Re-jointing a patio

A simple guide to the easiest method of replacing failed pointing on a patio or driveway using basic tools and a resin mortar. Fast, simple and clean!

[@rossgill5171]

Nice, quick, simple and clear video! Thanks for sharing!

[@geraldpower1]

Cheers mate, job done!

[@robtudor3785]

The grinder makes so much mess! Took me 3x as long clearing it up. Changed to a Titan hammer drill with point chisel. Much quicker getting old mortar out and cleaning up before the epoxy resin was added.

[@TonyMcCormack]

Point taken! S+C is definitely cheaper and easier to find at your local Builders' Merchant, but it doesn't half make your back ache! :~)

[@theCybershot123]

Wow never seen it done that way before impressive

[@endo9913]

Hello, Tony, would the use of Epoxy Paving Joint work well with concrete slabs which have a riven surface? I could just imagine the squeegee not spreading so well and more wastage? Great to see you still going strong! I read your old web site and resources from start to finish before building my first patio in 2002. This is the one I now need to re-point and have been dreading it!

[@TheNakedQuack]

Good tutorial! PLEASE tell me the name of this awesome backing track!!

[@lewiswalker6646]

Satisfying watching pros at work

[@NigelBunt]

What rejoint mixture did you use in the machine please?

[@thomasbroleen4241]

P.s. the porcelain slabs are anti slip, i.e. not smooth/gloss, more of a honed finish. Thanks.

[@TonyMcCormack]

And how long does that take you? Even for an experienced paving contractor, hand pointing takes at least four times as long as a non-staining slurry. The whole point of this technique is that is very quick and virtually impossible to cause staining

[@TonyMcCormack]

@Open Paranormal O can only comment on that particulat job which was re-pointed in 2011 and the clients still seem satisfied with the results!

[@pup1008]

Hi Tony & thanks for the upload! Could you tell me what "resin mortar" is where you get it & in what quantities I would need to mix it? Is it the same as just putting a plasticiser into a mortar mix?I have looked on line but only seem to be able to find a ready mixed powdered version in tubs?Thanks for any help.

[@TonyMcCormack]

+Deep Heat See feature on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/point_ncc04.htm

[@pup1008]

+Tony McCormack Many thanks Tony

[@aaronhounsome8954]

Tony what was the stuff you were using at the end to fill in joints and is it expensive?

[@mattseymour8637]

Can you use a diamond blade to remove the old mortor?

[@TonyMcCormack]

Yes, but be careful not to cut into or damage the edges of the paving. Mortar-raking blades are by far the better option.

[@azadchoudhry2466]

Nice job. Do you live in Lancashire area? Just curious! May need your help.

[@richwallwin]

Does this work on porcelain pavers with a anti slip surface? Wouldn’t it fill all the tiny little holes that make up the surface and render the the anti slip surface moot?

[@TonyMcCormack]

I wouldn't know which porcelain products you refer to, so probably best to check with the manufacturer. I'm not aware of "tiny little holes" being an anti-slip treatement for porcelain paving. However, I do know that the jointing material used in this case study is perfectly suitable for use with porcelain.

[@mobilesnapper79]

just removed all mine with a sds drill. need to re mortar this. is this just a cement mix?

[@TonyMcCormack]

No. As the video says, it's a two part resin mortar.

[@thomasbroleen4241]

Hello Tony, not sure if you're still seeing these comments but can you recommend what GftK product to use on 20mm thick porcelain slabs, joint widths are between 5mm (smallest) up to the odd 8mm joint. We had a brand new 80sq M patio layed 2 years ago and the contractor use Easy Joint and I have had to rack it all out myself as it was terrible stuff. What's the difference between GftK products and UltraScape Flow point. Hope you can get back to me. Thanks, Adam B.

