Rebuilding an engine. Best and cheapest parts cleaner - degreaser solution is - diesel fuel.

[@mentalkangaroo4228]

thank you so much for this video, I bought an extremely dirty 4G63 which I've gone through almost 50$ in supplies already getting nowhere, I assure you this will make my life much cheaper

[@hullinstruments]

I’m going to post another comment below that’s a copy and paste from another video… Where I shared some of my advice and tricks for cleaning industrial electronics and tips I use when restoring vintage machine tooling. It’s how the pros do it… And cuts down on 95% of the time and does a 10 times better job. Took me 15 years of trial and error to develop the method. It’s not like I invented it. But it took me a while to figure out what works for me. I use varying sizes and types of paintbrushes. The cheap one with plastic handles and synthetic bristles if possible.... considering they spend most of their life in water or chemicals. But they still last me a good long time! I also use “flux brushes“. Those cheap brushes about the size of a pencil. with thin metal handles… And the best trick I can suggest is to take a piece of heat shrink tubing and shrink it around the brush bristles. I have several different variations of flex brushes with heat shrink tubing of different links. Sometimes I leave a quarter inch of bristles sticking out.... sometimes only an eighth of an inch. The shorter the bristle sticking out of the heat shrink tubing, then the stiffer the brush will be. But the shorter bristles/stiffer brush won’t reach those hard to reach places. So I have several different lengths at hand. This gives very sturdy brushes that can be jabbed and poked very hard without worrying or ruining the bristles. and maintaining an insanely good cleaning action. I also use heat shrink tubing on my larger paintbrushes. Some 1 inch wide and 2 inch wide. I buy the cheap brushes with the plastic handles, and the synthetic bristles. I use extra large 1 inch or 2 inch heat shrink tubing shrunk around the bristles only leaving about an inch of the bristle length expose. This allows a very sturdy brush to clean things like guards, grill cloth, fan blades… You name it. I also drip “water thin” superglue down into the heat shrink tubing where the bristles are covered… Therefore giving the bristles a bit more support. Just be careful not to get it on the outer edge where the cleaning will take place. I restore, Repair, and calibrate electronic test equipment and industrial control equipment for a living.So I have to get equipment perfect and spotless FAST. So compressed air and an assortment of brushes is the only way to go. Also 99% Iso alcohol. I go through a 5 gallon jug per year AT LEAST. But it’s super cheap when purchased in bulk like that. Usually about $10 per gallon or less. And regarding my air compressor… I have a normal airline running into a 1/4 inch diameter airbrush hose. It’s a cloth covered hose and is extremely flexible. It has to be extremely flexible because airbrush artists need to feel no weight or resistance of the hose. It needs to feel like writing with a pencil in the air. So The hoses are extremely flexible. Since I spend eight hours or more a day with an air gun in my hands… The heavy rubber hose really gives my wrist bad cramps… And has no flexibility. the cheap airbrush hoses from Harbor freight can be adapted to fit a standard hose. I prefer the Pasche brand hoses. Also adapted my own custom blowgun configuration specifically made for cleaning electronics and industrial equipment. I use a pistol grip handle blow gun....The tube is probably 1/8 inch in diameter. so it’s already pretty thin… But I adapt a basket ball airing needle to the end of the pistol grip air gun. This makes it possible to only need about 35 psi from the compressor… But channels the air into a very small tube therefore increasing its pressure, flexibility, and ease of use. It’s so much more effective than any other gun I’ve tried. I’ve tried everything for years and this is by far the best I’ve tried.… I even went through three or four years buying restoring and collecting vintage air guns/blowers of all types. Beautiful solid brass and machined aluminum beauties. Some very nice and comfortable devices I have found… But the cheap pistol grip blow gun with the bicycle needle works best. I can completely clean and detail the most complex circuit board, or Devices with lots of small buttons and parts like machine control interfaces, even when rebuilding motors... the basketball needle and blow gun works wonders coupled with a few of my special brushes and a big squeeze bottle full of 99% Iso alcohol. The Squeeze bottle has an angled 90° tip. The tip has a very fine point making it possible to squirt the alcohol at a high pressure when squeezing the bottle. And the angled tip makes it easy to reach into tight places without moving your hand and wrist around. Much more comfortable when doing 8 hours a day. I squirt everything good with alcohol… Jab the brushes in there really good to get in the nooks and crannies… Use a big 2 inch paintbrush to cover the large areas… And blow it all off with the air gun. It Literally removes any type of buildup or grunge in seconds without having to touch it. Leaving behind no residue. And if this doesn’t work then one of my ultrasonic cleaners filled with IPA alcohol will do the trick. It’s always the best bet for cleaning bearings and things that are difficult to reach. I’m not ashamed or afraid of using water with my small electric pressure washer or standard garden hose hooked directly up to my hot water heater drain valve. A good degreaser like “totally awesome“ and my set of scrub brushes… And I’m not afraid to scrub down anything that needs it. Whether circuit boards, motor controllers, Hell even electric motors… As long as you have the setup for drying and evaporating things properly… there’s nothing to worry about. That’s how all of the professionals do it. Might scare some folks to see circuit boards being washed in the sink. But that’s how even the largest of PCB repair and manufacturing houses handle filthy boards. Hell I found a brand new 25hp three-phase motor a few months ago. Still bolted to the original pallet. It had an entire gallon of compressor oil spilled over the top of it which then seeped down into the grill and then the windings. The company took it to the scrap yard because they had no idea how to fix it and it was cheaper just to order a new one. A 400 pound beast of a motor. All it took was A good long hot bath with degreaser and a proper drying and evaporation… And that beauty runs like a dream. Evaporation and moisture removal is an completely separate topic that I could spend hours talking about 😂 This is just my experience… I enjoy your videos and thought I would share my advice. I rebuild fans and stuff for fun because normally I’m doing industrial stuff or other work in my electronics lab as part of my side business. So restoring small things like fans and such is good way to decompress. I Just restored a Honeywell DT- 70 tonight that My mom bought me in 98 when I was only 10 years old. I think that fan was turned on nonstop for literally 10 years. But Still in great shape. Enjoy your videos!

