Rebuild 4x4 Front Disc Brakes & Bearings | 1980-1996 Ford Bronco F150 | Dana 44 | Bronco Restoration

[@rob_v_nj]

Bro, you should win an award for this video.... watching ahead of doing my 84 F250. Thanks

[@bradleyearl8558]

Excellent verbal step by step . Great video 📹❤

[@adammunoz6356]

I am so glad I found your channel. I too have a 90 Eddie Bauer with the 5.8 and these videos are a godsend! Thank you!

[@gerardohuerta8303]

Agree. I also own a 1990 5.8 xlt.

[@andres99house]

I also own a 5.8 eddie bauer. We have automatic locking hubs!? This is a manual

[@rocketroy469]

I bought a low mileage 1990 f150 that sat for 9 years and needs this kind of work. When it’s 2 am snowing like hell in the mountains and my wife and kids are in the truck. I’ll think of you. Thanks ..and I mean that .

[@Cmoth040]

Excellent video. Anybody who teaches often forget that things that seem "common knowledge" are actually the foundation of the topic they're teaching. Especially for KZbin videos, where the ignorant come to learn (Hi, that's me by the way) it's important to describe things that you wouldn't think are necessary. I've been a trainer for nearly 20 years, you did a great job in hitting on some information that I needed to do this. I've got a leaking front hub on my 93 Bronco XLT. I'm not a mechanic, I'm an armorer. Things I wouldn't have known to get in preparation for taking apart my hub assembly I didn't have to find out the hard way. Thank you.

[@LibertyHillBily]

Your videos are the highest quality. My 1991 F150 4X4 and I thank you young man.

[@TheFixTech]

This repair will strengthen your trucks stopping power. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.

[@Samuel-sg6jq]

Amazing video. Do you have a video on how to replace the radius arm bushings and brackets by chance. I have the rivets on one side and it’s a pain.

[@TheCrofolks]

I watch your channel all the time and my level of self confidence to do these type repairs is increased immensely. Thank you so very much for not only sharing your expertise but also for being a great instructor along the way. Keep up the great work, my friend 👏👏💯

[@TheFixTech]

Thank you, much appreciated

[@number8pencil]

You are one hell of a teacher

[@russellwhalen1264]

Best video by far I’ve seen on doing this tedius job! It’s a lot of shtuff to do, but should last a LONG time, eh? Very thorough, and concise and a big help for humble diy cowboys like myself! Thanks!

[@TheFixTech]

Make sure to use quailty parts and this repair should last.

[@murphytoadster9864]

Man..... I'm so happy I came across this video. I could figure out why my 4x4 was popping and clanking really nastily. Turns out those hub gears were put in backwards! Now my bronco just floats right over the obstacles like butter .The only weird thing now is that when I lock the hubs but not engage 4x4, if I go over 30mph it makes this sound identical to dragging the pipe handle of a floor jack on asphalt. But under 30.mph no noise at all. I guess if I'm off road and wanna keep the hubs locked while not using the 4x4 that shouldn't be a big deal because out in the desert id definitely not be driving that fast on a trail

[@TheFixTech]

That maybe a sign of a worn front differential bearing. I would keep the hubs unlocked until party time

[@collinssmith6470]

I just got a 1990 EB bronco that I'm working on...thank you so much for the videos, keep em coming! I really appreciate it 🙏

[@pauldemartino4007]

Just wanted to say thank you this was a huge help very thorough this kind of video really helps us driveway mechanics may God bless appreciate it🙏👍

[@bobbywren123]

About to do this soon to the 92 Bronco, Thanks for the video.

[@jrcflaus]

One of the best mechanic videos I’ve ever seen. Very well done.

[@BinBlueSince92]

Had the same truck for 6 yrs. Love the channel and honestly follow ur videos for most of my questions. Top gun buddy 👌

[@TheFixTech]

Thanks for the support, Maverick

[@bajarunner1128]

Hello, just wanted to say I enjoy your videos, it's always fun to see how others work on their cars. I've been working on the 4th and 5th gen Broncos for a few decades and wanted to point out that you made a serious error that many people also seem to miss so your not alone. When you torque the inner bearing nut, its 50ft lbs, back 90°, then torque to 15 "INCH POUNDS". The outter nut is then torqued to 160-185ft lbs as you mentioned. 15ft lbs on the inner bearing is high enough to cook them. I think it very important that the video be edited. Again no judgment, great content, just pointing this out.

[@daveunderwood6498]

Good call!

[@shad0w307]

Do you know anything about the specs for the models equipped with a singular self locking spindle nut?

[@bajarunner1128]

@@daveunderwood6498 it's the same bearing procedure and final preload at 15 inch pounds, the self locking nut then holds itself in position. Their a pain to work with. However, I HIGHLY recommend you discard those self locking nuts for the double nut set up. Those self locking nuts are a disaster waiting to happen.

