RC-One : Cylinder, Reed & Intake Install & Testing A Circlip Installation Tool : RC1 : Part 05

[@zoniyat8519]

Thank you for your consistency in producing high quality information-packed videos . You are a great teacher and i am thankful that you put in the work you do, and share it with all to see

[@mikeford5106]

Finally someone on KZbin who REALLY knows what he i discussing! Thank you.

[@monsterunderyourbed5729]

Absolute guru. I thought I was good with the 2T scoots but come to find out there are always bigger fish. You create quality vids that help all levels of enthusiasts brother

[@49ccscoot]

Thank you! There are way bigger fish than both of us. Check out 2StrokeStuffing on here and look up legends like Frits Overmars and Jan Thiel.

[@monsterunderyourbed5729]

@@49ccscoot just discovered Frits thanks to your recommendation but have been following Jan's solid content for a bit. Down here in Richmond I don't see a lot of two strokes (i myself build rucks more it seems now) but my Zuma's, TnG's and Vento's seem to draw a lot of attention. Trying to dial in a 50cc Viaggio (TnG clone) to get better oomph off the line but it does hump 51 on flats with Zuma clutch pack and the 12" sport wheels on it. Using your variator weight instructions to do with what I have which is a full crown royal bag of weights. We have similar disciplines with regards to going way too far into making the usual unusual. Ask me about my 650cc two stroke ZX9R sometime...😏

[@49ccscoot]

@@monsterunderyourbed5729 That sounds like a fun bike! My dream swap is a snow machine turbocharged liter 2T in the TMAX. Prob never gonna happen due to expense and the likelihood of a funeral if I had 200HP in a scooter.

[@nazzytpr]

When you use that kind of sockets with the torque wrench you have to be sure the wrench is at a 90 degree angle with the socket, otherwise the leverage will be longer or shorter and the torque will change!! Great video sir!

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks. Here's a whole bunch more info for anyone interested. www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

[@meatcreap]

@@49ccscoot That's super interesting - good link.

[@christianmccollum1028]

WOW! didn't know that circlip tool existed. Thank you for the demonstration - I'm sold!!!

[@preslavnikolov923]

I go to sleep while watching his vids that's interesting he just relax me 🤣

[@49ccscoot]

I'm not sure to take that as a compliment or an insult, but next time fall asleep with a whole playlist so it can roll some ads for me while you rest. 😆

[@preslavnikolov923]

@@49ccscoot compliment and good idea 🤣

[@meatcreap]

AWESOME video, man! Thanks for making it. You represent the internet at its best!

[@Rasse796]

Very interesting & knowledgeable video. Can't wait for the first start up on this engine. Keep up the good work Brent.

[@danleuca7290]

Congratulations Really I'm following you with a lot of interest and patience

[@warrenfranklin7579]

Super tight build, clean as.

[@49ccscoot]

Thanks!

[@BrendaEM]

Good attention to detail, through the whole process. Hopefully Molossi did their homework on the O-rings. When teaching people the feel of gapping things, I like explaining that the drag should feel like slowly pulling the piece of metal from a refrigerator magnet. When measuring soft things. I unscrew the holding clamp on the caliper, and gently pinch the jaws closed with my fingers, not using the roller at all because they give an unfamiliar mechanical advantage. If I feel need too much force to pinch them, I put my thumb behind the carriage of moveable jaw, and just relieve the friction. [As sharp as they may be, I never use a caliper without first running my thumb down both jaws, though a micrometers can measure the film of a fingerprint, so it's not a good idea on a mic. Once in a while I hold it up to light to see the sliver of light, that they jaws are well aligned. Ironically, I use the sharp ends for a scribe, just like everyone else. LOL! Well, they are US General, after all.]

[@nastynatesscooters9896]

Great stuff! Great engine ! Gonna be a ripper!

[@paulbudford]

Another top video 👌

[@joetaverna5264]

Hey professor you want to no one hell of a motor the M91 B1 McCullough running that bad boy on klotz racing fuel nobody beat have a great day and a better night God bless you and your crew

[@49ccscoot]

I searched those numbers, but nothing came up. Assuming it's a chainsaw?

