Raptor Aux Light and Switch Wiring

In this video I show you how to use your aux switches in the cab of your Gen 1 Ford F150 SVT Raptor! I also show you briefly how to solder!
Wire colors
-AUX 1 30A (fuse #18) Yellow
-AUX 2 30A (fuse #19) Green with Brown tracer
-AUX 3 15A (fuse #44) Purple with Green tracer
-AUX 4 10A (fuse #28) Brown
-Green, Blue, Purple and Red are the “pass through wires”
Lights
-gglights.com/c...
Tools
-10 mm socket
-Wire cutter
-Wire stripper
-Wire crimper
-Soldering iron w/ solder
Parts used
-butt connector
-eyelet crimp connector
-heat shrink
-zip ties

[@siamesestallions8381]

Great video super detailed & helpful

[@masonhuey4083]

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[@FreedomIsntFree2023]

Minute Maintenance....good video!

[@elgato7824]

Awesome video man, very thorough.

[@minutemaintenance7385]

Appreciate it! Thank you.

[@pinchenayyytv9478]

Thank you for this video!!

[@minutemaintenance7385]

You are so welcome!

[@hankgs]

Subscribed, great detailed video(s)

[@cjgambill]

Thank you!

[@brucewalton7107]

Did you have to connect power to the battery or just the upfitter swirch

[@hankgs]

Does the factory switch have a relay/ fuse? I guess you only needed the + and - wires that went to the lights...(?) I have an led light bar I was going to install on my 2014 and it doesn't have wiring harness, wondering if I need just the ground and positive or if I need a relay... Thanks, great vid

[@minutemaintenance7385]

The factory switches have fuses but no relay. You would add the relay after the pass through, in the engine bay.

[@SvtRaptor13]

So the aux switch wires arent powered already? On a 2018 raptor the wires from the aux switches were already hot just needed to connect the lights to it

[@minutemaintenance7385]

The wires coming out of the switches are hot, but they need to be connected to a "pass through" wire if you're running something on the outside of the truck.

[@FreedomIsntFree2023]

The Gen 1 upfitter switch outputs are hot, like the Gen 2. However, on the Gen 1 these go area behind the glove box, not under the hood like the Gen 2. For the Gen 1, you use the "pass-thru" wires to get the power outside the cab (into the engine compartment). For the Gen 2, those same "pass-thru" wires allow a connection from under the hood, back into the cab. The pass-thru wires are used for the same function, just in opposite direction for the Gen1 & Gen 2. Hope that makes sense?

[@perrycarditi5]

Do you notice any hood glare when driving at night? Also, any issues from dust, snow, or fog with the yellows up high? Pro’s or cons since installing?

[@minutemaintenance7385]

There is a little bit of glare but the benefits outweigh it. They are a huge help. I've done a couple night runs with them and was never worried about something jumping in front of me unexpectedly.

[@perrycarditi5]

@@minutemaintenance7385 very cool, thanks

[@venomous]

i need to get some more wire for my lights, which gauge should be used on this?

[@minutemaintenance7385]

16 gauge should be fine.

[@venomous]

@@minutemaintenance7385 thanks

[@MaddSweetGT500]

So where did that yellow wire come from? What did you connect it to?

[@minutemaintenance7385]

Yellow wire? Under the hood?

[@FreedomIsntFree2023]

That yellow wire under the dash is the output wire from the upfitter switch (Ford wire). He connected it to the blue "pass-thru" wire, allowing the upfitter switch to power the ditch lights.

[@derickdouangnouanexay]

So we don’t need the relay to the lights

[@minutemaintenance7385]

Yes, you will need to use a relay still to run the lights. The amp draw is too high and would pop a fuse.

[@derickdouangnouanexay]

@@minutemaintenance7385 so keep the relay an and fuse an wire all that to the aux switch in the truck

[@derickdouangnouanexay]

An I’m using a small square pod to

[@minutemaintenance7385]

So the wire you run from the aux switch will power the relay. The relay is connected to power, ground, and sent towards the light.

[@RyanLosey]

You don't need a relay if the load is under the amp rating of the aux switch used. you would only need the relay if the load has a greater draw that the rating of the switch connected to. In this case a couple small LED's you probably wouldn't need a relay.

[@jennabarry27]

Thank you!!