recovering “BAD cell” on a car battery (cen-tech battery charger) harbor freight 2/10/40/200 amp

[@sc7609]

Just a testimony for this method. I tried some thing like this. It works. 3 year old battery, Walmart Maxx- brand, had not been driven for a while and had left the interior lights on. On top of that we had a 5 day long deep freeze (Dallas). After that, voltage reading was zero. I tried to jump it. Had to leave it connected to the running second car for almost an hour and then was able to jump start it. Was not able to restart it though. Voltage reading 2.5V. Charged it traditional method, reading only around 11, even that did not hold. So, I did some thing like in this video. 200a charger was really expensive but I bought one which had 30A charge but a 100A engine start setting, a smart charger. With the 4A and 30A setting, it would go off soon after turning on. I guess the smart thing did not want to charge it. So, I used the 100A engine start setting (current stays on constantly and charging voltage at this setting was 15.4V). Did several cycles of 10 minute on/ off, then several of 45 minutes on/off. I even did one cycle of 2 hours on. The battery never got too hot (only warm to touch). The electrolyte never boiled or overflowed (only very small bubbles). No final low amp charge. After this, battery was 12.7V. Closed the vents and put it back in vehicle. Perfect start. No problem yet (several days).

[@ConstitutionMattersMost]

Did you get 2 to 3 years out of that recharge?

[@mattwallace4522]

Yes hello did it last ?

[@jeanguillaume4589]

How’s the battery

[@Engineerboy100]

Great job on the video, thanks for the walk through of all the steps, very helpful.

[@delbertreno8089]

For somewhere around 50 years I have used just plain old grease on my battery terminals and it has worked just fine. Never worried about it being dielectric or silicone. I always saved the expensive stuff to put on the spark plug end of the wires.

[@Rebel9668]

That auto shut-off is why I like my old schumacher "dumb" charger/starter. It will charge at whatever it's set at.

[@ohioshootingandtesting8984]

Some newer charger actually detect sulfate in the battery and will do this cycle automatically. New Schumacher charger we have does it, and saved a napa battery that was in an f350 7.3l diesel.

[@bingramtube]

Hey man I see you utilize a copper tube (cut to size) to make your battery post bigger, Great idea!

[@guitaredup71]

Can also use aluminum can cut to size. If there is labeling on the can, scrape it off.

[@mtraven23]

@@guitaredup71 FYI: for both of those options, dielectric is a requirement..since your adding another difference metal.

[@dougharlow6037]

I have a Super Start Premium Battery Group Size 58. All my cells are bubbling. 3 were low on water so I topped all them with distilled water. I trickle charge (2 amp) for 16 hrs. Check the voltage, I had 0 volts? What am I doing wrong? Thanks

[@kfl611]

I forgot there was a day that you had to check your antifreeze levels, battery water levels, tire pressure levels, hoses before a road trip.

[@artcampbell9321]

Those copper sleeves on the battery post, from what I saw it looked like some corrosion between the post and the copper sleeves. That will not be very good contact. Need to remove the copper sleeves and clean the post and the inside of the copper sleeves. I use the red and green felt rings for the corrosion, works for me. Just saying.

[@JHEEENN]

Must be followed this battery recondition program

[@MrShakamuni01]

So how long have you had this unit? Seems to be a lot of complaints about it. Also it said in the instructions that a 40A charge will require and input of 10A but that is hard to believe if 40A at 12v is 480watts. Asking for off the grid reasons

[@какработатьвСШАпроприложению]

Thanks on the video

[@mq9167]

FYI, I dont think putting in 200 AMP start mode is a good idea. 200 amp start only is on for a few seconds and off. I think the 40 amp is the best fast charge setting. Also think recondition function may help

[@johnle231]

Oh so you can charge at high amperage manually if you put in start mode ?

[@RodknockRhett]

With the caps removed and while watching the temp, yes.

[@kenmorgan9528]

After reading all the following comments, may I suggest everyone visit "Uncle Tony's Garage" channel where he has posted a video using a DC welding machine to rejuvenate an old, tired battery....he sends a continuous 85 amps through the battery and gets a good, fast boil going on each cell and after a few cycles puts it back in his car where it performs well for the next year or so. Name of the video is "Reviving Dead Batteries with a Stick Welder". Live Free has done a good job with this video but I believe Uncle Tony has this method down better.

