Quick 3D Resin Printing Tip: Remove prints without ruining your bed level

[@mrphon3z]

Hey Ty just wanted to say the community you've helped cultivate is amazing, anyone who hasn't popped on the discord should. Super Helpful, lots of great info.

[@ChristianCarlo]

I envy how easily the print separated from the plate, last time I did it I had almost resort to use an hammer.

[@Varian-Killbot]

This was definitely made at least in part due to my complaining lol. Thanks for the video, very appreciated

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Hehe. I dont know if this solves it, but I figured i could take 2 minutes and make a quick video.

[@av2245]

If you never want to stress about scratching the build plate, place a plastic scraper at the edge of the printed part base, then a slight tap with a mallet or small hammer. They pop right off. This works extremely well with rafts that have an angled edge.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Oh good tip!

[@redline3090]

I've used this technique with great success. I only ever level my build plate when I change my FEP. 👍

[@hightde13]

Something I think more folks should try is swapping out their spatula for a chisel. 1 to 2 inches, as long as you get depending on what size your build plate. It has a nice flat back so you can keep it flush with your build plate and the nice taper down to thin edge is about perfect for popping items off your place with minimal force. This was an old 'tip/trick' for FDM printing before flex plates and I decided to give it a try on my resin machine and it works amazing.

[@KingUsyk]

Hey there I've been printing since 2015 and I run my own commercial print shop. In my experience plastic razor blades are far safer for you and the build plate. If you need something as heavy duty as a metal chisel, tune your bottom layer exposure times till the part isn't welded on. Good luck and happy printing 🙂👍

[@hightde13]

@@KingUsyk It isn't really about being heavy duty I've just found it to just work all around better than every other option I've tried. It takes very little pressure to slide it under fdm or resin prints so it has been far safer for me to use than metal spatulas and scrappers. It isn't like I'm having to happer away it to chip of prints it just appears to have just the right angle and thin ness of edge to slip in and pop prints right off without having to chip away at it, no matter how loose or tight my first layer is.

[@dbresson]

With my Elegoo printers, when they come out of level it's not because of how I take the prints off (I use a removable magnetic plate), but rather it seems that if I ever leave my printers idle for a long time (so, say I don't print on it for three/four weeks) when I come back to the print after a long period of time like this it's usually come off level (naturally?) over time and needs to be re-leveled again. I've seen this several times with both my Mars 3 and Saturn S.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

I cant imagine how that could happen, how strange.

[@IPrint3dMinis]

Wow, never heard of knocking the printer off-level taking prints off. How hard are they pulling them off?

[@davidkvick5232]

How did you get the parts off so easily? I have to really pry mine off. Been trying to figure it out.

[@o0Takeno0o]

I use a Plastik Kirchen scraper with changeable blades and do the same with great effect. Also as sidenote, it helps to use a raft with angled sides and if you print on plate add a little slope on one side of the part so that the scraper has a chance to get under the print and let the wedge shape do the work

[@TableFlipFoundry]

This is excellent advice. This is the only raft we use for pre-supports for this exact reason.

[@trashdragonhobbies9302]

More workflow videos!!!!!!!

[@jb1139]

Could you discuss changing the FEP? I ruined my original FEP and have had a hell of a time trying to install a new one. Just can't seem to get it right despite looking at a couple dozen videos. The top layer keeps getting scrunched up during the print and I don't understand why. My intuition tells me I am still making it too tight, despite using a spacer and everything. It's kinda made me give up for the time being cuz I don't have time to constantly be changing FEPs. :( I have an Elegoo Saturn.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

When you say...top layer... I want to make sure you know, the fep usually has a protective cover on it, that you're supposed to remove before installing.

[@houseoflatin]

Im about to purchase my first 3d printer for designs and practical prints, one thing that is holding me back is that it seems you are forced to pay subscriptions for certain printers. Im new to this and I would like to use open source slicers if possible, not to subscribe or be locked out of using free alternatives. I mean one already pays for the machine and the resin, adding subscriptions to it all is not something Im planning to do. Would love to hear your take on this. (btw the printer i was thinking of is the Saturn2) Cheers/Ed

[@TableFlipFoundry]

You definitely can do that. Chitubox and Lychee both have free versions. Unfortunately you will just lack some advanced functions that are quite useful. The development on those slicers takes a team and a lot of money to work on so, their businesses have to make money to continue to innovate this industry.

[@houseoflatin]

@@TableFlipFoundry i understand, many thanks for taking the time. Regards

[@perildice]

I use a plastic putty knife rather than metal just because I don't trust myself not to eventually gouge the build plate.