Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement Subaru Impreza 2012-Present

[@jayman6677]

Nothing dramatically different from any other brake job ... Thanks for posting this video I was hoping for no surprises 😊

[@kidcryptic8193]

could you please put a description for the tools used for the job, I needed to know the size of the bolts used to take the rotors off, thank you

[@macduff1956]

Always put anti seize grease around the bolts before intalling the new rotor.

[@pitufo0gomez607]

What bolts ?

[@macduff1956]

@@pitufo0gomez607 Around the bolts before pushing the rotor back. The 5 big bolts that hold the wheel.

[@felixpaquette2397]

Where do we find the two little screw to remove the rotor?

[@FukU2222]

any hardware store - M8x1.25

[@mwood8559]

thanks for the tutorial. I have to do this brake job soon. btw, are you supposed to put brake grease on the ends of the brake pads, metal clip area???

[@2carpros]

I really don't like putting grease in that area due to the chance of grease seeping around on to the brake surface. Grease and braking surfaced are really bad. Thanks for watching!

[@burns1210]

M Wood I always grease anywhere contact is made, except the pad surface on the rotor of course.

[@robcon4913]

No it's not necessary

[@letsRegulateSociopaths]

great vid. Best one I found.

[@2carpros]

Wow, thanks!

[@Forward_Unto_Dawn]

Do you have to replace the brake pad sensors when replacing the pads and rotors?

[@Nisrochs-Handbag]

Caliper torque bolt spec to 20ftlbs and bracket torque bolt spec to 89ftlbs...

[@FoggyLongShadow]

No way

[@thintz]

These specs are wrong, do not use them.

[@MikeH_41-33_LII]

No torque settings on the caliper brackets?

[@2carpros]

19.9 ft-lbs But just on reasonably tight is fine.

[@imranshah-ll1wk]

I liked how you bleeded out valve by pressing cliper

[@jessepowers1552]

There’s an easier tool to take the rotor off, it’s called a BFH.

[@felixpaquette2397]

What is that?

[@CommodoreBlubbers]

@@felixpaquette2397 big freekin hammer

[@felixpaquette2397]

@@CommodoreBlubbers won't it damage the e brake

[@macduff1956]

After pumping the brake pedal you must top up the brake fluid in the master cylinder....

[@felixpaquette2397]

What top up means?

[@macduff1956]

@@felixpaquette2397 fill completly.....to the rim...

[@Justin-lk7lr]

Thanks for your video!

[@2carpros]

My pleasure!

[@drteknical6571]

What is the size of the two bolts you use to push the rotor off of the hub? I'm sure that they are a metric, but which? Thanks!

[@acalltoarms1087]

I know OP didn't answer your question here, but did you ever get an answer? I have the exact same question!

[@ryanwilliams8820]

If you need one of those bolts and don't have one handy, undo the 12mm bolt that is holding the brake cable in place. Works perfect and just alternate it back and forth in each hole until the rotor comes off. Cheers!

[@bloodfromastone]

@@ryanwilliams8820 this works amazing for me thank you dude!!

[@diggdogg5378]

@@ryanwilliams8820 epic thought Ryan

[@mtfan]

DrTeknical most cars nowadays use the same bolts that hold the caliper in place to push the rotor off.

[@earvinbalanquit3849]

What are the sizes of two bolts that you used for taking the rotor out?

[@macduff1956]

Normally you can use the caliper bolts.

[@AlexK-uh5my]

10mm

[@elliotg.6597]

Careful not to over do it.... I just used the caliper bolts and destroyed the threading.... currently out to find replacement bolts. Wondering if I can just use any similar 10mm bolt

[@saintdismas]

No idea where you got the two bolts for the rotor. And I'd have appreciated hearing what lubes and sprays you were using. The spray appears to be carb cleaner.

[@2carpros]

I just had M8x1.25 bolts laying around. I think that's what they are. The lube is just synthetic grease, available anywhere. And the spray is carb cleaner. Thanks for watching!

