Remove Cranks Without A Crank Puller

I show how to pull the crankset off a bicycle without a puller tool. I have seen a lot of suggestions for removing bike crank arms without a crank puller, but most of them are bad ideas. I walk through each of these ideas and show some that will actually work without damaging the crankset or bottom bracket. I demonstrate successfully removing cranks without a crank puller in a couple different methods.
The bolts I showed were 7/16" for the square taper cranks, and 3/8" for the Octalink/ISIS (International Splined Interface Standard) cranks.
My recommendation is if you really care about your bicycle, buy the crank puller tool. They are usually relatively cheap. But some people live in places where simple tool like a crank puller would be extraordinarily expensive or hard to get. Like in deep rural areas of some countries. This video is for them.
Park Tool Compact Crank Puller
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...
How To Remove Crank Arm With Stripped Threads
• How To Remove Crank Ar...
How to NOT Strip Crank Arm Threads When Removing Cranks
• How to NOT Strip Crank...
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[@charlessanderson2079]

This is probably my first KZbin comment ever. Since KZbin was born. This video convinced me to buy a crank puller. You need to get into marketing.

[@Phil-qz6oc]

Same, and I don’t even have a bike.

[@Patient-Unknown]

I have the tool lost it came here to see if there was any ideas. I’ll go back to looking for the tool.

[@jesus71697]

​@@Phil-qz6octr3[reereeee

[@kyledurham5814]

If it was your first comment ever !! did you really need to say probably ?? White lies are OK though 😊

[@JoshNeil-zc4qc]

Hahahaha

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy

[@charliepi]

so glad you ended it with "just buy the tool". It's definitely one worth having.

[@leemilica]

Yea, but I am broke and 14 years old.

[@captainnemo2150]

How much are they?

[@Stephen-N]

@@captainnemo2150 about £12, halfords charge £10 so your best off just getting one if you plan on needing a new crank arm more than once

[@amirhouseingholinia2023]

Captain Nemo in China you can buy it for $2.50

[@joelrandle1972]

I bought one SO SORRY I DID instead of pulling it apart like it supposed to - apparently both of my square spindles are special NOT beware of buying you bicycle tools of amazon! It ripped the threads out of my pedal hanger ruining it! I could have saved myself about 30$ and a headache! Beings I know have to buy a new one I could have just cut it off (yes I used the tool properly!) Evidently mine are put on with more tourqe than the threads would stand up to

[@davidcummings5826]

Nice to have a video for all the folks who didn’t watch “How to remove a crank without stripping the threads.” We needed that...

[@chasingvenusfilmarts]

Best ad I've ever seen for "just buy the (proper) tool" . My thoughts exactly. Work smarter not harder.

[@selfactualizer2099]

No the proper tool stripped the thread. I had to get a gear puller which is a more effective tool that isn't even designed for bikes. Why does everyone on the internet try to assert their intelligence smh we are all dumb animals

[@AvaPxiaO]

Finally someone preaching sense instead of ruining good parts due to the laziness of getting the right tool. What I like about RJ is that he doesn't just tell you what is right and wrong, he explains rationally why something is right or wrong, so you are left with little doubt. If you have gotten stuck with a used bike whose crank-arms keep coming loose, and even thread glue doesn't keep them on, now you know how they got this way. Continuing to ride the bike home after they have gotten wobbly will finish the job of trashing them.

[@keithwarburton9610]

Your advice worked a treat. One of my 1989 Shimano cranks had a damaged thread but eventually came off with your final method. Thanks very much.

[@mobilephone4045]

I know this is a really old video, but I just wanted to say thanks. I live on a tiny island and it will take a month for a crank puller to get here, so I replicated your last method exactly (but with a metric bolt haha) and it worked a treat. I'm fixing up a really nice old bike from the 80s that I found in the trash, just for the purposes of learning and fun. I love your approach and your videos have been a gold mine of wisdom, so again, many many thanks.

[@laurentiussoepomo7747]

WoW.... I've just got that trouble recently and I almost gave up until I saw your inspirational video. Thanks Mr R.J. I will pull the Crank soon with one of your recommendation. God Bless You.

[@stevepedigo]

RJ-this is Steve Pedigo THE Bikeguy in Alpine, Texas!. It has been great seeing someone showing useful techniques for doing bike work. Though I have been doing this for many years, it's always refreshing to see someone else thatcares about the work they do-at least, on video. I've seen so many bike techs that are jaded, and don't care about their customer's bikes. Thank you for taking the time...

