Rear Hatch Wiring Repair (3rd Gen 4runner)

[@monkeyspank2270]

Another great video Mr. Toolman. For those who might not have been counting. Timmy said Butt connector 26 times, and Butt splicing 6 times. Timmy said butt.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I reckon I like saying Butt, I reckon.

[@monkeyspank2270]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks again for the great content.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@monkeyspank2270 You're welcome.

[@wcsoblake85]

I love that KZbin certified mechanic banner in your shop!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I thought it was a pretty funny banner to have in my garage. There's actually some people who think this is a real thing which makes it even funnier. Here's a link to the banner I bought via Amazon: amzn.to/3hPrkyb

[@jaytrolan1602]

Timmy The Toolman Love your videos and your concise “no fat” editing, making it very easy to stay engaged along with your top notch links making it so easy to order the very tools needed to do the job properly. 😊

[@timmacrobert11]

Thanks for another healthy sicmod repair.This is also extremely useful to anyone adding a backup camera who needs to access the wiring boot to feed their RCA plugs to the camera. If you are adding a backup camera check for cracked and damaged wires in the boot area and repair before pulling the cables (lube with dielectric grease) through the disassembled boot and Robert is your mother’s sister’s brother!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@colby2150]

One tip I found when applying heat to wires for heat shrinking, soldering, etc.. it’s to wrap the other wires in aluminum foil in order to deflect some of the heat. Hopes this helps someone

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This is an excellent idea. Thanks for sharing this. It's such a simple and brilliant way to avoid affecting a wire you don't want to damage. I will use this.

[@threestarsandasling]

this is the repair I've been waiting for!! my rear window magically goes down by itself. lol. so i disengaged it until i saw a tutorial on it. Thanks Tim and Sean, you're both heaven sent!!👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good luck with the repair Carlo. Hopefully it's a simple wiring issue you can fix.

[@whocares4464]

Carlo my 99 4runner does the same thing time to time. When I shut off the vehicle my rear window will roll all they way down by itself.

[@phillipblount5541]

How did you disengage it? Would like to know, as I just want to leave it up, and not worry with it any more. Mine goes down by itself overnight, usually when it rains.

[@8953147]

I did that exact job on my 2000 4Runner for the same reason! Great detail and awesome tools brother Tim! The key to your success was the staggering of the splices. It's a requirement in aviation to stagger splices for safety, to ensure the bundle doesn't grow or interfere with other wires, and you did it right brother Tim!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jake. For this job, I was going to try out some solder shrink butt connectors but they didn't arrive in time for the day we were planning on filming. I've heard the solder connectors will take up a little less space and that's why I wanted to use them.

[@8953147]

@@TimmyTheToolman those solder splices are simple

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@8953147 I'll try them out the next time I need to do some wiring.

[@8953147]

@@TimmyTheToolman Got this from Scanner Danner: Sopoby or Kuject butt connectors with self-sealing properties. Has solder inside, just heat and shrinks/seals electrical wiring repairs.

[@8953147]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYWvnnuwoMSMapI

[@Patrick.Weightman]

At nearly 300k I've been keeping an eye on mine - was actually gonna take a look at it soon cause my rear defroster is pretty meh. Suspect this will come in handy one day. Thanks Tim and Sean

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome.

[@roscobosco8526]

I have a parasitic draw that led me to this repair. My battery was drawing 200 milliamps when nothing is on. I started pulling fuses and it was the dome circuit that made a difference. There was a couple clues that led me to this video. One the rear dome light was not coming on when set to door and when the door was open. Two sometime I could not get the rear hatch to unlock. I hooked up the multimeter and opened and closed the rear hatch and the parasitic draw dropped to 20 milliamps. Below 50 milliamps is acceptable. I peeled away the robber protection for the rear latch and several of the wires are exposed and one is broken. I will use this repair. Thanks Tim for making this! I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job figuring out the issue. I'm happy to hear our video is helping you out. You're very welcome and good luck with the wire repair.

