Quickly Diagnose The Most Common Fault on Ford 4.6L & 5.4L 3v Engines

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I recommend flushing your engine with this kit from BG before changing your VCT solenoids- amzn.to/2nsfvBT

[@edgleason7879]

FordTechMakuloco i have an 04 i just replaced pump timeing kit and vct solenoids , right away i noticed the idle was down at 500 and ran fine after 50 miles it started to die and got the 022 and 345 codes. unhooked the vct's it still idles below 500 but no deisel ???

[@danielbornhoeft7803]

FordTechMakuloco I thought I heard you recommend a certain type of oil to help clean an engine, but cannot remember where. is that something you've said before? I thought it was penzoil Platinum? I have a 3.5 liter duratec (edge) with 113k miles on it that has some varnish build up. the VCT and VVT s have been replaced already...

[@sueharris8303]

Can this happen at about 80km when cold and the when it warms up it goes away?

[@marcbarrera5530]

1st off I like all your videos and I have a 2007 Lincoln Navigator it is stalling and it barely makes it up the hill I ran the codes on there and it is saying that I need a new computer it runs at a 1000 dollars that I don’t have and it’s my wife truck and I just had a new born baby I don’t know what to do is there some secret tip you can give me on how to fix it and something tells me that isn’t the problem because when I push on the gas I hear something rattling by the firewall do you know what it is please let me know something kinda desperate and is very stressful thank you

[@31angadani]

Ford

[@terrykirn6023]

Brian. I have been dealing with this issue for months! Even had a shop in town look at my truck and they told me I needed a new engine....10k. They will be hearing from me on Monday! I disconnected the VCT solenoid and all of a sudden my truck runs great again. 150.00 bucks in parts and an hour to change them out and the problem is solved! I have been saving for a new engine. Now my truck is fixed and I have money in the bank! Thanks for taking the time to explain all this stuff. And.....I now know how to change my timing chains. Lol. Thanks again! You rock!

[@RickyPisano]

The BEST Ford mechanic on KZbin. Hands down!!

[@marcsongaudin8429]

That guy is great, way better than Scott channel

[@charlesmorales5737]

Just off of thiscar and I’m subscribe

[@miku-lazoshan2182]

@@marcsongaudin8429 nah My homie Scotty Kilmer is way better

[@samuelgoodman2825]

Agreed

[@bigchungus-oj8zz]

I concur, absofuckinglutely.

[@mikepine7054]

I'm currently doing a family members. You are saving people alot of money. Just have to say thanks for so many people including myself.

[@jacobaccurso]

After discovering you in the first roller follower video I saw, I’m now watching lots of 5.4 3 videos in preparation for getting my engine checked. I’m at 155,000 now in a 2007 F150. Absolutely riveting videos, all of them. I’ve learned so much and I’m no mechanic.

[@pddunegan6551]

If it wasn't for your videos over the years, I'd be screwed working on ford's. I've taken on pretty much everything in your videos and use them as a reference for sound advice. Thanks for everything.

[@jeffchilders9455]

2006 f250 5.4L, now over 427,000 miles. Original motor.

[@SangheiliSpecOp]

I just diagnosed my engine by gently driving it to work with the VCT solenoids unplugged and I got no problems on idle!!! I'm so glad I found the real culprit here.

[@shannonelmore8464]

Hands down the best mechanic and videos that have watched. I have done so many repairs on my 01 f-150 5.4 4x4 from 2 different Cal-Van inserts also using my Cal-Van Bluetooth cam to cv axle shaft, hub bearing assembly,ball joints,control arm replacements and so much more thanks to your videos...thanks so much! But due to a down 4r70w I bought a 01 Lincoln Town Car 4.6. Had to replace the cooling fan assembly right off the bat. Then I noticed my battery steaming as there was not enough water to boil out until I put some in and it boiled over badly which caused some erratic behavior,guessing due to poor power to computer. Had battery and alternator checked while in the car at oreillys and was told they were good went to town about 50 miles and on the way back is when I noticed erratic behavior. Upon arriving home thankfully is when I found water from battery boil everywhere. Do you have any suggestions because I have since lost my job due to not being able to make it to work several times. In bad need of advice on this one. These dang fords have really let me down literally. Please help. Thanks, loyal viewer

[@eriknielsen3970]

Thanks so much. You helped me more than you know. God has a gift and anointing on you, I hope you understand that you are doing a ministry here. I pray God blesses you the way you blessed our family.

[@j.l.5724]

Amen brother!!

[@gene7902]

i am 76 years old and im still trying to do my own fords= 2 mustangs & a explorer. you have helped me so much your the best best best . keep up the good honest information

[@tylerjames1716]

You still alive gene

[@Drippppppppp]

@@tylerjames1716 Weird reading comments from people that are not with us anymore. RIP.