[@OriginalUsername9000]

I used your bearing puller method on a crank with stripped threads and it worked great after heating up and cooling it down a few times.

[@Toto-is8ci]

The additional detail of what size bolts to use for square taper vs octolink is why I watch your videos. Great job. There are lots of people who don't have the resources to spend even $5 for a puller and this will show the pros and cons of each method. As always illuminating.

[@timothysooknanan3990]

Wait so they bought a $300 bike and doesn't have $5 to buy a tool for the bike?smh

[@marygold7055]

@@timothysooknanan3990 s300 for a bike ? more like 150 dollars

[@JohnSefton]

Sometimes you can't just buy the tool.It might be a case of the tool broke or would not work if the threads are stripped out,as happened to me.

[@Friendroid]

Since April and thanks to your vids I've: fixed 3 kid size bikes (thought 1 kid how to ride); renovated an old mountain bike from the late 90s (strip down every single part except BB); bought and tuned a 2009 Specialized Hard Rock for myself (rode 150km these past 3 weeks); tuned a foldie for my sister and am in the process of renovating 2 more mtbs. THANK YOU!

[@eyesrajones]

Thank God for this video. I've got a crank with threads destroyed and didn't know what to do.

[@YaNo...]

This guy is very useful ....every time i got problem on my bike..i go to his channel...

[@kuechekretzschmar2655]

... and to Amazon afterwards I hope ....🤗

[@bert-the-cosh7493]

He is a pro with a nice clear presentation!

[@harrisonp3727]

Good ideas. I've got a crank arm with stripped threads and will try these out.

[@slippy9916]

Perfect Man. Had stripped out threads & been o there since late 90's. 2×4 & hammer Thanks man 🏁🏁🏁🏁

[@rgmtb]

Very helpful tips here! It's nice to have options that don't always focus on beating the heck out of the bike! Thank you :-)

[@arnaudsimon2616]

Thank you RJ, that video saved the day for me. Somewhere in Oregon, a crank arm with stripped threads is NO LONGER stuck!😊

[@unairamos74]

At last a sensible advice for those times when you need to carry out the one job and buying a specific tools is just not worth it. Thanks a lot!!!

[@isankalakshan5357]

This was really helpful,I was searching for a explained method of over all because my crank's pulley area was strapped off Thank you so much for keep doing videos of retro bikes❤️

[@swifttking4160]

So, I just recently got the tool to remove the cranks, but, I think this is such great info! Thanks for the amazing tips! 👍

[@kaylaparsley7468]

Very smart man. He knows what he is talking about!! This particular video is kinda long, but…. But, but, but if you know nothing about bikes (like myself) this video is extremely educational!! Thanks so much for posting “R J the bike guy!!” Appreciate your videos brother😀🤓

[@hEUgE65]

Thanks, I broke my removal- tool (bent the thread rod and stripped out the thread on the pedal arm bit) and went to brute force, not saving nothing since it's in total seizure. Good stuff.

[@ToninFightsEntropy]

Thank you for being so thorough! Excellent video!

[@redalert2834]

For those who don't have the time and patience to saw through the cranks or the bottom bracket, and don't mind damaging things when the crank threads are in a bad state already, thwack the chain rings directly with a hammer (rotating them between blows) and, for the trickier non-drive side crank, place a plank sideways on the ground and rest the inner surface of the crank, near the axle, on the plank - then hammer DOWN on the end of the crank using the plank as a pivot. This has worked well for me and the bottom bracket was still in good working order, amazingly!

[@WickedTwitches]

These videos have saved my bike at least once.

[@mikdaddario6257]

thanks, you have no idea how many times you help me out

[@ruralsalt]

So helpful. Thank you again for your tremendous videos.

[@pahaahv]

To me, the vice idea is the nicest. I designed a wooden puller tool for stripped threads with three long and wide headed bolts and three holes in a block, the heads of two bolts on the sides would go under the chainring and the middle bolt would push the bottom bracket axle. Also I have a soviet chainsaw puller tool that my dad lathed into the correct thread and this is now my main crank arm remover. But yet to try that wooden block puller, I think it would be a very cheap solution, although considering time, I saw a cheap puller for 2 bucks online, so essentially it would still be reasonable to get the real thing.

[@babyyoda1758]

Great video he goes through every jimyrig solution one after the other.

[@massimouguzzoni8631]

I have that problem, I'll try. Many many thanks. Best regards from Italy.

