QX80 No Crank No start SOLVED! How to test if your IPDM or starter is bad.

[@MikeJones-yz6kd]

Thank you for posting this video very good information it did work for me

[@cshines2]

Mine cranks but doesn't start, sometimes if I push it forward it will crank and start

[@05milmachine90]

Juat had this on our 2016. It has done 170K miles so its ok if it needs a starter. I cut the vvcm wire a year ago to eliminate that and now i The starter is intermittent. I caught the problem with a test light just like this video and am ordering a starter. Thanks!

[@t.j.brewster6465]

Just came across your video and I think I may have a similar problem with my 2015 QX80. Can you confirm if my description matches what you were experiencing? 90+% of the time the car starts with no issues. However occasionally you will depress the brake and hit the start button; all of the lights in the car come on as normal, but the car does not crank. To be clear it's not that it struggles to crank, it does not even try to crank. Then if you patiently try enough times (never taken more than 3 or so minutes) the car will finally start. I have put a volt meter on the battery at rest and after starting and it appears that the battery and alternator are both good. Does this mesh with what you and your wife were experiencing? Assuming so what all did you investigate prior to getting to the IPDM vs Starter test you put in the video. I really like the QX80, but if we can't figure this out we are going to have to get rid of it. Thanks for any further learnings you can share.

[@jackharding98]

Your description is exactly what we experienced with our Qx80. Initially I thought I might have had an ignition relay problem, but deep study and troubleshooting on that proved ignition wasn't my problem. Check my channel in the QX80 Playlist if you want to see a video on that. This video on the starter is your best bet, your issue will be that you need to test when the car isn't starting. Which isn't very often ( same with me). I set everything up early one morning and after a few good starts, it finally gave me a no start and I was able to confirm my situation. Good luck. BTW- I replaced my starter and have been 100% reliable since. My wife is back to loving her luxury SUV.

[@SpicyRok7482]

It almost CERTAINLY the STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID. PERIOD. My '14 did the same thing in May, when my wife was 6hrs. away ( on a 1,500mi. trip ). They jumped it and jumped it w/o success. Ran the battery down ( so they said ). Repl'd the "bad" battery ( so Auto Zone said ). Eventually...,...,...it started. So she went on with her trip. Come September...same thing..."clunk" sound when attempting to start...no crank.."good" batt. ( THIS time it was at home base. I was checking it before she left on a 2,500mi. trip. ) So I checked the solenoid trigger signal wire ( term #50 )...the small gray wire conn. on the rear right bracket at rear of intake manifold. GOOD SIGNAL. in short repl'd starter ass'y w/$120 AMAZON part ( bought 3yr. ins. policy on starter $20 ). She drove to WDW & back...2,500mi. NO MO' PROBLEMO!

[@t.j.brewster6465]

@@jackharding98 Thanks. It has not happened again when I have been at home to test it, so I have not been able to put your information to use yet.

[@hwyking]

My 2014 does this too once in a great while. I have a Platinum Warranty good to 120k miles I believe so I've been wanting to take it in but what if they can't reproduce the issue? I read somewhere that the SUV sometimes doesn't know if it's in neutral or park so when this happens I put it in neutral and it starts.

[@jackharding98]

@hwyking You are correct in your hesitation to take it in. If the issue doesn't occur while they have it, then they can't diagnose. Unless the vehicle has left a module code in the system that they could see but wouldn't be displayed via your check engine light. In my case, I set up my diagnostic tools and kept starting and shutting off until I got a random no start. At that point I was able to verify the situation.

[@Lewmayne609]

Great info thank you!

[@jermainejohnson156]

Is anyone getting engine light with code P0087? My Qx80 is getting the same but with the code.

[@jackharding98]

I did not get that code. P0087 is Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low”

[@mikekrieg3191]

So if light goes off and doest start its the IPDM? Appreciate the help

[@jackharding98]

Well, I'll be really specific here because I think it will help you. If the test light turns on when you are trying to start the engine, that means your starter solenoid power is good. When that starter solenoid power is good, your starter motor should be turning your engine over (cranking). If the engine isn't cranking (but the test light is on), then either your starter motor/solenoid is bad or there is another electrical problem in the start solenoid circuit. If the test light doesn't turn on while trying to start the engine (and your test light is hooked up correctly) then the IPDM isn't providing power to the starter solenoid and you need to troubleshoot why the IPDM isn't working. IPDM's cost over $2000, so hopefully, that's not your problem. Generally, the 2014 and newer IPDM are reliable from what I hear.

[@cfer1440]

I have the exact same intermittent issue on my wife’s 2012. If I do this and my test light doesn’t come on, do I have to replace the entire IPDM or is there a cheaper way by changing one of the relays or something else? Great video btw and thank you.

[@jackharding98]

Check out my channel for the QX80 Ignition, relays and IPDM. There are relays that could be the culprit. My experience in digging into the diagrams and my 2016 QX80 is that the IPDM is less likely the problem. In my case, I tested the IPDM and all relays and it turned out to be my starter motor.

