I am on the east coast. dealer I was at is big in my opinion & represents several brands, next closest dealer I don't know if I even want to try, I was snubbed bad & couldn't get service, around 2010? they walked away when I approached, every sales person, and part employee left area as I would walk towards, I inquired with an e-mail after I went home they apologized, and asked me to come back, and tried to claim they didn't, but said yes they saw me, lol, even my wife saw their treatment towards me, but I ended up buying used, & when I was there I was ready to buy, but they saw some "BIKER" they just ignored me. next big dealer may be over 100 miles away, unsure until I start searching for dealers,

[@a88629228]

扭力不夠大 不然可以更快的 雖然尾速不好看 但前三擋應該會比原本設定好騎 轉速不會太高車子就能保持一定速度巡航 小排量的宿命

[@QuasiMotard]

Greetings from the USA! I agree that the motor does not have enough power to travel at higher speeds in 4th gear. The lower gears actually work better with this gearing because they pull longer before needing to change gears. Cheers! 👍 --QuasiMotard 来自美国的问候！ 我同意电机没有足够的动力在4档以更高的速度行驶。 较低的齿轮实际上在此齿轮上工作得更好，因为在需要更换齿轮之前，它们会拉得更长一些。 干杯! 👍--QuasiMotard Láizì měiguó de wènhòu! Wǒ tóngyì diànjī méiyǒu zúgòu de dònglì zài 4 dàng yǐ gèng gāo de sùdù xíngshǐ. Jiào dī de chǐlún shíjì shang zài cǐ chǐlún shàng gōngzuò dé gèng hǎo, yīnwèi zài xūyào gēnghuàn chǐlún zhīqián, tāmen huì lā dé gèng zhǎng yīxiē. Gānbēi! 👍--QuasiMotard

[@man9to5a]

大俠，請問如果是super cub c110 可以這樣升級嗎？請指教，謝謝🙏🙏

[@longrider9551]

Try going down 1 tooth in the rear, 1 in front =3 in rear and is opposite, going smaller in rear has same effect as bigger in front

[@QuasiMotard]

I might try different ratios before I take it on really long highway trips. I wanted to try the "easy" change first, as the countershaft sprocket is the simpler modification (no need to change chain length or take the rear wheel off of the bike). The Cub's little 125cc mill doesn't make much power, so changing the ratios will be a trade-off somewhere. Larger bikes generally have enough power to pull a taller ratio in top gear, so you can keep your top-end speed while reducing cruising RPM's. The Cub just doesn't have enough power to pull much more than 63-65 mph because of wind resistance. Other power mods (e.g. intake, exhaust, ECU) might extract more power from the engine, but fuel economy or other factors will certainly suffer. I'll probably leave the 15T on there for a while longer and then switch back to the 14T. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@longrider9551]

@@QuasiMotard if you go down 1 or even 2 in the rear you wont have to change the chain but the wheel will have to come off to change the sprocket so it it ismore work but it will also be a less drastic increase so it may give you the same top speed at lower RPM's, I just bought a cub to play with very fun bike and fits nice with my Africa Twin and harley XR 750 flat tracker ✌

[@QuasiMotard]

​@@longrider9551 Yeah, I might try that before my cross-country trip next year. I'm planning to take the Super Cub on the 2020 Scooter Cannonball Run next July. I wanted to see if I could reduce the cruising RPM's a bit without sacrificing too much top-end, because the poor little Cub is going to endure about 8000 miles of highway duty on that journey (~2500 miles from Houston to Maine, ~3500 miles from Maine to California, then another ~2500 miles from California back to Texas). The only other mod that I will probably make before the Cannonball is to add a 2.5-3.5 gallon auxiliary fuel tank on the back rack (along with the associated plumbing, fuel pump, tip-over protection, etc). That will extend the Cub's range to a butt-numbing 400-550 miles between fill-ups assuming ~120 mpg (accurate based on my WOT highway run to Austin and back). So, that's 7.5-10 hours in the saddle (at 55 mph) before needing to refuel. I think my butt or legs will wear out long before the fuel supply does. BTW... that's a nice assortment of bikes that you mentioned! How do you like your AT? I had a deposit on one before they were released, and then had to bail on it because I'm vertically-challenged. I'm only 5'7" with a 30" inseam, so the AT's 34"+ seat height was just a bit too high for me to use in my normal rides and city commuting duties. I waited a while, but now I'm about to finalize the paperwork on my new toy... the 2019 KTM 790 Adventure. It has a more manageable seat height for me, and should tick all of the boxes that the AT would (minus a bit of the off-road capabilities due to the shorter suspension travel). Cheers! --QM