[@kpapi4355]

How did you know I needed this video RJ!

[@HobbsBhipp]

Thank you, you saved me time & money!

[@thomasc.belanger9893]

Hi RJ, been a while, I just replaced my crank arm the same way that I change my bearings, for years, never hurts anything unless it falls on my toe, I use the butane torch, all plastic off, heat ,and torn while applying pressure with a large screwdriver, fell off too fast the other day and hit my toe, Take care, trampolines today and tomorrow.☺ FanTom USA

[@dgtlionbarger]

Great information and organized. Thank you

[@heinverschuren2636]

'Just buy a crankpuller', my option of choice but crankpuller' for early 80's T.A. Specialities with an inner thread of 23mm are very hard to find. I'm convinced now that using the 3-armed automotive puller will work.

[@yggyking10]

I don't have a vice like you show at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="480">8:00</a>, so instead I drilled a 3/8" hole in a piece of 2x4, put a long 3/8" bolt through the hole, and bolted it onto the 2x4. This worked well as a support for the bottom bracket spindle and enabled me to pound off the drive-side crank. Victory at last, I've been wrestling with this crank for weeks!

[@kovie9162]

Great idea! I actually have an anvil with what I believe is a 3/8" square hole that I could use this solution on to secure the bolt that will protect the BB spindle. Btw, ever since you removed the crank this way, has the bottom bracket worked properly, i.e. smooth, no roughness or resistance or weird noises, etc.?

[@yggyking10]

@@kovie9162 I also replaced the bottom bracket during the same overhaul, so I can't answer that. It appears fine, and feels like it turns smoothly but I haven't tried it under load.

[@neon_one]

Learning how to clean my bike feels a lot like learning to be a bike repairman. Anyway these video are very helpful. Thanks. I like how you make everything visible and don't add music or unnecessary production BS like you're a cable tv host, which is popular now for some reason.

[@mazshaw5895]

Hi RJ. I do use the ball-joint tool method but only when the threads are stripped. In fact, I've used all of your methods at one time or another. Again, when the threads are stripped so no need to worry about damage to the chainset. Great advice on supporting, using rags etc. It only takes a few more minutes and can save other parts from being damaged. Not to mention minimising the absorption of impact, (if you Have to), when the BB axle is supported.

[@orianthigao6261]

Thank you so much. Tried to work out for 30 minutes until saw this video.

[@geoangelogener4070]

Thank you dor the best toturial

[@1972mdc]

Love your ideas! Built a few tools based on your videos including a derailleur straightener but in this case I have a park tool remover for taper but not spline…$15 I’ll just buy it and be done. Thx for the great videos

[@nancysmith9487]

Nice job... with all your ways of getting it done or unrecommended methods...

[@wildthinair]

Great video. I’ve got the Parktool puller and never looked back. 🇬🇧

[@MikeCheckBiloxi]

I was think of Scotty Kilmer when I hear you speak...and it tickles me

[@scottwalker3162]

I certainly wouldn't give that dude my klein mantra... Bent chainrings

[@suecarlson7311]

Love scotty and rj---but the tool with hot water and hammering worked--even a propane torch didn't

[@kovie9162]

Rev up your crank arms!

[@adhikkaputrasagala]

hail RJ, thankyou so much for the tips!

[@timcargile1562]

Best to buy the removal tool or a bicycle-specific tool kit (what I did).I wrote this before I watch RJ's best recommendation at the end. Thanks for creating and uploading this video, RJ.

[@PaulBillingtonFW]

I love you very authentic, down and dirty, advice. I spent much time looking at rich kids in lycra giving their methods. You show the option! Great work!

[@johnhill3507]

THANK YOU very helpful

[@johntaylor4193]

I’m gonna buy the tool.

[@bob-ny6kn]

Stripped crank-puller-mount threads are the common problem in used bicycles that people want working again where "the tool" will not work. Cutting takes just as long, is noisy, creates filings and uses up cutoff wheels. I like the bearing puller (triple-hook thing), but put a few, light, hammer-taps to help walk the crank off in a parallel motion.

[@philliptaylor3231]

Good guidance 👍🏾

[@snakeindigo7085]

+1 "just buy a crank puller". Cheap versus potentially trashing the whole bicycle frame!

[@vibs1614]

Great vid. I always use a correct puller however half the time it strips the treads....so then it's three prong or hack saw. I avoid the problem in the future by using never sieze on reassyembly.

