Rainwater Collection System Part 5: Venting

If you don't get the venting part of your rainwater collection system right you will get very little water into your totes or barrels. Here I show two methods that successfully vent the stacked totes to allow air to vent while water is either entering or leaving the system.
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[@econewpower]

Just awesome LDS prepper, you are doing a great service to everyone out there helping them prepare. I like how thorough you are in showing everyone the components you used and how you did it, I'm sure you're helping many people. I'm very glad to see your venting problem addressed in several different ways. You are doing the Lord's work by helping your brethren. Keep up the great work!

[@LDSPrepper]

The drawback with clear PVC is algae will grow in the pipe and get into your water totes. To find out how much water is in the totes I just raise the garden hose that is attached and start lowering it. When the water comes out of the hose I know that is where the water level is. It's pretty simple and extremely accurate.

[@VEightMerc124]

instead of running a vent pipe you could have use a check valve (spring-less) like a ball check valve. The valve will reamin open or slightly move as water is pushing it out. Then when the water hits the ball it spurts for a split second and seals up. Its less piping and you could conceal it under the whole setup. This ball valve thing is also use in irrigation setups on farms to vent out air pulled by the pump and in a 10in dia pipe there is a 1.5in ball valve that vents air. cool series!

[@LDSPrepper]

@ArkyPrepper That would definitely work, but not for me. Last night I got about 3,000 gallons of water from a twenty minute rain storm. Here in Houston, TX it rains hard and fast. The reason I use 2" PVC is to gather as much rain as possible as fast as possible. My concern with using 1" PVC here is the system could not handle the amount of water I need to in the time I need it to. But the total 1" PVC solution might work well else where.

[@LDSPrepper]

I put the screen on as one more item to help keep the water as clean as possible. I'm sure I don't need it but I don't have any pine needles in my water. I just clean out the screen about once a year by hand.

[@stephen.rutherford]

I wanted to say thanks for sharing these videos. I was able to put together two totes in my back yard and am waiting for a good rain to fill them up. I will use primarily yard/garden watering. Thank you again.

[@TheStavros1001]

Not a big fan of silicone, as it tends to leach nasty chemicals into the water. Hope you got aquarium grade, and that it works on your type of plastic. As to connecting stacked totes and venting, how about this idea: Put a wooden pallet between the top and bottom tote and use that space to run pvc pipe from the top tote valve to the bottom tote bung. That allows venting from the bottom, and filling at the same time.

[@LDSPrepper]

Great suggestion. You just gave me an idea that will work great on improving my venting. Thank you very much! I'll put up a video once I do it.

[@LDSPrepper]

@scarmenl I have never heard of that. Sounds cool. Thanks for sharing.

[@robinone1713]

If you have a leak and all your tubs are plumbed together, just shut the valves on the other tanks. Then you can repair the leak without loosing water from the other tanks. Keep up the good work.

[@lonetrader00]

I have a small upgrade for your venting. Get a 2X1 reducer for the bung. The bung is pipe thread. Then screw a 1" L with threads and use some plumbers thread sealant on the threads. Also. Instead of 2x4's on the center supports, I used 4x4's to the outside frame. Much more support and clearance. this way your connection is much more solid and there is more clearance with out any down pressure on the lower tank. .

[@ACheshireCat2001]

6x6's or 2x6's framed on edge to separate the totes would allow more space for a 2" connection from top spout to bottom bung using a threaded fitting.

[@LDSPrepper]

@breezebro Correct. Thank you. I would recommend O rings or epoxy sealant instead of the flat washer.

[@vanessa46104]

Uniseal! That is all you need to go thru any slim plastic wall (like your tank) with pvc. There are also bulk heads but uniseals are simpler and usually cheaper. Just drill the hole, pop in the seal from the outside, shove the pipe thru with some lube and your done. No leaks.

[@LDSPrepper]

@darthom That is what I wanted to do but I can't get the angles right and there isn't enough space for the 2" pipe. My friend was able to do it with 1" pipe. So it is possible. I prefer your setup over either of mine, if I could get it to work. Thanks for commenting.