[@longrider9551]

@@QuasiMotard KTM is a helluva bike, the AT Adventure is definitely a tall ride but the suspension makes everything a magic carpet ride, the 790 for sure a better offroader

[@greybeard5774]

28:12 - the tension should be measured under load - when you are sitting on the bike - the center of the rear swingarm is not the same as the center of the drive shaft .. so the tension changes according to swingarm movements .. right now it seems to be too tight.

[@QuasiMotard]

How does one measure the slack while seated on the bike? I'm following Honda's procedure... they designed the bike, so that's good enough for me! The official Honda owner's and service manuals specify checking the chain slack while the motorcycle is on its center stand (pp. 91 - 95): cdn.powersports.honda.com/documentum/MWOM/ml.remawmom.2019_31k0ga00_cub125a_supercub.pdf . 😉👍 --QM

[@xtc2v]

Why didn't you just grind some metal off the original chain guide plate to give better clearance?

[@QuasiMotard]

I probably could have modified the original guide plate... it needed to be clearanced about 1/8" all the way around the inner edge. I just decided that it would be easier to get the Kitaco guide because it was cheap (only $11.10 USD, japan.webike.net/products/24050256.html) and I was already ordering more parts from Webike in Japan anyway. That option required less effort and the OEM piece remained intact. 😉👍 --QM

[@xtc2v]

@@QuasiMotard Ah! Quite right!.......(Super Cub now on discount here in the UK as dealers can't sell them.)

[@styx7612]

❤❤❤❤

[@mickfitz76]

Most just change the rear sprocket out here. Drop two teeth for acceleration. Gain 2 teeth for top end.

[@zrkn1]

Yeah, there is no way the top end would be slower. I don't get it.

[@jnicksnewstart]

You've got that backwards. Given the same front sprocket. A larger sprocket at the wheel makes the bike's top end lower, but gives it more torque Resulting in better acceleration and the ability to climb hills easier. That's why trail bikes normally have larger rear sprockets.

[@cw3728]

Small engine like that doesn't get the revs with the bigger sprocket, all you need is a slight head wind and you'll be going slower.

[@QuasiMotard]

Agreed... air resistance is the enemy of these small engines, but that's a problem regardless of sprocket sizing. My intention for this +1T front sprocket was to calm the engine at cruising speed for my long highway trips. I left this sprocket in place, and the plan has been successful over the past 16K miles. I rode this bike while pulling a trailer behind it for 10K miles around the USA for the 2021 Scooter Cannonball Run ( kzbin.info/aero/PLLXxDh3JumLnSK37lF4AcrF28frAIfLfA ). My Cub with the 15T front sprocket consistently achieved ~15% higher fuel efficiency and range than Adrian's Cub with the 14T sprocket. My 10K mile average was 109.1 MPG... while pulling a trailer at nearly wide-open throttle for 23 days straight! My Cub struggled into some headwinds and inclines where Adrian's Cub wasn't fighting as hard, but that was only when I was stuck between "comfortable" RPM ranges between gears. That scenario reversed on some steep uphill climbs when I could run 2nd gear longer and at higher speeds that caught Adrian's Cub between 2nd and 3rd gear. It's the same power doing work at different RPM ranges and road speeds. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM

[@cw3728]

@@QuasiMotard You could always go back to 14 on the front and go down two on the back. I think 3 teeth on the rear = one tooth one the front so if you go down two teeth you still have a bit of torque and a bit more speed without the engine dying and having to change down lol. Reminds me of being 16 having a 50cc going ti work.

