Recent Splitter Modifications

Recent Splitter Modifications

[@Alan_Hans__]

For the safety of the machine I'd be putting a spring inline with your autoretract stop. If it wasn't a super strong spring you could also use this to override the kick out so that if you had an over length log you could go the extra inch or so to accommodate.

[@siskiyouwoodsman4279]

Allan, thanks for the comment and I considered a spring as you said because I was also concerned about a pile up and damage. That said, on the first trial run I noticed that I could manually retract the cylinder albeit slowly due to the way I welded the washer to the end of the tube (not intensional just dumb luck) it has a profile sort of like an acorn nut ie very little surface contact so the lever can be pulled back and with the slack in the pins and link allows for enough movement to slowly retract the cylinder for those situations where a rogue long cut shows up. Also the hose clamp used for adjustment is tightened only enough to trip the valve spool and if held on purpose, the tube will slip though the grip and be pushed back into the outer tube without damage. Thanks again for viewing with a critical eye to see the areas of concern, I appreciate that!

[@rogerl8488]

Yes please , how did you make the thing that went over wedge an the cut out thing

[@siskiyouwoodsman4279]

I will Roger, but it’ll probably after winter as we are in the snow season here. It’s basically .325” 3x4” angle iron fit up to my wedge and the top strap is welded to the angle iron but not the wedge. Drilled and tapped the top of the wedge and the bolt is just there to hold it down. Not seen in the video are two short pieces of .325” round stock welded to the i-beam on the back side of the angle iron so the force of splitting the wood can’t push the angle iron back at the bottom and spread it (if that makes any sense?) Thanks for the comment.