Quincy 325 compressor repair

[@rotarycomptech]

THE COMPRESSOR GURU IS A BIG FAT DUMB FAT GOOF!!!!!

[@davids1681]

These look similar or identical to the valves in my 340 - true? With that in mind... - the 'kick-off' pins are only associated with an unloader-equipped model, I'm guessing? - which valve components are/aren't interchangeable (do I have to keep them sorted while bead-blasting or doing other cleanup?) - does standard rebuild kit include replacement clock-springs and 'sealing washers' (bronze/brass-looking items)? - anything in these NOT OK to bead-blast to clean up? - at least a couple of mine have some chunks missing from the end of a tubular part that points down, just above the discs and springs, but it doesn't seem like this should affect anything to me. If you can tell what I mean - is this a concern?

[@rotarycomptech]

You must have the old style 340 compressor if the valves are the same. The newer style 340 compressor uses the same valves as a model above it the 350. Nevertheless the valves are Interchangeable. I always like to use the discharge valve that's in the best condition for the high pressure discharge valve position, As Quincy is one of the only compressors on the market that does not require a inline check valve in the discharge line, The high pressure discharge valve acts as a inline check valve so it's important to use the best valve you have for this position or arrangement, You can glass bead all of the valve components, I'm not so sure what is included in the rebuild kit or how many different levels of rebuild kits are available at this point, Atlas copco purchased Quincy compressors couple a years ago and I have gotten out of the business so I'm not too up-to-date, Hope this helps Good luck!

[@davids1681]

@@rotarycomptech Thanks, yes, very helpful...out of the business or otherwise, that's useful info. And the videos live on... Also very interesting, that bit about the external check-valve not being required. If I'd known, I might not have bought one when I was putting together Crankenstein (a Fed. surplus model 340 pump, a lay-around 10HP motor driven by a new Chinese VFD, and a reclaimed 80-gallon vertical tank.) I desperately need a belt-and-suspenders method to keep water out of my crankcase. SO far I think that's gonna be a heater, plus some replumbing to create a low-point immediately after the discharge fitting, I think - but LMK if you're aware of a best method to handle that, especially a DIY sump heater. Nearly killed my pump, not knowing that huge amounts of condensation were accumulating during my sporadic use. Water was ponded in the discharge area of the head, and hindsight tells me it was a bad idea to immediately route the discharge pipe UP to get to the nearest tank port - because now I see that much of the condensate never made it into the tank that way. Dipstick doesn't tell me anything until it's too late, unless I notice the level is rising...very slowly... I'm even thinking I might drill and tap the bottom of the crankcase to allow the nastiest of the stuff to be drawn out on occasion, and/or seen via sight-glass. LMK how crazy that sounds. I'll keep prying info out of the Quincy- Houston tech people; I suspect I will be spending a lot with them for rebuild hardware.

[@rotarycomptech]

@@davids1681 Yeah you have to be careful no matter what type of compressor it is not Running it long enough or a very short duty cycle in a humid climate almost always leads to condensate in the crankcase or if it's a rotary screw compressor condensate in the sump tank, I've seen many air compressors destroyed due to the situation an oversized air compressor for the application, Back in the day when I used to work on these units we used to install a electronic timer drain solenoid valve and set it to go off quite often more than you'd ever need it too just to keep the compressor running longer and the condensate out of the crank case. The plumbing arrangement your talking about has probably very little to nothing to do with the condensate building up in the crankcase, Also another back in the day story a company that I used to work for that was Quincy distributor, We used to build a cold weather package for the QR25 series which entailed a crankcase heater That screwed into the oil drain 1/2" NPT and was about 8" to a foot long I don't recall the voltages you might want try one of them , every time I run my compressor I always make sure it gets up to temperature before you shut it off even if requires venting some air

[@davids1681]