[@matrixbill]

Hi Brian, thanks for your really great videos! On April 2015 I bought a used 2007 Ford F-150 137K miles with 5.4 3V engine (with bad top end tick knock noise) for a project. I completely disassembled the engine, including the cam phasers, VCT solenoids, and the VCT solenoid housings to learn everything I could. What I found was no oil supply to the passenger side camshaft journals and lifters. Neglected oil changes resulted in thick heavy sludge deposits and clogged the very small inlet screen filters inside the VCT solenoid housings. The filters filter the oil supply from the bottom end (block) to the heads: chain tensioners, cam phasers, and the camshaft journals and lifters. There are also small orifices that can clog inside the VCT housings and in the metal gaskets behind the VCT solenoid housings that feed the chain tensioners, and the camshaft journals and lifters. There are screens in the VCT solenoids. You have to remove the valve covers to service the VCT solenoid screens and the VCT solenoid housing inlet screen filters -- under screw plug next to solenoids. You have to remove the cam phasers and the VCT housings to service the orifices in the housings and the gaskets behind the housings. I change oil (conventional) and filters on all of my vehicles every 2,000 miles to keep the engines clean to avoid all of the above issues. Oil changes are so cheap and easy at the local oil change shop. My local machine shop line bored ALL of the cam towers in the heads to accept Dura-Bond half shell cam bearing kits FA-13R and FA-13L. Machine shop also installed thread Time-Serts (kit 32214) into all 8 spark plug holes. Installing 1-piece Champion 7989 spark plugs. I am considering to install MMR race spec steel chain tensioners with fail-safe ratchets and o-rings in grooves, to prevent gasket blowouts behind the plastic tensioners that deform. I am considering to remove all of the screens and orifices, and install a large dual parallel flow remote oil filter setup (without bypass valves so no dirt or debris bypasses the filters EVER). I hope that this helps. Best Regards, Bill Smith

[@professor_thunder]

Bill, I'm having the same issue with the RH head being starved for oil. The phasers, timing components, plugs, coils etc... were replaced before it sat for 3+ years. After it sat, I started it up and that is when the tapping started - it wasn't doing that before. What is your advice for cleaning the oil inlets without pulling the engine. Thanks for the informative post.

[@matrixbill]

@@professor_thunder Very sorry for delayed reply. No need to pull engine. :-) You have to remove the valve covers to service the VCT solenoid screens and the VCT solenoid housing inlet screen filters -- under screw plug next to solenoids. You have to remove the cam phasers and the VCT housings to service the orifices in the housings and the gaskets behind the housings. Recommend to also watch Brian's video about oil pump upgrade: The Ultimate 5.4L 3v Triton Engine UPGRADE: New Melling M340HV M360HV High Volume Oil Pumps! Recommend to purchase a genuine Ford workshop manual. You can find old paper copies on ebay. Step by step instructions with diagrams specific to your vehicle.

[@HOTSTUFF8120]

God bless you man. You just saved me from having to change my cam phasers.

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Cool!

[@wontrespond3263]

Exactly my problem. Truck runs like new with 180k. But occasionally during summer it will do this shaking at stop lights. Only when it’s hot out and it’s been working hard. Thank you!!!

[@petes.2835]

Brian. Great work you do. Former Lincoln tech here (23 yrs) Now employed by the state Department of transportation. What was your worst Dvblty nightmare? Mine was a 3.0 duratec intermittent miss at 65 under load. Long story short, it was a small speed clip stuck to the magnet on the crank sensor between the pickup ring. Drove me crazy, Showed up on the scope (IDS). Lots of hair loss. Keep up the good work. Pete

[@rocklinjohn]

Excellent overview. I just dumped $9 grand into a rebuilt short block and the installation because I had a combination of low oil pressure, multiple broken coil connectors, 1 bad phaser, plugged catalytic converter and the previous owner had changed out the timing chain and it wasn't done right. I don't know that I could ever have diagnosed and fixed all the problems myself. But this video gave me some indication that the two shops weren't lying to me. The rebuild manf'r installs higher pressure oil pumps, and better quality phasers (I have to trust them and the shop at their word, how the hell could I know) to rectify the known Ford factory problems.

[@Henchman1977]

That's the problem I was having on my 2010 Expedition with 130k miles. Once I pulled off my valve cover I could see the right side chain guide was missing.... Tensioner was blown out. Full timing job, followed your video series, including oil pump. Went really well, not terribly difficult, just awkward laying prostrate across the engine bay for so many hours. For interested Canadians it's currently (May 2022) about $2k cnd in parts, all genuine Ford except oil pump. (didn't replace roller followers, all were in good condition and about $25 each here right now)

[@squangan]

My ‘09 5.4 was starting to develop a low pitched engine noise only noticeable when the sound echoed off a building such as when going through a drive through. I changed out the VCT solenoids (and in the process found that all observable surfaces inside the engine were shiny clean and still look like new) and fortunately that eliminated the noise. The engine is quiet again and back to running as new but I’ll tell you changing those solenoids out was the absolute limit of what I want to bite off as a shade tree mechanic.

[@jasonknight6514]

Dude knows his Fords and more. Thanks man

[@nzs316]

My idle started acting up last year it’s been bugging me ever since and now it’s explained, so easy.