[@TonyMcCormack]

GftK mortars are resin based whereas Ultrascape is cement based. The GftK 815 is good with porcelain, as it has a finer aggregate for narrow joints. It's permeable, so you may have to treat it for mosses/algae/etc every now and again. The cement-based products are usually cheaper but take longer to clean off. As a rough guide, I'd suggest resin mortars are better for DIYers with a more-relaxed budget, whereas cement mortars are often better in the hands of paving professionals and/or those on a tighter budget.

[@thomasbroleen4241]

@@TonyMcCormack thank for the info, in your honest opinion before I commit to £ 300 worth of 815vdw how would it compare in durability and toughness to BAL micromax2 exterior tile grout as that's my other option, I don't want to be going through this again in 2 years time like I've had to with Easy Joint, the only 'Easy' thing about was it's ability to come out of the joints. Apologies for the long winded messages.

[@TonyMcCormack]

@@thomasbroleen4241 If you feel confident with the tile grout, that's probably the (slightly) better option, though there's not much in it.

[@ouruhuru]

Does anyone know if this method would also work on patio tiles?

[@jenniecaldwell1925]

I have red brick pavers on the ground that match my house. The pavers have little holes, etc in them. Won't this mix get in the grooves of the brick and have to be scraped after it is poured on top of the pavers

[@TonyMcCormack]

No, it will just wash off and then you can brush the surface clean before the resin hardens

[@garryburns0178]

Hello. I have had shoddy pavers in and a majority of the stones are loose. The jointing is raising all over. I am unhappy. Is there a flexible jointing I can replace rather than lift the whole lot and do it again? If I call them back I may be leaving one or two below

[@TonyMcCormack]

You can't rely on the jointing to secure loose flagstones. That's not how flagstone paving works. See this FAQ on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/faq_fix_loose_flags

[@Stormf0rce999]

first thing to do is to put both hands on the grinder!

[@r16fer59]

Spot on. Someone will have his fingers off copying this.

[@MistAtsiM]

Only good for smooth stone... But good

[@mdncthetruth2556]

Hi pal, been doing some research or re point paving jointing, quick question, the resin mortar you use is pretty dear compared to others, do all resin mortar do the same thing what you've basically shown step by step or will they all differ brand to brand?

[@TonyMcCormack]

Not at all! It does seem to be very much a case of 'you get what you pay for', and there is a league of difference between the truly excellent 2-part mortars and the simple brush-n-fill one-part cheapies.I would only consider using a top-quality 2-part on my own work.

[@mdncthetruth2556]

@@TonyMcCormack Alright, also how many squared meters does one tub of the stuff cover?

[@TonyMcCormack]

@@mdncthetruth2556 That very much depends on what is being jointed (flags, setts, pavers?), with what joint width and what depth. The type of flags shown in this video average around 15m² per pail (25kg)

[@mdncthetruth2556]

@@TonyMcCormack thank you very much sir 👍🏻

[@mdncthetruth2556]

@@TonyMcCormack another question Tony, if on a vertical victoriana red bricked wall the gaps are too small, how would one repoint this?

[@desperatedan1408]

Tony, I want to use vdw850 to repoint just certain areas of my Indian sandstone paving (most of it’s fine even after 20 years!). Can I use the slurry method piecemeal and just pour bits of it where I need it? I appreciate that slurry is more suited to doing the whole lot but if it ain’t broken I’m reluctant to fix it. I’m a complete novice but can’t afford to pay a professional …

[@TonyMcCormack]

In such situaions we'd make up a bucke tof the 850+ mortar and then individually point the smaller gaps, much as would happen when using a traditional sand+cement mortar. The joints need to be clean and at least 20-25mm deep. Slurries work best on larger areas, but for small bits and pieces, fill them individually and clean off each one as soon as the joint is filled.

[@desperatedan1408]

@@TonyMcCormack Thanks Tony, I guess I’ll have to pour the mix carefully in the spots to be repointed as there’s some distance between them. Some of the joints are deeper than 25mm (more like 50mm) so what filling material should I use to bring them up to 25mm and bond with the mix? Am thinking of grit or small stone chips.

