Quick & Easy Mortises

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Yesterday, a member of our Guild Facebook group described some difficulty they were having while making mortises with a hand-held router. This is something I do quite frequently and the person jested that I make it look too easy. Like anything, making mortises gets easier with practice but I believe anyone can find success with this particular process if they just follow some simple guidelines. So I decided to whip up a quick video that breaks it all down. And because I can't stand when people/companies create acronyms and then force words into them, I'm proud to bring you LTBD (pronounced ltbd).
Layout
Without proper layout, you won't know where the mortise is supposed to go and you won't be able to set up your router properly. So I always fully layout one of each size mortise I need in my projects. If there's more than one of a particular mortise, I only lay out start and stop lines since my edge guide holds the router a specific distance in from the edge.
Tools
I recommend a decent plunge router, an edge guide, and a nice sharp up-spiral bit. Here's the bit I used in this demo: amzn.to/2rlQTMp
Unfortunately, not every router manufacturer makes an edge guide, but common brands like Bosch, DeWalt, Festool, and Porter Cable have them available. There are also after-market edge-guides available like this one from Milescraft: amzn.to/2sy8Yeq
Balance
The narrower the workpiece, the more difficult it will be to balance the router. So it's a good idea to double up or even triple up on your workpieces to provide extra base support. I often offset the support piece so it not only prevents the router from tipping side to side, but also provides additional support front to back (especially hand for mortises that are near the end of a workpiece).
Direction
Although mortise routing involves surrounding the bit with wood, you should still pay attention to your router direction. I recommend pushing the router away from you moving left to right. This keeps the router moving against the rotation of the bit and should yield a better cut, as the router tends to pull into the work keeping the fence tight against the workpiece.
If you follow LTBD, there will be very few workpieces you can't safely and accurately route a mortise into. Get some practice with this technique and before you know it, you'll be mortising everything!
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[@rafaelmijares9197]

Just finished my first 16 mortises EVER. Followed the procedure exactly. Marc, you would be proud at how they came out! Thanks for the millionth time.

[@zerobambiro]

Perfect. That was just what i was searching for. For me it looks more logical to drill the endpoint first and then the start, so you can continue right away.

[@dufreebell]

Best of the best video. There can be no better way to keep it this simple, yet informative. The video angles are great. I’m a beginner to use a router but gained confidence after watching your video. Thanks for sharing the tutorial.

[@jimw544]

Mark, Thank you for what you do! I just finished cutting 32 mortises. My first! and they look good. But I must admit I marked the layout for all 32. OK, I got carried away. Each mortise was 2-1/4 X 1-1/4. I used a template and drilled them out first. I guess if I had a spiral bit I could have skipped the drilling. I hope you do tenons next. Please.

[@steveward53]

I'd recommend getting an extra guide fence and using the pair to prevent any sideways drift by running one on each side of the work , been using a double fence on my trusty GOF 1700 to rout locks in doors for thirty years now , takes maybe a minute as opposed to the dinosaurs that still drill and chisel them in ... :-)

[@ImACarpenter]

Wow, Mark, thanks for sharing this great tutorial on making quick and easy mortises! I've always found mortising to be a time-consuming and fiddly process, but your technique using a plunge router and a simple jig looks like a game-changer. Your step-by-step instructions are clear and easy to follow, and I appreciate the close-up shots that show exactly how to position the router for each cut. I'm excited to try out this method on my next project and see how much time and frustration it saves me. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your videos!

[@SOLT_Mark]

A while back I purchased a router guide (CRB7 by MPower Tools) and mortises have been an absolute breeze ever since. It is one of the best tools I have ever purchased. I have no affiliation with them but just love the tool so I'm spreading the word. It sure made my life easier.

[@ryanhirschey]

Great tips for mortising without needing to make a jig. I like the suggestion to rout full depth on each end so you can feel the edges.

[@ronhau1542]

I was seriously considering a mortise machine but I watched another video you did on mortises 16 years ago. You covered both ways but this seems easier and a lot cheaper. TY!

[@JS-yz3id]

Love how simple you made it. Especially the repeated mortises with the start and ends

[@donvanco3078]

I really hope this is going to be followed up with "Quick & Easy Tenons"!!

[@ManuX]

was gonna say the same thing

[@martinoamello3017]

Don Vanco They're floating tenons. Either buy them premade or make them with a router and roundover bit.. then just cut to length.. I've been using a chisel and mallet all this time, but it's time consuming.. I might actually start using my router someday after I evict the bird that built its nest behind it on the shelf.

