RC-One : Tuning Troubles & A 500 Mile Engine Inspection : RC1 : Part 09

I wanted to begin tuning the carburetor and CVT, but it didn't work out quite as I planned. I had multiple problems that needed troubleshooting along the way. Watch me try to sort it out with fuel system checks, ignition checks, an engine inspection and more. The good news is, I learned something about these simple gravity feed fuel systems that I wouldn't have guessed. I also bought a new tuning tool to improve my data collection capabilities and accuracy!
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Links To Tools & Supplies (Some Are Affiliate Links)
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Songs & Sounds provided from the KZbin Audio Library. (In order of appearance.)
- Ship Bell Sound Effect
- Sun Spots by Silent Partner (Intro)
- Ella Vater by The Mini Vandals
- Magic Chime Sound Effect
- Everything You Wanted by Dan Lebowitz
0:00 Intro
1:17 Dragy Performance Meter
4:00 Float Setting Issues
12:38 Fouling
14:17 Clear Float Bowl
19:38 Fuel Flow Testing
23:40 Sputtering
26:00 Float Height Won't Change
32:24 Sputter Troubleshooting
36:26 Carb Swap & Cable Mod
40:20 Engine Inspection
47:24 Cooling System Flush
48:17 Ignition Tests
51:31 Conclusion
#TwoStrokeProblems #Troubleshooting #ScooterPerformance

[@erikbalint2904]

My girlfriend dont understand why am i dissapearing for days to sort out something wrong with my scooter:D

[@paulbudford]

My wife is used to it now! 😂

[@meatcreap]

Wow, what a journey. These are some of my favorite types of videos because I love seeing how people approach issues. Thanks for the upload!

[@coreylancaster4917]

Fantastic channel for a new 2 stroke enthusiast. Thanks for dropping hard to find knowledge for us!

[@MarkSmith-rc8bx]

Hi Brent... Good to see you back on the Tube! Great video... I do appreciate you sharing your troubleshooting process...

[@m5300a]

It was sparkplug. First rule in 2t tuning is to check/replace plug if driven under rich main jet. Sometime 2 size up jet can be bad, racing plugs are fragile. There is no reference mileage for good or bad plug, you can flood plug with rich jet in half a mile. Good educational video, great work!

[@japup1237]

As usual wow this is a great referencing. 🙋‍♀️ everything's pretty good down under just need better weather🇦🇺 thank you again this is a great one👩‍🔧🙋‍♀️

[@fratermus5502]

Thank you for posting these troubleshooting videos. Very helpful.

[@user-zv3gn4wd8d]

Bro i have watched all your vid Everyone of them You doo the job with pleasure ❤

[@stansegers4490]

Hey Brent, had the same problem with an engine a while ago. Jetting didn't affect anything. It also was the spark plug. Next time post a video of riding before doing al the troubleshooting. It can be helpful to help each other. 🤪 But I'm glad with the new video. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Belgium. 😉

[@SpyHeli]

Fist of all i like your channel, i work a lot with 2 Strokes from Piaggio and the first thing that i seen was that fuel filter and then the NGK Cap. when it was sputtering or not fireing the way it should, here in Germany we have a lot of Scoots 🙂

[@linusyliaho2672]

My booster sounded the exact same and i changed the plug and it ran completely fine, i use the ngk iridium plugs. I also have the mvt DD ignition. 😀

[@claudeperron780]

debugging can be fun!! ;-) Nice video.

[@Gogetter0118]

Always enjoy your content man thank you for being technical and taking the time to pass on that knowledge!! 🙏🙏🙏 My Honda elite w/CP 24 Evo also runs out of gas @ WOT I think I will switch to an open petcock to see if that helps 🤙🏽

[@49ccscoot]

I really don't like vacuum petcocks for tuned stuff. I don't like them period actually. You do need to remember the fuel shutoff whenever you get on or off of the bike with a manual version, but it's so unlikely that it fails in any scenario.

[@michaelhealey2378]

I'm sure youve sorted this by now, but here's something that occurred to me: What if the vent in the fuel tank cap isn't able to flow enough during the highest fuel use, creating low pressure in the space above the fuel in the tank? Thanks for your videos, very theraputic and informational. My son just started scooting and I turned him onto your channel.

[@progaragechinskiemotorki]

fajka i świeca a tyle możliwości było kurde :D dobra robota i pokazanie

[@Manwichman]

Huh?

[@datrollface2863]

@@Manwichman hes speaking polish, idk why tho

[@sPurdy57]

plus once the scooter speed is closer to being satisfied the fuel will not be as forced to the rear of the float bowl, just something to consider. maybe you need a surge tank up from that can recover after a hard launch. We had similar issues with our street cars back in the day

[@nastynatesscooters9896]

Good stuff man

[@bartobuilt2601]

I just got mine in the mail yesterday

[@MistaB44]

It was probably the plug cap, I had 2 NGK caps go bad on me, and experienced the same high RPM misfire sputter. It took me about as much troubleshooting as yourself before something clicked and I said you know what it sounds electrical... This is on my honda elite af16, and I only run the OEM spark plug wire / cap now

[@sandys9791]

Grease can swell o rings and make them larger. You can make custom o-rings with super glue.