[@Chimonger1]

I know this is replying to a fossil video, but folks interested in this system, need to know...Some suggestions: 1. The extra 2x4s holding space for the air vent pipe, should extend over the outer frame for best support...not just across the weaker mid-braces (which aren’t capable of so much pressure on them). 2. Another air vent option: using a tubing that can flatten a bit, instead of hard PVC...no worries about pressure from top tank cracking anything under it. It’s sold by the foot or roll, at hardware stores. It doesn’t entirely close when flattened...there’s always some opening. Bigger volumes under pressure can open it more to vent. But, IDK if that will move the vented air/water fast enough to avoid slowing water output. 3. To easily stretch a too-small rubber gasket over the PVC adapter, smear petroleum jelly on the rubber gasket..helps both preserve the rubber, and helps stretch it onto the PVC pipe.. Petroleum jelly works to rejuvenate rubber gaskets around fridge doors, too.

[@loganv0410]

Outsatnding solution! What Mr Glass (BYU ChE c1978) called an "elegant solution". You could have used flex tubing as small as 1/4" (though 1/2" would be better) since air is highly compressible. I'm capturing the whole series. Thanx for your work!

[@DillysADV]

nice black finger nail polish..hehe on the flange were you drilled through the plastic.. you may have wanted to use a sturdy washer on the outsides of the rubber gaskets to give them a better fit.. that should have prevented the leaking..

[@LDSPrepper]

@willkaren4ver I tested the temp today. The water is still cool.

[@LDSPrepper]

I used the downspout supports with cement nails.

[@LDSPrepper]

@chuckarama451 That was my initial thought. Most people don't know that it rains a foot more in Houston then it does in Seattle. But Houston has 97% sunny days while Seattle has 97% cloudy days. What i am getting at is it rain more in Houston but it all comes at once. Because it rains so hard so fast I wanted to get as much water stored as fast as possible. In order to do that I need to use 2" PVC. 2" PVC is too big to fit on top of the bottom tote.

[@LDSPrepper]

When full both of my totes definitely bulge but I have had no screws pop. these totes are designed to stack 3-4 high. Of course that is not with them connected so the fluid can flow from one to the other.

[@soot182]

I like the first method better. I'm going to copy your set-up to the T. Originally I had planned on connecting 4 55 gal barrels but I like the look of this system because If you used a single container someone that wasn't really paying attention or didn't know any better might mistake this for an AC unit from a distance. Also, I too live in the Houston area and have similar brick on my home and the look of it against the home is the best I've seen. Great job!

[@depravedpuma]

Good system. I do have to mention that in several states it is actually illegal to harvest rain water do to wet lands and water shed laws. So these systems although important may have to be done covertly and showing it on you tube may not be wise but thank you for the info.

[@LDSPrepper]

Thank you for your comment. Others have recommended the same thing. I don't feel it will work. There are too many problems to outline here. Please try this and let us know how it goes. It would be great if it did work though.

[@LDSPrepper]

Excellent recommendation. Thank you.

[@gasmasher]

Thanks for the videos. I am planning a similar setup now. Instead of running the lower tanks bung to a vent pipe hanging in the breeze just tap it into the downspout between tanks. That will allow the pressurized air in the lower tank to vent into the top tank and you don't have to worry about extra bug screens. It will slow down the top tank to bottom tank fill rate but that is a faulty test anyway. You are concerned with water flowing during rain, not a full top and empty bottom.

[@homesteadfromscratch]

This may be 12 year old news at this point, but Uniseals work very well in this application in place of tank to tank bulkheads or self sealing options. They are made of TPE melt-processable rubber. Best of all never a leak!

[@Nctbgs]

What is a uniseal ?

[@homesteadfromscratch]

@@Nctbgs That is the name brand. They are designed to fit in a thin wall tank and then similar to a self sealing PEX, the sides compress around pipe. You can Google them by name. Amazon carries them as well. Keep in mind the sizes are based off the OD size of the pipe. You can look up a chart on their website. I hope that helps.

[@001afs]

For a better solution on the air pressure problem, just put an empty hose inside the 2" "clear pvc pipe" all the way to the bottom tote (make sure it is on the top part) and it will get the air out allowing water to enter. This way you don´t make holes on caps or buy pressure valvs...

[@DC2080]

Elevating top tote2have top tote valve connect2bottom tote bung with 2" pipe also eliminates need for a vent-the air from bottom tote goes up through the down-flowing water. This will reduce water flow rate (down) as air comes up, so rain gutter will fill&overflow at some lower rainfall rate (inches per hour) than having a separate vent line. So, given that, a 2" vent line-instead of 1"- would allow air to go up as fast as water came down, maximizing in-flow in heavier rains.