[@ronaldfines2738]

First of all, GREAT video, Timmy! I have a 2000 4Runner SR5 and I just finished this repair today; 5 of my wires were damaged and repaired. The reason I had to do this was because I kept blowing my stop (break Light) fuse and the vehicle would get stuck in park. I went to the junk yard (first time ever, as I am not even close to being a mechanic) and pulled and old wiring harness from a 1998 Runner. The wires were not exactly the same color, so I figured that I best strip the ends and count the copper strands to be sure that I was matching up the correct gauge. This got me to thinking that if you couldn't find a harness from a Runner at the yard, you might be able to pull one from any SUV with a rear hatch that opens upwards and use this method to ensure that you are using the correct gauge of wire for the repairs. Just a thought... Costs: $17 Heat Gun (Harbor Freight) $4 A set of heat-shrink splicers {3 different sizes Red-Blue-Yellow} {Harbor Freight) $9 Wire Harness from the Junk Yard $2 Electrical Tape (Ace Hardware) $32 Total -Ronnie

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good job fixing the wires. As for the wire gauges, you can figure it out from the wire strippers you use and the buy the appropriate gauge wire at Home Depot or an auto parts store.

[@RotoRCol]

regards from Bogota Colombia Timmy nice to see you back here

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Back at ya my Colombian Brother.

[@titanjake8640]

This repair is spot on. I found a wrecked on and I cut it long enough and just heat shrunk all the wires up where I cut.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Jake.

[@jambam6176]

GREAT VIDEO!...... I just finished doing this to my 2002 4Runner. I soldered the wires and used hi - low temperature black electrical tape. *Everything works now!!! ;-)*

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sicmods JAM! Thanks for taking the time to comment on our video.

[@johnaustin2276]

I swapped out my rear hatch with a junkyard one and was told that the wiring is different from 96 to 98 compared to the 99 to 02. When I did this repair I disconnected the harness from under the headliner and feed it through the hole in the body to expose the last foot of the harness and it was a bit easier to work with.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the comment John. Sean and I talked about reaching in there to disconnect it to make the butt splicing a bit easier but getting your hand in there to disconnect the connectors is a bit hard without removing the driver side cargo trim piece. So, instead of cramming my hand in there and blindly feeling for the tab to push to disconnect the connectors, I did the wiring repair without disconnecting them.

[@johnaustin2276]

@@TimmyTheToolman yes sir i did leave some skin doing it.

[@jvogler_art4708]

YOU HAVE THE BEST CHANNEL ON KZbin!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks for the very nice compliment. We appreciate it!

[@Longlinr11]

By far one of the best how too video. Very thorough. Great explanations.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Mike. We appreciate the compliment.

[@leifrudd8934]

i've got THREE leads in mine with this problem. i had been banging my head on the wall about the wiper not functioning, and here's why. thank you for this very helpful vid. i know what i'll be doing, tonight...

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome Leif. Good luck with the fix.

[@leifrudd8934]

@@TimmyTheToolman not to diminish the utility of this vid, but for my rig, it turns out that despite soldering the three broken leads and opting to solder three additional leads whose insulation had cracked, the rear wiper still doesn't work. do you happen to know which lead (by color) energizes the wiper motor? everything else appears to work -- wiper fluid, all three banks of brake lights, reverse lights, turn signals, window goes up and down, running lights. the wire colors in the FSM change seemingly each time there's a molex, and it's challenging to find what it is, right there. thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@leifrudd8934 Do your front wipers work?

[@leifrudd8934]

@@TimmyTheToolman indeed they do, and after some further investigation, it turns out that the broken leads in that doomed hatchback loom had bridged and blown the fuse. replaced the fuse and bingo. wiper works, everything works. thanks for checking back.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@leifrudd8934 That's why I asked about the front wipers because I suspected the fuse was blown. Glad you got it working.

[@sandybarrett3198]

Thanks So Much For Making This Video. Lifted the boot and 4 wires broken.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Sandy. Hope the wire repairs went smooth for you.

