Quentin the Rover Convertible gets New Ridex brakes

Quentin the Rover 216 convertible has another problem, now it starts it wont stop, new front brakes are needed, and a set of Ridex disks and pads are the solution - how wrong can this simple job go?
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[@mrcogginsgarage7062]

Quick piece of advice,if I may ,when replacing discs allways allways make the mating face of the hub as clean and level as possible to avoid run out causing judder with the new discs and pads.

[@steven-vn9ui]

Good shout, agreed. Although it does look like Matt had wire brushed it to some extent

[@MF-fg3cg]

Also bit of locktight on the calliper carrier bolts

[@Bratfalken]

Some copper paste on the surfaces makes next removal easier also. But I doubt Matt will be the one doing that! ;)

[@Roverturbo]

It amazes me how many people don’t turn the wheel to bring the calliper out to make things easier...!

[@Zeem4]

One reason for the pads not fitting with the anti-rattle clips in place is that the carrier bracket has swollen up with rust in the area that the pads sit. I had exactly this on my Renault when I replaced all the discs and pads this summer after it had been standing on my driveway for nearly a year - I scraped the rust off with a combination of a small pry bar and a flat-bladed screwdriver, and everything fit perfectly afterwards. I also put a smear of Mintex Ceratec grease on the surfaces before putting it back together.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

It can also be because they are the wrong pads. I had this happen with som pads acustomer had bought from a local morfactor in the past summer. Even nissan suggested the wrong pads for her car for some reason.

[@alanparis7256]

Surprised to see you not checking and freeing off sliding pins in carriers. Its a common thing causing uneven pad wear (one thick, one thin ) love yiur vids and keep up the good work. Happy new year.

[@kamilnowak623]

I hope that was done offcamera, otherwise those new pads won't last long

[@antonioercolino6087]

Totally agree💯👍

[@petermartin6031]

I came to say the same!

[@furiousdriving]

yes they were checked, moved fine it was the tight shims causing the uneven wear

[@TheMase60]

I would of cleaned and painted the callipers/carriers stripped the pins down re greased the pins regardless .

[@ramdonice]

those slide plates as i call them that you said was wrong, i disagree with you with what you said, they work really well to keep the pads from getting stuck, just need to clean up the carriers properly with files as they rust and expand making the pads fit tight and not being able to move, when fitting put a smear of grease between the carrier and slide plate to help stop moisture getting in between causing rust. also cleaning up where the discs fits will help the discs fit nice and keep them true to minimise brake wobble there can happen if discs are not 100% true because of rusty surface, also spray a bit of oil on hub to stop rusting and discs come off lovely in the future.

[@antonioercolino6087]

You need a proper mallet to hammer off those discs. I always use copper grease on the hub and they come off easy ,in fact a smear of copper grease on the carriers really freshes up the look of rusted brakes and protects them. 👍

[@3vom918]

Agree, I was channelling Jaws and thinking "You're going to need a bigger hammer".

[@RichieRouge206]

I’ve got the Ryobi impact - these cordless impacts really have transformed DIY car jobs for sure - as have the induction heaters (shame they are so expensive though) I’ve used AutoDoc before and they were excellent. Even though Quentin still has a long way to go, it’s quite amazing how far you have brought him! Really enjoying seeing him get better - such a rare and underrated car and quite unique in KZbindom lol. Great video Matt

[@volvo480]

Draper, Ryobi, Parkside (Lidl), all the same stuff with different colours and branding. This is the impact driver I am using: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKWzdZStaK9kg68

[@ianpumphrey5041]

Hi matt great video, thanks! Top tip, when retracting the calliper piston, attach your bleed bottle, crack the nipple loose and the tired fluid is discharged, also makes the job much easier and prevents rolling if the fluid seal inside the calliper which is common on large diameter pistons. Hope this helps!

[@furiousdriving]

thanks!