[@kristopherdb]

pics or it didn't happen

[@ItSeemsDark]

i was about to ask you if you are Italian from Italy , then i saw a video on your channel, and nope , your english is to god to be a born and raised in Italy :) Anyway , greatings from Parma ;)

[@hypnolobster]

He's got at least one video specifically about cutting tenons, but yeah I do agree. I think people would like that.

[@TomKaren94]

If the width of the mortise matches the width of the bit, which it will in many cases, the direction of the rotation means nothing. The real concern is being able to stop the router at the ends of the mortise. To give more control, don't take more than about 3/8" in depth on each cut. That will minimize the grab. Plunging the holes at start and stop is very helpful, as shown in the video. Easier still... clamp stops to your workpiece.

[@woodwhisperer]

+TomKaren94 rotation direction always matters.

[@peteduncan921]

My thoughts exactly. It would seem that, along the axis of travel, one side of this bit is "pulling" in the direction of travel while the other side is "pushing" back. Wouldn't those two forces tend to balance when moving in either direction?

[@MuyGordoGato]

Rotation matters because of the router guide that rides along the side of the work piece. If you could put it on the other side of the router, you'd want to go in the other direction. It may not seem intuitively apparent, but if you go in the wrong direction, the guide will want to drift away from the piece. You can keep it against it, but you really need to pay attention. Do a hundred of these on a baby crib or something, and you'll know what I mean. Unless you want a curved mortise, you may want to listen to the man. I found this out myself, and created a few new curse words in the process.

[@peteduncan921]

You are probably right about the importance of rotation direction, but the unanswered question is WHY it is important in this application. The explanation given in the video is not accurate, as that example does not apply to the forces at work in a "plunge" cut. If the bit was moving right-to-left in the plunge cut shown, the rotating "leading edge" (arc) of the router should tend to pull the router toward the fence. This force can cause the fence to lose contact with the guide, resulting in the curved mortise that you describe. Moving the router left-to-right, in this example, has the cutting forces pulling the router fence toward the guide, which would tend to help maintain a straight cut.

[@ralphconnell8163]

Very helpful. The advice about moving the Router away from one is good. I've been doing it the other way..and losing control. Thanks. this is a very clear video.

[@BrainFizz]

I always enjoy your humour! Couple of points though mark, you don't "need" an up spiral bit, std two flute straights will quite happily route mortices all day long quite happily, although up spirals do help clear deep narrow mortices, people will be in danger of thinking they should go out and get an expensive STC bit when the two flute they have will be fine. Also you say "move the router left to right, push don't pull". But this only applies with the exact same setup you have. With the fence referencing on the front face, but standing on the other side of the router, I should pull, not push. With the fence referencing on the back of the work, You would have routed right to left, from the camera POV, a far simpler way to remember if the same with a bearing guided cutter with the direction of cut being anti clockwise around the outside.... with this in mind, our router fence is also referencing on the outside of the work, so it too should travel in an anti-clockwise direction. Pushing, pulling or twisting side to side becomes irrelevant and only a matter of personal comfort. Also, you move the fence away from the cutter to widen a cut, this keeps subsequent cuts direction of cut the same.

[@woodwhisperer]

My goal was to keep the video short and sweet. If you try to cover all of the various positions and work orientations, people quickly go cross-eyed. My hope is that if people hear me say, "always go left to right and push away from your body", they'll realize the ramifications of putting their body on the other side or possibly putting the fence on the other side of the work. For the bit, I think you must have better bits than I have. While my two flute straight bits can indeed cut mortises, they aren't happy about it. They tend to burn when being plunged into the work and they provide more resistance and friction throughout the cut. So if someone is looking to make mortises as easily as I make them and in the quantity I make them, I do feel a spiral bit is highly recommended. Just like a plunge router isn't totally necessary, but highly recommended.

[@BrainFizz]

The Wood Whisperer "line the fence up on the edge of the work, and route along the mortice ensuring the fence is traveling in an anti clockwise direction along the work". Yes spirals clear the chips better, but they aren't needed. I never care about a bit of burning in a mortice, I either cut slightly less per pass, or just fill it with a tenon.

[@aligned4good]

You are amazing at explaining the process so it is easy to understand. I have been avoiding making mortises...I may give it a go now. Thank you!