[@alecsavoye2698]

My situation was the same but different. I noticed that my rear wiper wasn't working while driving but would sometimes come back. Noticed that the dash wasn't showing door open when hatch was open, and the dome light would go out after 5-10 seconds ONLY when the hatch was more than ~20 degrees open.... But! my wiper worked, even in periods when all the other stuff I just mentioned wasn't. Tested some pins according to FSM (first checking the continuity to ground for "courtesy switch" aka door sensor switch...) and it turns out ONE power cable to the back hatch ECU was working (PWR, pin 1) but NOT the other ("ECU-B", pin 2)... This meant that my symptoms were super funky! It sort of worked, even when it was broken! Peeled back the harness and, sure enough, the wire for ECU-B was fully split with a few others on the way out too. This problem was greatly exacerbated when I did some crazy bushwacking up North; slammed the hatch down on some pine cones / debris in the water rail area near the harness. Hope this provides some insights into how confusing this issue can be! (Super excited to have an actually working rear defroster, if the lack of power going to it due a failed wire was the issue.)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

With the wires broken, the broken sides might have been able to intermittently touch making a connection and allowing functionality. I'd say you problem was definitely the broken wires.

[@FoodieMan802]

Great video! Just fixed my broken wires on my new to me 2001 4runner. Love it

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@FoodieMan802 Thanks, and good job fixing your wiring.

[@CalebCantrell]

You're just on top of it, thanks for putting these together.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No problem. Hope you get it fixed.

[@cheeseburger9232]

Congrats on passing 30k subs

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks. We appreciate the recognition. I think you're the first to mention this.

[@chriscollison3136]

I started using soldiering adhesive shrink tubing connectors because you get to tie the wire together then solider your tie and cut off the excess solider then slide the adhesive tubing over your tie with solider inside of it and add heat from a gun and you get it solidered again and sealed up!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, I have some of the solder connectors but I haven't used them yet. Thanks for sharing your tips.

[@robertmcclure184]

Very good video and explanations on how to stagger butt connections

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Robert.

[@livingwaterutube]

One heck of a great video! That's the source of my rear window and rear window faults. Would go down automatically when I close the back gate or lock from inside. Many thanks!!!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Keith and you're very welcome. Good luck with the wiring repair.

[@richlien5598]

Hello Tim. Very helpful video. Redid the wiring and the hatch light still doesn’t work. Which fuse can I check for the hatch light? Thanks for your help.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm not sure. It might be on the same circuit as the dome light fuse.

[@trehawke3286]

The harness connector for those wires is only about 2 inches farther back under the headliner. You can easily disconnect that and the pull the end of the harness out through the hole in the body giving you much more room to work.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to know.

[@chadmorrison_]

nice video tim. ive had a similar issue with back there except my issue was; turn headlights on, the brake lights would come on license plate lites intermittently work, and lastly when i hit the brakes my lights would turn on. multiple separated wires and repair as necessary.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I guess it's more than just a potential issue with power and function for your rear window and wiper motor with all the wiring that runs through to the hatch.

[@aeskitch]

Thanks for this video an all your other videos! What is the exact name of the wiring harness part that you pulled? Some pick an pull require an exact description and or part number. Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I don't know the name of the harness.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great informative demonstration video as always Timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Antonio.

[@Chris-kq7ko]

Awesome job Timmy. Been a minute!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Chris.

[@zanderkatrakis3991]

Great job Timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Zander

[@josejara5125]

This is also a repair for the 3rd brake light. Solved my problem

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad it helped you out Jose.

[@curtisf1276]

Going to do this next weekend. The rear defog hasn't worked in years. Hope that wire is in there too.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yea, it would have to be in there. Good luck with the repair.

[@keithstreger2757]

Great video! Fixed my 4runner! Does anyone have a diagram of what each wire does? I had a black and yellow wire severed. My rear window didn't go down so I'm assuming the black is to power that (larger gauge wire-16). What about the yellow wire?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I doubt you're going to find your answer on our channel from someone seeing your question. I would suggest buying an electrical diagram book for your year or accessing the information from the Toyota Tech Information website by buying a 2-day subscription for $25. Or, ask this same question on a Toyota forum or Toyota Facebook page.

[@PhoRunner]

thanks for the video Tim! Great video as always.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and thanks for the compliment.

[@paulfergonise8008]

Very helpful video! Thank you guys! I recently installed a backup cam and tore the rubber tube with a coat hanger while trying to feed the RCA video cable and so this helped me resolve the tear - electrical tape! 😁🤙

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad our video helped you out Paul.

[@christianbrossard9124]

Hey, thank you for the video, very useful. I was wondering what would happen if the plastic were the boot connects to the trim, brokes and the boot can’t stay in its place. Could water get in the truck? I tried to fix it but also the boot kind of broke when the lip is..