[@LDSPrepper]

My brother did just that. It worked great. I like the cages "locking" into each other so I decided not to go that route.

[@LikeOnATree]

Dude, these are great videos! Thanks for making them!

[@brdavid62]

Just a suggestion for when you drill holes and having a leak try using a product called uniseal they work great in aquaponics I use them for plumbing my ibc totes for fish great video

[@Chimonger1]

I like the 1st version...I agree...never cut holes in water containers, if it can be avoided!!

[@LDSPrepper]

@cmikl3518 Really?! You may need to watch the video again. Both systems work perfectly as built.

[@1oldarmyguy]

Nice job. Great detail...keep it up.

[@LDSPrepper]

I just did that on my last system. Take a look at the new video and let me know what you think.

[@cowboy898]

That is what I thought, so I was surprised when it popped. I will look at it again tonight. Thanks.

[@LDSPrepper]

@econewpower Thank you. You too.

[@stevesamoffgridsmallholdin5378]

Great video I have been getting some ideas on connecting double stacking ibc tanks for rain water catchment useful tips on the venting thanks

[@phakemonn9999]

I just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents... Why not just connect a flow line of pvc from the spigot of the top tank to a hole cut in the front top center of the bottom tank, so there would never be a venting problem, and still fill up both tanks? You wouldn't need as much pvc, and it's a lot less joints that could start leaking. You could still use the bottom spigot as the release, just maybe throw a 90 deg & ball valve with an adapter on there if you need it...

[@francesco3207]

After years of yard flooding and ponding water, and 'experts' wanting $4 to $5K dollars for ridiculous network of french drains (I"m in America not France), I decided to start with ganged rain water collection. here in the carolinas we get torrential rains in the winter/spring and then bone dry in spring/summer and most of Oct/Dec ... If you can't beat the rain, collect it.

[@rustyul]

When pluming a house you have vent stacks that go through the roof to vent the waste water system. With your original setup you can replace the elbow that goes to the bottom tank with a "T" then extend a pipe from the T to above the tank. You can then put an under-sink vent valve on top of the stack and this will seal off the tank until it needs to be vented. It's basically a one-way check valve that will open when negative pressure (venting) is needed. No holes to cut in the totes at all. BTW, 2" pipe is overkill. You neck down to your valves at the end anyway so anything over the diameter of the valve is wasted. I have 1" NPT adapters that thread on to the buttress threads on the tote and I use 1" pipe to hook up the tanks and vent as explained above. I can handle the piping on the outside in favor of not cutting holes in the totes...

[@kristiclaverie4748]

7 years later and your advice is still helping people! I'm building this setup this weekend and am using your venting idea. Thanks!

[@willwade1101]

You could leave a larger space between the totes and plumb the top tote into the top bung of the lower tote

[@spatters1971]

I'm thinking of a float valve (like eBay "3/8" Adjustable Mini Float Valve", under $3) under the cap so that it vents until it's almost full then shuts the valve. Thoughts?

[@TheEmosesnepho]

You should use a bulkhead connector which will allow you to use rubber washers and screw tighten that tank in the hole of the other tank. That will assure a tight drip-proof fit.

[@LDSPrepper]

I did that on the last system I just built. Take a look at the new video and let me know what you think.

[@jimferguson9528]

A simple backflow preventer should from Home Depot should allow the air to escape while blocking the water.They are commonly rated at 100 PSI and can be purchased for

[@SpaceCraftsman]

Look in the toilet tank section for the large elastomer washers and fittings

[@TomBrueggen]

I think the second method is legit, but it looks like you tied into the bottom tank a little low from the top. Seems you would still get an air pocket in the top. I'm sure you can get a 2" tight elbow that would allow you to come out the top of the tank and turn 90°. Then come out and tie in with the drain from the top tank. You should also put an extra valve 20" off the ground so you can fill buckets if needed.

[@LDSPrepper]

@mainbearing68 Great idea. I like it. Thanks.

[@LDSPrepper]

@hallard069 No one has said anything. They all know I'm a prepper because we meet once a year and talk about prepping. I think they just put up with me.

[@homesteadbarron]

Great Fix... Was wandering, when you assembled it, how you were going to solve the ventelation problem. I thought maybe a kitchen sink drain would solve the porblem. If your Idea leaks where you cut the hole try either a kitchen or laundry sink drain, It will screw together nicely and it'll come with a gasket... Like your work...