[@josefv1256]

good opportunity to test the lectron and compare

[@49ccscoot]

I thought that for a second when I needed another carb to try... and then figured it may be so bad that I don't learn anything. I would like to put it on at some point. This engine is why I bought the Lectron, but given past experience with pistons and the Lectron I haven't been excited about the idea of using it. I also wanted to get a good baseline out of this carb first.

[@josefv1256]

Yes, I think they both have to be ready to compare. Here in Europe there are several scooter competitions and the fastest ride Lectron, I think it's not easy to set up but when you get it you get very good results

[@JunkCCCP]

Doing a bunch of troubleshooting only to find that you could have just thrown a new plug into it is pretty disheartening but it does help to reinforce the idea that you should check the cheap or free things before starting to throw money and time at the problem.

[@camilo8cheryl]

From the sound of the engine, its a plug issue, too cold, sometimes getting a hotter number plug (lower number)solves pre ignition issues..we used those cold plugs on very high compression head or using advance ignition timings..oh boy how i mis my scooter racing/tuning days way back 1998-2004..back then we had to modify a go cart racing magneto to fit our Honda Dio’s and Yamaha Jog nextzone/zr..i like your vids, makes me young again..missed the stress level on pole position days and race day plus staying up till morning doing last minute setup before race day, plus the thrill of illegal night money drag race..always looking out for roaming police🤣

[@stephengraves7432]

I've had a thought about your running out of fuel. The VHST uses interchangeable float valves of different sizes, I ended up replacing the standard one with a 400 float valve to cure simular issue on my racing Zip. Worth a thought

[@paavo5287]

i would swap out the dellorto for a keihin pwk

[@progaragechinskiemotorki]

filtr paliwa musisz dac odwrotnie :D 22:30

[@Hashainderjit123]

After building and tuning my Zuma, it really made me not want to do any more carb tuning. Maybe if I had a bench dyno where I can watch and monitor things easily. I hope fuel injected two strokes come to scooters

[@TURBO5KONING]

the paper filter u used in the video was upside down, there should be an arrow on the side of the filter pointing in direction of flow, fuel from the tank should go into the visible side of the filter so u can see any contamination. otherwise good video again and trust me ur not the only one stripping a whole engine to later find the problem was fixable for a few bucks... 🤪

[@49ccscoot]

Now that I look at the close up video, I see the arrow.

[@blainepaterson8349]

I’ve just seen this, the fuel flow direction was the wrong way on the fuel filter

[@49ccscoot]

@@blainepaterson8349 Yeah, on the paper filter. Luckily it doesn't seem to care. I couldn't see a marking in real life. Magnified on camera, I can see it.

[@blainepaterson8349]

@@49ccscoot I didn’t no if that would slow the flow rate down shouldn’t make much of a difference tho

[@49ccscoot]

@@blainepaterson8349 I'll flip it around because I've seen it now, but I don't think it matters. It's flowing more than enough now.

[@kanohotuata9315]

Hey Brent have you tried using msd wire set? I find that they work better and last longer btw love the channel keep it going 🤙🤙🤙

[@49ccscoot]

I used to have an MSD coil and Moroso spiral wound wire. Is there an MSD solid core wire that you were using?

[@pirrracy]

Also good to purge that black crud from your sys,

[@Team_Nico_Motorsport]

i know this is so late lol but all the people that i know with the 94cc rossa doesnt use the dellorto 28mm carb we use kehlin 28mm and 30mm or polini 28mm however malossi trofei cup they have to use to use the malossi dellorto 28mm that is made for the 94cc rossa so it the carb does work it is just so effy with the float height as you experienced

[@pepelazy3249]

Omg, that float hight problem is my worst enemy. I had the same problem with my scoot, I can't change the main jet and I'm running on a bit rich but if I put just 5 down size, It would run dry... I never solved my mistery

[@robertpierce1981]

That’s scoot life

[@BadMooseRecords]

Did you notice you have the fuelfilter backwards? The cap to the carb, or there is an arrow usually. Usually it doesnt matter if its backwards.

[@49ccscoot]

Yeah. I fixed it later. Thanks.

[@williammoore8252]

I have played with both of those carbs and wasn't in love with either of them. i also have recently learned that the iridium plugs absolutely hate pump gas, go back to standard copper plug if you are running conventional 91 pump fuel they last much much longer. Those plastic plug boots are horrible they break very easy NGK makes "weather proof" all rubber boot that is much better.

[@49ccscoot]

I switched to an NGK BR10EG a bit ago to see how it does. Even if it lasts the same, it's cheaper.

[@jmcori80]

Hi.What temperature would be recommended in a cruise or the maximum temperature that is recommended. I have a c one and the maximum that I have used is at 140f

[@49ccscoot]

Coolant temp? I would prefer to keep it around 120-140F, but they're fine well above that.

[@joshuaharrison9331]

I would say that the starvation problem is due to the carb being angled. I know that this is an acceptable angle for the fuel to immerse the jets however its preventing the floats from sliding up & down to open the needle value right. The angle might work on carbs like a pwk with a hinged float design - but whatever you have seems to need a perpendicular force from gravity. Just my thoughts.