[@ee222]

curious why your battery charger link is not the same charger that you used in the video? did you find that the cen-tech is not as good as the schumacher? great video. i learned a lot from it.

[@Budgettools]

Because harborfreight doesn't do affiliate links but Amazon does

[@ProfessionalDad]

So just hope you get lucky during charges

[@jamesclark3205]

I don't get any bubbles when I do this

[@johnnydeep1599]

200 amp..fill with distilled water only to the bottom of the cap..every hour do 15 minutes not more.

[@ahndeux]

You don't get bubbles because this cheap charger can only give 200A boost for around 10 seconds and drop way down. Its not charging at the 200A level at any rate because it would overheat the charger. The electronic units all shuts down to protect itself from being runned at that amperage level for a long time. Get an ARC welder and you can maintain the higher current continuously. They are designed to provide high current in order to be able to weld metal. These chargers are just TOYS.

[@MrStealth654321]

637 ?

[@jasonbrown467]

i learned a few things from you, i have one for you: 12v can not shock you through your skin, not until about 30v. but dont use your tongue, that would be a different story, do you remember why you thought i had a dead cell?

[@Beautyofcolors]

First like, such an amazing video

[@Tracks777]

lovely content

[@aaroninks]

Everything good you did was negated when you put the silicone lube on. That belongs on the outside of the terminals to prevent corrosion. It’s is non conductive. You’ve blocked the electrical flow.

[@jesusmariarodriguezolivarr2477]

Con un amperímetro de gancho se debió mostrar el verdadero amperaje de carga, porque 200 Amo continuos por 15 minutos es demasiado y peligroso para la batería. Los 200 Amp son cuando la batería los jala para el arranque del auto y cuando solo se está cargando la batería no jala tantos amperes, esto cheque lo con un amperímetro. Gracias desde Mexicali B. C. México.

[@ahndeux]

Most Schumacher electronic chargers only deliver 200A for about 10 seconds and then it drops down. You are better off getting either a non-electronic charger with manual control or use an arc welder unit which can maintain the amperage over time. Just looking at the bubbles you have shows that its not charging at anywhere near even 50A to 100A level. Its maybe charging at 40A level and that is not going to remove the sulfation problem. You just basically just charged your battery up at around 40A at most in that time period.

[@khaibui3575]

any cheap 200amp welder you recommend?

[@gregre052]

​@@khaibui3575😊

[@gregre052]

I have what sounds like a twin. I suspected probs w. Fuel. of course. Is the Obvious. I can' t seem to spray the Starter. Might I be missing the correct location at thre front. The other side has a bowl so I assumed that front rectangle that had a rectangle pad on it Think so.?

[@stephenarling1667]

Looks like the charging at higher than standard voltage and current generates oxygen and hydrogen, and the bubbles break up the sulfate on the plates, exposing more active material to the acid. Bet this could be done with equal efficiency by the half-century-old "dumb" charger designs made with a 50 Amp engine start switch.

[@noelwellstead8744]

Battery gooroo 🤓 12v 200 amps fo15 min turn off for 60 min to cool . Do this 5 times then select 12v 2/10 amp to charge . Do this every 2 years

[@roofermarc1]

I just bought the same charger and I can't get it to work

[@robert5]

return it now

[@ahndeux]

@@robert5 Of course not. That cheap charger only gives you around 200A for 10 seconds and drops way down to protect itself. You either need a good expensive charger that can maintain 200A or get an ARC welder which can also maintain the current. These charger toys are really meant to give a quick boost of power when you start the engine and then it shuts the current down. In the video, if you look at the bubbles, its barely charging at the 20A to 40A range. If it was any higher, you would see the bubbles form like water boiling on a stove and even come over the top of the cap.

[@Tracks777]

awesome content

[@marbelz.p6018]

Lovely Video! Apologies for chiming in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you considered - Lammywalness Trendy Trade Guide (do a search on google)? It is an awesome one of a kind product for learning how to recondition batteries at home minus the headache. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my close friend Aubrey at last got amazing results with it.