[@MrAssassinash]

I really appreciate this input. THANKYOU

[@kerryyeroyan8212]

Years ago, we used to dump a quart of engine oil and add a quart of diesel. We would run the engine to operating temp and then do an oil change. This was a common practice to help keep an engine clean. The new “low sulfur diesel unfortunately doesn’t have the lubricity properties of the old Diesel fuel. As an old Diesel tech I can tell you two things, Diesel is the best option for the money and water based products are garbage! Those water based products exist to to appease environmentalists and we all know the truth about their performance! Good video and I hope that engine ran well for you!

[@imhard2please503]

Thanks for the tip, never thought of adding diesel to engine oil to give it a flush. Looks like the hilux will get a service.

[@f-j-Services]

Off road diesel (if you can get it) can be cheaper. Has no road tax. Its got a red dye, so it might be a bit harder to see the bottom of your wash bin. Diesel is probably the best, safest and cheapest liquid to use for cleaning. It wont catch fire easily and it does not evaporate as fast as gasoline. If your parts are out drying, they might dry within a day to 8 or 9 days depending on temperature.

[@lifeisallaboutperspective9617]

You so cool. Also knowing how to fix car👍👍👍

[@WaschyNumber1]

Mineral Spirit ect are also highly flammable. In the good old days many people have cleaned ther engine parts and other parts with diesel.

[@227rootbeer]

Great video!

[@elizabethmyguguleboo0.o527]

This video helped me decide for gasoline or diesel to clean metal parts for my car. Thank you very much for providing such important information along with safety tips too. This is highly flammable and NO candles nor anything which could ignite should be close by. Also, I appreciate your insight on how clear diesel sits versus other. Where deposits clutter everywhere when engine parts sit inside the container. I cleaned with gasoline and it worked but I still had to use water and soap to take off the goo that used unleaded gasoline contains. Also, nice video🤩👍🥳

[@girishrajgor9791]

very gentle you are dear...greetings from india...i am mechanical...feel like assist you ..atleast to hold camera...btw ...good video...learnt some basics...why dont you start tutorials on basic things like various topics on car or its maintenance...of major systems...like faults and maintenance an fuel pumps...injection systems...in various models of car engines...btw if time permits...as i feel your speech, method of demonstration, views, video ...etc are too good...or rather perfect...carry on dear...it helps many...even if they do not comment....have nice day....

[@vanhap]

very helpful thank you

[@markjones3121]

There are various comments about the fire hazards of using diesel. Basically it's relatively safe. The flashpoint of diesel is well above room temperature so having a spark or a naked flame in the vicinity of a bath of diesel isn't going to ignite it.....even playing a flame directly onto the surface of the liquid - briefly - won't cause it to burn. What would be dangerous is having is spill onto say a carpet, soak in and then have a spark or flame touch the soaked article...or having soaked rags in the bath. Play a flame directly on them and they would burn. The other safety aspect is the steel container with lid. If you did get a burning rag in there, close the lid and deprived of oxygen the fire will quickly extinguish. Never use a plastic container! I am curious about the pump. The washer looks very the ones on the internet / Amazon that all say for aqueous solvents only with warnings about the pump being damaged by anything else. Anyone know if you can get away using diesel long-term with one of those pumps?

[@guerrag0411]

hello, same here looking for best cheap way to clean car parts, diesel it is.

[@ehs786]

If the issue was with steering leak why did u open the whole engine? How did u diagnose and what were the steps taken?

[@jessicalacosse5998]

Diesel is safe guys but leaves a residue which then needs to be cleaned off with another solvent

[@its_freddy]

thanks for the awesome tricks .. but btw your whole cleaning station is really hazardous... those electrical plugs extensions wires hanging above those petrol diesel gas and chemicals jugs / gallons are pretty dangerous.. hehe safety first brother

[@traviscuevas9101]

Did this before with a harbor freight parts cleaner. Diesel is best. It works and get a mechanics plastic Bristol brush for cleaning. Chemical gloves for fuel not the cheap rubber gloves they deteroate.

[@jessicalacosse5998]

Bit diesel leaves a residue and isn't advised. Then you have to use something like kerosene or mineral spirits to get rhe residue off

[@TurboHDT]

I have a bigger parts washer 60lt and use 20lt in it and I been using diesel for 30 years

[@girishrajgor9791]

I would give thousand likes...

[@thatpilotguy4995]

due has paintings in his garage

[@lsrracing]

1.89 for diesel…

[@jesseparris6507]

Not sure about having 10 gallons of diesel fuel sitting out in basically an open tub. It is flammable, not like gasoline but still can catch in the right circumstance. You need to read the instructions for that parts cleaner manual, I'm pretty sure it says not to use a petrochemical because the electric motor is not rated for diesel fuel. Looks like a Harbor Freight unit.

[@TheRealDogfart]

Dude, your work environment is an accident waiting to happen. I can’t tell if it’s a garage or a living room!