Rat Rod No More Part I Nbr 308

[@peterloosigian7295]

You did a great job on that sprocket cover! I love the way you insured the location of the locating pin. Drilling through the cover is ingenious! I have never seen such a beautiful weld on sand cast aluminum. Even if you could buy an aftermarket cover that would work, saving the original is the right way to go.

[@donlipsky2696]

Good ‘how to’ of setting up a part to be machined and repaired!

[@johnranallo424]

Very enjoyable to watch you work Mr. IronHead.

[@johnhughes8563]

Excellent workmanship.

[@Jim-gs3jo]

Referring to picking up that hole (at about 15-1/2 minutes in) your method is very good. Quick and easy. Here's another way you could try in the future. If a drill blank fits snugly in the hole, and doesn't wiggle around, you could leave the blank in the hole and pick up on it with an Interapid (or similar) or a Blake Co-Ax. Getting dialed in on broken out holes is always a little bit interesting. So much depends on what you have to work with and what you need to do to hold it in the mill.

[@WILKSVILLE]

Spot on !

[@deanneufell3284]

I am guilty of running a 23 tooth back in the day :) (loved the lower rpms on the highway)

[@warrencombes8256]

Absolutely great vid!

[@harolddalesr8365]

Good morning sir , from se utah😊

[@dalespringerwilson4233]

Nice welds, saving that old pourous stuff is fun ain't it....

[@billpayn-p1c]

working on a 1980 right now that had so much sludge in the bottom of the crankcase it wouldn't return oil to the tank

[@terrymassey7619]

Very interesting! Nice work Gary, what process do you use to get the cast parts so clean?

[@enemyilaf]

Good video, definitely enjoyed seeing the tig repair work. Now I am glad you are tackling the frame, since there is something I would like to get your thoughts on... On this swingarm I am unsure what bearings are used, but on my 1975 it uses Timken 17520 (race) and 17580 (bearing)... the question is do you go back with the original bearings or go for the Timken (other brands also) 11520 (race) and 11590 (bearing) ? ... as far as the technical drawings on the Timken site, the bearing sets have same dimensions... BUT the kicker is the price... the old bearing numbers cost any where from $68 to $100 for just a single bearing (no race)... the 11590/11520 set can be any where from $8 to $40ish.. Dynamic load is 1100lbs, static load is 1300lbs, so for a sportster this way more than enough. Haha!! I will admit I have two bearing sets that are a perfect example of "bad enough"... Just with slight finger pressure you can lock up the inner ring on the bearings and you can see/feel wavy lumps in the races. Yes it could have been worse, they could have seized to the shaft.. Anyway I was just wondering which bearing sets you use when replacing. And if you do show taking the swingarm apart, would you mind talking on the bearing types. (by the time of your next post, I should have received and installed the 2 sets of 11590/11520 bearings.)

[@enemyilaf]

I had to laugh when reading the service manual on the '75, since it states to use a punch to remove those outer bearing lock nuts. I am the cheap bastard, so I made my own tool to remove them... At least you know 1 person paid attention to your swingarm video. LOL!

[@jimhmod]

Sebring capacitor?

[@benderbender1233]

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