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I think water could make it's way in without the boot intact. Maybe you can visit a local PicknPull and grab one off a wrecked 3rd Gen and fix it.

[@christianbrossard9124]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you! Will take care of that

[@gman4674]

I have a 2021 Toyota 4 runner. I put a kayak in the rear compartment with the rear hatch tied down. Is there any way to disable buzzer?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'm sure there is a way, but we've never done it. Maybe someone on a Toyota forum or Facebook page could tell you how to do it.

[@mizer300]

Just found a couple wires that were cut. Could this be the reason for my third break light and license plate lights not working?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it could be the reason.

[@mizer300]

@@TimmyTheToolman wow didn’t expect a reply, especially for an older video. thanks for always helping us out! love ur videos and keep up the great work!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mizer300 We reply to most comments. You're very welcome and we do plan on making videos for a long time to come. Happy Wrenching!

[@mizer300]

@@TimmyTheToolman Just a quick update! Yes, that was the reason for why my third break light and license plate lights were out! Bought a cramping tool and butt connectors and it fixed it for me! Unfortunately, I didn’t have a heat gun so I tried with a Bic lighter (bad idea) then a cheaper lighter which helped it shrink better but overall I just put electrical tape on it as well . Thanks again Tim :)

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@mizer300 I'm glad you got it fixed.

[@AnthonyStromDesign]

Thanks Tim! My lic plate light was out even with the new bulb. I'm sure that's what it is. Thanks. Also, have you a video for r/r the ac evaporator on the 3rd gen? I have this musty smell in my cabin and I'm thinking the evaporator is full of pet hair and everything else.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome. We don't have a video for AC evaporator, but it is something we will do at some point. You might want to take the fan cover off and see if your rig has been infiltrated my rodents.

[@stevenbauer7744]

have you tried the solder seal type connectors? As these vehicles age, heat (especially where I live in Texas) and time are going to combine to make the plastic wire insulation less pliable and prone to cracking even with fewer flex cycles.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I actually bought some and was planning on trying them out for this video but they didn't arrive in time from Amazon so I chose to just use the shrink butt connectors I had available.

[@amirgarekani5352]

Very good video, thank you Timmy, On my 01 4Runner, the rear wiper works on intermittent, but when I twist the control to turn the rear washer, neither the pump or the wipers work, could that be a wiring problem too?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It could be that or a problem with the stalk on your steering column. Check the wiring and see what you see.

[@tailopez5106]

16:21 anyone know the part number for the plastic piece? I broke mine on accident and I can’t find the part number, I took it off and googled the number on it but nothing popped up.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I would just go to the dealer and see if they have it. It couldn't cost that much.

[@WeekendWrenchTurner]

Good stuff Tim👍👍 One of the things I've always wondered is the pin style for all the different connectors. I've not been able to find a source for them. I've always wanted to de-pin the connectors and then replace the entire wire in between them with new wire. Been wanting to do that for a bunch of different harnesses.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

De-pinning would be nice but more labor intensive. I've never tried to de-pin a connector but my buddy Mikey has that did the V8 swap. Maybe I'll hit him up and get some info from him.

[@WeekendWrenchTurner]

@@TimmyTheToolman that would be awesome!! Thanks Tim 👍

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Amazing job timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

thanks

[@FD-rh6tr]

Hey timmy, which gauge wires did you use? I see that one of the wires are thicker than the rest which looks to be 16g wire. Could this problem solve my "door open" light staying on? My key fob won't lock the doors and 5 of my wires are cracked. Thanks for the video timmy the toolman.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I used the same gauge as the wire I was fixing. You can tell the gauge by using your wire strippers to figure it out. I used some wiring from a donor rig at a PicknPull. It might fix your door open light but it could be the switch in the lock mechanism as well. Those are known to get sticky. Good luck and you're very welcome.

[@juliannepascual5551]

Hi Timmy the toolman great video but I have some question on my 99 t4r I have issue on my Cargo light when the switch is on the ON position the light turn ON however when it is in the DOOR position it won't turn ON at all when the back door is open but it will turn ON when all other door was open! I also wonder where is the sensor for the back door maybe that could be the problem! please I need your input into this issue and thanks in advance

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The sensor is in the hatch mechanism. It might be a bit sticky. The way people address it is they take off the hatch lock mechanism, grind down the rivets to separate the mechanism and then clean up the switch. When you put it back on the hatch, the bolts hold it together and it doesn't need to be re-riveted.