[@QuasiMotard]

​@@cw3728 Adjusting by -2T in the rear might work "better" than +1T in the front, but that requires a lot more work and the ratio difference is minimal (~1.2%). Removing the rear wheel, sprocket carrier, and changing the sprocket is a long longer process than simply swapping the front sprocket. Any sprocket change of 2T+ can require adding or deleting links from the chain to keep it within the allowable axle adjustment range. That renders quick testing (as in this video) more difficult. 14/36: 0.38889 (stock) 14/34: 0.41176 (-2T rear) 15/36: 0.41667 (+1T front) I was aiming for a ~500 RPM difference in engine speed to create a substantial reduction in fuel consumption and prolong my range on the highway. This is a fuel-injected engine, and the injector's duty cycle is directly linked to engine RPM and relative throttle load. We knew that we would be running our Cubs' engines at 90-100% throttle most of the time, so load was irrelevant. With all other factors equal, lower engine RPM means lower fuel consumption due to fewer injector cycles. Another consideration for changing rear sprockets is chain length and same-link-to-same-tooth contacts for chain wear-leveling. I use GearingCommander to calculate all the variables in one shot, including transmission ratio, engine RPM, etc: www.gearingcommander.com/ . In the end, this modification worked well for me and achieved the intended goals. 😉👍 --QM

[@cw3728]

@@QuasiMotard Well, if your happy with it then its a wrap.

[@user-jo8lx4uk2e]

See! I said so. But l recommend 16T though.

[@korky7775]

Does it alter the ABS or anything else..

[@user-jo8lx4uk2e]

korky7775 No. You don’t have to change anything but sprocket

[@garysheil6151]

Add bigger jet better air filtter should help you see 60 + good luck

[@QuasiMotard]

Since this video was taken, I have been able to achieve over 71 mph on GPS several times (kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGqvZ3uhZdCCb5I). The new Super Cub is fuel-injected, so there aren't any jets to change (no carburetor). Any mods to the intake or exhaust will also require ECU changes or an add-on fuel computer to compensate for the new A/F ratio. Overall, the 15T front sprocket works OK. This isn't a fast bike... I just wanted to calm the motor down a bit at 50-55 mph. Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@mickfitz76]

Damn. I'm 220lb without the gear on. My poor cub I'm sorry.

[@QuasiMotard]

HAHAHA! 🤣 I always get a chuckle when people spend $1K+ on fancy titanium exhausts and go-fast goodies... the easier weight to shave is the RIDER! However... even though the Super Cub is only rated to carry only 234 lbs, it can handle a LOT more... just look at the Asian and Indian markets where they load these things so heavy that you can't even see the bike any more... these little Cub's are reliable little beasts! 👍😉 --QM

[@mickfitz76]

@@QuasiMotard a diet is the best performance upgrade for the cub no doubt. Then a 181cc upgrade kit for the C125.

[@QuasiMotard]

@@mickfitz76 Atkins or Keto, here I come! 🤣 --QM

[@frank2043]

@@QuasiMotard are you able to check and see if a 13 tooth a 14 tooth and 15 tooth how it affects the overall gas mileage to performance? I would be interested in seeing what the original tooth sprocket with the 15 which one gets better mileage overall and how much to the gain or loss of performance. I greatly enjoy your super cub videos thank you

[@kristophertrout7328]

If the bike had a 3 speed transmission as they had in the past it would be an improvement for sure.

[@Bajaheat]

Kristopher Trout how the hell?