[@RoseBaby]

Great quality video as usual! Very helpful!

[@bignickrl_mvp8277]

Best descriptive video on this subject. Atleast from what I can find, thank you sir

[@brianboe3774]

I can’t believe you put that seal in with a hammer !!!! I guess it’s as critical as my semi

[@davidallancoe01]

Thanks so much, love the Bronco videos!

[@red182984]

Nice video, the first time I did this I was using a Chilton manual with not a clue.

[@jstndvs2007]

Adding this to my saved file!

[@davesbroncogarage]

Awesome videos! Excellent job 👏

[@williamhaggerson5490]

washing the rotor with Dawn and water before installation works best.

[@BottleJackBuddy]

Great how to video!

[@patrickgebauer5293]

Awesome. Thank you.

[@erocgr00t6]

Great video. Very well done

[@FloridaCrackerKustoms]

Excellent video, nicely done.

[@bangsbroncoiicorral127]

Awesome Job!

[@sousiemuhrez477]

Great job thanks

[@TheFixTech]

Thank you for your support!

[@meskism7271]

Hello @TheFixTech. I have a 96 XLT 5.0. I am looking to replace front rotors. I see there is an option for single or double hub seal. Can you shed some light on this? Which do I need? TIA

[@TheFixTech]

I do have a video on this, you will need the two piece seal: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJDUaYOwZtRli80si=9HNlIIdQggCE2N4T

[@cavincarter4439]

You talked about making sure that the socket doesn’t slip off the spindle nuts as to not strip the teeth, but if I were to have stripped said teeth, how do you recommend removing it?

[@TheFixTech]

There is a 4 prong socket that has the teeth recessed about 1/4 inch. This socket usually helps for the stripped nuts.

[@luxmagnumofficial]

Great video. So you had the entire front end held up by one jack stand under the pumpkin on the driver side? Am I following you correctly?

[@TheFixTech]

I did one side at a time, you can hole up the drivers side with the pumpkin, passenger side you can set the jack stand under the axle housing.

[@luxmagnumofficial]

I tried to do that, but it looked like it was really torquing the whole frame badly

[@thefirebirdman8370]

Great video but I have a question. Look at time stamps 2:11 and 14:16. At 2:11 you are removing the hub assembly. Assuming that the hub was assembled correctly previously, it clearly shows the teeth facing OUT on the sprocket or at the top of the sprocket. At 14:16 you flip it around to re-install it and even state that when the sprocket goes back in the teeth must be recessed. They were not installed in that recessed orientation when you disassembled the hub so now I'm confused as to how that sprocket goes back in.

[@markkramer4701]

Great video! Do you have a link to the seals as well?

[@TheFixTech]

There were a couple different style seals, the later 95/96 used the two piece design

[@frankgonzalez534]

As always great videos 👍what’s the difference on the automatic hubs my 90 Bronco has automatic hubs no need to get off and move the switch, also has the shifter on the floor no push button.

[@TheFixTech]

You will need a different tool/socket to remove the spindle nut, the rest is the same.

[@LeeLeezy19]

hey i did mines on my 91 ford f150 last month, but ik taking the hub off is a pain in the butt mines automatic but i was able to do the job

[@techmoto16]

Great video!!! I was going to buy the rotor and hub assembly from your link but it says it fits 1988-1992. I have an 87. But if I use the links for the rotor and hub separately it says they will fit. Do you know if the preassembled rotor/hub will work?

[@TheFixTech]

If your truck has the standard hubs then yes these rotors will work. If your truck hat the (hat) shaped hubs then you will need a different set of rotors. Ford used the “hat” style hubs for 1-2 years between 87-88 on certain model trucks.

[@brianbirc]

I DID THAT TO MY 44 ON MY 87 , i CHANGED THE FRONT EN CORE SUPPORT GRILL SND LIGHTS FENDERS AND HOOD AND THE SPINDLES THE CALIPERS BOLT TOSND UPGRADED THEM AND GUSSETED & PLATED ALSO DDED AN f250 SLIPSHAFT PAS SIDE AXLE WITH BIG U JOINTS.CYCLED IT ALL AND CLEARED IT GEARED AND LOCKED NEW RADIATOR & HID UPGRADED THE LIGHTS LONG BREAK LINES FRONT & REAR LONG TRAVEL CUT & TURNED KLIFT ON KING SHOCKS pOWDERCOATED IT ALL GLASS FENDERS AND HOOD . nO MORE BULLNOSE FRONT END ITS NOW 96A LOT MORE WORK BUILT DRIVETRAIN & ENGINE

[@TheFixTech]

That’s a lot of work, good job!