[@juliannepascual5551]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Timmy you are very helpful

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@juliannepascual5551 You're very welcome.

[@nicolassanchez4786]

Hey Tim, I got a 99 4runner and my License plate lights wont turn on. I changed the bulbs and fuse and it still doesn't work could those wires affect my tag lights?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it could. The wires that run to the license plate light run thought the same pathway. Expose the wires like we show in the video and inspect the wires. You will probably find a broken one and probably others that are ready to break.

[@nicolassanchez4786]

@@TimmyTheToolman Totally spot on! The solid green wire was broke along with red blue, fixed both and license plate lights are working, THANK YOU!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@nicolassanchez4786 Good to hear Nicholas. Glad you got it fixed.

[@rclidinst]

Thank you very much for this video!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome Randy.

[@hansdavis9081]

You are criminally underrated on KZbin! Keep up the great work!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Hans. We appreciate the nice compliment. We will keep on keeping on. More good stuff to come from Timmy the Toolman and Sean.

[@tewatenebillemery5584]

thanks showing how remove top rear panel .butt connector to big.im soldering my wires and rubber heat shrink

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you stagger the butt connectors like I show in the video, they work just fine and don't take up too much space. But, soldering and heat shrink tubing is definitely a viable option. Good luck with the job.

[@mrsalazar4206]

I have that exact same problem.... thanks Timmy the toolman

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're very welcome and good luck with the wiring repair.

[@HumanBeing-c8w]

I have a 2003 4th gen 4runner and my hatch wire boot has a crumbled retainer clip where the boot enters the roof, so the boot is loose and water is coming in. Does anyone know the part number for this? Ive been searching for months with no info on this. I could use a new retainer clip cus the boot is fine.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Searching for months? Just visit your local Toyota dealer. They'll get it for you. I know you'll pay more buying it straight from the dealership, but this part can't cost that much. You are not going to get the answer you're looking for on our channel.

[@jaironbarrios3561]

good video well explained it helped me a lot the same problem thank you blessings

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to hear our video helped you out. You're very welcome.

[@Leino26]

Very useful video!!!. Wonderful job once again!!!.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks! Glad you like it.

[@ndeeeed]

Hey, I’m having issues with overcharging my car battery on my third GEN 4runner. Tim had a video of changing out a A cable integrated with the fuse or something like that. Can someone help point me in the right direction?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Daniel, how do you know your battery is getting overcharged? Have you hooked up a voltage meter to see what you're charging at? A healthy alternator should be providing 13.8 to 14.2 volts while running.

[@brandonm6117]

I had 3 wires completely snapped in half and 2 other wires with the copper exposed. It took me awhile to figure out the problem. My key fob wasn't working, rear defroster, rear window, and rear wiper.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

When I first had the problem, I thought it could be the wires leading from the body to the hatch but replacing the 20 amp fuse fixed the issue. But, 3 days later after opening the rear hatch more times, the gray power wire must have completely severed forcing me to look further into the problem. It took you a while to figure it out, but you did figure it out, and that's what's important. Good job!

[@15205golfer]

The issue with mine was the brake light. Opened up the harness and found about half of the wires were bad. Two broke and the others cracking and brittle. Also had problems with my remote, which was fixed when I repaired the wires.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Sounds like yours was in worse condition than mine. Good job fixing the problem.

[@15205golfer]

@@TimmyTheToolman I repaired ones that looked ready to go, figuring at first was going to do them all, just so I don't have to go in there again, but I was in a hurry. Thank you for helping me find the issue.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@15205golfer Yeah, definitely smart to fix any wire that looked compromised while you were in there. I ended up fixing 5 wires for mine. You're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!

[@gaige.slagle]

Would it be alright to use 16g wire rated for 15a to reconnect these wires?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If it's the same gauge as the wire you're fixing then it's ok. I would not use a thinner gauge wire but you could use thicker. Use of a pair of wire strippers will tell you the correct wire gauge. Start off at a size you will think is too big and go down one size at a time until the strippers will take off the plastic sheathing and expose the copper wire. Then you'll know the size of the wire you need to use to repair the bad section. There are different gauge wires in that bundle of wires leading to the hatch. It's not a one size fits all situation.