[@TRADERnel]

my truck broke down and I really thought I needed a motor that's how bad I thought it was and I thought wow and I really don't have the money to put into it after going through your videos I was kind of convinced it was the VCT solenoids actually found a pair with new seals on eBay original Ford parts $135 shipped I installed it and I was about to start it prayed real hard that it that was the problem and bingo it was like new so I really want to thank you for these videos I know it takes time to make so again thank you. thank you. thank you. nelson, 04-150

[@brianshafer2450]

Fordtechmakuloco. Thanks so much for All your Videos on Fords...Your have a great wealth of Accurate Knowledge that benefits all of us that own Fords....seems like so little but THANKS for all your time and expertise on Fords

[@mercedesbenzs600bash]

Do you still have the truck?????

[@glennzook3042]

I'm trouble shooting a 04 5.4 3v passenger side solenoid is wet with oil, the drivers side isn't. Can you tell me what the problem is?

[@dillonpulliam6465]

I didn't even watch your video before I changed them. I work at a parts store and all I've heard is cam phaser this and cam phaser that. I knew it had to do with the vct system so I figured I'd get the solenoids and swap them out. Took me like 10 minutes in the parking lot after work. So far so good. I was running vr1 50 sae through the engine becuase thats what sombody had told me to do and it stopped the engine from cluttering but now it's much better

[@dillonpulliam6465]

I didn't even get to the point. This video showed up in my recommendeds and watching it made me feel a lot better about everything. Thank you for your knowledge

[@Aardvark49]

You have the best Ford videos I've come across. I really like your instructional method of telling us DIYers why an issue may appear and tips for easy diagnosis. Thank you.

[@fritzmichaelusa]

Brian. I don't have this exact problem. I have the "stop and stall" problem. Stumbled across this while researching. Can the VCT also cause the stall problem as well? 2010 Ford F-150 SuperCrew XL 4X4, 4.6L 3 valve. Thanks ahead of time if you have a chance to answer this or any fellow fans of your channel. One guy said in the comments down below your channel is awesome. I agree, you are my go-to when I start researching about my truck. Thanks for your channel and you taking so much personal time to show us how to fix our Ford products correctly and easily

[@fritzmichaelusa]

And I forgot to mention that: no, there is no code set yet so I can't ascertain that way either. But that doesn't matter. Update: it set a code earlier when I was turning off the freeway. Buddy of mine hooked it up to his scan tool at the shop and now I know. Bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor. I know there's several things that can cause a truck to stall out but this can too, apparently. This is probably the wrong thread and video though. but if anyone else out there is having the same problem and a code has not set yet. It could be that as well

[@TheTruthBeToId]

I just got an 05 with a 5.4 3v and it has a rough idle and acceleration. It also has a hard time picking up speed the rps's drop and go up and the truck chokes when I try to accelerate it and the exhaust sounds like it's and old truck but, sometimes it runs smooth in idle (only) when it's cold until you get into over 3000 rps and you get a (Engine Fail Safe Mode).

[@exploringalaska3940]

Did you figure out what the issue was?

[@brandonsalinas1819]

TheTruthBeTold what was the problem???

[@kennethchersack3480]

Hello. You give the absolute best info on the 5.4 thank you. I did test engine idle back to normal changed both solenoids same bad idle. When unplug new solenoids idle is good. Low oil pressure? Failing phasers?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You have an oil pressure and volume concern.

[@camsprocket]

FordTechMakuloco I'm performing the VCT change next weekend, but I would like to obtain some more info on how to use the BG engine flush products to yield best results. Thanks

[@MrTrig55]

I am working on a copper gasket replacement for the timing chain tensioners. Also ran 2 quarts of mystery oil along with quakerstate 5w 30 high mileage for literally 102 miles (just happend to be the distance for exit and return to my buddys shop. once done then went and had work ford replace vct's and also both timing chain tensioners with factory phasers.

[@colinwatt00]

Hey Brian, can you do a video showing the “shock” process? Thank you.

[@gatorhunter1]

I used some wire alligator clips and an old fully charged ATV/ motorcycle battery. The alligator clips are usually too big, so I clipped one clip on one pin on the solenoid, then connected the second clip to a small screwdriver to contact the second pin. There's usually not a lot of room in the solenoid connector for the clips to connect to a battery. You just feed 12v to the solenoid for a second and the solenoid should free itself.

[@geniusjatt1]

@@gatorhunter1 Did it fix your problem without replacing vct solenoid?

[@chevycaprice8956]

I have a 4.6 in a 99 crown victoria the exhaust sound like plastic bags is in it at idle...?? Then acceleration it's sound like alot of plastic bags are in it????

[@tedkay1017]

Could this happen in the opposite? My 4.6 does this at speed. Feels like vapor lock or the last drop of fuel on an empty tank.

[@methardris]

I have this exact issue now and thats how i ended up here. I know it’s been 4 years since your comment but i’d love to know what happened to yours!

[@fandhtwoohs8129]

I found him, the one mechanic in existence who recommends Pennzoil!

[@OCityHardcoreBeatz]

Does this also happen to the 4.6 2v engine?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

No the 2v engines do not have vct solenoids.

[@MrMarineGomez]

Mine has a kind of rough idle, and every once in a while, start shaking violently like it wants to cut off. I’m going to change the VCT solenoid and hope it works!

[@trooper2221]

this noise with phaser coming aprart, would it be continuous ?