[@49ccscoot]

I don't disagree that it's not ideal. I was told along the way to level out the carb by lengthening the intake or whatever was needed. I stuck with it because it works for everyone else and should work for me. Short intake length trumps ideal carb angle apparently when high RPM power is the goal. There are carbs made that are basically bent so the venturi and up is angled and the bowl sits level.

[@joshuaharrison9331]

@@49ccscoot Yeah I have seen those bent carbs. I wonder if it's just worth testing a longer intake that will level the carb. I bet a pivoting float style carb would be more tolerant of the angle - maybe try a cheapo pwk?

[@joshuaharrison9331]

oh checkit! (I'm still watching the video) - you tried a traditional float style!

[@kamerad1985]

On my DT125R fuelhose inner diameter is 8mm !!! PS: @22:36 the fuelfilter is mounted the wrong way around ;-)

[@peteyparado]

Water are your water temps while u cruzing down the highway go at speed 50+ also do u run a cylinder head temp? And what temps do u c on the head temps? Do u know what the max temps b4 danger would be on the head temps?

[@49ccscoot]

Depends on the weather, but 50-ish is likely 120-140F coolant temp. In real cold weather it may only be around 100. I have a CHT, but pay little attention to it most of the time. I usually watch the EGT much more. CHT was 240-280F before trouble IIRC. CHT will depend on the gauge setup too.

[@preslavnikolov923]

I have problem if I put bigger carb will it be more responsive and will it give some power to wheelie

[@49ccscoot]

Larger carbs aren't usually more responsive. As long as you don't go too big, throttle response should still be good. You may get more power.

[@BrendaEM]

Have you tried testing it on a smooth road VS a bumpy one? I saw some foam in that clear bowl. Hmmm. It appears that the carb is mechanically coupled to the fender. Either way, I would like to see the carb more level. I fear that there might be both/either sticktion and climbing on the floats. Perhaps there is some kind of S-shaped manifold which would raise the engine/front of the carb up so it can can be more level. If the carb was more level, it might float more on the rubber manifold reducing some vibration. It would likely let you set a higher float height, too. Yes indeed, you don't want to change the manifold ID much. I am glad that it was boring engine teardown. : )

[@49ccscoot]

I'm not sure how much difference bumps make. The engine vibration at high RPM will shake the carb around plenty. It's a tradeoff of intake length vs carb angle. The short intake is good for high rev power. The carb is indeed right up against the fender and has worn spots into it where it now sits. On the other hand, the tire has eaten away the center of the fender, so there's no room to move either way for the fender. The carb would have to move. It would be nice if Malossi had a rubber bit that was a little longer for this, but an adapter could be made.

[@BrendaEM]

@@49ccscoot Perhaps an S-bend could be made from 3 of 90-degree bends?

[@rockys777]

​@@49ccscoot check stage 6 intake manifold, then replicate the cnc riser for your rc one manifold. the angle of the stage 6 riser is not straight, im sure you will figure it out, it is very easy for you to make! keep up the content!

[@YouCantSawSawdust]

That left me really frustrated. After all that diagnosis,trial and error,we will never know if it was the spark plug or spark plug cap that was the culprit.

[@probegt75]

It's always the little things that we overlook that make us pull our hair out

[@roobedev3496]

havent watched all the way yet, but could the problem be fuel on the tank dont touch the hose or cant get out because it is pressed to the back? Because the problem is only in accelerations

[@49ccscoot]

My tank is 2.5 gallons, usually at least 1/2 full for any short tests, and the barb is in the bottom center. Good thought, but not likely to apply in my situation.

[@H59006]

very nice video I love the effort and the hard work and stamina/ endurance for keep testing To solve the problem can't wait to see the next video keep up the Good work 2 stroke for live 💯🛵🛵🛵🛵🛵💪

[@runningbear211]

I had similar problem and I found the timing was off and ran bad when hot

[@jeffkrauss5582]

I've had nothing but trouble with these carbs I'm running a 70cc mhr with a delortto 21mm and anytime I go from dead stop to qise open it runs out of fuel slow jets are almost impossible to find and expensive especially shipping then the main jets are always fluctuating from day to day I'm thinking of switching to a pwk what do you think?

[@49ccscoot]

PWK is pretty much to go-to for most tuners.

[@Manwichman]

I just put together a 139qmb with a naraku 91cc bbk. It's on the bench and I'd like to check the compression before putting it in the bike as my current engine is still mounted. How can I check the compression while still on the bench? I put my thumb over the spark plug hole and do feel pressure when it's rolling to TDC but I'm still not sure... Any help I really would appreciate

[@49ccscoot]

I've spun them over with a drill before. Gotta make sure it's rotating in the direction that the engine normally would. It can work on either side, flywheel or variator. A drill, no impact, usually works without loosening a torqued nut even if it is rotated in reverse. That said, if you do rotate in reverse the be sure to retorque the nut after to be sure.

[@Bidalotaerox]

Hey im building 96cc bidalot and im wondering can i use mineralli horizontal components (cylinder crankshaft variator) on c-one or do i need piaggio components

[@49ccscoot]

The RC-One and C-One are Piaggio based. The C-One can use some Piaggio cylinders and flange mount cylinders. The RC-One is only setup for flange mount cylinders.

[@Bidalotaerox]

What about variator? Does minetalli one fit?