[@TRyan3]

Very nice

[@TimmyTheToolman]

So nice

[@handyman22]

Rather than using butt connectors I would suggest twisting the two wire ends together, solder them and then seal each section with heat shrink tubing. With this method your wires will sit together tighter and you get a cleaner looking job.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Different strokes for different folks. If you like to solder, then solder.

[@Perla.4417]

I just saw you on the free way by Jameson canyon!!!!! By the Napa airport

[@TimmyTheToolman]

It wasn't Timmy the Toolman. Maybe it was Sean.

[@SccRnHrsePowah]

Great vid just discovered i have wrecked wires. Can anyone confirm what gauge they are? I think 12 but not positive

[@TimmyTheToolman]

There's different size wires that run from the body to the hatch. Take a set of wire strippers and figure out the size. Start bigger than you think and keep downsizing until the strippers take off the wire sheathing and then you've figured out the wire size.

[@forogers7252]

You can also pick up a new harness from the dealer, although it is a bit pricey.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yeah, I would never go that far unless maybe there was an electrical fire and the wires were ruined. It's not hard and much more cost effective to just repair the wires that are damaged.

[@poncho0574]

Hey timmy, where can i get the original book manual for my toyota T100 1999 like your origina book manual you have ? By the way i'm at México, thanks brother.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You can find the 2 volume set for sale on Ebay most likely. Ebay is where I've bough all my Toyota factory service manuals. Happy Wrenching My Mexican Brother!

[@politesob]

Would this wiring have any effect on the rear cargo light that is close by?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it could be your issue because there is a switch in the hatch lock mechanism that communicates with the dome light. Does your light turn on when you have the switch in the "ON" position but then not work when you open the hatch and the switch is in the "Door" position? If this is the case, it could just be the switch is gummed in the the lock mechanism. It's a fairly common problem. I would first check the wiring like we show in the video. If the wiring is all good, I would suspect it's a problem with the switch in the lock mechanism. You can either just swap out the lock mechanism with a replacement that you maybe grab at a PicknPull wrecking yard or you can break open the lock mechanism and clean up the the switch and hope it works. Check out this post in a thread I started that shows how to go about fixing the lock mechanism switch: www.toyota-4runner.org/3531601-post67.html

[@politesob]

@@TimmyTheToolman the light doesn't power up for the door or the on switch, bought a replacement dome light and still didn't work either way, so I turned to you and this video😁 Thank you for your response 😊

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@politesob Well, since it's not working in both "ON' and "Door" and a replacement dome light didn't fix it, it has to be a wiring issue. Maybe I'm wrong about broken wiring leading to the hatch cant' affect the dome light. I would check the wiring leading to the hatch, fix any broken or cracked wires and see where that gets you.

[@politesob]

@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Tim, I know you're a busy man, so I appreciate you time and reply

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@politesob You're welcome. Let me know if broken wiring leading to the hatch was the issue.

[@rushthezeppelin]

Seems like you would be much better off doing some splices with solder and regular heat shrink. Much less bulk that way and the wires can articulate more.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We agree, depending on the butt connections you use, they can get pretty bulky. Thanks for stopping by the comments and sharing your 2¢

[@rushthezeppelin]

@@TimmyTheToolman Not a problem Tim, Sorry wasn't trying to to say "YOU'RE WRONG AND YOU SHOULD FEEL BAD". I also know crimp connectors are the more common way to do things with most DIYers because of the investment to have proper equipment for heatshrinking and soldering. I'm going to be redoing connections this way only because I happen to get a heat gun for splicing fly fishing lines together otherwise I would probably be using regular crimps and electrical tape. Need to eventually clean up the wiring for the cheap offroad lights that were on my 98 t4r when I bought it, one was shorting on me intermittently until I moved one of the wires around where it had a crimp connector right at the seam to the hood.

[@MarkamisPrime]

This finally happened to me. 😅. I know what im doing after work today

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Have fun with the wiring repairs, Bro.

[@MarkamisPrime]

Idk why but the broken wire was also not allowing the unlock/lock on my key fob to work. Weird

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@MarkamisPrime That is weird.

