Range Rover P38 # 072 - Fluid Leak From Engine

After changing to winter tires I discovered a fluid leak from the engine. Today we'll investigate what the source is and try to fix it.
You can reach me at [e-mail] if you want to get in touch with me.
Follow me on Twitter: / 0ddj4rl3 or Instagram: / 0ddj4rl3
Please consider subscribing. And as always please comment below and I'll respond as best as I can.
Thanks for watching, and I hope you found this video interesting.

[@gunnarhaldorsen4185]

Really good video! You make diagnostics look so easy and straight forward. Thanks a lot for posting this one; looking forward to see more! Greetings from Norway!

[@codonovn]

I replaced my diesel return pipes with silicon hose some years ago after leaks and fuel leak back were causing slow starting. Never had anymore trouble, she always starts on the button, of course after the four seconds. No sign of leakage or any deterioration of the silicon and they look a nice yellow colour. Thanks for the videos.

[@oninefolitude1956]

engine sounds good.

[@stefanoranucci2347]

hi, you are a great person Very good my warmest congratulations your videos are helping me a lot in the restoration of my p38. I have a question to ask you, how did you make the modification to the tappet cover Oil vapor recycling? how he eliminated the oil vapor recovery tank from the tappet cover to the intake circuit. my cause an incompetent was broken and i can't find it. thank you very kind and keep it up

[@bonirasras7234]

P38 possible oil leaks Oil filtercap Yes thats manfold pipe ..other possible points are. Oilfiller cap Turbo hose Oil dip stick Engine and gearbox Oil hoses to the cooler

[@davidrayner2831]

👍

[@peterbradley6202]

Are you going to put i pit in the new workshop? It would be very handy for working under cars.

[@WorkOnP38]

Hi Peter and thanks for watching. I'm putting a lift in the new workshop. I hope to put it in sometime in a couple of weeks.

[@peterbradley6202]

cool. should make life easier.

[@mrsmith6316]

Hi again, When it finally happens (and it will!) and you get leaking o rings (due to age and ethanol in the fuel) on the vp37 fuel injection pump (FIP) could you do a video of changing them please? I believe the top one is easy, it's the other 2 that are more challenging. Use Viton o rings, they cost more but last a lot longer.

[@WorkOnP38]

Hi and thanks for the tip Hop Meister. I sure will do a rebuild of the injection pump (FIP) sometime once the workshop is done. I have a rebuild kit with all the o-rings and gaskets already (original Bosch). It's probably a time consuming job, so like you say it's good advice to use proper parts. Thanks for watching!

[@mrsmith6316]

@@WorkOnP38 Thanks. I have a spare FIP now and will be getting the o rings shortly. I've started using veg oil mix due to diesel prices and this speeds up o ring failure. But the savings outweigh the new o rings!

[@WorkOnP38]

Wow, cool to hear from someone using veg oil in their P38. I've seen and heard a lot about it but never in the Range Rovers. Nice to know that it's possible. I don't know very much about the FIP, and I've been trying to figure out what a complete rebuild involves though. If there's other parts that should or need to be replaced, or if it's just the o-rings and gaskets that wear out. I've been looking to find a spare FIP, but since I have two P38s I figured I could rebuild one first for trail and error, and I always have the Excursion as a back-up vehicle so I don't need to rush fixing the P38 if something fails.

[@mrsmith6316]

@@WorkOnP38 I finally changed my 2 gaskets with the pump in place. Make sure you mark the correct part of the pump body for reassembling your pump correctly. I didn't and it took 90 mins to finally get it running nicely. I must have adjusted to compensate for timing chain stretch (166, 500 miles engine) because it starts up really powerfully now and I have a noticeable improvement in performance. I will need to replace all the o rings and seals at some point but currently I have no leaks. Your climate is colder than here so you may need to do more with your veg oil to stop it gelling up in the cold.

[@WorkOnP38]

Thanks for the follow-up Hop Meister. Nice to hear that you managed to repair it in-vehicle, and thanks for the excellent tips.

[@sebczajna700]

Hi i have the same model , colour and engine. Colud You tel me about your idlle speed rpm? I have 920 and dont know its correct?And when i put stering wheel maximum to right or left and will drive then car have Opportunity to braking and i hear like „ jumping tires”- this is problem with visco coupling?

[@mrsmith6316]

Mine is 750rpm and that is correct as far as I'm aware Seb. No idea about the rest, sorry

[@WorkOnP38]

Hi, and thanks for watching. Idle is supposed to be 750 ± 50 according to the workshop manual (like Hop Meister says). Of course when warmed up. If it's cold it'll of course idle a bit higher. I think 1200 is the highest I've seen on mine in the coldest winter months. It quickly idles down to 750 in a matter of a minute or two though. The "jumping tires" makes me think a wheel might be binding, or catching on something. It can be the front diff, but I'd check to see that the tires don't rub against anything at full lock. There's a couple of end-stops that is supposed to stop it from happening that might need adjusting.

[@WorkOnP38]

Here's the adjustment guide: drive.google.com/open?id=1RIuQdOG5ePqmyOerMrUzxGFMfIBU9h8U

[@sebczajna700]

Work On P38 I try to explain when I driving on parking or i will turn arround then i feel like Central diferential its bloked. Its very hard to driving and i hear traction control working. When i have cold engine my rpm 1100-1200, when hot 920-compare to yours its to high.I working like mechanic but i first have 2.5tds and dont know everything about this engine,P38 its spend my dream🍻

[@WorkOnP38]

I'd try and check those stop adjustments linked above first. Might be transfer case related too, but I'm not sure if it would be affected by tights turns. The front diff will need to do some work, but then I would think you might hear other noises from it while driving too. Can be sensor-related (ABS-sensor or wire) that causes the traction control to think a wheel is spinning and applying the brakes to avoid wheel spin. Do a visual inspection of the ABS-cables, maybe try to relocate them a bit to see if it makes any changes. Maybe even pull the fuses to the ABS/traction control to see if the problem goes away too?