[@49ccscoot]

@@Bidalotaerox It's Piaggio based otherwise. The CVT is Piaggio stuff.

[@danielknudsen4946]

what coolers are you using on your macine?

[@49ccscoot]

YZ125 radiators.

[@antonyhermens9985]

💯%

[@isaiahdaquioag7044]

imo, me and my friend tuned our variator without spacers between the boss and driveface if you still have them installed, my bike the short belt is correct but didnt ride all the way in the rear, but WOT sounded and felt like it was skipping, took the spacers out and my belt travel/ rpm was very smooth and pulls on the dig, the belt would ride all the way up in the rear but top end 14krpm range it was not able to stay in the high rpm range

[@49ccscoot]

My belt can't ride all the way to the edge or even that close to it. The belt is too short/thick. It annoys me, but I can't give it much gas taking off anyway so I don't know that it's a big loss for me.

[@isaiahdaquioag7044]

@@49ccscoot for my short minarelli block you and me both know that our belts can’t ride up fully lol, no matter what we could do, my block had a full matching cvt stage6 also, weird that it could only ride that high sadly but it still hit 14k rpms and i was okay with it as long as i was in that range vs with spacers im probably only 12krpm range and belt riding half way, only thing i could think of is an MHR belt 815mm long vs stage6 805mm long, or even a longer belt with same thickness and teeth angle, sadly i sold that bike before i could even think of trying different belts

[@isaiahdaquioag7044]

@@49ccscoot another thing i could think of for your bike is grab longer gears, i know for minarelli long block 9-1 gears max out about 84mph on my friend’s 84cc polini evo, my other friend’s 70cc metrakit build it only hit 60mph with 12-1 stock gears, it had a lot of vibration and his bike sounded like a rev limiter lol, all that went away and we achieved 80mph on 9-1 gears, weights tuning and jetting was extremely frustrating due to the bike not being able to rev fully, your bike can easily hit 90mph for 94cc class because i’ve seen 2fast 94cc builds hitting higher than 80mph range

[@isaiahdaquioag7044]

@@49ccscoot i believe spacers would serve a better purpose for drag racing due to the belt riding higher in the rear pulley, i’ve experienced faster rpms but it couldnt reach the peak rpm range my build was a stage6 “modular” 70cc roost rs5 pipe, mvt, 28pwk keihin, stage6 reeds, stage6 overrange mk2 clutch/ wing bell, 8.4-1 gears flats 80mph slight decline 84mph, gave up on the bike cuz it would be too hot for a watercool, but i’ve been told my bore could have been ported more (2nd true build) a $60 degree wheel couldve helped me keep this bike Also if you do know the angles in your overrange rear pulley it would help with top speed, i know i’ve only hit 44mph for a 41degree angle vs 60mph with a 38degree angle in a stage6 overrange rear pulley, with those numbers my build that time was a ported contessa 70cc to roost rs5 exhaust, stock mag and cdi, this bore i’ve ported it fully and ran like a champ for air cool (first build)

[@isaiahdaquioag7044]

My 70cc malossi sport, s6 pro rep pipe, mhr reed cage, 28pwk keihin, mvt, 2005 mhr cvt, mhr delta clutch/ bell 9-1gears, i’ve had the rear pulley on 41 degrees also, tapped out 60-62mph downhills, changed to c16 and still same mph, it was only until i started my s6 build that i found out my rear pulley could have been at 38degrees, i could only imagine having a fast reliable cast iron bore bike but it was too late lol

[@garethmilne6887]

Look at the angle the carb is sitting at! While I appreciate this maybe a stock angle. This would be the first thing I'd modify to get it sitting as flat as possible. Definitely would have been spark plug cap tho

[@49ccscoot]

I get it, but my logic was that it works for everyone else so there's no reason that it shouldn't work for me and cause all of my problems. It also happens to fit under my seat, which is helpful.

[@garethmilne6887]

@@49ccscoot not keen to fabricobble something up and see how she goes?

[@49ccscoot]

@@garethmilne6887 Depends if I have any more trouble with it. It is a tradeoff, because the intake path would have to be longer and the short intake is good for high RPM power.

[@garethmilne6887]

@@49ccscoot yeah I hears ya. And more work. Keep on having fun. That's the main thing!

[@sPurdy57]

if your fuel supply is at the rear of the scooter under acceleration how can you expect it to remain as tested ?

[@49ccscoot]

You can't, but you have to work within constraints of all conditions. Can't set the float level higher and then have it overflow most of the time and repositioning the carb isn't ideal.

[@sPurdy57]

typically the fuel source in not behind the engine especially in a drag racing situation unless you have a fuel pump, I thought under your g forces the carb could not be satisfied.@@49ccscoot

[@peterjohn3180]

What was the change in ring gap? I may have missed you saying it I get distracted! I asked as I wonder how long a ring lasts, when racing karts the ring lasted about 2 hours before you lost power. Whole engine needed rebuild every 5-10 hours, times change and they did 21,000 rpm ( single gear no clutch, push start!), rc1 being a race engine, I wonder how long it lasts? Also I've seen PWK carbs with a float chamber at 30 or 45 degrees so you can keep a level bowl and an angled Venturi...... Saw it on 2strokestuffing . I have not seen any where that sells them?!