[@forty_onkick]

if the test light doesn't come on, the ipdm is 'bad' - it isn't sending power to the starter solenoid to start cranking the flywheel

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

That still doesn't point to the problem. Because if it's an intermittent problem, just because you hold on that button and the light comes on seems like a result of what happens when the ipdm has enough time to cool down and kind of reset itself. So basically the best time to be testing this would be after the car has been running for a while. Because of its happening intermittently, that's because the ipdm has heated up so much that it is essentially having a heat stroke. Still doesn't mean that the ipdm is not bad. It could just mean it has had enough time to cool down. So you can essentially replace the starter and the ipdm could still be bad. I ran into a problem with an ipdm overheating in a 2008 Infiniti qx56. But the problems went way past it just needing a starter. Nothing in the truck would work. I had no dash lights but the truck was still able to drive in essentially a limp mode. It would not shift into overdrive. So I had to baby it back home 200 miles from Chicago. But once I got home, it had enough time to cool down and it started ran and drove just fine. Now to be fair, it was about 90° during that trip to chicago. But the pavement temperature was well into the mid 120°s. So if it's a simple no crank no start, I wouldn't bother checking the ipdm. Unless there are other symptoms such as non shifting or lack of gauge cluster. But that's just my opinion. You can do what you want. But I would say you are wasting your time messing with the ipdm. And possibly spending a couple thousand dollars on a whim.

[@jackharding98]

Great input. The point of the video is to test if the starter signal is even getting to the starter. If the IPDM is outputting a signal to the starter solenoid, then the problem isn't the IPDM if the starter isn't cranking.

[@mtb4l673]

Does the IPDM module trigger the Security light indicator in the dash? My wife has a 2014 QX80 that has intermittent start and flashes in Red the security indicator light, which locks the ignition switch. Thank you

[@jackharding98]

The Body Control Module (BCM) controls most all functions of the security system. The only thing the IPDM does regarding the security system is honk the horn. All other aspects are controlled by the BCM.

[@laytonwhip]

Well heck!! Now im not sure the VVCS was my QX80's starting problem!! I snipped that wire so i guess time will tell if that fixed the issue or if i need to try and get it to no start while i have a test light hooked up. This car..... 🤦

[@jackharding98]

The videos you are referring to are two separate problems. The VVCS is related to the alternator charging the battery. This No crank video is regarding the starter motor. If you're not sure if your QX80 isn't starting because of a dead battery, just measure the battery voltage. You should have about 12.6 with the car off. If you have 12.0V you have a dead battery. If your battery isn't low, then troubleshoot the starter motor if the car isn't starting.

[@joelclonch6120]

Mine acts like the battery is dead but it tests fine and alternator is good too. I can jump it off and it starts right up.

[@jackharding98]

Sounds to me like you have the popular VVCS issue. Check out my video on that.

[@siphoeunsomreth3406]

my QX80 2020, monitor no light , could you tell me about this problem

[@jackharding98]

The fastest thing for you would be to read through all the comments and this video description. If you still have a specific question, I'll be happy to answer it. The basics of this video is just that you're testing if the starter motor is getting a start signal. The IPDM rarely go bad, so double check your test results or Measure at the starter motor connector at the top back of the engine.

[@michaeldarrow6021]

The average person doesn't have access to the "starter circuit diagram".

[@jackharding98]

Chilton repair manuals with diagrams are available through many public library websites.

[@ghanaianvibes3716]

I didn’t get that problem plz what is the problem, my car doing the same thing Every time I try to start it kills the battery I charged the battery almost like 4 times, What do you think I should do , Any solution

[@jackharding98]

This video tests the IPDM start signal to the starter motor. When the test light turns on, that proves that the IPDM is working. If your battery is going dead often, I'd verify that your battery is good. Recharging a bad battery doesn't make it a good one. If your engine turns over(cranks) every time you try to start it, then this video is not what you need.

[@brendacalderon9445]

​@@jackharding98 does this control the alternator as well? I have a jx35 and my alternator I had changed last week for $800 battery and brake light still on and dealership is saying its the alternator because apparently the mobile mechanic used a brand name but not exactly OEM. And now Nissan wants $1712 to put OEM in.

[@jackharding98]

@brendacalderon9445 Sorry to hear you're having car problems. To answer your question about the IPDM working with the Alternator, yes there is a connection between the alternator regulator and the IPDM. However, I wouldn't guess the IPDM is your issue at first. I hope not, they are very expensive ($2500). If I were you, I'd go back to the mechanic who did the work and have them confirm the parts used are compatible and explain the warning lights on your car. They should be able to do a quick test to confirm the alternator is charging the battery. An auto parts store can do the test for free as well.

[@ArcheryOutdoorLife]

Hey Jack... Thanks for all your videos ive watched all of them. Curious if you have any ideas. I thought i had your same situation going on with my 2014 qx80. The only problem was the test light to the starter wont turn on no matter how many times the button was hit. So i replaced the ipdm... got the new ipdm and still no light with test to starter. I tested all other fuses and relays and all appear fine. Any ideas? Dash lights turn on but no indication to press brake to start like it normally does. Im at a complete loss.