[@philipvale1674]

Hi are used to do this years ago all of the mortises for mortise and tenant joint and sometimes for locks but a better way to do it is actually buy a second fence and make sure the rods are long enough and put the second fence on the other side that way you can centralise the router. And it will stop it from cracking on wondering off-line and if you're coming to the end of a piece of wood it is best to put another piece of wood the same thickness but up against the end so you can run through it further without the router dropping off the end. And I hope you're wearing a dust mask a defenders and I protection I'm sorry to go on a bit but I'm 68 years old retired living in France in lockdown ,. 17 April 2020. Anyway keep up the good work. Regards Phil from the Moulin in France

[@cozydram1]

some times we forget...the simpler methods.....thank you for reminding me.....cheers mate

[@MorRobots]

Mark I haven't been keeping up lately. That was not a 1,000 Festool router.. then I remembered you decided to step down the price point of your everyday tools to help with your channel appeal since anyone using a 1,000 router is likely not checking KZbin for mortise advice and people enjoy seeing things made with tools they are likely to own (Your words). This type of video and format has a similar and enjoyable aspect to it.

[@bobbg9041]

MorRobots screw that I wanna see the 10k dollar tools being used so I can Drool

[@robertjohn527]

Regarding the image on wood over your left shoulder, have you done a video on how you made that? If not, will you?

[@johnsanchez5484]

Great video, I am looking forward to graduating to this type of joinery very soon in my DIY lifestyle. Just so you know an acronym is an abbreviation that spells something readable. For example, DARE (Drug Abuse Resistance Education) 4 letters that mean different things, an abbreviation, that also spells out a word which makes it also an acronym.

[@woodwhisperer]

Hey John. That's the whole point of the joke. Did you notice that I actually "pronounced" it as a word? I do know the difference between acronyms and initialisms.

[@cando9609]

Thanks, Marc. I still have to bang mine out with mallet and chisel, but whether using a plunge router, hollow chisel mortiser, or whatever, the "L" part is probably the most critical. If your layout is off then it'll show in your project. Thanks for sharing these tips!

[@gav2759]

If the mortise needs to be central, it's good practise to route from both sides. You don't to do many to make it worthwhile making a stabilising jig to help with the tipping problem, side to side and particularly over the end.

[@wam2b]

Gotit. Lieutenant Bondage and Degredation! Perfect! I'll never forget that now.

[@fernandorosales2418]

I think one reason people struggle with the mortises is because of cheap bits. I used to have trouble because I thought I couldn't afford expensive bits so I bought some spiral bits at Harbor Freight. Big mistake. Might as well try to cut a mortise with a sea shell and a kitchen knife. What do you expect when you get a set of 3 spiral bits for $7. One good bit was $50 and it cuts like butter. Never again.

[@tashapalmer4519]

Cut some motrices using a forstner bit and chisels yesterday avo. Now I’m going to get out my router and do the rest. Thank you 🙏

[@justinsjourney431]

Nice video and description! Thanks! Your videos, as well as others have inspired me to try my hand at my woodworking hobby. Starting with nothing and working my way up was intimidating, but the KZbin community helped me gather the courage to try! Subscribed! Thanks for all the wonderful info!

[@peterdiegenant3412]

Finally a simple explanation and thanks for that. I think this is the simplest way and had already tried everything before. Cool.

[@redwards2006]

Must mortise videos don't go into detail and this one did. Thanks for sharing

[@DEEPCONTACT]

Yes I was watching the video and I think that my mind was so preprogramed that there was going to be a tenon part that It came like a shock when I was seeind that the video was coming to an end...hope you have the time to do an easy tenons too. Thank you stlll for this video...greetings from Canay Island.

[@icyfountain9428]

your video is great for someone like me who doesn't have professional tools. I'm inspired to try making the mortises and tenons on the door I am building.

[@dusbus2384]

Best explanation of a climb cut

[@davidcurtis5398]

I just use a Mor-tend jig. This has been serving me well for over 10 years and is almost fool proof and I have made many pieces of furniture with it. It takes about 3 minutes to make the mortise.

[@TheTobs50]

Your instructions are clear, explanations helpful and examples very helpful. Thanks a lot , will be practising this today.

[@RIYAD.MAHMUD.1231]

Brother is feeling very good. I really needed this video

[@slowerpicker]

Also: Look Twice Before Drilling. Nice, quick video!