[@49ccscoot]

It was 0.006" when assembled. 0.010" at 469 miles. 0.012" at 2,154 miles. Both the piston and the ring wear quite a bit initially and then the wear rate tapers off.

[@knowone6214]

needle and seat sticking or bad resistor plug cap

[@preslavnikolov923]

And at the end did you some how found what was the problem because it's interesting one

[@49ccscoot]

Spark plug & cap.

[@preslavnikolov923]

@@49ccscoot I had almost the same problem the air filter got bad and the plug

[@preslavnikolov923]

@@49ccscoot and I have question will a 17.5mm carb make some difference over the stock 12mm whit my 70cc kit

[@49ccscoot]

@@preslavnikolov923 It should help it run a little cooler and hopefully make a little more power.

[@preslavnikolov923]

@@49ccscoot I hope I got a bet whit my dad that it will improve the work of the bike if i lose I won't be Abel to tune it any more

[@mohdjemadil4527]

I think you should somehow make the carb more straight than original(45 degree)

[@49ccscoot]

The angled carb is a compromise. Can't really have a level carb and the shortest intake path possible so intake length would have to be increased. That may have some effect on high RPM output. I don't know that it would be a lot. May not even be something I'd notice. There are carbs made that are bent above the bowl. The bowl can sit roughly level while the carb fits a short intake.

[@josefv1256]

can you change the direction of the carburetor 90 degrees?

[@user-yu1hc6cz5l]

А иглу на дроссельной заслонки не пробывал поднимать или опускать?

[@49ccscoot]

Not yet.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

Remember to turn your fuel House the reight Way …. Look at the fuel House ther is a Arow on it , the fuel hat to goo the same Way in like the arow turns

[@49ccscoot]

Yeah. I couldn't see it at the time, but later did. It didn't change anything with flow tests.

[@uwu3130]

ive had the exact same kind on sputtering issues for years with my 50cc and 125cc 4strokes. the 50cc revved to 11k rpm but it always started to sputter around 8k with full throttle. it has a waste spark ignition so basically the same as a 2stroke. i went through 3carbs, 98octane and e85, 3coils, 8sparkplugs, 4cdis, low and high compression pistons and still it only worked randomly for like 5minutes until it started to break up. i swapped the 125cc at the start of summer and it worked fine, revved to 9k without problems... until last week... IT STARTED TO SPUTTER EXACTLY LIKE THE 50CC DID AND IM AT THE EDGE OF LOSING MY SANITY. sooo maybe need to switch the spark plug wire? xdd

[@49ccscoot]

Check the wire and cap and try the small gap test. Being a 4 stroke and happening at high RPM, it could be valve float. Seems unlikely for 2 engines, but if both are revved beyond their usual peak it's a possibility.

[@uwu3130]

@@49ccscoot thanks for the advice, ill try to fix it soon!

[@uwu3130]

@@49ccscoot i fixed it! it was a broken ignition coil, turns out they can break if you try to start it without the cap on. i was very confused for a long time because i had 3 coils and couldnt believe they were all broken😅 thank you for the help!

[@49ccscoot]

@@uwu3130 Glad you found the issue!

[@Gabriel-qh5yv]

You shold try the efi kit it is plug and play full injector system... get rid of the old dinosaur carburettor

[@49ccscoot]

What kit did you have it mind? I've seen Ecotrons and similar. My understanding was that the injectors do not like premix.

[@Gabriel-qh5yv]

The kit it is from Rolling Wrench they named EFI and it is plug and play and really easy to tun as well... cames with all need fuel pump ...ecu i...njector and the tunner all the hardware kzbin.info/www/bejne/ombQg3h_pM-kn5Y

[@49ccscoot]

Not sure where it went, but I got a notification that you replied that it's a Rolling Wrench EFI kit. I looked those up, but they're for four-strokes. You can make EFI work. A forum member used an Ecotrons kit. He had to switch to oil injection though, because the injectors didn't like oil mixed in the fuel.

[@Gabriel-qh5yv]

Sorry yes you r right you havee a 2 stroke engine .... they have a large range of good quality of carburettors ... i wish you the best in your next project 🙂 i enjoyed seeing you fixing with confidence your moped

[@user-yu1hc6cz5l]

Здравствуйте подскажите какой расход топлива?

[@49ccscoot]

Somewhere around 40MPG.

[@Markko1986]

​@@49ccscootwooow I was expecting mpg to be much lower for this engine. Thats pretty economical.

[@49ccscoot]

@@Markko1986 If you stay out of the throttle, it's not bad. It can do 20s if you're heavy with the throttle. You really don't need to be with this though. Just chillin' cruisin' around it's barely using any throttle. I can get the wheel up from really low speeds by maybe just over 1/4 throttle sometimes.

[@pjoffs8677]

I have the same fuel problem and cant figure out what to do.

[@49ccscoot]

Lots of ideas in the vid. Start simple. Take the fuel cap off. If flow improves, it's not venting. Go from there with an inspection. Check your hose sizes. Check the filter.

[@pjoffs8677]

@@49ccscoot Ive checked just about everything even tried to adjust the float and nothing works but I have vacuum to suck in the fuel. Should i remove it and do a simple hose with a tap?