[@joesmith-fi1sx]

my 06 had hot idle knock knock I put these new updated - different than the ones I took out , smaller holes It cures the hot idle knock it still ticks though but the scary knock knock is gone

[@craigmahathy1718]

where is the VCT on a 1998 Ford Expedition, 5.4, Eddie Bower edition I can't find it anywhere

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Your engine does not have one.

[@98snakehorse]

So get this.... I got a 2006 F150 with the 5.4 3v. I purchased it in 2014 with 168ks on it and the first thing I replaced was the updated motorcraft VCT solenoids. This past year with 178k on it I replaced the phasers, chains, guides, tensioners and oil pump. Truck has been running fantastic and is super quite and smooth. The truck today has 184ks on it and it randomly gave me a major scare. Coming to a stop light in town the engine idled down and began to shake and shudder really bad and I had to slowly limp it home. Check engine light was flashing so I checked codes.... I got a P0018. Brought the truck in the shop and started to pull coil plugs to see which cylinder was misfiring... come to fine out all the cylinders were missing on the driver side. Scratched my head for a few minutes and found this video.... I thought to myself I guess it could be the VCT Solenoid but I just replaced them 10k miles ago. It was a long shot but I gave it a try and pulled the solenoid out to investigate. It visually looked fine until I gave it a few taps on a paper towel and saw the chunks that came out. Sprayed some cleaner in the solenoid and gave a few more taps and threw it back in the truck. Turned the key crossing my fingers and it came back to life sounding better than ever. Thanks so much for these informative vids they really help us out more than you know.

[@socramsalgado6224]

Can a bad VCT solenoid make the car lose power.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Marcos Salgado yes at times when it sticks

[@SkyHawk2729]

FordTechMakuloco First I wanna say thank you for your awesome videos. They help a ton! I have a P0340 code that keeps popping up even after changing the camshaft position sensor. (97 f150 with a replaced 2010 4.6 block) Truck idles fine with no misfires. Does not shut down or any of that sort. However, I do feel an enormous amount of power when accelerating from a stop. It gradually picks up speed. Any idea what else it could be?

[@SkyHawk2729]

FordTechMakuloco I'm sorry, (Power Loss)

[@evanswood3178]

Socram Salgado

[@dariusmitchell8427]

Dem F I need to know this also

[@lonncraw9263]

I'm watching cause I bought a truck off my cousin and he's usually pretty good at taking care of his vehicles but when you come to a stop it will stall out every so often. He told me the cam phaser where bad but I know alot off shops are half a## so I just want make sure 800.00 is 800.00. I've worked on alot of cars in garages most of my life but never ran into this problem so trying to make sure it was properly diagnose. Like I said in almost 20yrs in the field this would be the first I have ran into this problem. So the more I watch the more curious I get. Thanks for the info

[@SangheiliSpecOp]

Thank you so much for taking your time to make these videos for us :) we all appreciate it!

[@keithrodgers4358]

Best repair videos on the net. Followed your videos and completed the job on 5.4 3 value timing chain Replacement. on my sons 06 expedition. ( 1st car) Could not have done it without you. Thank you ! My son thanks you also...

[@WattLights2009]

2005 F150 5.4 When we unplug the VCT Solenoids, the bogging down does not stop, only random misfire code with the Pro Torque App. Had to shock it to get it running to see if bogging would stop. This means that solenoids are bad? Have cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor, replaced the thing under the spare tire, changed the oil and fuel filter, put new foam around the air filter. Runs smooth and does not sound like a diesel, unless you push it to move faster then it bogs down. Do not know history on the vehicle, just bought it.

[@patw52pb1]

Brian, thank you and all those involved in the efforts and production of this channel. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all. May the new year bring you, your families and friends much health, wealth, happiness and peace.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+patw52pb1 It's just me unfortunately lol but thanks!

[@derekortiz3663]

Hey hey, start a patreon. You deserve compensation for all your trade secrets and vid making time. Time is money.

[@embed1344]

you do a great job solo...you should see me try to do a video working on my car...you'd laugh! 0r groan ...

[@GustavoGonzalez-tq7tc]

@@FordTechMakulocou

[@tonymctony4551]

My 2003 has 80,000 miles and ever since I bought it used in 2010 it does this revving up and down at the light and stutters if you want to accelerate. I have to slowly ease into speed and once its at speed it mostly runs smooth till i have to deaccelerate and or get to red light again.

[@grandizer4531]

Omg I had this issue and no one could figure it out. Had to get rid of the truck. Damn you Ford!!

[@brakedd]

Great video, thanks. Many problems with the DBW throttle bodies on the 2v 4.6? 08 Marquis dies when you put it in gear after it's been sitting very very rarely. Reason I suspect the TB is it doesn't seem to respond to throttle input at all when this happens. Restart it and it's fine. One of the times it was very hard to restart, long crank time and would die when put in gear repeatedly. Seems like as soon as the load is put on the engine from the converter, it goes flat.

[@garrettstevensen2467]

Wow. You do know your stuff FordTechMakuloco! :)

[@RickyPisano]

My 2005 Ford Limited shakes a bit at a stop in drive but stops when I put it in neutral. Not shaking bad but enough to notice. Maybe mine is starting show these effects. My engine light came on awhile back and I saw your video on the wiring harness resting on the low pressure A.C line and over time wearing through. . Sure enough that was the culprit. I fixed that and the engine light is good to go now.