[@buildingsalvage]

at 14:06 you talk about the engagement gear orientation to the spring. Do you have a reference for it? In other videos and my truck it was orientated the other way and seemed to work fine when I manually locked the hubs. Need to find my repair manual and see what it says. Definitely wanna get in there and flip it if I have it wrong Appreciate your channel!

[@buildingsalvage]

Alright just watched another video and looks like they did it the same way as you. Guess I got my project for tonight!

[@TheFixTech]

Yes, I had to research this when I did the job. The way shown in the video is the correct way, and if placed in backwards it can fail (teeth will strip under heavy load)

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

The inner spindle nut is essentially losened back to finger-tight once the replacement bearings and races have been seated. The hub should't spin easy and have near zero play.

[@chikenburger]

How long would you say this job takes from start to finish if you didn’t have to instal brake lines?

[@TheFixTech]

About an hour each side, be sure to bleed the calipers (if replacing)

[@alexanderb4795]

What are some things I should do to a bronco that has been sitting for 15 years it’s a 1988.

[@TheFixTech]

First thing first is clean out the fuel system, new tank, pump, and filter; a step further replace the injectors (these trucks are old). Do a tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition module and coil. Change the fuel and ecm relays. Brake pads and rotors/drums, bleed out old brake fluid and full with new fluid. Check for a leaking brake master cylinder, if it is leaking, then replace. Replace rubber brake lines. Once the brakes are solid, then fun starts, take it out on drives and test drivetrain and suspension…

[@Isaiah134]

On my 95 f150 i only have one spindle nut so it is a bit different but great video otherwise

[@ivancastellano5685]

I have a 96 bronco with auto hubs, what size spindle nut socket do I use for that?

[@TheFixTech]

Nice truck! You will need the rounded hex style socket, size 2 1/2

[@ivancastellano5685]

I have that 2 1/2 socket but for some reason has trouble fitting in the hub… it needs to be smacked in with a dead blow and watching your video that socket went right on without hesitation

[@baby3steph]

I can’t find no 3-1/2 Allen. Where did u find it?

[@LethalityKing]

id doing a 5.8l with Auto 4x4 easier or harder then this? This really did not look hard! I feel the auto might be more of an issue I cant seem to find a good video

[@TheFixTech]

The auto hubs aren’t harder, they just have a couple more pieces required to remove. Keep everything sorted in order while removing the hubs. I have a video that will help, it is about converting auto hubs to manual hubs and it shows the whole process of removing auto hubs.

[@LethalityKing]

@@TheFixTech Thanks for the response. I did see the video. Would changing my Auto to Manual be better? Stupid questions I guess but right now I put my vehicle in 4X4 L or H and my hubs automatically know about it so they start working? the only difference if I had manual is after putting vehicle in 4X4 L or H id just have to get out and 'LOCK' them ?

[@MrFbcoachb25]

I have a 1995 Bronco with Manual Hubs and Mine has only one spindle nut with no pin and no washer or second spindle nut

[@TheFixTech]

You’ll need the complete set, not safe to drive otherwise

[@MrFbcoachb25]

Your videos really helped me with my issues. After 2 weeks of research I found that whoever did the conversion put the auto hub spindle nut back on after they converted to manual hubs. Also found that the 2.5 spindle nut socket does not fit in the end of the hub... and the spindle nut was tight, had to hammer notches into it to get it to spin. Thanks again for the videos. Helped me tremendously

[@unguidedone]

will this work for a f-150 1982 xl ?

[@alyssahammock2011]

What is the part number for the back seal

[@TheFixTech]

The most common is the one piece design which is timken 4250

[@TheSenojd57]

Can I ask why on earth you’d replace steel braided lines with rubber? The rubber lines are not near as strong….

[@TheFixTech]

The steel braided are longer and are intended for lifted trucks 6” lifts. They were rubbing on the tires during turns, I tried tying them will little success. I plan on a mild lift and will look into the steel braided line at that point. Rubber lines are pretty good when brand new, it’s after a few years they begin to wear.

[@omarmoreno7437]

Mine only has one spindle nut

[@TheFixTech]

Do you have auto or manual hubs? What year is your truck?

[@rrchicken117]

16:17 right left ahh yes my least favorite to bleed

[@darksid356]

Guy torques his hub nuts but not his wheels… what a tool🤣

[@4thhorsemen404]

I have the f150 1995 4wd is it the same on mine . I'm having a really hard time and I've been stuck. That spacer just pulls out to get to the next spindle nut so I can get the rotor off ?

[@TheFixTech]

If you have manual hubs then yes, it is the same. When the first spindle nut is removed you should see a spacer (with many holes), that spacer just slides out. Use a couple pics, one on each side of the spacer to pull the spacer out. Then the last hub nut will need to be removed for the rotor to slide out. If there is a lot of old grease and or water/rust, it will be a little tricky to remove the spacer. If you have auto hubs it will be different as ford used a 3 bolt and 5 bolt style for different years.