[@49ccscoot]

@@pjoffs8677 I don't like vacuum petcocks for anything tuned. I really don't like them at all. Lowest vacuum is at WOT, so it's most likely to have trouble delivering fuel when you need it the most.

[@pjoffs8677]

@@49ccscoot Removed the vacuum and now it shoots 2 foot flames and wont start. Need help

[@49ccscoot]

@@pjoffs8677 You capped the vacuum ports off, right?

[@willemloosman2127]

what exhaust are u using?

[@49ccscoot]

Malossi MHR Big Bore 94cc

[@willemloosman2127]

@@49ccscoot i was asking because that thing should be muchhhhh faster

[@willemloosman2127]

@@49ccscoot look up “thunder aerox 100cc” that guy has same setup only diffrent carberator and exhaust

[@49ccscoot]

@@willemloosman2127 A couple of points. First, that guy would look tiny beside me. I'm 6'2 and 300 pounds. Makes a huge difference. Second, it appears that DDL has built the engine. That means it's professionally ported by a place that does a bunch of these engines, custom intake, their exhaust, big carb, and it makes 35HP or more. I have a hard time gathering too much info because the dutch to english auto-translate is often gibberish, but I can see that stuff. I don't think mine is slow compared to most RC-Ones, but it's definitely slower due to rider weight. At the end of the day, I'm a fat guy on a scooter and if you watch my latest vid for Bikefest 2022 you can see me leaving Harleys with giant engines. Works for me.

[@willemloosman2127]

@@49ccscoot i see ur point now. but i used to build engines for local people because where i live its like a culture. i dont know if u looked at port matching the cillinder to the block? it is super easy if u put a little bit of time in and makes a big noticeable diffrence. but i dont want to be “that guy” who knows it better. i just like to see other peoples builds on the internet.

[@ismailniro]

100 pourcent it’s the plug that fixed it

[@49ccscoot]

I changed the plug multiple times and it never worked till the cap was changed as well.

[@ismailniro]

@@49ccscoot yes it might be right

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

You must turn your fuel filter, The direction the arrow on the Malossi petrol filter faces is the direction the petrol must flow through. in the video here, your Malossi fuel filter is facing the wrong way.

[@49ccscoot]

The Malossi filters (and the original mesh filter) were all on the right way. They had arrows and some can be seen in the video to verify. The lawnmower filter is on backwards. I could not see an arrow. Now I do with the close up video, but I definitely did not see it real time.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

@@49ccscoot okay, as long as we agree on that (-: so I'm satisfied, not many people are aware of it, because EVERYONE mostly turns the fuel filter the way that looks most logical, and if you turn it the wrong way, it can cause problems with fuel filtering and blockage much earlier than it should.

[@49ccscoot]

@@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474 Yeah. I flipped it around earlier since I can see for sure that the paper filter is the wrong way round. Without seeing an arrow, some manufacturers say that direction does not matter and I didn't see an arrow so it went on whichever way looked good to me. One commenter noted that perhaps the filter could block the fuel passage the other way round, if it were to fail internally and come loose. At this point, if I don't see an arrow on a filter like this, I'll probably still place it with the filter element on the tank side. Always glad to learn something. Some of this stuff, when you learn most things alone, is just not obvious. That said, yeah, the arrow is (when enlarged on video).

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

@@49ccscoot That's right, if you're dealing with it all yourself, it's hard to see the mistakes that might come up... have you had any problems with your gear bearing, I'm asking because I discovered when you assembled your Malossi engine that you chose to put a gear bearing in a place that was not intended to have a bearing, even if a bearing fits perfectly, and there I have to admit that I think for sure you will experience some crunch with the gear housing as time goes on. but when that has been said, your engine runs super super fine, except that you messed with it a bit around here at full throttle

[@49ccscoot]

@@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474 It seems fine. The whole bearing deal was kinda wrong. As stated in the original vid, I was thinking it may stiffen up the drive shaft. I have had great success using the third bearing in Minarelli clones vs just the standard 2. Unfortunately, this needle roller bearing just doesn't support anything enough to remove play. I don't think it does much at all. Maybe adds some small amount of friction.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

Have you tried putting any heavy Floater in the sump of your VHST carburettor VHST 28mm Delorto carburettor I know someone changing them to tongue float. Regarding your fuel tank Are you 100% sure that when you give full throttle from the start that your fuel in the tank is not pushed away from your fuel tap, try to fill your petrol tank all the way so that your petrol tap is always flooded with petrol. forgot to tell you, the bolt you tighten with the nozzle in, if you use this transparent malossi sump, then ONLY tighten the bolt as much as you can with your fingers, don't use tools, if you tighten it too hard, you will twist the sump very little but still enough for your floats to get stuck all this is something i learned from others when i was new in the profession..... It's not because I want to make myself smarter than you or sound like I know everything because I definitely don't. But I myself have experienced the errors you experience up to several times. it is only for this reason that I tell you what it might be in the way The last minutes in the video, it sounds like you have an electrical problem and my idea of what it could be is 2 things. Number 1: Are you sure that your Cable, which is supposed to give Minus to the engine, is 100% in order, because as soon as you can hear the engine working properly, your problems start to sound as if it goes beyond the spark plug ignition timing punt. Number 2: Are you sure your ignition lights up correctly at the top of the gas, I think it should give less ignition at Full RPM and more ignition at low RPM.. is your ignition Electronicist

[@49ccscoot]

I thought about converting to the more traditional float style recently, but this works... sorta. No issues with fuel to the outlet. It's a 2.5 gallon tank that's at least 1/2 full most of the time and the fitting is bottom center. It would have to slam all of the fuel back so it's sitting centered on the rear half. That's not happening. Timing should be good. I have posted MVT advance curves before.

