Quick Tip: 1911 Full Length vs. GI Style Guide Rods.

[@7387470]

Finally someone explained it without a motive or bias

[@slavicgondola1817]

That’s why you have to love Brownells

[@GatCat]

7387470 Well this video could have been titled...”why the full length guide rod is best.”

[@project.jericho]

I mean, Brownells sells firearms with a full length guide rod. The motive or bias is to defend their decision to sell firearms with full length guide rods...

[@future_phonk]

I was always under the impression that full length guide rods requires a tool or paperclip to be disassembled. Thank you Steve for showing us how simple it is.

[@upnorth5465]

As a gunsmith who works on a lot of 1911's. I Personally prefer the flgr. It doesn't do anything for accuracy but 1911s with a flgr cycle much smoother than one with a GI style. People who say the gi doesn't kink or bind under recoil don't understand how a 1911 functions. The flgr keeps the spring traveling in a straight forward and back motion vs. Gi will bind (because it is unsupported) and rub on the bottom of the barrel or the dust cover. Seems to me the biggest complaint of a flgr is disassembly. Something I'm willing to deal with for a smoother action. The true kicker is mr browning did lengthen the guide rod himself. It started out very short and ended up a little longer for the same reason. Something people tend to forget about.

[@gameragodzilla]

I wonder if the flat wire recoil spring helps in that regard even with a GI guide rod. Granted, I’ve only fired a FLGR in a 10mm 1911 and a GI guide rod in a .45ACP 1911 so the two round are different enough for me not to have much of a basis for comparison. But my GI guide rod 1911 felt perfectly smooth shooting.

[@stunod1479]

Steve is a great presenter.

[@grapefruiteyewash]

I swear, every gun question I search for on youtube leads me to Brownells hahaha

[@v.german11b]

High-end 1911 handguns come with stainless steel full guide rods, which most match target competitors prefer, as the pistol cycles smoother, and stays flatter during rapid fire, it also increases the life span of the guide rod. BUT, y'all do whatever you like, no problem. You do you, so do I 😎

[@milfordtrethowan2474]

The full length guide rod always made sense to me the spring can't kink or bind happily ridding the rod😂😂And take down is no big deal if you know what your doing as you demastrated thank you !!

[@milfordtrethowan2474]

@Loonytoones85 so my spell checker was on vacation so sorry !!

[@carolyn5560]

Full length guide rod just makes it harder to field strip. Not enough benefit for the extra hassle for me. But appreciate all the vids from brownells😀

[@janiceturno8175]

it make it nose heavy as well and when you try to shoot faster it makes the gun nose dive to a point where your shoots are at the bottom side...not flat as we might think off...

[@jared123123]

On that last point also helps with recoil as more weight at front of gun.. also i think people really overestimate the “extra” work to strip the full length. Its so minimal i dont know why anyone would consider that a valid point to not buy one. I can field strip mine and disassemble slide with no tools in about 30 seconds .

[@StuninRub]

@@janiceturno8175 It does not. That's only problem if you limp wrist it.

[@gameragodzilla]

@@jared123123How do you field strip a FLGR 1911 by hand? Every one I I’ve seen requires either a paper clip in the hole in the guide rod to hold everything in place, a screwdriver to disassemble a two piece guide rod, or a bushing wrench to push the recoil plug down when there’s a guide rod in the way at the center of the plunger. I’ve definitely found the GI guide rod much easier to disassemble without tools.

[@r.b.rozier9692]

​@@janiceturno8175the weight is increased by fractions of ounces. It is hardly noticeable at all.

[@nathanmcintyre8813]

I really like the idea of having changeable uppers. I have a 2 piece full length guide rod and am going to GI style but will retain it to swap out based on occasion. I am by no means a competition shooter so its more of figuring out what is comfortable with me

[@toddsmith8534]

per the US army how many reports of kinked springs were reported over the 100 years of use. =0

[@FirearmEnthusiast]

Todd Smith my point exactly

[@AGz790]

Todd Smith thank you for pointing that out I say the same thing 👍

[@wooddawg4868]

When the GI spring compresses it actually kinks very little if at all once it compresses into the gun and is secured due to the very short distance between the plunger and guide rod.