[@DepakoteMeister]

In English (as spoken by the English in England and many others across the Commonwealth), an acronym is a PRONOUNCEABLE word, e.g. radar, laser, FLIR, NATO. What you refer to is an initialism.

[@danielwinsor6018]

Did you not hear the man's flawless pronunciation of the word LBTD??

[@FranksDIY]

Great explanation . I still need some practice .Pushing against the left side now makes sence

[@pjtsr]

Nice! Straight to the point instructional video without the special effects and bullshit. Therefore, I will stay as a subscriber.

[@TheWoodLab]

Such an easy to pronounce acronym! haha. Good note on using one hand at the bottom of the base. I've done that and it does feel like it gives me some more control. - Jim

[@SilverBack.]

Hi Mark GREAT tutorial any chance of a series on easy ways to make joints

[@magrildz]

I'll name my son Lutibbuduh.

[@adamholder]

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been struggling with a mortice attachment on a pillar drill with no success at all.

[@mdtabish9150]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2jMap-mhLSjedU

[@ivans7406]

If you have multi pieces just make a simple jig, screw three wood stops on the stabilization piece . Two for the router on the top one on the side for the positioning of working piece .

[@qigong1001]

The LTBD community would like to thank you for this PSA.

[@86c5corvette]

I think we need a LTBD march in Washington for equal rights for the LTBD community.

[@teaneys1]

@@86c5corvette That's a great idea! We've definately been discriminated against and are victims. We need action!if people don't believe in mortis and tennon joints then they are spreading hate.

[@bgthemaker]

Now we want a quick and easy tenon video!

[@EvanAndKatelyn]

LTBD - looks totally badass dude!

[@siriosstar4789]

paid comment ? hmm?

[@woodwhisperer]

Paid comment?! BWAHAHAHA!

[@briarfox637]

I used to use forstner bits on a drill press to drill a mortise and then clean it with a chisel but this is so much better imo.

[@ScottBelleriWorkshop]

Thanks Mark, now I finally have a use for the turret control on my router...

[@ToddAndelin]

The upcut bit is where its at. I use an Onsrud 1/4 inch bit.... love it.

[@rjrombal]

Thanx! You remain incredibly composed & articulate. Keep up the good work!

[@carasmussen27]

just found this. Thank you for explain that and showing how it is not that difficult to do.

[@stephentorri1233]

If you put a dust collector addon to the router it should provide you some protection for your fingers.

[@Socalcheeze]

I was hoping you were going to punk us with the multirouter. sweet apron home skillet.

[@normanmabaso5269]

Thanks brother your teachings are unique , understandable.

[@Customsmaker]

Great video and description of the process! Thank you!

[@vicsmith7006]

Could you make a video tutorial on the Bosch router? It would certainly help me out and other new woodworkers. Thanks.

[@bobbg9041]

To the end holding the router low for better balance, that's how the tip of my middle finger got into a turning router bit and it cut into the tip of my finger wile using a trim router with a 1/2" round over bit only sticking out about a 1/4" I was holding the router low to lower my center of gravity and gain better control. I seriously think manufactures should look at covering 100% of the bit area so there no way with the clear covers on you can get your finger near the tool. And on a larger router put a handle you can change its location on to where you want it. I don't see why routes can't be worm geared like a 4" body grinder. Or one you can change angles with.

[@davidroberts2771]

Use a pillar drill with a bit the same size as your mortice then just trim the rest with a chisel. Essentially using a morticer. Easy.

[@briarfox637]

Thanks for the vid. The acronym was awesome! Don't think I'll ever forget LTBD

[@santiledez07]

I didn’t think woodworking was one of Jordan Schlanskys various tasks and duties.

[@JonnyDIY]

Thank you! 👍

[@motzemog]

Great info. Next with the multi-router.

[@maxgonzalez81]

I like that sound LTBD 😂 , I even got it memorized now

[@ahmadefendi4252]

loopc.kIpf88liioppressorkIpf88liioppressorp llokylo. l

[@MrSwingJamie]

On the first pass, it looks like you only plunged to about 1/3 the depth of the bit. If so, did you make multiple passes? I just cut my first mortise with this method, but lowered the bit gradually with each pass. I'd like to be as efficient as possible, but I'm guessing that plunging the full 1 1/4 inches (the max for this bit) in a single pass would be unsafe. I'm sorry if this was addressed elsewhere, but I couldn't find it. Thanks for such a professionally made video.