@@rotarycomptech About that water-in-oil, here's the thing: I *do* have an automatic drain-valve on a timer, plumbed into the bottom of the 80-gallon receiver...but I get almost nothing out of it. It's been there since I started it up. It has long been set to blow about every hour for around five seconds, but like I say...almost nothing comes out. Three years ago, I went through a preview of what is now happening, with a LOT of oil in the water (but not as much as this time). Apparently that time, there was enough that it emulsified in the oil, making it look green for some reason, and I saw it on the dipstick. I had to clean out the sump then, which was memorable, but I didn't fully realize it could happen again - I'd told myself that somehow it must have leaked in while the pump was stashed outdoors before I'd adapted it to its new life. Now I don't think so! It didn't occur to me then that by running the discharge up, especially through a relatively large pipe, there wouldn't be the air-velocity in it to blow accumulated condensate up and over, into the tank. So every time it cycled, hot/wet air that was trapped in that vertical leg - which was also then vented by the electric unloader valve - would have cooled off and condensed, running down into the discharge port. Or at least, all of that's my best working theory right now. About those sump-heaters: I think I stumped the Quincy tech when I asked him where the 'baked-out' condensation from the heating they provide would GO. There's no crankcase vent, right? No place for it to exhaust? If so, it almost seems like it might be worse than hoping it would stay emulsified in the oil, because if it's kept hot and 'boils' out of the oil, thus filling the air-spaces in the pump galleries, I can only imagine the additional rust I'd see next time. I need to come up with a simple means to expose the crank oil to air outside and 'burn off' any accumulated water; maybe some kind of an active breather retrofit...? Speaking of which: there's something like a miniature ping-pong ball that gravity keeps seated, in a little well on the top edge of the sump, between the cyl and sump gasket. The upper side of that gallery is plumbed by external copper tube to the intake-gallery in the head. I can't quite figure this out. It seems like this might tend to draw a small negative pressure in the sump. Is that the case? Why? If you don't want to keep fielding my questions, no worries - I'll take it up with Quincy when they're open after the weekend. Thanks for the help so far.

[@jaredbrady27]

David S. - did you ever come up with a solution for the water in the oil issue. I’m experiencing the same issue. Thank you ROTARYCOMPTECH for the excellent videos.

[@pltmann]

Dave , I posted up a new video . I replaced one discharge valve . The bumper was all dished out and the seat not to good either. Refinished the other valves and put it back together. Runs really good . Thank you for all the great information .

[@pltmann]

Dave , I had some a slight air leak back through the intake , so I decided to take it apart . The low side discharge bumper was crater city and the spring came out flat .The highside bumper looks good . The intake bumpers have a slight groove , but I think tlhey will be fine . I ordered a valve kit and new bumper. I will let you know how it runs when I put it back together . Your videos are helping me a lot . Thank you . Dave

[@rabbibacongrease88]

What size socket do I need to remove the unloader tower? It looks around 3 inches or so

[@rotarycomptech]

I'm not sure what size it is I've always used the Quincy tool or you could use a pipe wrench

[@pvcarmon1]

Are the 1/8" threated holes on the unloader towers suppose to be plumber into the 1/4" pluged hole on the head between the intake valve plates? My pump has two unloaders, is there an advantage to two v/s one? Awsome video thanks......

[@rotarycomptech]

Hey Paul I know what you meantThe unloader tower with the 18 inch pipe connection is only used on the high pressure side and is typically plumbed into the head like you mentioned if used on the low pressure side it needs to be plugged although they could be left to vent to atmosphere they are plugged and plumbed to keep the machine quiet upon shut down and running continuously. The two unloader towers are used for continuous run operation

[@jif988]

Hi Dave, thanks again for the great videos. My 325 works great thanks to your guidance, but now after using it a couple years it is leaking some air, I think out of the HP discharge valve. So I replaced the disc, copper gasket, lapped the valve seats but it still leaks....do these discharge valves eventually wear out, or is there some other way to repair the one I have? thanks...JF

[@rotarycomptech]

Joel Fisher as long as the seat on the valve itself isn't missing pieces you should be able to reuse it, sometimes if there is rust issues in the copper gasket sealing area they have a tendency to leak there, you may try wrapping the copper gasket with Teflon tape. worst case scenario if you can't figure it out you can always put a check valve in the discharge line

[@patvargo9513]

I have a Quincy 214 I can't find a video on rebuilding the head.

[@rotarycomptech]

There may not be one

[@jameswillard2772]

I am looking at buying a 325 pump is there a roc you would stay away from btw great job only thing I wish is you would get a wooden mallet or something lol

[@pltmann]

Dave , I posted up a short video of a discharge valve seat. Let me know if I should replace it ? Dave

[@chrishood3166]

I need a rebuild kit for a Quincy Model A-4 13549385 size 2 1/2 X 2 1/2. Can anyone help!!

[@pvcarmon1]

Sorry I ment plumbed with copper tubing. I hate touch screen phones and spell checkers lol Thx........

[@leontierralta]

pobre sigueñal quedo muy maltratado en estados unidos no hay estratores de rodillos?????????????????

[@pipe2113]

ahahahahaha audio