[@progaragechinskiemotorki]

wspaniałe filmiki :) wspaniały angaż w robotę

[@dc3763]

Nice job as ever !! :)

[@stevejackson3564]

In measuring your distance from top of piston to let's say exhaust port for your timing. With the gap from cylinder wall to piston wall, would that be enough to cause some loss in performance because it's not sealed as if you measured to top of the ring which is most sealed position, I'm just wondering if the blowby because of the gap can cause a false degree reading. To me a gap means less compression because it has to be filled with the compression more than if there was less gap to fill, which could give better performance. Hope you understand what I'm saying. Thanks for your video. Also couldn't we move the ring closer to the top of piston to have a smaller chamber to fill.

[@49ccscoot]

I think the important part for measuring is to use a standard of measurement. The standard of measurement is to use the piston crown. No loss when measuring as long as we try to be accurate. Different folks use different ways to align the piston, but most of us would probably be within a degree or so. If you aren't a professional builder/tuner/racer in tight competition then that should be close enough. There are consequences to different actions. Keeping the thickness at the top of the piston is likely more beneficial than having the ring much nearer the crown.

[@jmcori80]

What rear wheel fit on minarelli c one?I have aprilia sr but the minarelli axle is very small. I could use a piaggio axle or what would be your recommendation.Thank you for your videos, I have learned a lot from them.

[@49ccscoot]

Most use an Aerox hub and wheel when using the Minarelli version of these engines with the Minarelli axle. Whatever can interchange with an Aerox should work.

[@jmcori80]

@@49ccscoot great thanks

[@jeffkrauss5582]

Have you ever tried to make one of those Chinese 90cc bbk into a ported and cleaned up to try and make it close to a malossi one ?

[@49ccscoot]

I have ported quite a few Chinese 52-54mm cylinders. Mostly air cooled. I've owned a couple of liquid cooled. They aren't going to work like the Malossi or any flange mount. They can run pretty strong. The liquid cooled cylinder kits that I had were sort of junk. They worked OK... but they didn't want to seal. I had constant head sealing issues and thought that's just what small LC scoots were like. Then I got the TPR and Malossi and they are much more stable. Most of the big stuff I've had around 96-110cc didn't want to make a lot of power above about 10,500RPM, even with custom made pipes for more revs and porting. The transfer ports start to be so small in comparison to the bore. Look at transfers on a dirtbike 2T of similar size and then look at what we have.

[@preslavnikolov923]

Question can you make 75cc scoot to idel at 800rpm and start at 800 bc mine idels at that speed and it's better bc it has 1000rpm springs if I put 2000rpm springs it will have better take off right

[@49ccscoot]

800RPM is a very low idle for a thumper (single cylinder)... or most bikes really. You can set the idle low if it's in tune and has enough flywheel mass, and it helps to not have large port durations. It's gotta be on the edge of cutting off regularly though, which makes no sense for riding because you don't want it to cut off when you stop and that's going to happen with exceedingly low idle speed at some point. 1000 and 2000RPM springs have little to do with idle. Any springs should support proper idle speeds. Those ratings don't literally mean that they engage at that RPM anyway. 1000RPM springs engage 1000RPM higher than stock. It's not an exact science, but that's the intention. Most small scooters really aren't going to make much power till at least 4000RPM, some much higher.

[@krystian9439]

Hello, I have a Malossi MHR BB 77ccm cylinder, is it worth replacing with a 94ccm Polini? I do not hide I like high power and the best performance ;) The MHR reaches the power of 25-26km Polini 30Km is there a big difference?

[@49ccscoot]

I've been around a 77 before, not a Polini 94. Should be a difference. Probably not huge if the power is where you state. You'll be able to tell though. For me some of this stuff comes down to how much does money matter vs power. The 77 should still be a lot of fun and faster than most stuff that you'll come across.

[@kennethdizon786]

Can i ask man what is the headbolt torque value for 100cc 2stroke scooters i can't see in google thanks in advance

[@49ccscoot]

It will depend on the exact engine or cylinder kit. 10-12Nm is pretty common for stuff that I've worked on, but again it would be best to find information specific to your setup.

[@kennethdizon786]

@@49ccscoot my unit is vento triton gt5 2006 mdl 100cc indicated in paper stock bore hehe 91cm block

[@49ccscoot]

@@kennethdizon786 10-12Nm should work then. That's what I'm using on most of my Minarelli stuff. Those 90s are good street engines IMO. If you can find an exhaust that makes it's power by 10,000-10,500RPM, then you can have basically a big sport setup (with some cylinder setup) that should be able to hold together for a while. The tough part is finding an exhaust that works well in that range. Mine was custom made by a friend.