[@Xyleksoll]

I usually go for the big 17 mm bolts that hold the carrier and the whole assembly comes off - no need to remove the sliding pins if you are going for a rotor change. It makes for a bit of unwieldiness but you have to remove only 2 bolts instead of 4 per side. Also I found that a manual impact driver works wonders on stuck/rusted rotor locating bolts (Honda owner).

[@robertsedgwick1629]

it never ceases to amaze me how ofter someone on youtube makes it hard on themself by not turning the caliper outwards when doing the fiddly bit!

[@furiousdriving]

there was enough access

[@chrishinchliffe2512]

Someone may have commented this further down but when removing the discs are there not two extra threded holes on the front? The idea of these is to screw maybe an M6/8 bolt into each and wind them in against the hub forcing the disc away and off? I may be wrong but I'm sure I used this technique on an old Volvo 440 back in the day 🤔 Cheers Chris

[@louisjames1062]

I’ve just fitted some ridex s line springs to an Audi A4. They ride fine so far, paints a bit thin. Will see how they are

[@mehrzahl2219]

I always take apart the sliding pins and put some grease on them. Also the brake cylinder seals may be knackered causing the calipers to hang.

[@furiousdriving]

I think the callipers were working as the outer pads had worn and the piston moved OK, I think the issue here was the sticking shims

[@alancampbell1008]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has trouble with Mini wheels, had to take mine to the tyre place last year to get the winter wheels off. Trying red grease this year instead of Coppaslip on the back of the steels to see if it makes any difference.

[@michaeltutty1540]

Very interesting indeed. Quentin is hopefully very grateful! The old car is definitely on the way to being a nice, solid little runabout. Keep going, and Quentin is going to end up a prize package indeed.

[@rezaq1]

Couple of things I would have done different. Cleaned up the hub surface with wire brushes/electric drill and wire attachment Copper slipped the crap out the disc retaining screw Serviced the slider pins Lubricated the contact surfaces of the pad with ceratec and checked for fitment/tightness

[@rezaq1]

Matt I HATE uncoated discs. I can’t take them! If I ever manage to get stuffed on a set, I take the time to hand paint the bells and edges with hammerite and an artists paintbrush lol Very therapeutic

[@konradc12]

I always carry bolts to screw in to the disc to force it off the hub. I noticed two extra holes for the purpose. I last used that method on a friend's car, when changing hub bearing. That way the discs are not damaged if they are to be re used. Great job overall.

[@furiousdriving]

Never thought of that method before!

[@tonys1636]

Depends if they are threaded or not.

[@Brickhazard]

@@tonys1636 Even if they are not they can be tapped and used but 90% of discs have threaded holes in the disc for this very reason. Just put a bolt in and do it up and in seconds you have the disc off.

[@error079]

You need to binge watch South Main Auto brake job videos

[@Kenny_P_abz]

Weirdly Eric O has just brought one out today.

[@ajfurrell3744]

I've always been told by the brake manufacturers i deal with not to use copper grease, non-metallic high temp grease is the correct type. With the mini, the fact you have compressed copper between alloy wheel and steel hub is what welded them together every year.

[@grandad8753]

You need to invest in a real hammer 👍and the sliders on the carier looks sized to me

[@VidzVideo]

Bash that disc from the front with a club hammer in a few places and it would have come off.

[@Bratfalken]

I use my sandblaster and remove the rust and crudd near the sliding areas, then apply 5.56 or similar. Then I use my sliding hammer to get the disks loose.

[@scottishcarenthusiastsandtrain]

Fantastic tinkering video, cannot beat nice and shiny parts. Good luck for the MOT when it comes. I just had the MOT on one of the fleet and well let's just say it will make a intresting video.....

[@furiousdriving]

oh dear, more wallet lightening!

