Re-engineering suspension and steering. Handles SO GOOD now. Beretta

My original redneck engineering when building this car was mostly pretty good, but I'm making a few improvements. It's good practice in problem solving...
I upgraded to poly bushings at the rear control arms, torque arm and front sway bar links, and added braces to the engine mounts. Empire Metal Works lasered the brackets. I also bought offset heims from Kryptonite for my steering and cut & rewelded the front control arms for 2* more caster and more steering clearance at the tie rods. Turning radius is way better now and it hugs the corners nice with the sway bars dialed in.
Buy a $5 flush cutters for your zip ties! amzn.to/3UV1wWV
And buy a GEARHEAD shirt...
gearheaddezign....
/ @gearheaddezign
/ gearheaddezign
/ gearheaddezign

[@Shiftyspeedshop]

This is awesome! I subscribed.

[@LynnTwinCustoms513]

Good upgrades!

[@GEARHEADdezign]

Couple things that didn't work out perfect the first time around, or just didn't hold up for long. Best way to test it is to drive it!

[@RodknockRhett]

@@GEARHEADdezignThat’s how my Bravada will be.

[@RodknockRhett]

I swear the GMT800 fuse block is designed to be swapped into stuff.

[@GEARHEADdezign]

I read that the c2 truck connector plugs right into s10 fuse block too...

[@mightymikethebear]

cool

[@donlapierre8145]

Awesome! Have you checked the size of a 2wd s10 sway bar? It looks like it's about the same as that one just skinnier

[@GEARHEADdezign]

I haven't, but I want to keep an aggressive rate. The long arms already reduce stiffness, so it's gotta be pretty thick to be effective.

[@GEARHEADdezign]

I might do a "circle track" bar that rotates inside a bearing and the arms clamp on splines. That way I can run it directly through the front subframe and not lose ground clearance.