[@kennethdizon786]

@@49ccscoot my pipe is power pipe but not good the elbow is thrash but i swear its good for my engine and the problem is the airleak when its in high rpm

[@kennethdizon786]

Stock carb 1500 both springs

[@raymondbetancourt6498]

How many gas tanks must I fill to Break in a brand new cylinder on a two stroke?

[@49ccscoot]

You can get a lot of opinions on break-in on any engine. I take it kind of easy for ~20 miles usually. Beyond that, I ride however I want. Some people prefer much more time.

[@nicklasnielsen2128]

hey! very nice video. one thing i noticed - why dont you trust the aluminium bottom gasket? I've assembled at least 10 engines using both copper and aluminium, and never had any issues. Just seems kind of a waste of good matching when you pour a bunch of liquid gasket in there 😃 keep up the good work

[@49ccscoot]

Past experience. I'm used to Chinese Minarelli clones and I've had tons of sealing issues with them. Thanks.

[@ShalomBrother]

Does a crowd foot affect your torque wrench? I was always under the impression it does🤷🏽‍♂️

[@49ccscoot]

www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench

[@claudeperron780]

Hi There, Nice vidéo, as usuall. A Quick tip about squish, dont you know that your base gasketts Will compress about 15% over time??? You should put 15% more thickness, 'cause your squish Will go down almost 0.1mm Why dont you check the uccr?? What fuel are you usine??? Thx!!!!

[@49ccscoot]

I didn't check UCCR because it takes up a good bit of time. I barely made it to the car show as it was and the car shows are my favorite thing ever. I'm running what I believe to be a safe squish. It could be tighter by Malossi's specs and I believe that they would be likely to use caution with their specs and consider these things. Some people will only use about 1% of stroke as their clearance. I can tell you with certainty that at ~500 miles there are no issues related to squish clearance. If you treat the engine as it probably should be, basically like a race or MX style engine, then they are typically pulled apart very often. This isn't going to be an engine that stays together for 10,000 miles at a time. I use premium pump gas. While I will put it in the truck at times, this is a street scoot so I need to use fuel that is readily available. BTW, premium here is generally 10% ethanol and 91-93 octane (R+M)/2.

[@claudeperron780]

@@49ccscoot I dont mind tight squish, but here, it's 91 octane (premium), so i usually keep my street engine of that size under 14:1. I was curious about your uccr number.

[@49ccscoot]

@@claudeperron780 I normally use CCR for mine. I don't think I ever checked my TPR either, so I'm not sure where my more race-oriented setups are. I have checked more sport to mid-race sort of stuff that I've put together and modified. Largely because I've used a lot of unknown sort of parts (especially for 90-100cc Chinese strokers) where I've needed to modify combustion chambers and compromise on timings to get good results from them. With those, I'm usually 7-8:1 CCR. I'm pretty sure it could be pushed higher, but it would depend on timing and use. For street stuff that can last quite a while, that worked well for me.

[@BrendaEM]

I am glad to see, that you aren't using the death-carb. You likely know this, but because it's a carburetor, having a smaller one, usually gives you more torque at low RPMs; having a larger one gives you more HP at high RPMs. (This is where fuel injection has its merits.) If you find yourself sourcing o-rings, Viton is supposed to be good. I was wrong that it does come in other colors than brown. I should also think that just because it's brown, it may not be Viton. Cheap transfer-punch set. (ducks)

[@АнгулиАчмиз-п1ч]

🔥💪👌

[@TEAMVISKAT81]

dude you are doing a great job. so fuck that buthead, your videos are mega good, have been following you for a long time, plus you have a funny dog who does not like the airhose ... kick ass laughed so much

[@Paul_Gale]

Nice informative video , Well done my friend. new sub here. Why are you using the wrong degree wheel with scribble on it ? A 2-stroke degree wheel only goes to 90 degrees. Port timing is symmetrical. Completely confusing if you are trying to learn a degree wheel or follow you if you already know how. 35:00 I hope you're not using that degree wheel to teach how to read 2-cycle port timing. Something so simple can look so confusing with the wrong degree wheel.

[@49ccscoot]

I've used that degree wheel for years. I've never found it confusing so I never thought of it that way. I've got a Motion Pro, but I like the big degree wheel. It's not wrong. It works totally fine.