[@alrui]

Hi Brian - Thank for another GREATLY informative video! I had read info. on the oil gauges in the Fords being "bogus" and now Im convinced a true mechanical gauge is the way to go. Thanks!

[@keithkennedy4859]

good video brian..cant stress oil changes enough in these motors..ive got an 08 with 123k and never had an issue. use the correct weight and you shouldn't have an issue.

[@Skauber]

I really hate Ford's dummy oil pressure gauge. Why bother putting a gauge there then just connecting it to a standard switch? I don't see the logic behind them not putting an actual pressure transmitter there, they might as well just stick with a standard oil lamp....

[@ScottyT418]

+Skauber It was to stop low oil pressure complaints

[@XXMETAL4LIF3XX]

+Skauber i always wondered about this as well. my 2000 mustang gt has no functioning oil gauge?

[@Skauber]

Unless the Mustang has a different setup, yeah it's not a gauge, basically it's an oil lamp in the shape of a gauge... :p

[@WizzRacing]

+Scott Trimble You're right. As the old 40-60 psi oil pressure requirements is gone. The new oils only need 15 or so psi to do there job. The lower oil pressure also reduces the chances of blowing gaskets and seals.

[@d.e.b.b5788]

+Claude Rains That is correct. When I started using Mobil 1 5w20 weight oil in my 1966 mustang 289 V8, it scared the crap out of me because the oil pressure gauge would drop to almost nothing when idling. I asked my mechanic and he said the same thing; as long as the lifters are getting oil and are not ticking loudly (they would sometimes tic a little at idle, but that went away with revs), the engine will be fine. He was right, I drove it another 100,000 miles on that 5w20 oil, using 10,000 miles as the duration for oil changes. This we started back in the 1970's. It never burned oil; it DID leak it, though. When we pulled that engine apart to rebuild it, it was clean as a whistle. I've used Mobil 1 ever since, on every vehicle I've owned. Can't argue with success.

[@bkranz-1283]

I have a 5.4 3v that was sometimes idling rough and shook the whole truck. Would only happen when I had the truck at full operating temp and tapped the gas just right and braked right away. Had 5w-20 oil in the thing for the whole 199,000 miles before it started doing this. Just changed over to 5w-30 today and after a good hour long cruise I tried everything I could to make it act up. Never flinched. Runs good and smooth and I don't have to pull my dang valve covers now. Yipeee. I was hesitant to go to 5w-30 since my truck was doing good still with 198,000 miles and I read online how it supposedly hurt gas mileage and made the engine feel sluggish to use the 5w-30. What a load of crap. I swear my engine just feels smoother now as a whole. No BS'ing here folks. 5w-30 is what this motor craves

[@bkranz-1283]

Now with a little luck, I want to take the truck to at least 250,000 miles before I upgrade. I want to only spend on the maintinence basics. No transmission shops or timing sets. I'm already at 200,000 miles on original everything besides spark plugs (mines a 2010 so they were easy to change). Not a bad truck if I say so myself.

[@290wayne]

I have a 2005 F 150 5.4 and a 2007 Explorer 4.6 .... Both with about 100,000 miles.... At 40 mph they BOTH have a engine vibration... give it gas it goes away.... or let off the gas it goes away...

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Have it checked with the Ford IDS power balance tool this is a common speed to have misfires that feel like a vibration.

[@290wayne]

FordTechMakuloco Thanks

[@posenauto]

I have had a couple of these with this problem. Both were low oil pressure. What I found is the thrust bearing was worn out or oil starved. If you have this problem and see the rear main seal leaking (a telltale) check crankshaft end play. If you can see the endplay STOP (if you can see it it is too much). Don't waste your money following the ford diagnostic chart by replacing recommended parts. Personally I have seen these systems fail with anything less than 26 psi oil pressure hot in drive with your foot on the brake. Any less oil pressure than that your engine is on its way out.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah the 2006-2008 model years were bad for having thrust walker issue causing walking of the crankshaft.

[@rogergomez850]

@@FordTechMakuloco please can you explainme more about that ?

[@grumpyoldfart7302]

Sounds like more piss poor design on these newer cars.

[@gizmothewytchdoktor1049]

planned obsolescence. vehicles are no longer expected to last past the latest batch of regulations which change drastically on average around every 5 years. keeps them in business and you in debt. i stick with pre 1995 cars as there's nothing that the average owner/tech cannot deal with for a reasonable cost or amount of effort. less tech=better reliability if properly maintained.

[@d.e.b.b5788]

Just 'growing pains'. Every design has to go through this, to find out what happens to the engine over longer use intervals. We just got so spoiled because the Ford small and big blocks (and old GM and other great engines too from other manufacturers) that started their life in the 50's and 60's had been so rid of any bugs, that they were almost indestructible. As time goes on, the Ford Modular engine will gradually 'mature' and the bugs will be worked out as well. But with bugs sometimes it takes a long time just for those bugs to show up. They come up with a solution, but again, it takes many years to see if that solution works over the long intervals.