[@luevang1909]

@@marbelz.p6018 said

[@luevang1909]

@@marbelz.p6018 said the

[@herobo123456]

If it has 12 v that is not the correct voltage 12 V is considered a bad battery what are you on about

[@StuffBudDuz]

Now we're gonna go ahead and put in in reverse.

[@PlayerColony]

How has it been working for you? We just got the Cen-Tech 200 amp charger from Harbor Freight for $120 and are following your procedure about 5 times over the course of the entire day and it seems to be working.

[@charlescoker7752]

Amazon sells a 200 amp Schumacher battery charger for 99$.

[@RodknockRhett]

@@charlescoker7752 Wouldn't touch it. Schumacher makes terrible products.

[@charlescoker7752]

@@RodknockRhett Who makes good ones?

[@RodknockRhett]

@@charlescoker7752 Cen-Tech, Sears/craftsman if you can still find them, Stanely/black & decker,

[@mightyspuds]

good vid!

[@Brando5858]

May i know the brand of your battery charger?

[@kennethmabus381]

Cen tech 200 amp from harbor freight

[@donutz1]

​@@kennethmabus381 @Live Free ​ @Live Free Do you know if the Cen tech will "stay on" 200 amp? I bought the Schumacher SC1285 12V Wheeled Battery Charger 40/200A Engine Starter and it does not stay on 200 amp, it auto switches to a lower 40a setting, there's no manual override to keep it at 200 amp 😤

[@kennethmabus381]

@@donutz1 no. It counts off and dont give you 200 consistant amps.

[@RodknockRhett]

@@donutz1 That's the worst brand... They make nothing but trash.

[@RodknockRhett]

@@kennethmabus381 It didn't in this video.

[@sebsefyu]

Awesome. I just bought this charger. In 200A mode when i push start is just says ON on display. Does the 200A actually goes when ON? When i disconnect and reconnect again then it shows 180 seconds (3 minutes) and counts down to zero. Is that 3 min ON and then it's OFF and you have to repeat every 3 minutes? I don't get that and i can't really measure 200A wtih multimeter so i don't know what's happening?

[@jetenginethrust863]

Read the manual manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/63423.pdf Page 12 of the PDF file it says ENGINE STARTING: NOTE: During extremely cold weather or when battery is severely exhausted, charge the battery at 10A for about five minutes before attempting to start engine. 1. Unplug Charger/Starter. 2. Make sure setting of Engine Start charge rate matches the vehicle battery. The emergency starter function should optimally supply at least 50% of required battery CCA rating. 3. Position AC and DC cables to reduce risk of damage by hood, door, or moving engine part. 4. Stay clear of fan blades, belts, pulleys, and other parts that can cause injury to persons. 5. Determine which battery post is grounded (connected) to the chassis. If negative post is grounded to chassis, see a. If positive post is grounded to the chassis, see b. a. For negative-grounded vehicle (as in most vehicles): • Connect POSITIVE (RED) clip from battery Charger/Starter to POSITIVE (POS, P, +) ungrounded post of battery. • Connect NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip to vehicle chassis or engine block away from battery. Do not connect clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or sheet-metal body parts. connect to a heavy gauge metal part of the frame or engine block. b. For positive-grounded vehicle: • Connect NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip from battery Charger/Starter to NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) ungrounded post of battery. Connect POSITIVE (RED) clip to vehicle chassis or engine block away from battery. Do not connect clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or sheet-metal body parts. connect to a heavy gauge metal part of the frame or engine block. 6. Plug Charger/Starter into grounded 120V receptacle. 7. Turn Power Switch on. 8. Press Function Select Button until 12V 200A Start lights up. 9. Press Start/Stop button to start function. 10. Turn ignition key. If engine fails to start, charge battery at 10A for an additional five minutes before attempting to start again. 11. After the engine starts, press Start/Stop button to stop function, then turn Power Switch off. 12. Unplug power cord, remove clip from vehicle chassis, and then remove clip from battery terminal. 13. After use clean, then store the charger indoors out of children’s reach.