[@mr.superduke]

remove iridium, i had same issues with iridium

[@49ccscoot]

I was thinking about trying the NGK racing plugs like the TPR used. Gotta see if I can find the heat range info for Denso to see what Malossi wanted in there.

[@mr.superduke]

@@49ccscoot you will see insane difference! I dont know why malossi suggest iridium though, theres no point!

[@VdubSPAZ]

Just remember; a smaller carb = quicker throttle response and lower RPM acceleration. A bigger carb means nothing more than better TOP-END acceleration. On a carb that is too big, everything below that peak operating RPM WILL suffer, meaning; your so called "Jack Rabbit" starts will be more like slow turtle starts.

[@49ccscoot]

This is basically what I tell people and still many think I "need" a gigantic carb. That said, I ride with Ryan that has a 34mm PWK on his and it runs well and seems to have good throttle response. I'll probably wind up trying one sooner or later. He's even offered to let me borrow his long enough to compare.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

500 miles then it won't be long before your gearing system breaks down because you put a bearing in a place that shouldn't be bearing...

[@49ccscoot]

It'll be fine. I've changed the gear oil and made a magnetic drain plug and nothing alarming is happening. Even if something does break, with the way I ride it... it should.

[@stiki108]

Technically you're quite well prepared. You know the two strokes quite well and you have all the tools to work on them. But this bike seems weak as hell. I'm racing against RC engine-fitted Piaggios and Yamahas and they're like whenever you give full throttle the front wheel leaves the asphalt. At 60kph and at 120kph as well. Doesn't matter. And they can produce ~160-170kph (100-105mph) top speed. Now it seems your bike is around 20-22hp on the wheel. Just to understand what I'm talking about: a 70cc very good rider has built an RC engine to another rider and set the bike on track. After 8-10 laps gave back to bike to the owner cause it was unrideably strong and he was slower with it than with the 70cc bike. The 94cc engine has so much torque you have to be careful how to ride it. After all it's funny in the States you play with strong scooters beside the old V8 muscle cars :)

[@49ccscoot]

I'm going to guess that most of these riders aren't 300 pounds like me. Put a 300lb rider on one and show me GPS verified in opposite directions of travel 100MPH... unported cylinder, carb and pipe that came with the RC1. I'd love to see pure power wheelies from 75MPH with any rider. Better still, do that with a long frame and 13" wheels. No pulling on the bars or BS. I mean no offense, but those are huge claims that I don't see other people backing up with proof. I'm a KZbinr, so people talk crap to me every day about how slow I am and how fast they are and I'm not sure that anyone has ever proved anything in more than a decade of this so it's safe to say I'm skeptical of seemingly outrageous claims. About the muscle cars; I had a 1990 Mustang with an aftermarket block, bored, stroked, and so on with a turbo and I got rid of it after realizing I had as much or more fun with my scooters for much less money. I love horsepower of all types, but two-strokes are just awesome IMO. Most others in the US do not share that opinion and think scooters are nothing more than cheap transport or something that people ride because they got a DUI and two-strokes are for chainsaws and string trimmers and mostly annoying.

[@stiki108]

@@49ccscoot I mean of course I followed you because the content, the knowledge and the bike is very good. And you're right, the heaviest riders I know are around 220-250lbs (100-120kg). This engine with unported cylinder produces around 26-28hp above this they're all tuned but it's necessary for good lap time only which isn't you're purpose that's clean. I just wanted to point at the "problem" I always see that more and more hp the bikes have without real reason and your engine could produce "all" of the scooter hp's but it seems it doesn't. You can find gps speed results in Polini and Malossi cups in Italy. FYI the Malossi engines have one huge technical issue: the seeger on the clutch shaft is bad and the shaft can fall into the gearbox. It's the mistake of the seeger-groove. Easy to solve but needs to be handled.

[@49ccscoot]

@@stiki108 This stuff gets weird to me. There are people in the US showing 30-35HP on a "stock" RC-One at the wheel. That seems wrong since pro-ported Malossi 94cc kits with different pipes are usually closer to that range. Then there are claims like yours that mine is about 20HP, which is where I'd expect my TPR 86cc to be and that's not strong like this. I have videos of it keeping up with a sportbike off the line and beating Harleys up to around 50MPH with my big butt on it. It can't be all that slow. Whatever the case may be, I enjoy it. If something is way off, it's some trick that I'm unaware of or spec that I haven't checked. I've heard that they run stronger with the Malossi ignition, but a few degrees of advance in the peak range shouldn't transform it to a monster. I plan to try advancing my MVT one day, but it may not take it since I have a lot more advance at lower RPM with the MVT curve. Are people cutting the groove deeper or wider or is there a different clip that's used or a different shaft? What's the fix for the clutch shaft? ...And please don't think my comments are disrespectful. I very much know that I don't know it all, but most people that comment don't back up claims or just know something is possible but not how... or sometimes seem to live in a dream world where stock scooters go 70MPH uphill. The pro racers and tuners don't generally like to share that much info, so we're left trying to figure it out on our own.