[@macduff1956]

Brake spray cleaner is made specially for that !

[@Syzygizing]

The bolts are the ones that attach the caliper to the bracket screw both of them in than take a mallet and lightly tap from the back

[@imperfect_Visions]

Do you need to use the screws to remove the rotor? If so what size are they?

[@2carpros]

Yes. I don't know off hand.

[@krisc1994]

Do you need those bolts to take off the rotor, or is that just so that way it's easier to take off the rotor in case it's stuck in there?

[@joefinney8431]

Mmmmhmmm yes

[@gerryscat]

It makes it easy the bolts are M8 1.25

[@locker1325]

What is that funny clip on the brake pad. Some kits have that clip on all the pads while other don't. My pads have that clip on all the pads plus mine had a extra arm or tab. Not sure what they are for. You pointed to the clip but didn't make any commentary about it.

[@Sinn3246]

Isn't there something you have to do with the E-Brake before removing the rear rotor?

[@roydean1111]

Yes, is there a "star wheel" to dial back the parking brake shoes? If there is a "ledge" worn into the "drum-in-hat", you could damage the parking brake shoes by yanking the rotor off before retracting the parking brake shoes. I'll check other sources before proceeding.

[@williamlit8743]

Can you push the piston back without releasing the bleeder screw?

[@LittleChip91]

People do all the time but I wouldn't recommend it.

[@saintdismas]

Why do you not recommend it?

[@burns1210]

William Lit I never have in 25 years of doing my own brakes

[@DangerFloof191]

I just open the cap on the reservoir before I press the piston back in.

[@macduff1956]

@@DangerFloof191 if the master cylinder reservoir is full, I remove some brake fluid before pushing the piston in.....

[@sandyshoremann7524]

A little dirty on the slide -pin lube section. Cleanliness is important here. Work off a clean piece of newspaper if the bench is dirty. Also new shims are recommended. And before they go on, a thorough wire brushing and scraping of the forged bracket is needed where the brake ears are captured to insure free motion and return.

[@macduff1956]

When you removed the old rotor, the rubber plug was à 11h 00 and when you pushed the new rotor it was at 3 h 00 !!!

[@sandyshoremann7524]

Also the old Rotors looked FINE. In fact pads looked only 1/2 worn. NO job needed. Rotors are not throw-a-way but dealers treat them as such. That's why the $280 bucks an axle charge at the Dealer Service Centre. It's but a 30 dollar job - with your sweat equity - to R&R pads. About as tough as an oil change. Get Crackin.

[@abe3123]

Is it required to open the bleeder valve to push the piston back in?

[@dzfromtheburgh5725]

abe xd just take the cap off your master cylinder. Easier than having to go through bleeding the brakes if you get air in the line

[@cameronlafond820]

Does this apply to the wrx as well?

[@2carpros]

It may look a tiny bit different but the process is exactly the same.

[@cameronlafond820]

2CarPros okay thanks for the reply.

[@2carpros]

Thank you so much for watching!

[@FukU2222]

the only real different subaru brake service is the brembos on the STI - and even still, it's basically the same, just different style of component(s)

[@daveedbartholomew-price696]

This video would have been much better adding sizes of wrenches needed

[@mw2300]

Why does this type of car need to have the rotors replaced along with the break pads? Why was it designed to replace both at the same time, not just the brake pads?

[@2carpros]

Because rotors have gotten so cheap you really should just replace them with the pads. Thanks for watching!

[@Silojohnson]

I’m the north don’t touch that bleeder screw.

[@john.dlugos4580]

Why take the whole caliper apart? Just take it off in one piece.

[@pitufo0gomez607]

And how tf u going to replace the pads? I wanna hear this 😂

[@juliocaceres8408]

Good video, I just hate the music, it’s so annoying

[@robertomarti7392]

.