Rebuilding the Cheapest, Modified B8.5 S4 from Copart. First Drive

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[@artemvysh]

That "polished" pulley driven by the supercharger belt is an idler pulley and not water pump! Thanks for the correction @donnieballa6521!

[@ztdroider1]

Both my S4 rebuilds had their electric racks damaged from the impact, probably the case here as well. These frame rails are made out of play-doh and after getting a closer look in this video I can guarantee these will need to be pulled. As far as that passenger suspension goes, just get an entire knee assembly as all those components can bend as well. The subframe is brittle aluminum so definitely check it for cracks if you do end up fully restoring the car.

[@arabtheshake3820]

I love this engine, looking to buy c7.5 3.0, keep adding more videos!

[@asaltyrifle]

Just FYI if the parking brake and tire pressure warnings still pop up on the dash after you cleared the faults, it could be due to a wheel speed sensor or speed sensor wiring being damaged (I would think on the side with the bent suspension). I had damaged wheel speed wiring in the wheel well on my C7 and had those same errors plus some ABS and traction control ones and they all went away by repairing the wiring. Just figured I’d let you know in case. Anyway, best of luck with the power steering! Hopefully it’s a simple electrical/computer issue but if not, removing it is pretty simple too. Looking forward to more videos!

[@artemvysh]

Thank you for the advice, I’ll definitely check that!

[@user-fp6lm4mo8l]

Красавчик, продолжай в том же духе! From NC.

[@djraphaellourenco8321]

1. Verify the power supply into the Power Steering Control Module J500. Be sure to check the wires in a loaded state to ensure no voltage drops are present. A. Pin T2n/1 Black should have B+ at all times. This power comes from fuse SA3. B. Pin T6h/2 Black/Violet should have B+ with the key in the ON and CRANK positions. This power comes from fuse SC2. 2. Verify the ground supply into the J500 module. Be sure to check the wire in a loaded state to ensure no voltage drops are present. A. Pin T2n/2 Brown should be a good ground at all times. 3. Check the CAN-Bus wires into the J500 module. A. Pin T6h/4 Yellow is the CAN-High wire. There should be 2.5-3.5 volts present on this wire with the key in the ON position. B. Pin T6h/6 Green is the CAN-Low wire. There should be 2.5-1.5 volts present on this wire with the key in the ON position. 4. If power, ground, and CAN-Bus wires are okay but no communication can be established with the J500, then an internal issue with the module is indicated.

[@artemvysh]

Wow this is awesome info, thank you very much. I’ll def give that a shot and buy an oscilloscope

[@WinstonsGarage]

"Got a little bit of coolant in my eyes, no big deal LOLL"

[@mst2]

Can’t wait to see it on the road! Sounds amazing 🫶🏻

[@artemvysh]

Thank you!!!

[@djraphaellourenco8321]

first check power and ground at steering rack, check can lines and Lin lines, if all good try reflash the steering rack with Odis u need online access for that, but check can lines and powers first since u say u have no communication with the module as u say on the video 14:17 if u have a oscilloscope u can check the can bus ,try use a scaner with topology see if u have another modules down , on the chopped wires at the front any twisted wires??? they are normally can lines , good luck

[@JDFelda]

Such an underrated platform. Thanks for the killer content man, keep it up!

[@MaXpeedingRodsCoop]

keep your work !

[@Midebe]

great video, great project. Keep it up man. good luck

[@S5yBye]

Sound like you’re having the problem I was having with the rack you might need to mess with the tie rods tbh or replace the axles

[@ThatDIYguy862]

crash sensors dont need to be replaced btw from the accident unless they're completely destroyed. Also post error codes from the power steering

[@artemvysh]

Yeah the front sensors weren’t on the car anymore, but idk what shape the side ones are in. I’m guessing there’s some in the doors. Thanks! The steering code is B200049. Doesn’t really give much answers

[@ThatDIYguy862]

@@artemvysh I kind of doubt this will work but try it anyway VCDS, go in 44 - steering, login, basic settings - factory reset, turn ignition off for 3 min, then on and do the calibration. Unfortunately the next fix would be is replacing it if that doesn't work. 19249 44595 28183 try these log in codes for security access. At least replacing it is pretty easy.

[@artemvysh]

Thanks! I’ll give that a shot!

[@donnieballa6521]

I’ll be watching closely as I just got a b8.5 from copart as well. Water pump is the top big pulley

[@artemvysh]

Thank you, and yep I stand corrected. Best of luck with your b8.5!

[@marcusjlucas2156]

Why are not going the junkyard and purchase parts for the rebuild by looking a part car please think

[@artemvysh]

These cars are still too new and valuable, and very rarely make it to junk yards. The only junk yard I have in the area, has one pre-facelift A4 which is already completely torn down and has next to no usable parts. Plus in order to save money on paintwork, I need to find a same color parts car. The chances of that happening at a junk yard are next to none. Cars like this get auctioned off on Copart like mine did and junk yards won’t get their hands on them any time soon.

[@bobbyserchion]

Dog buying these vehicles is not a good choice I wish you real luck and I hope you sell it its not worth it😊😂😅

[@aguthrie91]

The 3.0T is the best engine Audi ever made.

[@axware7553]

These things are very reliable and fun

[@ioeonfn5551]

Got me a little tilted saying this. 3.0t from Audi is an engine I can 110% trust over a majority of engines, makes great power and still provides reliability seen a few friends of mine running these similar setups and well over 200k miles… 100% it is a good choice buying this vehicle for the price he got it for and what he will put in for maintenance and rebuild, it’ll still be way more then worth it 😂

[@bobbyserchion]

@@ioeonfn5551 hi again look it is what it is man I don't condemn Audi so much but they are known for bad engines

[@JonUF02]

Audi 3.0T with the manual (not the DSG automatic) is a good reliable combination. Very powerful, tunable, and reliable engine short of a few common maintenance issues which is mainly the thermostat, water pump, and PCV under the supercharger. About $1000 in parts maybe to refresh all the common failure items, and not that bad of a job. The 2.0t on the A4 of this generation is garbage, so there should be plenty of A4s with bad engines for sale cheap, and with the S-line package the front bumper and parts will all be a direct swap.