[@Bajaheat]

Kristopher Trout it actually needs one more gear not one less

[@QuasiMotard]

The 4th gear definitely helps to spread out the ratios a bit. Adding a 5th gear might help reduce cruising rpm's, but the Cub's motor just doesn't have much power on top to push through the wind resistance above 60-65 mph. The 4th gear ratio would need to be closer to 3rd, and then the 5th could be "taller" to act as an overdrive. You'd be down-shifting a lot over hills, though... check out my ride video here from a recent highway trip: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWilhXh-jbyZrrc . Cheers! 👍 --QM

[@MM-oq5bl]

@@QuasiMotard The 4th gear is an improvement, 5 gears would be even better( Honda SS50 of the 1970s) When I had a 3-speed C70, my journey included a lengthy steep uphill section , in 3rd the engine laboured, but down to 2nd was at maximum rpm, I hated that hill, and so did my C70!

[@dionygerman8340]

Ok so no one is going to mention the fact the card are disappearing @ min 4:57

[@QuasiMotard]

🤣 That's funny... I didn't even notice that bit while editing out that stop light lag. My camera position was perfect between those edits to create that "ghost car" effect. --QM

[@ChillaxMoto]

I thought I'm the only one that noticed that😁👊

[@paveldeveraux2729]

There is very little you can do to overcome the aerodynamic drag of you and the bike... you have reached an aerodynamic wall at 50 MPH and to overcame just a little bit more you have to streamline the bike to reduce your frontal area, maybe a large pointed windshield covering most of the front of the bike and wearing a slippery jacket and a pointy full face helmet....And that would get you only 10 MPH more only and then face the wall again... The more weight you carry, the more drag you will create....

[@QuasiMotard]

Agreed. My intention for this 15T upgrade was just to relax the motor at 50-55 mph so I could have a little less "mechanical sympathy" while wringing out the little motor at highway speeds. There isn't much that can be done for the aerodynamics of a vehicle like this, but it would be interesting to see someone undertake a hyper-mileage project with this powertrain... something like an old Vetter dustbin fairing to make it very slippery. I'm sure that it could achieve 75-80 MPH and probably 200+ MPG. 👍 --QM

[@CartridgeGamert]

I wonder with 13T or 12T or you really lose tomutch acc. and or you can stay up with traffic at the traffic lights and topup the max speed, 55 / 60mph is just not enough here in the netherlands, atleast 65 mph but 75 mph would be nice because many roads are 80 mph (130 km/u), my yamaha xenter 125cc is doing 65 mph and it is tricky to over take trucks (who do 60 mph rightlane) then enter with 65 mph left lane in between >80 mph traffic, the difference between left and right lane is to big to enter and over taking is too slow so you have to stick to the back of a truck to stay safe but we all know that is exacly the place what isnt safe at all. There for here noby ride 125cc, but for work its cheap, i do 70 mpg (1/30) if i ride full throttle at 65 mph, my car (vw polo) half of it and here a gollon would cost 7.50 usd so i drive 125 miles per day for work 😅 thnx for the video and i keep watching!

[@alanchantiefighterskuanlia627]

125cc cup overhere easily do 130kmh. i think is the exhaust and oil. we use full synthetic car oil. as motorcycle oil lack performance

[@Rubberfoxy]

Youre going to kill the clutch and transmission. Car oil is not meant to lubricate the gears and clutches of a motorcycle

[@blackbird69xxx]

Are u daft ? u need -JASO MA: Oils for motorcycles with a wet clutch. These oils deliver the needed friction performance to prevent the clutch from slipping and are ..

[@MadsWorld34]

i have a friend that has the monkey hes 275 pounds. stock he could run 52 mph and i could run 57 at 185 pounds. he dropped the front sprocket by 1 tooth and he could run 59 and i could run 64 mph i guess with more rpm it gave him a little more power. so he went up to a 15 tooth and he could only hit 49 to 50 mph while i could run 56 mph. so it seemed we needed to go down to get more power and speed.