[@gizmothewytchdoktor1049]

thing is...simplicity made the older engines bulletproof. the newer designs cannot hope to be as reliable over the long run due to materials that won't last....complicated electronics(a whole post could take that one up)and emissions control/fuel injection problems and worst of all for these aluminum engines...heat soak cycles over time. a sad commentary to be sure.

[@grumpyoldfart7302]

Gizmo AMEN.

[@9HighFlyer9]

You know what get over it. If older cars were better they'd still be building them. The average life of cars has doubled since the 1960's. Add to that they get far better mileage, tons of horsepower without tetraethyl lead, numerous safety and entertainment features that were hardly imaginable then. When you go on a plane trip do you say "man they just don't build em like the DC-3 anymore. That thing was solid."?

[@tyroneharris1434]

Ran into that problem on a 2002 Trailblazer couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Took solenoid out got a can of brake cleaner cleaned it thoroughly let it dry reinstalled it. Runs great to this day.

[@gotjuice1883]

Interestingly, l did this diagnosis and fix last week. Another shop replaced b1 cam sensor, week later ran rough, diesel sounding. Brought into my shop, found this video and showed the lady this video and fix. I duplicated the problem, disconnected, drove for an hour, zero issues! Replaced the vct sensors and yes the screens were cracked and filled with sludge. 24hrs later with zero issues, customer got the car back and the same diesel sounds. Customer is pissed and brought car to ford dealer. They are telling her she might need an engine as the vct solenoids did not resolve THE matter. SHE, did in fact have low oil level, uses crap dyno oil amd refused the penzoil synthetic thay you rec. Might just be a oil psi issue, due to crap oil and 110k miles. WE MAY never know what the outcome is though!

[@PaulBond-g6s]

2013 Expedition- jumped solenoid with 12 volts. Confirmed fix. This was on a "new" vvt solenoid on a reman engine. Had p0015 and p0017.

[@joshgraves6630]

I just got done doing the timing set on a 07. It would make the tapping sound just above idle about 850 rpm but went away at 950 to 1000 rpm. I found broken guides and loose chains inside so I figured the noise was that. The owner turned down phasers btw. The noise is still happening along with a slight stumble if holding the rpm at 850 but with the vct's unhooked it makes no noise at any engine speed. I'm guessing the solenoids are to blame but unsure.

[@donniegodbey8593]

I would like to thank you for all the highly informative information. I'm a do it "yourselfer" and by know means a mechanic, however you have got me through a number of jobs . With that said I'm at a loss, I recently bought a 2010 F-150 4.6 3v after having it 3 days I was backing into a parking spot and the truck start sputtering and jumping as soon as I put it into park it quit. Having owned a number of Ford trucks I went through the checklist. After driving it back to my house I was pulling it into the garage it did it again. So I played around, watched a number of your videos. It sounded like it could be the VCT solenoids (or worse). I disconnected the VCT solenoids and of course it drives fine. I replaced both VCT solenoids and while they are plugged in still sputters and dies some times at low RPMs especially when parking. At the moment outside of replacing the VCT solenoids I have changed oil, and ran seafoam through the system. Any advise or info would be greatly appreciated.

[@jaredadams5194]

My 03 Lariat is doing the rough idle, otherwise it drives just fine. I have checked vacuum, changed PCV valve, IAC valve, plugs, coils, upstream o2 sensors, and a couple other things.

[@Mik9mik]

Had the po010 code, checked #47 fuse and fixed it after researching for days. All over a 15 amp fuse!

[@ChiefMugambu]

Thanks for the video. I took my truck in to the dealer, and they had it for 6 days. Diagnosed absolutely nothing. Recommended that I change the spark plugs, even though it had 82K. Wanted $695 to do it. On a 2010?? No thanks. Replaced the plugs and coils myself. Fixed nothing. Watched a few of your videos, specifically the one that show the laptop mapping the advance curves with the VCT solenoids plugged in vs. unplugged. That's my problem! The truck runs poor and borderline dangerous with the VCT's plugged in. Unplug them, and although it still runs a bit off, it runs much better, and doesn't make me feel unsafe driving it. I have opened a case with Ford Customer Relations requesting that they refund my diagnostic fee ($125) since they diagnosed nothing, and the spark plug guess was wrong.

[@ChiefMugambu]

Update: Replaced the VCT solenoids and it ran better, but still not 100%' and only for ONE day. The next day (today) it starting acting up again, same as before, but today at a stoplight the "Wrench" light turned on. The truck started idling very poorly, and the engine stopped responding to pedal input. I had to idle it into the parking lot. Checked the codes with a scanner and it threw 3 codes: P0122 TPS/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input, P2111 TAC System Stuck open, P2135 TPS/ Pedal Position Sensor /Switch A/B Voltage Correlation. Engine didn't shut off, so I doubt the throttle was wide open. This sucks! Could be wiring, could be part of the pedal assembly , could be PCM problems.

[@howardfitzner7789]

Thanks!

[@mattwagner7489]

You recommended cleaning the varnish off with something like BG. What about running some Seafoam right before an oil change?

