Quick and Easy Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon Rack and Pinion Replacement

[@diy_automotive]

Diyautomotive.blog Seals used in video - amzn.to/3Te1vg9 Gm line seal # 2610-0863 You need TWO seals On 4WD vehicles, support the front carrier and remove the drivers side mounting bracket-to-frame bolts. Move LH side of the front carrier rearward enough to remove the gear.

[@dalemihocik4732]

Nice job with the video, best by far on the Colorado. Too bad there isn't one out there as good as yours on the 4x4 which has a few more steps in replacement.

[@diy_automotive]

I appreciate the feedback! Hopefully, we will get one in that's 4x4. I was actually hoping for this video to be a little bit better, but I had some issues with the recordings the day I repaired this colorado.

[@scrambledlegz4894]

What are the other steps needed for a 4x4? I’m about to do that job for the first time lol

[@diy_automotive]

I'll try to look in service information when I have time, maybe @dalemihocik4732 can share some knowledge as well

[@diy_automotive]

On 4WD vehicles, support the front carrier and remove the drivers side mounting bracket-to-frame bolts. Move LH side of the front carrier rearward enough to remove the gear. From service information, it looks like the main additional process is taking the driver side carrier loose so you can move it, allowing the rack and pinion enough room to come out.

[@Gillty1]

Thank you! Keep up the good work in sharing and creating an on point video instruction and narration. Liked and subscribed, and a ton of knowledge gained on the subject.

[@diy_automotive]

Thanks for the feedback!. I am glad you found the video useful. Hopefully, you will find some of the others useful as well

[@wayneyeo186]

I need to redo the seal on the oil pan, and rumor has it, the only way to do that, is remove the rack and Pinion. Hence, my arrival here. That is a very nice explanation of what needs to be done. I have more homework to do. Thank you.

[@diy_automotive]

Looking at repair data, they suggest removing the main rack and pinion bolts so you can pull it down enough to access everything. It mentions "only bolts" indicating it's not required to fully remove or disconnect lines. If it would be easier to just remove it and get it out of the way, is a different story, though 😅. Best of luck with your project. If you have questions, feel free to post them here. If getting more information and tips on these kinds of things interests you, you should check out my new blog and sign up for the news letter. Diyautomotive.blog Thanks again for watching!

[@wayneyeo186]

@@diy_automotive That makes life considerably easier. Thank you for the quick reply !

[@diy_automotive]

@wayneyeo186 you're welcome

[@jonathanpirillo7910]

do you connect the steering lines before you bleed the system or after?

[@diy_automotive]

Before

[@tapullinggaming1167]

Great video Definitely got me some good information for when I go to replace my steering rack on my 07 Colorado that has been turned into a TWD pulling truck. I've still got the factory front end setup just the suspension has been taken out so steering and everything like that is steel factory. Your has definitely helped me out.

[@diy_automotive]

I'm glad the video helped, good luck! If you run into any snags I'll be happy to help how I can

[@thomasjanetos9779]

Very nice, this is a good visualization for me. I have a coil spring 2wd truck so it's pretty close if not exactly the same. I know the tie rod thread diameter is different on 4wd/torsion bar trucks, 14mm compared to 16 on the coil spring 2wd I think. The rack on mine has always leaked but it's starting to be of concern. Just put new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links and bushings in along with new hub assemblies, rotors and pads this past summer. It needed all of it.Trying to take care of the old canyon, it's got 226,000mi on it now. Probably could put a new pump or reservoir on it too since it seems to have leaked out the cap at some point. The power steering itself works great but I think when it's at full lock it's spitting fluid out the boots. Tires rub sway bar and frame at full lock just barely. I try not to turn it that far but it happens. Fluid smells just as burnt as it could be. Was that a reman rack or brand new? Now that I see this video, it really doesn't seem too crazy to think I couldnt do it on jackstands in the garage. Great video thank you!!