[@leroybishop2245]

You just answered all my questions 🙏

[@stuartmastroianna5642]

I've often wondered why some people are under the misconception that a full length guide rod prevents the spring from kinking under recoil. The spring stays perfectly aligned, all the time with a standard GI style guide rod. If you look closely, when the pistol is assembled you'll see that the GI guide rod protrudes just a wee bit into the rear of the dust cover. With the rear half of the spring on the guide rod, and the front half of the spring trapped and encased by the dust cover, there's nowhere for the spring to go and no way it can kink.

[@r.b.rozier9692]

Take apart your 1911 and move the action, you will see that the spring wiggles from side to side.

[@TheRealCobraBurnout]

Excellent vid

[@popie1579]

U are a real 1 thanks

[@jeffreylocke8808]

Flute the full length guide rod and flute the bull barrel if it is a bull barrel. This will reduce friction of the longer guide rod and the barrel.

[@stuartmastroianna5642]

A full length guide is not necessary at all. The GI guide rod controls the rearward portion of the recoil spring and the dust cover hanging under the front of the slide controls the front half of the recoil spring. Trapped by the dust cover beneath and on either side of the spring and the barrel above, the spring has no where to go but onto the GI guide rod. No way it can kink.

[@necessaryevilzero1885]

I beg to differ. I have just bought a second hand 1911 A1 Norinco. It has had very little use and in immaculate condition, but the recoil spring was indeed KINKED in the middle. Shame I can't post a photo of it here. I was occasionally having the slide failing to go fully into battery for the last 1/2mm. I replaced the spring with a new one and no more feed problems. So I was considering a one piece guide rod but then I thought how many springs can you buy for the price of the guide rod ?

[@appalachiangunman9589]

My Dan Wesson Specialist has a short guide rod and it’s the smoothest action of any 1911 I’ve ever owned, and the rest of them had full-length rods.

[@stuartmastroianna5642]

@Loonytoones85 The NORINCO was.

[@clarkcartwright2543]

@@appalachiangunman9589 I have a specialist in the 10 mm and I have the gI guide rod and it’s as smooth as slick can’t ask for better .

[@appalachiangunman9589]

@@clarkcartwright2543 man I bet that’s nice, I have a Glock 29 in 10mm but I’d like something like that, full size and steel frame.

[@Razor_36]

I can't stand FLGRs for me personally but if you like it and it works for you then that's all that matters. Go for it!

[@elchuco00]

Great vid! i just have to ask....did anybody noticed the change of the right eye pupil from :45 to :47 seconds?

[@420kushmaster]

De Montalvo reptillian

[@karlkanner3467]

yeah some light hit it from a different angle

[@BadGuyDennis]

It is very likely that he had a cataract and treated with an artificial lens replacement.

[@ragnarthefearless9235]

The 1911's that come stock with full length guide rods, can you change them to gi guide rods without reliability issues or other issues?? I currently have 3 1911's with the GI length but I'm thinking of buying a Springfield 1911 a1 loaded that comes with full length but I'd like to change it to GI???

[@javierespadas4956]

Changing the guide rod should from full length to g.i. style is perfectly fine, as long as you have the right parts and the right know-how

[@georgexwilson1787]

Thank you. Very informative.

[@disparity12]

Full length guide rods also keep the recoil spring from getting bound up and bringing the gun down for a hour or so until spring gets pulled out, effectively ruining it. First hand experience with that.

[@rustyshackleford17]

You know, I don't think I've ever met someone that actually happened to.

[@FirearmEnthusiast]

Rusty Shackleford Full length guide rods are gimmicks in 5 inch 1911’s. Only use these in 9mm’s or commander lengths.

[@cplbullet]

This is why I use full length guide rods so that I can swap out easy at the range.

[@jamesjones5055]

I just got a colt mkIV series 70 , older made in 1971 and has a long guide rod and double spring. Why the doublespring. It does make it harder to pull slide back to the lock position?

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

the spring pressure would be the same for your gun dual or single sprung. The 2 pc is usually thought of as a dampner. the first spring does most of the work the 2nd one just adds a bit at the max to keep the slide from bottoming out. the slide can come back faster this way except for the last inch or so.

[@harrycallahan9733]

0:12 The spring kinks *a little*, definitely not the same kind of "kink" one can demonstrate using two hands and nothing else, because other than holding the recoil spring by both ends, the spring in the gun was held in place by a third part: the dust cover. So, yes it kinks a bit, but it will only kink out of shape when you take it out of the gun. When it's working in the pistol, the dust cover keeps it moving in line, and the little bit of kink in the middle is not affecting the function of the gun in any way shape or form, hence 0:18 "It works very well and done so for over 100 years" :)

[@melvoayala6029]

1911 Ruger p89 DC the recoil spring is.11lbs standar if You change spring new 5" inch 14 lbs is better function . 9mm pistol ?