[@scarmenl]

One suggestion. There is such a thing as hot air plastic welding. You could get your connectors welded right to the tanks.

[@atlantaunsheltered]

First, I want to thank you for this wonderful series. I admire not only the care you put into designing and executing the system itself, but also the care you put into patiently explaining and recording. What a great job you did with this! Second, I have a question about a potential third venting/connection between the two tanks: Did you explore elbowing a pipe from the outflow on the top tank back in between the two tanks, and then into the top opening on the bottom tank. This would be something like your solution #2 but it wouldn't require cutting a hole in the bottom tank, although I suppose it would require elevating the top tank to allow room for the (2 inch?) pipe?

[@LDSPrepper]

+Ken Edelstein I haven't given that method a try. I really don't like cutting holes into the tank. But it could work. If you give it a try let us know how it goes.

[@LDSPrepper]

I do not simply in case there is a leak. That way if there is I only lose what is in one tote.

[@homesteadbarron]

@SpaceCraftsman Brilliant!!, The tank to toilet fitting (pvc) comes with a rubber washer gasket and gives you 2" pipe threads on the out side to hook to, clean and goof-proof. Think I'll try it.

[@DC2080]

I'm going to add a "clear pvc pipe", nominal size "1/4" and have a sight gauge to show water level of the 2-tote stack. I think 8' is the stock size and should go into the bottom 2" horizontal pvc pipe coming down from top to bottom tote - will put another T and appropriate adapters to insert the 1/4 clear pipe

[@LDSPrepper]

@depravedpuma God Bless Texas!

[@vaillyn85]

Thank you for all the details.

[@LDSPrepper]

@PatriotPoke I agree. I think that is exactly what happened.

[@rchopp]

I think option 1 will still give you a little bit better venting, however with option 2 I would use o-rings instead of the gaskets, nice job you'll have plenty of water either way looking forward to seeing the gutter hook-up video, also just wondered are you concerned with the ground settling with over 4000 pounds of water in the tanks if the ground got too wet ? Really enjoy your videos very informative Thanks for sharing

[@claudiagamino6499]

Try uniseals. They work much bette, zero leaks.

[@stoatrepublic]

Uniseals are the best, I had to order mine from the States because I couldn't find them here in the UK. Well worth the expense no regrets.

[@homesteadbarron]

@LDSPrepper Correction, respectivly, If the bung is the same as an oil drum, the threds are 2" pipe threds. However, from your video there doesn't seem to be enough room between the totes. So your plan seem to be the best solution. The only other thing I can see, which might not be feesable, is to turn the top tote upside down in the frame and use a 2" union joint, bung to bung and connect the top tote valve to the rain spout, one problem would be no room for a cutoff valve between the totes.WBS

[@cmikl3518]

Another thought would be to protect the corners with square pieces of hard plastic secured with cable ties.

[@unionse7en]

a more robust bulkhead fitting should be implemented. One with two flanges that sandwich the tote walls.

[@ooohhitskaren63]

Cool, I really like your idea. I like the first settup the best, I would hate to drill a hole in the side of the tanks.

[@jonathanalberti1194]

This is a great design!

[@drew2685]

Thanks so much for this video! I like that you are in Houston, as I am too. What kind of PSI do you get on the two versions you have? I have a 100 ft of drip line I would like to run off a setup like this.

[@LDSPrepper]

@kary1982v6 Great idea. Thanks.

[@brucecarter6904]

You should have just took the 2" bung out and replaced it with a 2" to 1" bushing

[@marvinblackburn3659]

Have you ever thought of turning the bottom IBC tank upside down to prevent having to drill a additional hole in your bottom tank?

[@jimferguson9528]

I should’ve been more specific. The backflow preventer I referenced is also called a “non-spring loaded ball check valve”. When water floats the ball into a seat, the ball stops the flow of water past the valve. Air can escape past the valve until the ball floats.

[@LDSPrepper]

@rchopp If you know where I can get some 2" o-rings please let me know. I have thought about the ground settling. I measured the distance from the top of the two totes and will measure again every month or so to see if there is any change. I am not worried about it because I think the cinder blocks will distribute the weight well enough.