[@neilwalsh4058]

Looking good, excellent job done there. Tip for you Matt to get a stuck disc off: Put a couple of bolts thro the holes for the caliper carrier on the hub, head on the inside. Wind a nut on (between holes and disc), tighten gently, revolving the disc as the bolt shank touches it. Tighten the nuts gradually (keep moving disc to even out pressure) and suddenly usually with a bang the disc will come off. If you're reusing the disc, put a piece of ¼" steel plate between the disc and the bolt heads so they don't dig into the back of the disc. No burnt hands either 👍

[@razorsz195]

Quentin is exactly like my Compaq Armada 3500 laptop, i've spent about a week straight, through the night non stop to get this thing working and finally it works, Quentin not starting reminds me of a hiccup in the autoexec.bat file that caused many boot problems, tempremental floppies and drives, i should call it the Quentin Mini..

[@markf4720]

I had a very stuck brake disc on my Audi Coupe GT recently, which hasn't been on the road since 1996. The offside disc was hardly worn but nearside ancient so I think a previous owner had been trying to remove it without success. Heat didn't work and I eventually broke the disc into two pieces by sledgehammering, the middle part remained welded to the hub. In the end I had to angle grind the disc to pieces to get it off!

[@furiousdriving]

Crikey thats extreme...but I was wondering if Id get to that point!

[@timprice4794]

The rust under those plates on the hub carrier will be the likely reason the pad was stuck (pinched in the carrier). They'll need a good clean off where those stainless steel plates went and was sad to see the new Ridex pads didn't come with replacements. They usually do get distorted and deformed as the carriers corrode underneath, they're supposed to be use once and replace. I've left a link on Patreon to a great video by Eric O on all this.

[@frothe42]

Quentin gives the gifts that keep on giving, but so has time and neglect. Admire your persistence in getting work done, and hopefully will allow Quentin to go to a good, loving home. I guess you can still have an MOT whilst in your present lockdown? I noticed a sticker on the strut, I guess those are replacements. Great video, as always.

[@furiousdriving]

yes MOTs are allowed as cars have to be kept legal and we are allowed to travel to work - the Coupe actually needs one this week as well! I think they must be after so long, but its possible they are factory

[@frothe42]

@@furiousdriving I remember you stated that you booked one, but since everything has changed, I did not know if you could still book an MOT or not. Hoping your other vehicle passes as well! 🤞🤞

[@frothe42]

@@furiousdriving If those struts are original WOW! I know it is somewhat low mileage, but the sticker was one of the first things I noticed while you were working on the front brakes. Drums usually do not need replacing, as I assume most of the work is done by the front disc brakes. Going by previous experience when I had all the brakes replaced on our previous Saturn VUE, front discs and the rear drums.

[@tides2002]

I’ve had a stuck disc on my MGTF, no matter how much hitting it wasn’t coming off and I ended up cutting it off with an angle grinder! Just slit the disc part (not around the hub) and then wedged a crowbar in the slit to split the disc in two.

[@fulf]

I have had disks that splits because they need so much force to get off. (sledge hammer 1.5kg) They make them so tight on the outer edge on the hub that its almost pressfitt. Then you get 2dm strech of rust and dirt. Not fun at all.

[@benholroyd5221]

Top tip: If you're going to be sponsored by a company, make sure you spell their name correctly on the video title.

[@Zeem4]

Looks like an autocorrect problem.

[@benholroyd5221]

@@Zeem4 it looks like autoincorrect autoincorrected your comment too!

[@furiousdriving]

autocorrect uncorrected now

[@mjsdecember1990]

8:24 you need to sell that noise to people as an alarm tone for their phones

[@robturbill4329]

The studs are slightly bent due to the MGf wheels that were on previously as pcd is incorrect .great videos enjoy the content and admire your patience

[@tonys1636]

1/10 for cleaning everything up properly, I know it was freezing and you wanted it to be quick but half an hour in the garage or even the kitchen, I always timed it so the Wife was at work, cleaning up both carriers and calipers would have been well spent, yes you would have had to bleed the brakes but that is going to be needed anyway along with a fluid change as Quentin has stood for so long. All done at once and Drums are not scary to work on, just the springs can be a tad tricky at times, a pair of long nose mole grips help with the tension, or remove the hub, easier on cars with fully floating half shafts ( that's going back yonks) or FWD.