[@ConstitutionMattersMost]

50% of most automotive batteries are approx 550 CCA,100% more or less, so yes it should be putting out 200 Amps in start mode. I'm sure there's more to it, with the electronic safety circuit in place.

[@ahndeux]

Most of these electronic chargers only provide the 200A boost for about 10 seconds and then it drops down to cool down. Its not designed for 200A of continual charging. The information is buried in their manuals. Its also to protect the units from being damaged by the heat, especially if it doesn't have a fan. You either try to find an older manual control charger or buy an ARC welder which can provide the amperage continuously. Most people using ARC welders seldom go above 130A to charge the batteries since the water and acid would be boiling over the cap top. You also get finer current control with an ARC welder.

[@c.salvador2268]

hi, im new to the channel and was brought in by a few late night searches lol i have a bunch of batteries with the same status as that one and have been wanting to revive these bricks problem is, the best i can get in my little corner of the world is a 100amp continuous charger. (start function only works for like 3 seconds of high amperage.) is that good enough to revive these lethargic batteries? also, hows this battery doing after a few months? cheers!

[@jesusmariarodriguezolivarr2477]

Dicen 200 Amp. Pero no lo demuestran con un amperímetro de gancho, hay un vídeo donde con 17.33V y 10 Amp se obtiene el burbujeo de las celdas, pueden ir probando y midiendo hasta que se consigue el burbujeo en ciclos para darle tiempo a la batería a enfriar. Con 100 A o 200 Amp continuos se me hace demasiado para la batería, el vídeo debió mostrar con un amperímetro de gancho el verdadero amperaje de carga.

[@williamhaskellhaskell3162]

You need to check. Gravity of each cell

[@jetenginethrust863]

This is supposed to be an educational video but you didn't perform the battery check properly. You turned the load on the battery off after only 3 seconds. It tells you right in the battery load testing tool user manual to put the load on the battery for at least 5 seconds (max 10) then look at the voltage gauge on it to see if the battery passes. That's a very important detail you overlooked & neglected to tell your audience. As an A&P Mechanic I'm sure you would want me to check the battery properly on the aircraft you or your loved one is flying on because as we all know you can't just pull off to the side of cloud nine if there's a problem right? I have to be a stickler for details & instructions like this because peoples lives are literally in my hands when I perform maintenance on aircraft. I know it's not on an aircraft but the test was not performed properly on the battery in this video. Please take this as constructive criticism & not a personal attack on your intelligence etc. & learn from it. Also dielectric grease/silicone lube helps stop corrosion on the battery terminals, AFTER they're connected by placing it over the already connected battery terminals. By putting it on the battery posts like you did you created more resistance to the flow of electricity because (From Wikipedia "A dielectric is an electrical insulator"), & most people do not know this. Most people think the dielectric grease helps with conductivity but it does not, it's the covering of the battery terminals & electrical connections with it that keeps oxygen from corroding the terminals & that's the main reason a lot of people use it. The oxygen & sulfuric acid fumes can't get through the paste of the dielectric grease/silicone lube & cause corrosion. BTW, I use my Snap-on Mt3750 AVR Battery Load Tester and Bc4200 Fast Charger to check and maintain my 6V and 12V batteries.

[@marknicolich5789]

pat yourself on the back yay for you your the smartest person commenting here maybe even in the whole tube world

[@ConstitutionMattersMost]

@@marknicolich5789 Good to know, Aircraft Mechanics are correct in what they do and what they know. This is why they get paid top dollar to keep us safe. Top knotch ! Something to aspire , want to be in life.✈️

[@ConstitutionMattersMost]

Good to know dielectric grease on the outside of the terminal also wait 5 seconds to 10 , when operating a load tester. Great support information.