[@Dominater000]

Dang I have done all kinds of stuff trying to get this figured out and am halfway through taking my valve covers off to look at my camshafts lol. Might as well keep going but at this pt, but I feel like this is my problem. Hoping its not my phasers tbh as I do have a p0345 code and check engine light

[@biggboy3159]

thanks man great video. mine just started running rough as soon as I put gas in it. like it's not running on all cylinders but no codes popped up. I'm gona try changing the fuel filter and if that doesn't work I'm gona try that valve test

[@ralphvilla5130]

Thanks for the input. I have that problem you spoke about, I changed the valve on bank 1 without removing the valve cover, bank 2, I couldn't remove the valve or the valve cover. Is safe in driving without having them connected.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yes

[@anthonylacy4466]

Man I need you out in denver colorado to scope out my van. The upper heater hose blew(broke at the nipple) off and soaked the engine bay with coolant and since then my engine light has come on & stayed on, then it will flash and then chug for power but only happens when steady throttle (no and then) and also up a mellow incline(van looking for power)... Weird. Just did a minor tune up a few months back(splugs & wires). No problems with my van untilnthat radiator issue happened. 1997 Ford E-150 conversion van 4.6L triton V8.

[@anthonylacy4466]

Found out a spark plug was loose and literally just now blew out of the head. Thought my engine was blown then I pulled it all apart in the patking lot and seen what happened so I put the plug in nice and tight. No engine light now and runs smooth again. Thanks god for that. Woo

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

I'm glad I stop by your channel every once in a while. I wish I saw more Fords at my shop...but those are the vehicles that generally just need maintenance. I feel like they're better vehicles that need less shop time. The usual Ford exceptions are cars that are obviously not cared for.

[@Toolaholic7]

Oil pump issues also.Jasper Engines and Transmissions has a youtube video showing the factory oil pump and the upgraded oil pump.The factory oil pump has an aluminum backing plate that flexes and the oil gets dumped back into the oil pan.The upgraded Melling M360 oil pump fixes this.The 3 valve 5.4s,5w20 synthetic oil has to be used.The lifters will rattle if synthetic is not used

[@kencrane6420]

Thank you! I tried disconnecting them and driving and no change. Shocked them with 12VDC a few times and its idling great. Interestingly I replaced them about 2.5 years ago and with only 10K miles on them (I know I don't drive the F150 much) they are starting to act up. My oil has been changed 3x in the past 10k miles and almost looks new out of the bottle.

[@andysej879]

When you shock your VVT on there was your truck running

[@kencrane6420]

@@andysej879 No, the truck was off I shocked them in both directions by reversing the polarity on the 12VDC I was giving them off a 12V battery (you can use electric meter leads and the truck battery for this).

[@frankthetank8947]

Can you remove the solenoid without removing the valve cover on a 2010 f150 5.4??

[@andrescenteno3254]

Great advice thank you but do you think that using a thicker oil May calls this problem I was told by my local auto parts store clerk since I was passed 120000 miles that I should move up 2 10 w 30 instead of the 5 W 30 so I did a few days later this problem occurred check engine light came on and VCT code came out

[@camsprocket]

Ok so I flushed the engine and followed the instruction. Then put new motorcraft blend 5-20... cleared the codes.... I've been driving the car for two days and not one issue.... so I'm wondering if I should wait to do the VCT selenoid now.... I have all the parts, but if the car continues to drive well, I'll just wait until it acts up, then install the new VCT selenoids.... thanks for the suggestion on the BT kit... so far it seems to be doing its job

[@lostinmyspace4910]

Per this video, I replaced my VCT solenoids a year ago. It's such an easy repair for such an important part of resolving the truck issues. Don't be afraid to tackle this job...it's easy, and so worth it. My truck runs like new with 354,000 miles on the 2005 F150 5.4 engine as of June 15, 2023. Good luck!

[@zackgr0gan]

hey so I was on forscan and was watching the vct system and it would never open even when i was driving and had the pedal to the floor until i reached 100mph engine had been drove around all day truck was completely warm and the vct system remained closed no matter what i did. the engine runs fine I just replace vct solenoid because I had the same problem in the video. after that every thing was good I was just checking it and noticed that the system just stayed closed and never in the open position.

[@kenycharles8600]

A dirty mass air flow sensor causes a rough idle too. A free diagnosis from O'Reilly auto parts and a spray can of mass air flow sensor cleaner that cost a few bucks fixed it on my 2008 F150.

[@littleredtractor1126]

Is there a way that one can easily diagnose the difference between if it is VCT solenoids or the cam phasers? (5.4 Triton, 2007, Expedition)

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes disconnect the solenoid connector and go for a drive.

[@QBama100]

@@FordTechMakuloco Hi THANKS FOR ALL YOUR VIDOES.. I got 07 Expedition 200456 miles Should I switch to 5w30 oil if so a certin brand? If the VCT goes bad is a special tool needed to get it out?

[@youngwolf20]

Thank you. I just got a 07 Ford Expedition 5.4L on 3 days ago and it started doing that today. Thankfuly it is still under the warranty. I mean I am a mechanic for GM (job security seeing as how they're always breaking down). But if I dont have to work on it then I say let the warranty handle it haha. But it is still good to know what your dealing with.