[@PaulinesPastimes]

🤞🤞 (that's both hands 😊) for the MOT. Come on Quentin, you can do it! Cheers

[@furiousdriving]

Thanks! All luck needed!

[@drpaulcampbell188]

That induction tool seems very handy, you have used it in quite a few videos now so i guess it was a wise investment. Good to see the brakes now fixed, another job to tick off the list. Great video as always

[@furiousdriving]

Its saved so many hours of struggling since Ive had it! With just one or 2 cars it might not be worth it as once a car is regularly looked after less is seized but with multiple rescue cars its the best thing ever!

[@petergouldbourn2312]

What a saga Furious. It never ends.It has more twists and turns than Corrie. Well done you Matt. I love your channel lock down or no lock down. Pete 🇬🇧

[@cjmillsnun]

It technically doesn't need the screws at all the disc will be held in place by the roadwheel.

[@spyrosbellos2522]

Clicks on this video, Autodoc ad pops up

[@ash7990]

Discs stuck on is common - every other car that comes in. Heavier hammer and they always come off eventually. You can hit the front too. In fact its usually the front that I hit now now the rear.

[@Simon-ui6db]

Will be the rust on the anti rattle shim and carrier making it stick, needs a proper wire wheel to take it back to bare metal. My exs meriva was the same.

[@coopers4491]

Great content ,i thought for a minute there you nicked my flask !!!!! Great tool to have in the COLD FREEZING WEATHER.......STAY SAFE 👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧☕☕☕☕

[@AJC508]

Hi Matt, to avoid wheels and discs rusting on due to bi metallic corrosion you can paint the disc (inside and out) with high temperature paint before fitting. No need to mask anything off, first time applying brakes will clean the disc surface. Alternatively, pre painted discs are available.

[@charleswestbrook118]

A bit of advice...get the Rover in the garage finished up and moving and free up your garage for whatever car you are filming next. Will save you from the weather and freezing temps...

[@hughbishopnh]

Ah, the chime of a claw hammer whacking a brake disk. If you don't object, I will record this sound and make it my new ring-tone. Good luck at the MOT center Quentin.

[@jamestudoseartimon]

Did you scrub off the slider channels in the caliper carrier with a wire brush or scrape them out with a flat screwdriver off camera? If not that's probably why the pads are tight in the carrier and won't move freely. Also the same question for the hub flange ? If the old discs were seized on the hub definitely worth a good scrub with a strong wire brush before applying anti seize grease. *Just checked plenty of other comments on this subject by other viewers*

[@GentilsGarage]

Last time I had a stuck disc brake was on a mk1 KA and a MGf. Wasn't fun either!

[@alexandreb.1101]

I wish I had a penny for every time KZbin puts me an Autodoc ad

[@timhancock6626]

The bolts on the caliper carrier on VW group cars are machine tightened to a massive degree. My torque gun wouldn't touch them, I broke my first extension bar and had to buy a longer one. That one looked pretty well behaved to be honest.

[@furiousdriving]

If they're not rusty Rover R8s are a nice easy one. The Merc and BMWs use allen keys which can be a nightmare

[@davecraig7082]

Great stuff as always Matt, fingers crossed for the MOT!

[@furiousdriving]

thanks!

[@fozzy6897]

How are the ridex discs and pads doing? Think of purchasing 4 calipers discs and brakes from autodoc

[@MrTopgearnerd]

On my last car i had to cut the front discs apart to get them off. The torch and cooling spray didnt do it. First discs on 200000km on salty roads..

[@nicholasreason8379]

To push the piston try a very large pair of pump pliers clean the piston with a very fine emery cloth. Hit in between the wheel bolts with a brass drift (large on the best) and a small lump hammer the shock is better than on the edge of the disk.