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Thank you for sharing this important information listening from Brownwood Texas

[@jimmy1105ful]

Put a "T" fitting on existing pipe and create a vent/overflow.

[@LDSPrepper]

I love the concept but I am not following the application. I don't understand what you mean by let it loose on the bottom". I would think it needs to be above the water. I don't see how you could use 1/2" PVC. Please try explaining it differently or send me a personal message. I'm almost there but need some more clarification. Thanks

[@chuckarama451]

Ah yes. I like that better. What do you think the feasability is of taking it out the bottom valve of the top cube and wrapping your pvc down underneath into the top bung of the bottom cube? I think 1" is appropriate, as you said.

[@ironleatherwood1357]

Thanks

[@mosbysmen]

you should paint those pvc pipes ,will make them last longer

[@DC2080]

Outstanding simplicity. Thanks for that feedback. Saved me from buying more expensive parts and spending more time. . . . Also, thanks for your wild hog "equipment" info - going to buy the next more expensive version of the electronic ear muffs and will study the NVG monocular more - had good reviews from military folks.

[@tomw5vlt119]

Hi, great info. Question, the 4 tote system 2 + 2 totes with the upper going to the high drilled hole in the lower tote... don't you lose the top 5-6 inches of the tote (above the pipe entry point) that would be unable to vent? Also, do you still use these types of solutions for water storage and emergency water now that you're in Idaho, or did you go to a well or another type of solution? Thanks again.

[@LDSPrepper]

The Tte My daughter has this system in Idaho and is using it very successfully.

[@cowboy898]

Great. Thanks for all the info.

[@ncvancamper5075]

Just curious, why didn't you go from the out put of the top tank to the top cap of the bottom tank. Granted you would have to reduce the transfer pipe, but then the tank remains intact. And air trapped the top of the bottom tank gets pushed up to the top tank trough a single pipe that also carries the water to the bottom one.

[@charlie236]

Im surprised no one has thought of flipping the bottom tote inside the cage so that the spigots line up... seal the cap (which would now be at the bottom of the bottom tote) and drill the bung much like you did for the vent, only use it as the spigot to feed your water hose, leave your bottom spigot in the open position, sitting above the top tank and it will automatically vent as it fills. I hope you can picture what im trying to describe.

[@LDSPrepper]

Brilliant! So, what you are saying is to get a hose, like a 1/2" RV water hose, run it inside the 2" PVC so that the end of the hose goes from the bottom of the top tote to the top of the inside of the bottom tote. That totally makes sense. How would you keep the hose at the top of the bottom tote?

[@LDSPrepper]

OK, I've spent the last hour trying to figure out how that would work and I don't see it. Please explain how it will allow air but not water to vent. I would love if something so simple would work.

[@johndoe-uf9pu]

might I recommend harbor freight forstner bit set. cheap n effective

[@LDSPrepper]

That would put the spigot of the bottom tote at the top of the tote. I'm not sure how you would get the water out.

[@charlie236]

Reread my comment and the last bit wasn't very clear... the "bottom" spigot that i said to leave open would be the one from the drilled bung from the bottom side of the bottom tank, run the water hose so that it is sitting above the top tank and it will automatically vent as it fills up.

[@LDSPrepper]

OK, great. That makes sense. I can't seem to find it on Home Depots or Lowes site. I would like to buy it and give it a try. I think it is a great idea. Do you have a store part number or product name/number? Thanks.

[@SolarWinds63]

You can use poly hose to vent.

[@morzaprowashpressurewashin5673]

my air vent is going to be my overflow line.

[@rangua]

Yea, i wasnt thinking clearly. You still need an extra hole for venting. What about a valve that would close when the water hits the top?

[@honeyy79]

AMG. I would have screamed if i saw that lizzard on my system :D

[@homesteadbarron]

@scarmenl True! your comment reminds me of friction welding. What do you think?

[@LDSPrepper]

I did. About a year ago.

[@ooohhitskaren63]

I was talking with my fiancee about what you are doing, and it dawned on me, have you checked the temp of the water after the tanks are filled up for about a week? You may run into a problem with the water heating up so hot you can't use it on the garden. Black absorbs heat.

[@chriskwakernaat2328]

Lizard be like : "Look mum , i'm on tv"

[@hendrymuljadi739]

question on your venting. If I was going with 4 totes and one stack on top of each other, do I need to create additional venting pipe on the second lower tote?