[@TonyMcCormack]

@@desperatedan1408 25mm is a *minimum* depth - you can go to 50mm no problem and it will be more secure than partially filling with gravel. Just be sure to wash off *immediately* after filling - it helps ensure the mortar is fully settled in the joint and it rinses away any excess resin.

[@desperatedan1408]

@@TonyMcCormack Many thanks Tony - brilliant videos and advice on top!

[@ArturoMartinez-yt8jq]

Hey those joint were poured not so long ago ...

[@michaelbrough9786]

We have a chinese slate patio - will pouring the mix fill the gaps in the slate as well as the areas you wish to fill - or is there another technique you would suggest?

[@TonyMcCormack]

Michael Brough Not sure what you mean by "gaps in the slate". The pointing mix will fill the joints *between* the individual slates or between slates and, say, a wall or other edging, but what other gaps could there be?

[@mjlives5428]

Hi Tony...I almost had a heart attack when I saw you pour the "cement" than saw it was a non stain resin.I am in Canada...I wonder where I would get that.I usually grind..sweep and than point using type S cement and bonding glue but find it cracks,especially with our winters here.I am trying to solve this issue.This looks quicker....any problem with cracking?What is your solution so the joints don't crack?TY

[@TonyMcCormack]

The 2-part resin mortars tend to have a relatively high elastic modulus, so they can move (up to a point) if the paving moves. Even so, we very, very rarely get frost heave problems in Lower Britain or Ireland - just the far north of Scotland, really - so it's hardly ever an issue. I'm not sure about availability in Canada. I do consultancy work for the German manufacturers (and they *do* get frost heave in Germany!) and the British/Irish distributors....I'll ask and let you know.....

[@mjlives5428]

Tony McCormack Thanks for taking the time to reply.Yes the elasticity would definitely help.

[@sushimeaningful]

Could anyone enlighten me? I thought wet cement would stain the stones. The guy in the video didnt use anything the press the cement down into the gaps, and I thought it was best not to use cement so wet??? My patio pointing keeps cracking.. First I tried a mix of 3 sand 1 cement, then 2 sand 1 cement and taking care not to do it in hot sunshine. Should i try a dry mix, if so should I spray water on it after or just leave it? Thank You

[@bonanzatime]

sushimeaningful If there is any dust or grit whatsoever left in the joints after grinding out old joints the new joints will not bind to the flagstone or brick pavers; and it will crack. Sweeping with a broom and hosing down with a garden hose (like in this video) Is Not Adequate Enough To Getting Rid Of The Dust And Grit. It Will Not Work. ... And It Will Have To Be Done Again By Somebody Who Knows Better.

[@Thor_Underdunk_Caballerial]

What process IS adequate?

[@TonyMcCormack]

It's not cement. That's the whole point - it's a RESIN mortar. Read more on the website,,,,

[@pj8323]

Which website is it?

[@stevo728822]

Simple answer is you don't need to put anything between the patio slabs cracks. Just covering up the patio slabs from the sun for a few weeks will remove all plant life and keep it looking fresh.

[@cliffcarlo180]

And don't forget all you budding DIYers, make sure your extension reel is right behind you. Works better when it's covered in shit, mortar dust and dirt.

[@azza1793]

Lmao rake out the old mortar THEN sweep the debris back over the joints that you have just removed it from 👍

[@TonyMcCormack]

Please enlighten us: how would *you* do it?

[@thomasgrepne5638]

Leaf blower is very effective!

[@adamturner2836]

@@TonyMcCormack hose pipe and blast the joints out. Not rocket science. I'm currently doing this job and my prep is better and I'm sure you've done it way more times. Take pride 👍

[@thanxx]

@@thomasgrepne5638 blow it all over the garden and into elsies lungs next door..... like a pro

[@thomasgrepne5638]

@@thanxx wet it first if your worry about dust dummy

[@rosscoats9261]

Do NOT , I repeat do NOT hold a grinder like this folks, unbelievable uploading a video with the incorrect handling of a grinding tool. Novices could be watching this and follow suit.