[@diy_automotive]

Thank you for the kind feedback! There's some extra info on this truck 😅 it's a 2wd with torsion bars and has a little over 500k miles on it. Hahahaha, still runs strong. I believe the process is pretty much the same, even with the coil spring trucks. Changing the pump isn't bad at all, and both jobs can easily be done on jack stands. The rack was a "new" rack from Detroit axle, it felt a little rough when I was bleeding the system (turning wheel back and forth to get air out) but when the truck is running its smooth. Customer supplied rack and seems happy so far, time will tell. I would read reviews on your options of buying a rack and look for one preferably with a life time warranty. Keep in mind that with online parts stores if they warranty out a part they usually require you to ship faulty part back, then they inspect it, then if they decided to warranty it, they ship the new part to you. If they honor their warranty this can still leave you with a vehicle torn down for a week or two waiting on shipping and then to accept the warranty claim. This is the main reason I personally try to go with a local store, they can typically have you going the next day.

[@thomasjanetos9779]

@@diy_automotive Yep even on rockauto it seems like mostly remans for sale, I'll definitely look local now though. I don't want to be shipping anything back and forth, and I do most of the work on my truck on weekends so there's at most 2 days downtime. Try to get absolutely everything together and ready before I start! Lol I can't stand not being able to drive it. 500k miles is awesome, I hope I can get mine to that point. Rear main seal is leaking and I need to clean the valve cover up. The PCV hose that attaches to the resonator box is leaking all over it. Transmission is starting to have some odd behavior so I've been trying to go easy on it...I'd be going down the road at 3/4 throttle, around 60-70mph, and it's like it won't shift up out of 3rd, gets stuck, I let off the gas and all of a sudden it bangs into a lower gear, makes a terrible feeling and sound, rpms jump way up. Idk it's probably due for a rebuild. Otherwise it's a good runner and that suspension work has got it feeling real nice!

[@gabrielcontreras-r6k]

Thanks for the video really has helped me to get prepared of whats ahead of me. My Colorado has 357000 plus and she needs this.. 😜😜😜

[@diy_automotive]

The one in the video has a little over 500k 😅😅 they're tuff little trucks

[@12345GERARDO6789]

Great Video!, do you by any chance have a picture of how the “gasket” looked/looks? And How many Liters/Quarts of Power Steering Fluid did it take overall once Installed?

[@diy_automotive]

I posted the part number in the description if I'm not mistaken. You should be able to do a Google image search, and hopefully, that'll help. If I can find the extra seals I bought I'll take a picture of them. The amount of fluid required will depend on how dirty your system is and how long it takes to flush. Typical buying a gallon jug should get you done and have some extra left

[@12345GERARDO6789]

@@diy_automotive thank you very much!

[@96200sxser]

@diy_automotive do you think it's possible to replace the rack and pinion bushings without total removal? Maybe one at a time? About to dive into this job, rack itself is good, bushings are shot

[@diy_automotive]

@96200sxser the rubber mount bushings? If you can get them i think there would be a good chance. If i recall correctly, one side is a clamp style, so that'll be easy. The other is an actual bushings. I think you can take the mounting bolts out and have enough room to work. The drill bit to remove bushing trick would probably get it out, if not just drill the old bushing out. Putting the new bushing in, you could probably rig up a c clamp to press it in

[@96200sxser]

@diy_automotive appreciate the quick response and advice. Have a good one buddy

[@diy_automotive]

@96200sxser you're welcome, good luck!

[@guzman4572]

Great video thanks so informative

[@diy_automotive]

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

[@Vet-zj5lq]

Does the new rack come with the seals or need to buy separately? Thanks

[@diy_automotive]

My rack didn't. From the few people I've talked to doing this job, their rack didn't include them either.

[@Vet-zj5lq]

@@diy_automotive thanks man!

[@Vet-zj5lq]

@@diy_automotive how many do I need?

[@diy_automotive]

2 in total

[@Vet-zj5lq]

@@diy_automotive thank you!

[@maritzaleonard7931]

Is this close to changing 2019

[@diy_automotive]

I'm not sure, I'll look when I get back to the shop in a few hours

[@vetracer5046]

That actually dosent look to bad of a job….guess I’m doing this sat😂

[@diy_automotive]

Just don't forget the new seals 😅

[@rbarq1971]

not quick and easy if is 4x4

[@clintpeterson9028]

Yes

[@officalzgamez3866]

Not true. I got mine out pretty easily lmao.. had 2 take my electronic actuator out n that baby slid out sideways took n hr n a half

[@Dale-i1l]

@@officalzgamez3866 Am I understanding you right? You were able to remove the rack on a torsion bar 4x4 truck without having to move the front differential out of the way by removing the actuator to gain the clearance you needed?