Remedying Resin Rejects! - Fixing Resin Printing Failure

[@NormLenhart-v4l]

New guy here. I'm currently going through a kinda/sorta sameish issue. Anycubic mono 5 Pro. The printer has been cleaned with IPA several times, FEP has been changed. Settings using Elegoo 8K water washable profile and resin. A week ago, print was fine. Since, one fail after another. Build plate undamaged and sticks fine. Same resin/different bottles bought together. Outer supports print fine. Center/object collapse into a mess. Seems strange outer supports stick and centers won't. Plate seems flat. Doesn't sound like a resin issue but who knows at this point. I'll beat this eventually but man, what a learning curve.

[@3DMusketeers]

well, water washable resin is garbage IMO, it is not safe to go down a sink and washes much easier in alcohol.. It does sound like you need to run an exposure test. I THINK you are underexposing. As the temps cool down, resin gets more viscous and requires more time to properly cure. Try the cones of calibration from Table Flip Foundry and see what it tells you :)

[@petesimchuk2325]

Lmao! Love this! Just stumbled on tour site. Subscribed now. ! Love it!

[@3DMusketeers]

Glad you enjoyed!

[@Monty-gh7hb]

I am already using Sirayatech Fast Grey and Fast Navy Grey, and it still wont stick to the build plate. Ive leveled using every method i can find. Ive changed the FEP. Please give me some advice...

[@3DMusketeers]

have you cleaned the build plate? if so, how?

[@Monty-gh7hb]

99% IPA and paper towels

[@JohnSmith-rt5yq]

I wish i had seen this video a year ago, where i spent 2 months trying to figure out my issues with my elegoo jupiter only to find that the resin i was using (ECO Resin) was the issue...

[@3DMusketeers]

something about that eco resin I have never liked....

[@AjeethCheppudira]

Interesting video. I bought my first rein printer Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra in January this year. It was very easy to setup My first test prints were very good using Elegoo water washable resin. I have used the Elegoo standard, and plant based resin with the settings recommended by Elegoo. The prints came out very good. I did not have any problems with the Elegoo resin. The siraya tech resin is 25 to 50 % more expensive than the Elegoo resins. So I prefer to continue with Elegoo resins.

[@3DMusketeers]

Yeah I dont know why we had issues back then. I dont mind spending more money on good resin though. Just remember, never put resin down the drain!

[@Illyrien]

Nice, I have the opposite.. first 15 builds failed... very frustrating. Anyways, once the current fails its sandpaper time :)

[@Eltsinoz]

Can’t understand why you levelled the plate with resin in the vat.surely you will get a layer of resin under it and get a bad levelling.

[@3DMusketeers]

Never once had an issue with it. I know you should do it empty, but this way has worked, so if it aint broke? But yes, it is recommended to do it empty or with a piece of paper

[@mwatkins0590]

standard elegoo resin works perfectly fine. if a printer can't print with it, either there is something wrong with the printer, or your settings are messed up.

[@markferrick10]

Another interesting video. Leveling the build plate and setting the correct z=0 height still confuses me some. I see most of you guys hit home, tighten the screws and start printing. On the Elegoo Mars 3, it says to hit home, tighten screws, then adjust z height until the paper pulls out with some resistance, then set z=0. Is this a mars 3 thing, or ??? Any guidance other than follow the manual? Thanks.............

[@3DMusketeers]

The pulling paper is a FDM thing.. I don't have a mars 3 though so not fully certain how they do it. We just loosen screws, lower plate to home, it'll set it's own height then tension the bolts. It will just sit on the leveling paper or the fep. I'm curious if that's what it says for the Mars 3.. can you send us some photos (on social or email?)

[@markferrick10]

@@3DMusketeers Of course. Posted the steps on your Facebook page.

[@3DMusketeers]

Thanks!

[@petesimchuk2325]

It's a Mars 4 max thing also

[@ianjohnson8419]

Were you ever as successful at getting the Solidoodle Press to work?

[@3DMusketeers]

Define success lol. It is on the set not because it works, but because I cannot bring myself to turn it into e-waste..