[@jackharding98]

Bummer, sorry to hear your QX80 isn't starting. I don't know your answer off the top of my head, but I can try to help. Ok, to be sure I understand your situation, the diagram in this video, pin 3 ( red wire) of the IPDM goes to the starter solenoid, and you are not getting a signal there. So, check pin 30 of connector E13. You will want to refer to the IPDM layout diagram to find this connector. It's a Red wire with a white stripe. Bottom row second position from the end but likely the last wire in that connector. Check if you have a signal there when trying to start. That signal is coming from the Body Control Module. Without it, your IPDM won't try to start the engine.

[@ArcheryOutdoorLife]

Thank you so much for the help. I feel like ive been chasing rabbit holes with this. The pin 30 did not have power with test and not sure if relevant but it made clicking noise in ipdm when test light was pressed in. So from your point of view would this point to a bad bcm?

[@jackharding98]

@ArcheryOutdoorLife It's too early to say bad BCM, more troubleshooting is needed. The clicking noise in the IPDM would have been relays. I haven't researched the BCM previously. I'll try to look into it on Friday. Obviously, the goal is to troubleshoot the circuit that controls the start signal. The next thing to figure out is what tells the BCM to output to pin 30 at the IPDM.

[@ArcheryOutdoorLife]

@@jackharding98 Makes sense ill do my research as well. Thanks for all the help.

[@jackharding98]

@ArcheryOutdoorLife I just tested my QX80. Pin 30 has battery voltage when the Ignition is on, engine running or not. However, not enough current to light a test light very well. You'll want to use a voltage meter to measure there. The BCM has a connector M71. Pin 97 is the other end of the wire for Pin 30. You could measure with a voltmeter there also. It's the same R/W wire. Pins 97-99 of M71 are part of the Ignition system also. Pin 102 is the Neutral/park circuit, that plays a role in the start circuit also. To check P/N circuit at the IPDM measure voltage on connector E15 Pin 48. It will be a brown wire. It's the Second pin from the end but is the last wire in that row. It should have battery voltage with the key on. Good luck 👍

[@dangit4341]

Have you had the battery terminals replaced? My wife’s does the same thing. When I cleaned the terminals it started. But has done it two other times. Did you replace the starter to fix it?

[@jackharding98]

Thanks for your question, the purpose of this video is to troubleshoot if the starter is receiving the start signal to the starter solenoid. So whatever other problem might occur, like battery terminals, this video helps troubleshoot the starter solenoid signal. Yes, as mentioned in the description of this video, I did replace the starter and the vehicle has started reliability since then. Hope this video helps you find your issue. Best of luck to you.

[@dangit4341]

@@jackharding98 seeing as the terminals are clean now, I’m guessing that my problem is the starter like yours was. I was wondering about that fuseable link and all that other crap on the terminals. Probably just get a starter and be done with it.

[@jackharding98]

@Dangit I did not do anything to my battery terminals. They were in good condition. You're right that there could be other problems on your vehicle. That's the point of this video. You don't have to quess if your starter is bad. Just test it like I show. If the vehicle doesn't crank but you do have a good starter solenoid signal, then you'll know for sure that your starter is bad. If your problem is intermittent, you just have to keep trying until it fails to crank. That's what I did. The starter is under the intake manifold. It is a bit of work to replace. It likely is your problem, but I wouldn't replace it without knowing for sure.

[@dangit4341]

@@jackharding98 thanks for the info!! I’ll definitely do the test you showed.

[@dangit4341]

@@jackharding98 I did the test and it proved to be the starter like yours. So I’ll be ordering one. Thanks for the video and guidance!! Much appreciated!!

[@forty_onkick]

The OP made this a bit confusing, so to save some time from people asking the same question repeatedly... -- If the test light DOES illuminate when you press the ingition, but the car does NOT attempt to crank, the IPDM is good and the starter relay or solenoid is bad. Replace the starter (the relay and solenoid are all part of the starter as a whole). -- If the test light does NOT illuminate when you press the ignition, the IPDM is not sending power to the starter relay, thus why the starter does not / cannot engage to turn the crank. In this case, replace the IPDM and you should be all set.

[@jackharding98]

Thanks for contributing to the comments, good break down of the situation, except I wouldn't diagnose the IPDM as "bad" with a no light result. It could be another relay or wiring issue. Further troubleshooting is needed.

[@joshuajose7310]

​@@jackharding98 Thanks for posting this video, I've been having this issue for over a year now. If you dont mind could you give an update on this fix. I have a 2012 Nissan Patrol, and it seems to be a common issue for both Patrols and Qx50/80s, adding it to the title might help others find it as well

[@jackharding98]

@joshuajose7310 The starter motor/solenoid I replaced is working well. My issue remains resolved. A bad starter/solenoid is much more likely than a bad IPDM. Good luck on your troubleshooting and repair.

[@joshuajose7310]

Thanks again @@jackharding98