[@George-on5hi]

What do you say about a 45 commander with full length guide rod?

[@sirsidfosse1313]

What 22 conv kit was that, plz

[@44hawk28]

With the original GI recoil spring, it does not kink, or coil bind, ever, unless you have the wrong length spring in it. In that case you didn't fit the spring do the gun.

[@necessaryevilzero1885]

Robert I have been shooting since 1984 and over the years I have owned various makes and models of 1911, Auto Ordnance, Colt series 80 and Para Ordnance and I have never had a kinked recoil spring, UNTIL NOW. I recently bought a Norinco 1911 A1 in immaculate condition with very little wear or use. The recoil spring was indeed kinked giving occasional feed problems. I replaced it with a new one, problem solved. I would post a photo if I could.

[@44hawk28]

@@necessaryevilzero1885 it's possible that the recoil spring was never properly fit to the firearm, or that there was a problem in the Metallurgy or the Temper at part of the spring. It is far too proven a design for it to be much of any other cause. I've heard good bad things about the Norinco. But the M1A copy that they make, from the United States original tooling for the M14 is a nicely forged piece of work. So the Metallurgy in the firearm should be fine, both watch for cracks because I do know that they have had issues in the United States with steel that should have a certain amount of silicon in it failing because of the lack of silicon. One example is when General Dynamics started remanufacturing the M14 with you tooling they were having the bowls cracking at about 7,500 rounds. Which is a direct indication of not enough silicon in the steel to keep it ductile enough to reciprocate as a bolt. The problem was quickly solved.

[@necessaryevilzero1885]

@@44hawk28 Hello Robert, well all I can say is that when straightened out it is the same length as it's new replacement and the spring in my Colt series 80. So I don't think fitting was the cause of the spring kinking in the middle ? The Norinco 1911 is an excellent pistol. The slide to frame on this one is a better fit than my Colt. The trigger needed some work and the pistol functions perfectly and is very accurate. All for the princely sum of 195€ here in Spain. I can't help thinking how many replacement springs I could buy for the price on that guide rod ? I have never had it happen before, first time.

[@44hawk28]

@@necessaryevilzero1885 glad you got it fixed, but you can't just check length you have to check the wire thickness as well, because the same length spring with a thicker wire will bind before it recoils to the same minimum length Under full recoil. But it's water under the bridge now. For your information, slide to frame fit is actually a minor consideration in accuracy. The quickest way to tighten up a 45 put in the next length Linked In which drives the barrel up into the slide harder creating a firmer lock. I own a government model that a friend of mine built in 1979. On three occasions at the Army match at Camp Perry he fired a 597 out of 600. The next closest competitor with a government model fired in the range of 425. This firearm is probably the most accurate Government Model on the planet and the slide to frame fit is not tight at all. It is only, what people would call a service fitting. Before I had it hard Chrome it would not lock up if you rode the slide down at all. You had to drop the slide to get it to completely lock. Because I was going to carry the firearm as a daily carry gun I had it hard chromed and a different hammer and beavertail grip safety put on. The hard Chrome self lubricate turn off where it will lock yet still in a very positive and authoritative way. It is an Auto-Ordnance frame with a Brazilian slide and a military Barrel. Military Barrels have been the most accurate I've ever seen when properly fit into a 1911.

[@harolddelrosario6265]

which is better between full length vs standard guide rod

[@evilcowboy]

full length as he said it will smooth the action and working the slide a bit more and also removing the slide in a complete assembly is a big plus for using them. Lastly which he did not mention is that you can also remove the guide rod and spring by slightly tilting it up while pushing down on the lower lug of the barrel allowing you to remove all other components. This can all be done while at a range with no tools. The standard guide rod usually requires quite a bit of finagling to get it apart and is also a bit more difficult to get back together.

[@FirearmEnthusiast]

evilcowboy lmao that’s complete bullshit. The standard GI plug is infinitely easier to assemble and disassemble then the FLGR.

[@jamesallen5591]

Gray Fox I have never owned a pistol with a full length guide rod, and I've never had problems with springs. Also, everything I have ever heard from anybody who owns 1911s is just the opposite of what evilcowboy posted. The standard GI plug is way easier to work with.