[@Iain_C]

The hubs are scary comment made me chuckle 😂

[@rydermike33]

Wow is Quentin starting to relent a little at last? That didn't look too bad at all Matt. (With the exception of burnt skin of course!) Well done.

[@spiffingrich]

We have a Honda CRV with a very similar brake setup (shims and sliding sleeves). As noted by others the sliding sleeves can stick but are cheaply replaceable, glad yours were OK. Our shims looked a little buckled when I took the old pads out of them, as you have described, which was mostly down to the fact that the carrier was a bit rusty - you get some swelling in the slide areas where the rust is and you can either chip that away or file it back being careful not to go into any shiny iron. Either method will give you enough room for the shims to go back in as they should, I wouldn't avoid fitting them as while some cars don't even have them, the calipers on these were made with dimensions expecting them. I doubt it would be unsafe in any way, you might get some unwanted rattle or clunks as you change from braking in reverse to braking going forwards Also, the countersunk screw holding the disc to the hub is only really there to keep everything aligned until the wheel is torqued up, so again nothing to really be too concerned about. Great to see someone braving the elements and carrying on through the winter. Nearly all of my jobs are done for the next few months (rebuilding the wiper mechanism and replacing the alternator on my R1170 was the treat I had last month!

[@Mark-26]

I used to own a 1995 214 SEi in British Racing Green which i absolutely loved. Wish I still had it !

[@steven-vn9ui]

Hi Matt at 14:10 I think those shims you refer to are there to allow the brake pads to move freely as opposed to getting stuck on the rusty surface of the carrier. In the past I have found it useful to use a metal file and take off the rust from the surface where the "shim" sits to allow some clearance for the pads to move freely. I am NOT an expert so please don't take this as gospel. All the best, Steve.

[@ash7990]

New pads are tight every time on these cars (and other cars too, not just Rover's lol) often to the point that they will not fit at all with the shims. You have to really scrape all the corrosion off the carrier under the shims with a screw driver, wire brush and emery cloth etc. Then brand new shims or clean the old ones until they are spotless. The new pads should then fit ok but sometimes even then need a tickle top and bottom with a file (take the paint off). You don't want the pads sitting too tight in the carrier as they will only get tighter over time as they corrode and get dirty. Also sliders usually seize on these too.

[@ash7990]

The shims do look correct.

[@jackhewitson1884]

I would like to say that I love your content. It has kept me massively entertained throughout the pandemic and I have found out so many facts about cars that I didn't know before. I wish you all the best for 2021 and I am certainly looking forward to seeing more car reviews. My favourite review has to be the one where you reviewed the E39 5 series, which is one of my favourite cars as it comes from a time where BMW's felt properly engineered and had real character unlike nowadays where a lot of BMW's are too generic and follow the bandwagon.

[@pkautorepairs2826]

Love it, please keep these tinkering videos coming. Thank you

[@paultaylor9652]

Lovely Jubbly, the Cabriolet has come along way now Matt.

[@jefferysmith3930]

What about the slide pins On the caliper carrier? We’re they seized? That can made the pads were unevenly.

[@richardjohnson3463]

Did everyone hear a seagull laughing at 4mins 50 secs? As you say Matt "A new level of disasterhood" 😅😅

[@xqqqme]

This and Matt's previous video were, I think, the first time I ever noticed seagull calls. Other birds, sure...but seagulls? Well, I can't remember.

[@deanprosser5224]

It must be a Rover thing, my four discs on the MGF were buggers to get off and I didn't have the luxury of an induction tool :-)

[@oliverloseby4966]

cant wait for the coilovers! they will transform Quentin. one tip i always do is wire brush the hub just so its smooth and flat for the brake disc when you put it on. Great video though none the less. good luck!

