Realistic Surfing POV in Messy Waves (Intermediate Surfer POV)

Waves were pretty messy but we are getting out no matter the conditions!
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Picture-perfect waves, ridden by absolute shredders are everywhere these days. Now let’s be real, most of us did not grow up surfing and do not live in Hawaï. This channel is about sharing what surfing is really like for the average person.
I started surfing at 25 and live in France, so my reality involves a lot of subpar conditions, cold water and sometimes, when the stars align, some epic waves. But be it small, choppy or pumping, I don’t care. As long as I can drop in and do a turn, I am out there!
Shot on the DJI Osmo Action 4, 2.7K (4:3) at 60FPS, with RockSteady.
Board : Olaïan Shortboard 900, 5'10", 30L.
Location : South West France

[@helnorse]

these are NOT MESSY waves!!!

[@maximebesson]

Aha no wind chop I’ll give you that but kind of all over the place that day 🤙

[@helnorse]

@@maximebesson you are truly invited to surf the northsea with me in autum...then you will know what I mean with messy...

[@SchmozzleGTO]

Theyre deffo 'messy' but I LOVE THESE DAYS.... waves come to you, no set peak, loads of folk chuck it off so rarely as crowded... some of my favourite sessions have been like this... although head high plus n blown out is even better... head high++ thins the crowd big time and is sooo choice, esp when outside lumps make it to our sand bar/beach n jack up WOOOP

[@maximebesson]

@@helnorse a quick Google search was enough, that looks really messy aha

[@maximebesson]

@@SchmozzleGTO So true! Days like these are so unpredictable, you might get a ton of waves or no waves at all, it’s what makes them so special! 🤙