[@JBGecko13yt]

1st off I have all the same problems. I am using anycubic basic resin. might be the issue. what I have done so far; 1. I have the Anycubic Photon mono 5s 2. I sanded the build plate with 400 grit 3. I ptfe coated the resin chamber, maybe I did not wipe it down enough ? Still, everything is sticking to the film or dropping off the build plate. very frustrating Resin change incoming

[@3DMusketeers]

the ptfe lube is a misnomer, we know this now, it does not help. If things are not sticking to the build plate it is best to look into upping your initial exposure times. The Cones of Calibration from table Flip Foundry can easily help with this :)

[@JBGecko13yt]

@@3DMusketeers im testing this now with Siraya Tech Fast grey resin, after loading up their settings for my printer the Mono 5sr, the anycubic resin would just not stick

[@3DMusketeers]

yeah I like Siraya Tech resin here.

[@JBGecko13yt]

And even though this video is old but it is highly revelent

[@3DMusketeers]

yeah it does have some age lol

[@wktodd]

Also, not applicable to Florida, when cold I warm the build plate prior to printing

[@3DMusketeers]

Hey now, it gets into the 30s (0c ish) once to twice a year! But yes, 25c and above preferred!

[@wktodd]

@@3DMusketeers Just to emphasize the difference between Florida and UK... Last week, officially winter, I was riding around, and falling off of*, my push-bike. Today , officially spring, it has just started to snow (for the first time since last year!) How f'd up is this weather? *I have a bruise the colour of the Ukrainian flag on my arm, knee , side and have joined the Grant bad back application society ;-)

[@3DMusketeers]

Yeah, just a bit different than FL lol. It just gets really Rain-y here when spring hits.

[@kumada84]

Don't pour resin back into the bottle without using a mesh screen to filter it. You definitely don't want any chunks to end up in the bottle. (I just saw that this was discussed in another comment but I'll leave this too since it's important)

[@3DMusketeers]

Absolutely! Filters are needed.

[@Rcmike1234]

Are those vinyl gloves? 🥺 I thought you were supposed to use nitrile

[@3DMusketeers]

They are. No nitrile was available locally and the chem gloves we have. While useful are terrible for video. The vinyl works, you just don't want prolonged exposure to resin on them.

[@Rcmike1234]

@@3DMusketeers ah gotcha. 😘😘

[@sjc1778]

you should have put a paint filter in your funnel

[@sjc1778]

Photon S has regular LCD screens to btw. the difference between Og Photon and the S is Anycubic changed the mainboard to their POS proprietary board and went to the LED matrix array...and well the plastic crap case...

[@3DMusketeers]

Good to know! The naming scheme with these printers is terrible..

[@3DMusketeers]

Definitely should have. Was a bit frustrated when it happened and absolutely could not find them, so just went raw..

[@kumada84]

Also, always wear a respirator (or at least a good quality face mask) when sanding resin - you don't want to breathe resin dust

[@3DMusketeers]

Resin (dust too) is toxic :)

[@wktodd]

I clean the plate with acetone and scotchbrite.

[@3DMusketeers]

Went with alcohol and 600 grit, but can definitely try acetone. Why acetone over alcohol?

[@wktodd]

@@3DMusketeers Acetone slightly more aggressive perhaps but mainly because I had it to hand :-)

[@3DMusketeers]

I know this pain in life ha ha!

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

@@3DMusketeers Acetone will degrade the cured resin in a few minutes/half an hour

[@3DMusketeers]

@@runklestiltskin_2407 it will?!?! Nice!

[@karmaq8462]

I've been using sirayatech easy and have been having failures ...

[@3DMusketeers]

What is your temp ambient? Settings, slicer, printer etc?

[@karmaq8462]

@@3DMusketeers ambient temp is maybe 68-70 , I went with the settings from sirayatech and added 10 seconds to the bottom layers incase itz to cold and it's a saturn and I leveled everything.

[@3DMusketeers]

Yep that is your problem.. get it warmer.. The regular layers will suffer too.

[@Dwarfgrinder]

The siraya tech resin requires different settings such as both lower first and normal layer times. Therefore you have overexposed the successful print which pretty much garantees that the first layers will stick to the build plate. You also removed the cured mess from the original failure and sand it it twice. Yes siraya tech is great resin but I'm not convinced it was the only way to go here. Your results were good but I don't believe you achieved them for the same reasons you stated.

[@3DMusketeers]

Oh man this is an old video, I dont even remember it... I might have over exposed it.. Temps fluctuate so much here that it is a problem, and in fact pushed us to make our own heater system called The Politician (because it filters and produces hot air).