[@ahndeux]

Better yet, just clean the terminal, connect it directly and then use a battery terminal spray like CRC 05046 battery terminal protector to keep the moisture and corrosion out. In order to have electrolytic corrosion, you need three elements, two dissimilar metal in direct contact and an electrolyte in between. Adding that copper layer in between actually makes the dissimilar metal problem worse. If it was lead on lead, even if there was an electrolyte in between, there is no electronegativity difference between two different metals. However, lead (and even copper) tends to oxidize and form an oxide layer which forms a non-conductive barrier. Its these oxides which creates additional electrical resistance. If a metal is in good contact, it will conduct. If it has a layer of oxide, that is when you tend to have issues. Putting a thin layer of lubricant over the metal surfaces does not make the electrical conductivity worse as the OP suggested. Its merely there to provide a layer to prevent direct exposure to the environment and forming an oxide layer. There is a lot of misconceptions even if you're an A&P. I've been an A&P mechanic for over 35 years and also an engineer. You have to understand the mechanism of oxidation and corrosion to understand how to prevent it. Believe it or not, airplanes are not as vulnerable to corrosion as compared to ships which is exposed not only to the environment, but to salt sprays. That is the ultimate worse conditions and not airplanes. I own several boats and have dealt with corrosion on the marine environment and its MUCH WORSE. The terminal spray is to create a moisture barrier so any electrolyte like water won't be able to get in in between. Other people have used WD-40, which is not a bad substitute because WD40 was designed to be a "water displacement" (hence the name "WD") and its an effective spray to prevent moisture intrusion. As a lubricant, WD40 not the best in my opinion. The only issue with WD40 is that it requires more reapplication because its a lighter and relatively low viscosity fluid. The CRC battery terminal protector or even CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor is a high viscosity fluid and tends to stay in place after it has been applied. It does a better job at protecting since it coats the terminals better and stays in place to prevent corrosion.

[@jetenginethrust863]

@@ahndeux I disagree snarky know-it-all. It's a common misconception that dielectric grease helps with conductivity. I was RESPECTFULLY pointing out some things for educational purposes unlike your Captain Obvious BS know-it-all attitude. Keep your BS comments to yourself or just STFU.

[@MARTINSCHOL-v7f]

Incorrect diagnostics and proceedure but thanks anyway, since this will serve as an example of faulty procedure with insufficient outcome.

[@BeADad2447]

Those battery chargers are useless, they are so smart they don't work. Get a manual one. You need to bring the battery to a fast boil. That little bubble isn't doing anything. Boil the battery to clean it and keep adding water as it boils.

[@luisesquivel7186]

👍 Muy cierto hermano. creo que en la oración y en la práctica es como llevarlo a la presencia de Dios. Pues como dice la palabra John 14:23 (LBLA): Jesús respondió, y le dijo: Si alguno me ama, guardará mi palabra; y mi Padre lo amará, y vendremos a él, y haremos con él morada.

[@2CabrasLocas]

Any harbor freight tools you DON'T have? 😅

[@MARTINSCHOL-v7f]

MarinShol ...Interstate Battery

[@GUNZsmokes]

Wouldn’t it be better to add sulfuric acid instead of distilled water

[@charlescoker7752]

From another video from a battery company. The acid, and water mix is 50/50.

[@hosslane320]

Sulfuric acid doesn't evaporate , just the water . Several have said .

[@MARTINSCHOL-v7f]

@6:49...NO...thats NOT good

[@PurpleHeartVR]

That battery is 7 years old, CHANGE IT.

[@tehdreamer]

nO

[@moonrider19681]

Follow up video

[@duke3326]

Data lost, nothing gained.

[@troymurphy6471]

Lol electrocute

[@ededmund5685]

LOL

[@edwardmoyer3189]

smh what a video. it showed nothing and you are using the wrong charger and you cant recover a bad cell and none of those cells were bad. you test theroy is wrong. if you gonna do a video then do it the right way

[@ahndeux]

Yup. He basically just charged his battery with a 20-40A charger in this video. The bubbles obviously shows that its not being charged at anywhere even above 40A at most. Most of these chargers only provide 200A for about 10 seconds and then the current goes down to protect itself from thermal damage. Either get a manual controlled charger or an ARC welder where its designed to maintain a high current for a long time. Its misleading for people to think these chargers even work because its designed not to provide continuous 200A charging. Its only to provide a brief 10 second boost so you can start a car, not to charge a battery continuously at that current level.

[@dnkhosro4861]

showing how to repair bad battery or showing how to take battery out of car????