[@mazdatruckin]

can you guys find a way to open the hatch from the inside?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I take it you can't open your hatch. If we had somebody local to us with this problem, we'd probably help them figure it out, but as of now, we don't know of anyone.

[@mazdatruckin]

@@TimmyTheToolman hey Timmy! thanks for the reply. love your channel. nothing is wrong with my hatch at the moment. I was asking if you know a way to make some kind of latch or pull cord to open the hatch from the inside without rolling down the window. when I go camping I like to sleep in the back and would be nice to just open the hatch without rolling the window down even though I did the hatch widow mod.

[@zanderkatrakis3991]

@@mazdatruckin there's a mod for it, you can find the write- up on t4r.org

[@FirstnameLastname-ni9uh]

Does this also fix the rear defrost?

[@jonp.6131]

It should

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What year rig do you have. I have some wiring diagrams that might help you out.

[@cameronloflin2708]

Whats the green and yellow wirev

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Whatever you do, Do Not cut the green wire. Your rig will explode. On a more serious note, I'd have to look at a wiring diagram to figure it out and I don't particularly like looking at wiring diagrams. Here's a suggestion. If you like turning wrenches, invest in some Toyota factory service manuals for your rig. There's 3 books available and one of them is a wiring diagram book. I have bought all my factory service manuals on Ebay. Good luck!

[@leahpritchard4210]

What is that wire cover called??

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Are you talking about the OEM cover I cut open?

[@CursedCoff1n]

Where is the fuse located

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You have two fuse panels, one on the lower part of the dash panel close to the driver door and one on the driver side of the engine compartment. If you have an owners manual, I suggest you read through it. Based on your question, I think you would benefit from it.

[@levichandler1800]

Solved my problem!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Good to know our video helped you out Levi.

[@masonrodriguez9756]

Anybody know the color for the license plate?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We don't know the color of the wires that lead to the license plate light.

[@masonrodriguez9756]

@@TimmyTheToolman I actually found it! I have a True north swing out for a 3rd gen and wanted to light up my custom license plate bracket. The wire color that gets constant 12v is the solid green with no stripes. This run directly to the OEM license plate lights. I T tapped and heat shrunk my + line.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@masonrodriguez9756 Good to hear you figured it out.

[@valdiviajr1]

Were is the fuse to the rear window?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The rear window power is part of the 20 amp wiper circuit. So, check the 20 amp fuse for your wipers in the main fuse box under the dash.

[@valdiviajr1]

@@TimmyTheToolman thank you ur the man👍

[@robfox5562]

Good stuff

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Glad you like it Rob.

[@jordancrockerlv7489]

Dang you beat me lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Close but no cigar.

[@brandonm6117]

Hey, do you have an email? I want to send a cool invention I thought of for 4runners and I think you can provide good input

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Here it is: [e-mail]

[@VeryPersian]

Hmmmmm my rear window has become very slow.......

[@TimmyTheToolman]

That's most likely a problem with the motor. It has power obviously but the motor is just getting tired.

[@SJtoobsox]

First...get a wiring harness from a junkyard...lol..but seriously can I just buy wire at a hardware store?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Of course you can get wire from a hardware store. Just match the gauge of the wire you're repairing. I chose to get wire from a wrecked rig so I can keep the wire color scheme consistent. Personal preference.

[@drewshepard8002]

Hey hey. First one

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Congratulations Drew.

[@jbsmith86]

Don't use butt connectors

[@TimmyTheToolman]

And I guess you're the authority on this? Yeah no, you're not. The ones I used in this video aren't the normal butt connector. These shrink around the wire with a glue bond making it a very solid connection that keeps water and other contaminants out. Go preach on somebody else's channel. We don't want you unless you actually have something constructive to offer. You offered opinion like it's gospel and it's not.

[@jbsmith86]

@@TimmyTheToolman sorry didn't mean to be rude, really enjoy your content

[@jbsmith86]

@@TimmyTheToolman this is my opinion for other watchers after working on electronics in many other capacities (I'm a former Nintendo and Microsoft employee) I am impressed with the quality of your connectors but I think for beginners and the little amount of space available in this connector, soldiering might be a better option. This is just my opinion I hope you aren't mad at me. Honestly wasn't trying to come off that way. Here is more of something I would do: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKaWhYx4qJtofK8