[@jayschmidt6070]

Quick question if you notice this start to happen can you do a flush or cleaning on your oil system to help that to eliminate it

[@andrewsargent2102]

Man buddy you are a lifesaver you help me out so much I put new phasers in it I replace the VCT solenoids and I still couldn't figure it out but I bought the AutoZone solenoids and therefore it got dumbed up again it plugged up I'd had no idea the vehicle would run without that unplugged so it looks like I'm tearing back into the top of this valve cover again thank you

[@Kevinb1821]

I have a fault code for cam position sensor on an 05 mustang gt 3v. The car seems to run fine but I hear a slight whining noise too. I'm getting a p0340 and p0344 codes.

[@anadavidf6163]

I have a 2007 late year model that sometimes idols rough and knocks loud after engine gets hot. I got code read and it is misfiring. The vvt solenoid was the recommendation. I'm worried that it is more. And right now I don't have additional $$ to have someone lie to me.

[@zacharymundell8508]

When shocking it with the 12 volts, how do you connect the voltage meter to it? Also it’s later and I just went around the neighborhood. I unplugged both vct solenoids and drove around the block, and the results remained the same. Do I need to get it to a higher rpm to be able to tell?

[@williamvangorden44]

Ok I have 07 . Now I just got this truck and did have an oil change it was conventional oil and to 2 days later I started to get these symptoms started to occur , I don't know what oil whent in it to begin with. No sign of saying syn anywhere could this that I had an oil change done with conventional oil, could that be the reason.but before no problem .and sould I change it out immediately? O try the disconnecting the VCT no problems after that Nifty little trick worked. Oh my god did it feel like the front end of that motor wanted to blow off the block some scary stuff there.

[@kevina4674]

What about the ones that are under the valve cover? I have to do this by taking it all apart unplug back together and drive? Seems like it would be a pain in the ass... my 2003 5.4 f250 has 140k and has a rough idle only with no codes. You can’t hear it but can feel it in the seat when sitting at a light. Plugs and coils are fairly new within the last year.

[@cdubs1723]

I have this ticking noise that I've been told numerous things it could be. This noise doesn't happen when in park, only when in drive and between 800-1300 rpms. I have had a violent engine once when parked on a steep incline but when I increased rpms to 1500+ it calmed down and leveled off at 750 rpms. Any help is appreciated!!! Love your videos. Keep it up!!

[@vanlouvier1209]

I have a 2000 Windstar 3.8 and was pulling up the garage ramp and a loud pop noise took place. Now it doesn't want to go forward but will back up.

[@bloodhellsing25]

What about having a puffing sound coming from the passenger side does not go away with it at temp or cold start stays with acceleration

[@adanvjr]

Hi, I have 4 codes on my F150 (5.4L 3V Engine): P345 P349 P345 - Pending P349 - Pending I'm at a loss. I took it to a mechanic and they told me it's an electronic problem and the entire PCM needs to be replaced. $800 later, I still get the same problem. Not happy with that bad diagnostic they done. I do get some light intermittent shudders when I'm at a stop light. I have not seen any other symptoms.

[@michaelburtin3457]

Great video do I unhook both or just bank 1

[@JiuJitsuHouse]

First off thank you for all the vids. They've helped alllot. Second, I changed both cam sensors and both vct solenoids. The truck no longer dies out or shakes violently buuuutttt, if I'm at stop and go traffic, with light taps to the gas pedal it rattles like a can of spray paint type noise. If I unplug the vct solenoid (new) on bank 1, the noise goes away. I do not have check engine lights. Truck is a 05 5.4 4x4. What if I just leave it unplugged. It is driving me nutttts.

[@dontedq]

We unplugged our vct sensor and no change still was running rough and knocking noise but I'm starting to think it was that aftermarket solenoid from O'Reilly causes the issues

[@turboroush]

In order to do the test you mention disconnecting the VCT and taking a drive do you have to disconnect both at the same time or can you do one at a time

[@ethanvillarreal5766]

Wow this video actually helped a lot, now I know what my issues are, now I got to fix them. Bought 2010 xlt 4.6 3v, and the sensor was unplugged, I plugged it back in and my truck was just running nasty. I unplugged it and been driving it fine for about 1000 miles, but now my oil pressure light comes on. Already bought a new switch so I’m hoping thats all i need.

[@daniellissy5788]

Was that the issue? I got the same problem with my truck and I got no idea what it is

[@dansanta458]

When you're shocked in the VCT with 12 volts do you put Power to one of them and run a negative to the other or what is your method

[@zackzab6712]

@FordTechMakuloco i finally order a VCT from your link, installed it on bank 2 today, truck idle so damn smooth and was quiet, i was shocked, drove it a bit but when i got home it started to shake and ratlle bad again, disconnected the bank 1 side VCT and reved the enigne and the rattling went away so im going to go ahead and swap out the bank 1 VCT, codes popped up as well, said bank 1 is over retarted but i feel like its not the phaser or anything or i at least hope not,either way thanks for all the info, youve helped me alot with my 5.4

[@RonnieYoung-zx8wu]

I have a 3.5 EcoBoost it stalls at a traffic light it runs fine going down the road you can stop at a light and shuts off appreciate everything can you give me some advice check the perch valve I checked the canister valve I'm going nuts