[@Paul_Gale]

@@49ccscoot so you skip the compliment and the new sub statement and go for the constructive criticism to attack your viewer comment. maybe I shouldn't of subbed. I just learned how to read a degree wsheel and its confusing to follow on a degree wheel designed for a 4 stroke . My wheel goes from 0 to 90, 90 to 0, 0 to 90 90 to 0, a 2-stroke degree wheel

[@49ccscoot]

@@Paul_Gale I appreciate the sub and compliment. I don't believe there was any attack. It wasn't intended that way at least. A degree wheel is basically just a 360 degree protractor. As long as it's marked in a way that lets you see when events are happening, then to me it's not wrong so I was simply providing a response to the claim of it being the wrong wheel. I'm not here to argue with anyone, but I do like to provide a response if something seems inaccurate to me. It might also help to know that I've been attempting to help people with scooters online for nearly 20 years now and I've heard everything from I'm wrong to people wishing my family harm because of it. That probably causes me to take the negatives to heart more than I should. It's obviously your call if you stick around or unsubscribe, but if you prefer folks that won't stand up for themselves and attempt to be accurate then you're probably on the wrong channel. I make mistakes, but I try and I'm honest... and I actually read your comments on a 2+ year old video. Look at a lot of other people doing this and see how many answer 2 month old video comments.

[@m5300a]

❤🍀

[@bravo1412]

Sorry i had no time in the last 6 month! iam busy. with my house and my new Job sry! This Piston/Port mach is from the 60---70s! You Named Frits Overmars the RSA MAN/Father. He sad this: Combustion in an ideal homogeneous air/fuel-mixture has a flame speed of maybe 2 meters per second. So how is it possible that combustion in a 125 cc engine, running at 13000 rpm, is completed within 50 degrees of crankshaft revolution? The answer is turbulence. Burning lumps of mixture are blown across the combustion chamber and then simultaneously start their own fires in every corner. The blowing is taken care of by the squish effect that pinches mixture so in a smaller enging the turbulence are more importent than the time is even shorter! the enging revs more like 14--15000 rpm. in 50cc we are taking 20-22000rpm now in developemt!!! all Guy out there write books and tell people to do this and that are old ! and all of them love the 2 stoke, so the tell them the eazy stepps! Make all corners round. make big ports, make the Piston match the trans- ports!! WAY?? 1 thing thats the eazyes way to make more power! but its not the way to make the most power! I can tell you some of the new stuff but i can tell you all! But i can tell the internet some random numbers! 45 25@21000 80 43@17800 100 54@14900 125 67@ 14200 142 75@ 14200 1 think laminar end turboulent flow You want laminat flow from the inlet- filter- to the Carb! a good carb does its one thing!!!!! than laminar in the case and in the port channels. but than tourbulenz!! after ignition at the momend the ex port obens you want laminal flow again!!! malossi dide a good job!!! you can go to a 2fast 100cc or bidalot usw but than the more power is arround 2--4hp max in a good setup. but we takling 30--32 or 34mm carbs and spacers for the inlet Sir iam out! i dont know when i have time to write you back.

[@bravo1412]

sorry the random nr. are with fuel injektion! and thats not port injektion like the ktmXD is Direkt like the VW bmw benz usw car! the Crankshaft has en oil sump like porsche XD

[@samwittstruck.6685]

Buy a torque adaptor wrench.

[@plowmaster1206]

This guy also makes ammo

[@82Bjarni]

The circlip tool is a unnecessary tool. Some tools make the job harder. I never use sealant on the bottom gasket. Its not necessary.

[@49ccscoot]

Once setup the first time, it's very quick with the circlip tool. I like it. I've done tons of them, but I still have days where they go in easy and days where it takes a few tries. Works first time with the tool. Only thing mine fits is the RC1 so it's always setup for it and quick. I did learn the hard way to always check the clip thoroughly after though. Should do that by hand too, but I got so used to the tool working that I slacked once and the clip came out and ate a new cylinder.

[@Paul_Gale]

@@49ccscoot I like the tool, too. Where did you purchase it? I just had a hard time installing a G clip on my 70cc Mineralli. The G part of the clip broke off and jammed the piston on the second start. I was lucky I wasn't revving it to 10k when I broke off. I managed to pound the piston out the bottom of the cylinder with a wooden handle end of a hammer and hone out 90% of the cylinder gouge. Both rings broke and the piston was trash, bought new but I can't afford a new cylinder.

[@49ccscoot]

@@Paul_Gale I got it directly from the manufacturer on their site. www.buxtools.com/product_catalog.php

[@elizabethmcheffey8699]

FYI Harbor freight sells an open ended crows foot more like an open ended wrench under Pittsburgh brand. This may work? But if you had to grind it who cares🛵🔥