Rebuilding Front Fork Tubes - Yamaha Virago 1000 Restoration Video 7

[@AC-vz9cz]

Very good Ken can't wait to work on my 1994 Virago 1100 ! I miss my 1984 1000 . Cheers hope you put more videos on youtube I'm from BC West Coast close to Whistler in Garibaldi Highlands : Ralph

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Hey Ralph! Thanks for the kind words! Viragos are just awesome. I love the 1100 too...a bit easier to start and smoother torque. But the 1984 started it all and it's become quite the nostalgic piece. I'm doing the entire restoration for my channel and when the bike is done, I'll be doing another restoration and going on a lot of road trips with the "new" Virago. Stay tuned my friend!

[@richthepilot9906]

Thanks for the great video Ken! I’m just waiting for parts and progressive springs so I can service the forks on my 07 Vmax.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

VMax....yeah baby. Don't forget to tie your tongue to the outside of your helmet so you don't swallow it. That thing is a beast!

[@richthepilot9906]

Subscribed!

[@uhtred7860]

Another way to get a good uniform finish on the lowers is to glass bead blast them, they come up really nice.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

I’ll try that on the FZR forks.

[@wilianamaral]

Great content!

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Thanks!! I'm still really new at this KZbin stuff but I'm trying my best with what I have. Thanks for the nice compliment and thanks for watching!!

[@hyperbiker613]

Very informative!!

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Thanks!! Trying to get better at formatting my content to make it easier to see what I’m doing.

[@yarekk]

Awesome as usual. One suggestion I have is to go with a little beefier springs. My virago was constantly bottoming out even on small bumps until I put harder springs. Now it only bottoms out when I hit something harder. I wish I got even harder springs yet. Just a tad. I also found a sweet spot for oil, which was about 5mm higher than factory recommendation. Overfilling can blow out the seals ;) but just a little higher level gives me more of that air springing action that helps towards the end of fork travel. Mine is 1995 and doesn’t have the air valves… another benefit of beefing up the suspension (both front and rear) is that the bike stands about 1.5” taller when loaded and gives me more of the ground clearance I need so badly in turns ;) A spring change is quick and easy. I know you wanna keep it stock but this is a part no one will see and easy to swap back.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Hey bud!! I hear you but I have to be honest, this bike rides fine - in fact I found the rear shocks set to "max" on the preload and it was way to hard riding solo. I'm not sure if there was a difference between the setups with the variation in years, but I like the way this one rides. If I ever need to change it out, then yeah, for sure I'll try your suggestions!! One thing I did notice when I refilled the forks with oil is that there were two ways to do it; use volume of 372ccs or use the (linear) measurement method. I filled mine with exactly 372ccs then checked the level with my caliper and noticed it wasn't where it was supposed to be. Then I couldn't decipher the service manual using the scale measurement method. Also, both service manuals say 372cc for both the 1000 and 1100 but the measurement method shows 6.1" for the 1000 and 7.1" for the 1100. With that contradiction, I just stuck with 372cc and I'll test it from there. In any case, it was better than the black goo that came out of it. Ride safe my friend.

[@yarekk]

@@KensWorldRestorations you may have better roads than I do ;) Or have a smaller belly than me ;) Changing the fork oil did help, but it was way too soft for me, and the rear was bottoming out really hard when riding 2-up. It's possible that your springs were replaced already... and yes: it's an easy change later on if you decide to do it.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

@@yarekk I'll try adding air to the front when I get it all back together. The air part was leaking before (bad o-rings) so I couldn't even try it out. I've got all new o-rings and a new crossover tube and I'm going to completely overhaul that part of the system and get it working. The manual says to add only 6-8psi (small volume) so I'll keep you posted as to how that works out for me.

[@davemccann7510]

That "high tech" seal tool can be improved. Careful examination showed that a chamfer added to the inside wall of the tube, provided better clearance for the lip of the seal. By cutting a chamfer, there is no way the tool can contact the outside lip. Yes, I know the inside lip of the seal is the primary lip.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Agree. Every tool can be improved in some respects. That's the great part about sharing knowledge and information. Someone sees something that works and it sparks a certain creativity in others. With the Virago, there are several variations of the forks (for instance, my older version still has small holes in the top of the fork tubes for the air crossover system that was removed in the later 80's). This one worked fine for what I needed to do, especially since this brand of fork seal has an impression moulded into the outer face that matched the diameter of the 1 1/2" PVC tubing perfectly.

[@MrClics]

Hi Ken! My springs on Virago became very sift.... it is impossible to find progressive springs in my region... do you think it is reasonable to add say 2cm spacer under the top bolt to harden the springs a bit?

[@KensWorldRestorations]

I've personally never done that before but I have seen others use spacers if you have no other option. Before you do anything, make sure the fork oil level is correct quantity for your year. They're different from the 1000 to the 1100 and I think even the 750 might have different fork oil level. You'll want to verify with a service manual. If you check your original spacer, you might be able to find something that compresses the spring like you mentioned. Also, if you have an air valve like mine (up to 1990 I think) then you can add air up to 15psi.

[@MrClics]

@KensWorldRestorations thanks for your reply, Ken! My xv1100 year 1999 has no air valve. Manual says 396ml of oil is needed. What if I use 20W?

[@KensWorldRestorations]

@@MrClics If you can't find proper fork oil, then yes, using motor oil is ok for short term. Motor oil has additives that cause the oil to froth when used in forks (under normal or light use, it's still ok). I would hesitate using anything other than the recommended viscosity only because I've never experienced it and I don't know how the forks will respond. Be careful making changes outside of the shop manual recommendations - if you do, make small changes at a time and experiment to make sure things don't go bad.

[@MrClics]

@KensWorldRestorations dear Ken, thank you for your kind and detailed explanation, as usual! I wish you all the best and waiting for your new videos!!

[@mickleyland5057]

Just watched the fork rebuild video. Think I'll have a go !! One thing🤔 the troublesome 8mm Allen bolt at the bottom. Since you tightened it up after assembly, can it be loosened before stripping down fully, whilst still on the bike ?

[@KensWorldRestorations]

Yes, it can be loosened while on the bike. Best to try and loosen that bolt with the upper/inner tube still attached. The inner spring will add friction to reduce the likelihood of the dampener rod spinning. Use an impact gun if you have one. Be careful not to pull the bolt out completely unless you're ready to catch all the oil that's in the fork tube.

[@mickleyland5057]

@@KensWorldRestorations 👍 I've looked all over for the gold dust covers !! Where did you find them ?

[@KensWorldRestorations]

It was a lucky find on eBay.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

@@mickleyland5057 It was a lucky find on eBay

[@mickleyland5057]

@@KensWorldRestorations Hi, hope I'm not bothering you, but I have a question! I have stripped the forks down and noticed in both forks , the washer between the spring and spacer tube is missing. On the parts diagram it's item 12. Is this just an ordinary washer or a more specific item. They are out of stock and it will take a while to get them. I'd like to get on with things. Should I wait or could I use an appropriate replacement? Thanks 🙂👍