Motorcycle Fuel Tank Restoration How to custom multicolored paint and gold line

[@Gus-cg9yp]

Lovely Job !!! thanks . Gus

[@catsmoto4614]

WOW 👍👍👍

[@Понемногуобовсем-с4ш]

Отличная работа!! У меня то же своя мастерская. Пиши пообщаемся.

[@dalepaddon8904]

Awesome

[@ivanshtumf7624]

Dobrá práce 👌👍

[@ReichmotoCz]

Dík :)

[@ДмитрийМишко-ш2в]

Respect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@LifeWithoutPassword]

Nice work sir.

[@qq8q5]

Amazing !

[@matteo6840]

Anybody knows which model the new fuel tank come from?

[@lastbreyt]

Great! 👏😎

[@arthur703]

👍

[@giovannicalifano7148]

why clear coat before the gold line?

[@oh8wingman]

There could be few reasons. First, the paint system might be a basecoat clearcoat system which should be clear coated before you handle the product much or mask the base coat as the tape adhesive could affect it and leave a residue. Another reason would be paints that are incompatible with one another. By clearing between different types of paint with the applicable clear it acts as a barrier to prevent problems. Third, the stripe may have been added as an afterthought to define what would have been a rather dull paint scheme. But this is not a professional painting here but rather and accomplish amateur on a budget. Pro's don't use loose leaf paper or newspaper for making. Newspaper is particularly bad as it drops lint on your surfaces which can marr your finish. Another thing was the use of a paint stripper to remove the old paint. Pro would never do that is the existing paint was in good shape as this obviously was with no chips or signs of rusting. Factory paint that is still well bonded and in good shape is an excellent substrate for a new paint job. Another thing about using stripper is it can get caught in seams and tight areas and come back to haunt you when you start to paint unless neutralized or thoroughly washed off. In addition, the use of a metal scraper can scratch the surface of the work which may create additional work to repair it. If the job required complete paint removal before a respray a pro would sand the old paint off with a random orbital sander and a coarse grit sandpaper to prevent possible problems. Stripper is for when you have no other way to go. Just some observations from working in a body shop for a while.

[@SR-gs8zo]

completely idiotic! the tank was perfectly fine! if you want to paint a fine paint surface you fon,t need to strip anytjing at all! just take off the emblems( i would have let them glued on honestly and worked around! bcs that is the same just zero work at all! ….and cover the emblems with blue tape….puff up the stripes/ lines witj some 300-400 grit to even them out as they are mostly paint on top if paint and all covered under a gokd clear coat( which is the best paint base anyways….) puff itvall down with 400-600 or steel wool, give it a light wash peimer to even out the color tone ….depending on wanted color for the new piant job different bases give better results….zero stripping! epoxy base…..another light puff / buff? of 400-600 more is never needed for any regular car or motrocycle paint job,,,,bcs high polish is done on thickly applied clear coats! ….base, another sandig, pigment, flakey/ perlif wanted,,,ckear coat( with pear or flakes if wnated) …second clear without any sanding after 30-45 min . to load up material for a polish….so all you jeed for one tank and two side dovers is 3 cans and 3 sheets of wet emerald paper…costs in Europe a max of 300 …maybe some 250 as it has become expensive but then you can even irder freely any pigment of choice…each can is around 40 bucks nowadays….so 250 is max with special effects and two pigments…why stripping and messing it up? that is job done in 3 evenings after work while the weather is warm outside…..maybe just 2 evenings, you jeed 24 hours for the primer to set compketely…you ruined a perfectly fine original factory tank,,,….