[@volvo480]

Exactly the same impact drivers were sold here under the Parkside (Lidl) brand. They are brilliant, I use them for changing wheels but also to loosen bolts that have rusted in place. I call it my "DRRRRRRTTT!" 😁

[@reghollisquimdribbler737]

Quentin really is an ungrateful little sod isn't he. Showered with affection but makes life difficult at every turn.

[@Mirage8v]

Love the time lapse on the other side! Must say this replacement is a bit too "Hubnuttian" for me. I just love the fact you seem to care a bit more about how things go back together normally. Would've at least expected a drill with a wire wheel and a bit of black/silver paint over the caliper/hub :)

[@paulwlynch]

Love the 80s/90s synthesizer music..

[@jamesbarnes4619]

why is there a huge gap between the red wing and the bumper

[@Brickhazard]

The discs have a threaded hole in them to push them off the hub. Takes all of 1 minute.

[@richardbartholomew7924]

I love watching your videos mate where's the cooper seal mate can't wait for the mercedes w123

[@machiningbasics1729]

Nice work as usual I love to see all eras of cars being preserved. Not everyone cup of tea but they should be preserved and enjoyed. Plus they’re cool

[@rimmersbryggeri]

On brake discs that are going to be discarded I usually find that violence is actually the quickest tool to get them off. (Even though I usually dont advocate excesive force) Try ABS coated discs from autodoc the next time I find they are very corrosion resistent even after the coating is worn off. That's a good thing on cars that are left standing alot.

[@furiousdriving]

I didnt spot them for the Rover, I think thats what I put on the Volvo. If heat hadn't worked the next step was going to be the grinder!

[@maxidyne]

This went relatively easy for a car that sat so long. I've encountered worse as a mechanic, worst one was a days work to get all 4 corners loose and replaced. Insane! Did you use copper slip on the sliding pins? Awesome job Matt.

[@alistair1023]

Nice to see good progress with the convertible, I've always had a soft spot for a R8

[@furiousdriving]

thanks..out of interest .how did you find this, it should be hidden?

[@pumagepard9592]

super well done

[@stevenjones19-m8i]

Hi Matt, considering the age of the car,they came apart quite easy,the Rover Cabby should now stop better than before.

[@ukmud6218]

I keep looking at auto doc but been unsure if I will end up with nothing or a wish sze disc brake. Seems they are OK, 👍

[@furiousdriving]

haha no they are legit, Ive had a few bits from them and always been good - better than Eurocarparts!

[@jamesbarnes4619]

why put all the rusty crap back on without sorting it out

[@dombooth86]

Awesome vlog as usual I do love a quentin tinkering video

[@mattsbeamer]

Is it Quentin because of the rust it had. As in Quentin crisp?

[@minidriversouthsweden5137]

Quentin is going to be tip top shape in no time. Some paint on the drivers side wing and some polish and he’s good to go.

[@johnrobbo69]

Almost professional Matt. If that had been Hubnut there wouldn't have been induction tools there'd have been a small camp fire under the hub. (Joking Ian if you read this)!

[@nellyjon423]

Do love your videos, always a pleasure to watch 👍👍

[@furiousdriving]

Thank you!

[@Kenny_P_abz]

Check out South Main Auto for multiple rusted on brake discs - you need big nasty. Thanks for the video - very good when I’ve woken up way too early on a Sunday morning.

[@DarrenCoull]

Agreed. Also he shows how to clean up the hub properly to ensure discs are not going to be out of true, and how to check and grease up the slider pins (hope yours were nice and free - common issue that wears only one pad :-)

[@ramdonice]

@@DarrenCoull just come to say the same thing

[@DashCamSerbia]

Well, provide the links please.

[@DarrenCoull]

@@DashCamSerbia Handy hint: If you type South Main Auto in the KZbin search box, you will find his channel.

[@DashCamSerbia]

@@DarrenCoull I know of his channel, but you are talking about the specific video. Unless you provide a link to it, or the name of the video, it will not be easy to find the one you are thinking off. It is not lke he only has one or two brake job videos.