[@tcbridges]

Love you work and teaching us new bee's. Do you recall exactly the bit you used in this video

[@robd7703]

Thank you, well done video and right to the point.

[@angeldejesusarreaga3637]

Thanks , Master . Hello from Panama.

[@amazingkvdaily7005]

Thanks for your presentation

[@jivanildomiranda2010]

Thanks for this great and useful video. How about quick and easy tenons? Cheers from Brazil!

[@wmmwm3]

LTBD?...hmm, that rhymes with...OH!...never mind. Great mortise tips, thanks.

[@gaijintendo]

Oh, I was sort of expecting you to cover tenons too 😂

[@cyrnus]

Another reason you push with the edge guide on your right is that the leading edge of the router bit is rotating towards the edge guide and so it is pulling the edge guide tighter to the wood. If you go the other way you will be fighting to keep the guide against the workpiece.

[@woodwhisperer]

I said that. :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4vVkKesp8ZgY5Im56s

[@cyrnus]

The Wood Whisperer Ahh, I misunderstood what you were saying at that point. It sounded to me that you were saying it would tend to slip in a way that would make the mortise longer. I was thinking of preventing it from going wider or diagonal.

[@telosfd]

2:18 the point of "wood routing"! Thanks nice video.

[@tommoores1531]

if the workpiece is long enough clamp it flush to the bench in the vise for added support

[@SmolStufff]

Could you maybe do a guide on doing tenons with a router as well? I'm in Europe and we don't really do dado stacks here. Maybe some tips on how to make a jig for it? I dunno. Anyway, nice video!

[@tharagz08]

Commander Keen pic! Almost forgot about that game

[@superceci9093]

LTBD thanks, about to do a wood working table projects.

[@pbk380]

Great demonstration, Thanks

[@elkordy47]

good very very very good .thank you professor . welcome com to egypt. من مصر أحييك شكرا لك إبنى ( my soun )

[@vstm3950]

Thx for sharing. Cheers from Poland

[@SeahorseWorkshop]

NICE WORK.. ENJOYED IT VERY MUCH

[@sousaconstructionanddesign3768]

Once again. Awesome thanks. Always learning. Thanks for the tips.

[@JH-uf4ey]

Thanks for the video. This is exactly what needed

[@romarioballoon7319]

Now I learned. But hang on sec? I don't have that giant machine in my home cupboard!

[@TheLgonzal1]

Lih-Tih-Bg-DAH! If this woodworking thing doesn't work out for you, you can always become one of those people that come up with all those catchy acronyms for legislation.

[@derekpercy7787]

Brilliant! Thanks so much for sharing

[@HighOne7]

Cool! Can you show now how to make an opposite mortises that would fit these perfectly?

[@ToddAndelin]

This is a gem. Great points.

[@ilyaivanov1745]

Very useful and informative video!

[@reforzar]

My wife laughed out loud with that acronym.

[@woodwhisperer]

It just rolls off the tongue!

[@sokeenmalik6066]

@@woodwhisperer prac

[@headlyredbear9128]

If you are new to routing, keep your hands on the handles.

[@jewermank8536]

you make such good quality videos man. i was just handed down a router so ill be shopping for bits soon. any recommendations? im not a wood worker by trade but i am getting into it as a hobby

[@levigivens]

"You want a decent router" Ah I see how it's quick and easy... leaves video.

[@shade45313]

What's your way then?

[@MRrwmac]

Latudbuhda, I'm guessing that will be stuck in tudbousands of viewers heads all week. Well, Thudbahanks (see I'm already doing it) for sharing.

[@Ahmedhka]

Thank you very much for this video I really learned how to make a mortising... very helpful

[@periodcraftsmen]

Great video and information Mark.

[@damomack7970]

thanks for the instructional vids Mark, missed them :)

[@TheWoodWerker]

TFSBDYR!...(Thanks For Sharing Big Daddy You Rock!) LOL! Thanks for the tip on plunging to max depth on the starting and ending cuts! Have A Super Week!.....*Gus*

[@nickk1502]

What up-spiral bit are you using there? Super helpful video man!

[@tassie7325]

Surely, when cutting a slot with a router, on one side the bit will be rotating against the rotation while the other side is rotating with the rotation. Ergo pushing away or pulling towards you make no difference.

[@dilipnilakhe5443]

Thanks for teaching, it definitely helps

[@mr.nobody9630]

Excellent tutorial.