[@FirearmEnthusiast]

James Allen Exactly. I think he just said it wrong.

[@jamesallen5591]

Gray Fox Good point. I hadn't considered that, but I should have. I'm mainly looking at this because I am in the market for a 1911, and one of the two or three I am looking at has the FLGR. Looks easy enough to swap out to the GI guide rod, though, so that won't be the deciding factor.

[@bernardconeghen]

why are so many people getting bent out of shape its all a matter of what you prefer I myself had a rare problrem my 30 year old 1911 LLama shot great but the recoil spring felt more like a slinky changed up full rod and spring.

[@haroldguillarawan9066]

I don't care about the shooting experience. I'm more concerned on doing quick checks on why it keeps malfunctioning without taking the whole thing apart. Especially in a combat zone.

[@RangerCaptain11A]

my 9mm 1911 always got bound up with the GI rod.

[@johndorflinger2344]

Isn't there a difference between the ejectors on the frame between the 9mm and the 40 cal?

[@brownells]

No, there is not a difference. 9mm, 38 super and .40 S&W share the same ejector. :)

[@snowgorilla9789]

Are you saving full length is better in a 9mm

[@dr.knuckles9149]

I would ask brownell to recommend but I have seen the comments and there’s no reply from Old timer

[@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521]

Mind blown. So I can use my 1911 GI lower, and just buy a new fitted slide with different caliber barrel and it still works??

[@CorkScrewDood]

No

[@mrthomaslaux1]

What happened with your eye?

[@comodice905]

Bloke puro verdad genial...pues Como que en El Dia en que LA conoci ist dein Auf Das licht is bucko tanks yank

[@user-un5my5bw4j]

I really hate when people say " the weapon was built and designed to work that way" with 1911's and AR15's. Especially in a forum where the idiot making the comment acts like doing anything other than the original design (not what he acted like though, he understands innovation works too) casuals who aren't gun smiths dont realize the advancements in machining that have progressed. I even read a guy saying how ar15 was designed to run with extruded powder where we have pretty much made it a fact by now that the gas system runs more efficient with dust powder and magnum primers.

[@calvinliong8319]

Wow you disassemble the pistol that fact

[@magvat]

swell guy

[@pathenderson3470]

Finally, intelligent life in the 1911 world!

[@steveghanbari]

Hi there, I'm living in Australia, I have a conversion question. Currently, I have a Springfield Armoury 9mm 1911A1 loaded. I would like to remove the Allen key ditch it for good and converted to GI model. I cannot purchase the parts that I require from the gun parts in Australia unless you get it from a gun dealer. None of them has the part number for the parts that I am looking for. Basically, I'm looking for the pain goes into the spring. If you decided to help me with my query, could you please let me know the part number for those two items?

[@nonyabiz9487]

I dont put full length guide rods in any of my 1911 HOWEVER my para ordnance 1911 has a FLGR also pretty much every S&W auto pistol ever made has a FLGR and those guns especially the older models are some of the most reliable and best pistols ever made! Most Berettas and Rugers also have FLGRs.

[@kevinthomas3946]

For some gun smith you are really short on information first of all you neglect to state the obvious if you have a full sized 1911 and it is one of the models with the steel slide and light weight aluminum alloy frame then your nolege of metals most certainly should come into play here your slide is made of much harder steel than the softer aluminum frame to save your frame you run a steel full length guide rod so your slide runs primarily on the guide rods steel on steel instead of steel on aluminum secondly you can not just swap out the upper on your 1911 45 lets say with your 1911 22 upper just because they have full length guide rods and expect that to be reliable you must also have a extra fully tuned mainspring housing with the appropriate spring to swap out with the appropriate caliber 1911 upper if you call yourself giving instructions and information to this community tell everything correctly after all your billing yourselves as gun smith and people are listening to this crap for advice and information so tell them all on a subject and most importantly tell them why so the viewer will understand do better on your next video

[@kevinthomas3946]

@@hkvp9tactical418 no shade I picked up a lot of info from watching you and Mr Wilson I just happen to be in the sign business and know a thing or two about metal

[@44hawk28]

At about 50 seconds and you claim that the full length guide rod creates more friction. And then at a minute 10 or so you talk about how it has less friction. Make up your mind???

[@somethingtrulyhorrifying]

^ those that thumbed up this comment only did so that others can make fun of this guy for clearly NOT paying attention to the video???