[@mjsdecember1990]

I wonder if previous owners of your cars watch your videos

[@markf4720]

That would be fascinating for me, I would absolutely love to see some of my old cars getting done up on KZbin!!

[@furiousdriving]

I think so as he contacted me through the channel

[@paul1153]

More progress on the Rover,best of luck with the MOT Matt.

[@alansimpson835]

Great news and very shiny. Good Ridex be a potential new channel sponsor? Good luck to you and Quentin for the MOT

[@furiousdriving]

just the odd ones here and there, I think thats the way forward

[@damaster316]

bloody hell someone was up early this morning uploading this 😂 fair play 👌

[@RSBritain]

This is pre uploaded and set to unlisted - he then sets a date and time for the video to go live.

[@furiousdriving]

haha scheduling!

[@samsdadalways888]

Hey Matt 😁

[@jonnyvt6602]

Fuel gauge still not working?

[@jinxylad71]

Quentin cooperating? Hmmm I’m sure he’s plotting something. Always good to have some spanking new discs and pads and doing it yourself. Save £100’s

[@gosportjamie]

Ah, Quentin, the car that keeps on giving... Pain, largely...

[@volvo480]

You must not be in a hurry when ordering at Autodoc, they wait 4-5 days before they even ship and then it takes another week before the shipment from Germany arrives. But is good to have a sponsor again, it keeps the lights on at Furious Driving. 🙂

[@furiousdriving]

Ive not had that kind of delay when Ive used them, these arrived in about 2 days

[@volvo480]

@@furiousdriving I think because Ridex is their own label of Chinese aftermarket production so they may actually stock that. The rest is ordered from other suppliers once you place the order, basically what they do is take it from the box where it arrived in and put it in another that says Autodoc. I have not once but twice needed to cancel my order (they do have an excellent customer service through online chat) and ask for a refund, because I really needed the parts and they hadn't shipped it after three days. But for normal and planned maintenance it is usually worth the wait. Though their "xx% discount don't miss" is a sales trick, individual prices vary daily.

[@volvo480]

@@furiousdriving this is not criticism by the way, Autodoc says it on their website that it takes 4-5 days before shipping and that you should not schedule a mechanic before you have received the parts.

[@furiousdriving]

@@volvo480 interesting, Id not noticed that, I guess they have to say that to cover themselves, its generally taken about 3 days to arrive normally

[@furiousdriving]

@@volvo480 yes it is worth keeping an eye on the discounts as there are some cracking deals, but yes they possibly dont keep everything on the shelf

[@danwaters115]

You might have burnt the grease in the front wheel bearings when using the induction heater.

[@antonioercolino6087]

I agree. The best way to get a stubborn brake disc off is wacking with a proper heavy mallet avoiding the use of heat in the hub bearing area. 🔥😉

[@DashCamSerbia]

I don't think so. The discs can get even hotter under braking.

[@furiousdriving]

Its much less of a risk with these than a torch, but as Dash Cams says, the heat from heavy braking would be more as its such a big lump of metal

[@stephencresswell4760]

Brake discs don’t need any silly little screws holding them on. Most manufacturers don’t bother with them anymore. The wheels do a pretty good job holding them on. Oh, and you need a better selection of hammers, that carpenter’s hammer is for tickling nails, not removing stuck on discs. 👍

[@DashCamSerbia]

Yeah, they are there only to keep the discs in place when you remove the wheel.

[@DashCamSerbia]

Also, since torque settings is not important for them, or whether they come loose a bit either, I would use copper grease on them so they don't seize up.

[@metalman4141]

Matt, what make is the trolley jack your using looks a good sturdy unit !

[@furiousdriving]

thats a Draper, beast of a jack - theres a link to it in the description

[@metalman4141]

@@furiousdriving Thanks Matt 👍