[@stiki108]

@@49ccscoot My experience: a tuned RC engine-fitted Jog RR race bike was slightly slower at race start than a sharp 70cc Zip SP which means the bike was around 24-25HP on wheel - which is very low power, because my 70cc Team2 produces around 22-23hp on wheel without any porting stuff, it's fully stock. Bigbore engines produce between 25-30Hp in our championship depending on the brand, the tuner and the settings of the bike but I'd say the bikes are far from their strongest condition. Other hand I saw a very good tuner's dyno measurement with 32HP on wheel about his own fully tuned RC and it was powerful AF. In italy the factory 2fast bike produces ~35-36HP on wheel but it's factory stuff. As far as I see these engines are very sensitive to squish, engine temp and precise carb jetting. You can loose plenty of power outside of the optimal intervals. But if you use the bike with cold engine, the piston will wear quite fast. Clutch shaft: yeah both ideas are good. Bigger clip works can be enough but a bit more regular solution is a deeper groove and bigger clip together.

[@49ccscoot]

@@stiki108 Thanks for the info.

[@superspecialty5169]

Lots of KZbin fluff in explaining your experiences… time to unsubscribe because I am believe in staying stock… as I am in an urban setting and not a rural setting.

[@49ccscoot]

Sorry to see you go. It's a niche market and I don't expect to please everyone.

[@Markko1986]

😂😂😂😂😂😂 why did you even subscribe? This channel was about tuning from the beggining.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

I yourse a Fuel hose …. It is 8mm inside hver the fuel coms , and 13mm outside … And that help me , when i have this problem you have.

[@bp-tuningaeroxlc-dd6474]

The carburettor you use from Delorto of VHST 28mm, it is a good carburettor, but I am of the opinion that it is not optimal for Malossi Motor, if I were you and you really want to get the full performance out of your Malossi motor, then If I were you, I would with 100% certainty have chosen a different type and size of Kaburator, I would without a doubt have used a Polini PWK 32mm. It is a little bit shorter than the VHST model, and then it is made for 90cc and up ... a 28mm is mostly only used for Hyper racing 70-77cc and your setup is almost 30cc sturgeons, and that will approximately amount to a size of 4mm more than 28mm VHST version. "My Own Opinions" I think only malossi use the delorto version 28mm VHST because it is only just big enough to not destroy the engine and then they wouldn't have to find a new model. But if malossi chose to find another type of carburettor for their 94cc engine, they would have chosen a PWKk 32mm, because it will give full performance of the engine and the bottom pan itself does not touch the rear fender either.

[@destroiedworld8739]

This cylinder can take 86 mph easely with me weighing 115kg. Something in the preparation is wrong. In my opinion transmission calibration and carburetion.

[@bravo1412]

93 oktan?? is that right? moment! OK ich checkt it! in EU we Masseure Oktan only by ROZ in the USA ROZ+MOZ so 93 Oktan is USA is 98 In europe. BUT we have 102+ Oktan in th eu. Thats 97oktan in the USA. the lowes shit in eu you can buy is 95oktan/90 oktan usa..This exlains a lot to me now!! in a 70cc setup tuned to the knocking point end exhaust temp the lose around 2-4HP between 98 and 102 Oktan/93and 97 oktan USA. thats 4-6° more ignition by same compression! the eu benzin is like race fuel to the USA benzin. i didnt know that!!!! Sorry to SAY but the USW gas its like the RUSSEN shit. i know that. some russen 10 15 years ago go to germany to tune ther cars. We put 102oktan in und tunes the car to the max. Example golf 7 clubsport 265hp standart with chiptuning 320-330hp @ 102 oktan in russia the ssame car on a dyno makes only 285-290 hp at 98 oktan at 95 oktan the car maks less than 265hp! VW says the GOLF 7 GTI CLUBSPORT 2.0L TSI 265PS need 98 oktan to do the power. if you have to drive with lower quality gas the enginen lose power.by sensing kocking and exhaust temp. Now i understand. the tpr86 with 102 oktan a pot thats revs 12500--13000 makes with a 24-28mm carb makes port mached 22-25hp eazsy!!! with 98 it´s 18-21hp

[@bravo1412]

i forgot to say polini malossi etc youse 102 for there design test am qm tests.

[@49ccscoot]

91-93 (RON+MON)/2 is what I typically get. I can get 94 at some stations, but there's really no point. I used to be able to drive about 30-45 minutes each way and get Sunoco GT100 from a pump, but that's gone now. The only option for more octane would be booster or race fuel/aero fuel. Otherwise E85, but that's ever farther away for me. A friend is considering it, but he's less concerned with regular use and longer street rides and lives closer to sources of E85. It's probably 3 hours for me to get it so I would need to store a lot to make it anywhere near practical and that seems like a bad idea with such high ethanol content. 9% potential gain (Frits info) sounds good, but I don't think it's worth it for me.