Quick Tip #11 Self Soldering Heatshrink Tubes with Adhesive

[@saccaed]

These should be in everyone's tool kit if they do anything electrical. I ended up buying a 1000 piece kit and have not regretted it. Cars, boats, random electrical projects. Heat gun is definitely the way to go for joins. For cars especially I've had these save so much time splicing wires in awkward places where getting a solder gun would be near impossible.

[@CraigHollabaugh]

Those things are great. I used them on a solar project, was skeptical at first but turns out they're simple and fast.

[@hypnolobster]

I've found that it really pays to buy decent quality versions (or test the ones you get). A couple different ones I've tested don't actually flow any solder into the joint. Obviously still functional but not as good as I hoped.

[@madeinbasement]

Thanks! I gave up on these cause they took forever to melt. I see you are using 500C. I didn't dare go that hot, I will try it again thanks! :)

[@gordon6029]

Pretty slick

[@tuskiomisham]

I've seen these, but i always thought they were a cheap gimmick. I'll give em a shot

[@ProtoG42]

This is the kit of solder seal wire connectors I use: amzn.to/35DW0NZ This is my hot air rework station: amzn.to/2TSMeVp

[@tablatronix]

These always pop up in my searches and I always assumed they were crimps, never bought any.. I recently learned that its solder and was sold.

[@kubaxd25]

You shouldn't turn off the hot air like that, if you would turn it off as it is meant to be (putting it on the included stand) the air will cool the heater first and then turn off, making it last longer.

[@ProtoG42]

I just checked the manual and you’re right! It says not to turn the unit off until it drops below 100C. I’ve just been turning it off like this for years now, thanks!

[@saccaed]

Heh. I have a Makita heat gun that is older than I am and I personally have witnessed contractors throwing it to each other and missing. Think is built like a tank and I use it daily.

[@imamagedude]

What the heck this is cool

[@notnecessary7730]

You should always stagger your splices

[@ProtoG42]

That’s good practice but as your username suggests, not necessary. I usually do that if I need to keep the diameter of the bundle smaller to pass through a channel or something like that.

[@Scott_C]

Neat! I'm going to have to pick up a box of those. Also if you want to make the YT algorithm your slave you could easily make this content into a "Short". Good Tech shorts are kinda hard to find, and when you do the viewer base skyrockets.

[@ProtoG42]

I was interested in making shorts until they changed the length from 60 seconds to 15 seconds.

[@BertVermeulen]

Big Clive did a video on these: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5_bdpevjJ2Fhpo Basically the solder does not make it all the way to the core, but sticks along the outside of the wire. The strength of the joint is only as strong as you make it before adding these. Solder is not for mechanical strength anyway, but this brittle low-temp solder certainly does not add any, and adds little to the electrical conductance. So these seem to me a little gimmicky -- about the same as a regular heatshrink tube.

[@ProtoG42]

I just watched and he used a thicker gauge wire for his tests and said at the end that for the thinner gauges it’s probably more than enough to do the job. I have to agree with him that there may not be enough solder in the ring for larger gauges like 10 gauge to completely flow. I wonder if fluxing the thicker wires first would help it flow more to the center. After seeing that, I would definitely solder higher current carrying wire and still use these because I really like the hot glue seal on the ends. I’ve only used the white and red ones that are more for signal wires and I can confirm that they definitely solder to the core. I haven’t tested larger than 18AWG.

[@ProtoG42]

I just checked and the proper use of solder sleeves is shown as an acceptable solder splice in the NASA wiring manual NASA-STD-8739.4 on page 70 and 71. You can download the full manual here: standards.nasa.gov/standard/nasa/nasa-std-87394

[@freddotu]

I'll bet you slide the tube over the wires, then twist them together and apply heat. 0:50 (grin)

[@ProtoG42]

Haha, definitely put the tube on the wires before twisting it! I meant sliding them over the joint before applying the heat. I’ve definitely had to redo standard solder splices in the past because I forgot to put heat shrink on first.

[@freddotu]

@@ProtoG42 I think if anyone has done any volume of this type of work has had that happen. At least the ramifications are much less troublesome than a gear-up landing in an aircraft.

[@saccaed]

Twist is optional. NASA extensively tested solder joins and found no appreciable difference between wires interlocked then soldered vs twisted then soldered. Their testing was related to solder join reliability for rockets. You do you though, I know too many people that swear by twists and knots or whatever else.

[@ProtoG42]

@@saccaed I mainly do it because it makes the connection easier to handle by holding everything together for me before I solder. I actually worked at NASA for two years and I usually do a lineman's splice to NASA standards. You can download the NASA manual here: standards.nasa.gov/standard/nasa/nasa-std-87394 If you look on page 70 of the manual you will see not only the linesman splice but also the solder sleeves I used in the video. For the solder sleeves, they just have the wires laying next to each other so it's fine either way but the manual is a good read for those interested.

[@saccaed]

@@ProtoG42 Thanks for link. The manual I remember reading through was from the 70s or 80s. This is much newer.

[@imajeenyus42]

Could've used some of them recently! Had to do a fair bit of soldering just like this, extending some cables on a bit of kit. BTW if you think these are neat, wait till you see the vintage self-heating kind with pyrotechnic mixture ;-) Elemental Maker did a nice video on them here - kzbin.info/www/bejne/e56WZJKCiNWYodE.

[@ProtoG42]

Very cool, thanks for sharing that!

[@vnagaravi]

That's not a good that a silicone ring When you shrink tube shrink it will form a tight seal between wire and shrink tube It's all pressure doing it's job

[@ProtoG42]

No, it is not silicone it is definitely a thermal glue. It says it right on the front of the package.

[@EgonSorensen]

I found this DIY guide a while back, if you want to make some yourself: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aoSUqmljrpmSZ5I - 7 AMAZING Tips & Tricks with TIN for Soldering by Daniele Tartaglia