[@TimpBizkit]

I might have to give the 3 jaw puller a try.

[@marvellousmusic4336]

Great video, i fitted a UN300 bb and then put my drive side chainset on but forgotten that it was bent so i wanted to remove again, the thread went on my crank puller so the srive side is stuck, as long as i can remove it, as you say i dont want to damge the BB, ut doesn't matter if the chainset gets damaged because I will be putting a new one on. Thank you.

[@blipco5]

I bought the Park Tool twenty years ago for cheap. My estimate is it will last forever at the rate I use it. Yes, it will outlast mankind.

[@brian57ba]

Thanks for your help and info it's a great help thanks!!

[@adamhughes3119]

Tried to saw through an octalink spindle. New blade in the saw, and it just skated over the steel. After 30 mins I had about a 1mm deep groove. Didn’t need the arm, and decided to risk the BB by using the brute force hammer method. It went much quicker 😁 Luckily it survived, still spins smooth, but be prepared to need a new BB if you try this method.

[@merkco.2459]

Thank for showing me everything top

[@aidavcomedy]

Im currently getting an aluminium one off a steel bike using caustic soda. It’s super destructive and a bit dangerous, but works if you’re desperate. I’ve gotten a stuck quill stem out this way, aluminium sometimes chemically bonds to steel, but it melts in caustic soda where steel is not too bothered by it

[@drbobjohnson812]

RJ I have benefited from many of your videos for quite some time, Just wanted to add one point about using a gear puller. In my area Southern CA - San Diego my local auto parts stores Orielly AKA Kragan and Auto Zone have gear pullers in their free tool rental program. Basically you put up a deposit equal to the price of the tool, use it, return it and get a full refund. In general what I do when I have a challenge with one of my bikes, #1 get the right tool for the job, if the tool wont work or it is one I would not use often I watch RJ the bike guy to learn how to make my own version of the tool and go from there

[@MrJay_White]

if you have used one of the methods that damages the interface, low strength threadlock can be used to fill the gaps so it seats firmly, and makes no difference when you next go to remove the crank with the tool.

[@BokorRider]

I had one with damaged threads no access to a 3 leg puller but a small propane blow torch. As long as your prepared to re-grease the bottom bracket heat the crank up and a tap with a hammer and off it will come....I have the correct puller ..plenty good ideas from RJ !

[@jdgoesham5381]

If you're just trying to get the arm off for say a pedal assist for certain sensors take off the outer bolt, make sure there's no plastic orings or retaining caps in the spindle and use a butane torch to the bottom of the arm and spindle and use pressure on the arm like pushing with a screwdriver or tapping at the base of the arm and for me it popped right off. I've had to do it twice on different bikes. And no hitting hard enough to do damage. It mostly just popped off with pushing lightly at the base when it got warm enough.

[@pluto2904]

Definitely worth being able to do it easily than struggling for hours

[@fishycomics]

I may haveto buy one only if I can find a 32 or 22 crank kit to swap out my Huffy parkside sprocket

[@vincentssoul2369]

got the same problem with non drive side, I found more compact version Windshield Wiper Arm Puller there is a several vertions with thinn grab where is a little space between arm and shell

[@adammackenzie]

Your vids are great...

[@mjlofttv7212]

Thank you

[@dcorica79]

Great video! Great channel! Goody goody gumdrops!

[@joelarmstrong6127]

Good idea to put it in a vice to isolate the impacts away from the frame. I was worried about damaging my aluminum frame

[@samteks125]

Definitely buy the Shimano tool if you can. Really worth the money

[@airforcevoyager]

Thank you so much!!! What I didn't know I didn't know, now I know. Don't have a crank puller but was able to knock of my crank arm cleanly, flat-head and hammer along the 4 points. I.g. Airforce_Voyager.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Should have just bought the tool.

[@bracala025]

thanks for the method!

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

You bet!

[@christopherschaefer8279]

This was excellent; thanks RJ!

[@geoffpoole483]

Hi RJ, I know you've made videos on using a crank tool. All I can add is not to rush the job when using one. It's very easy to damage the threads on the crank (a lesson I learned the hard way). Interesting to see ways of how NOT to remove a crank.

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGbKnnShgrGLbJI

[@jrhaole8135]

Thanks for showing me at this rate is time to just have the tool. Great options in a pinch, did it one before many years ago in my youth... With kids really into biking, I appreciate you taking the could hours to rehash everything to just give up the 15bucks, even if I am cheap!

[@jrhaole8135]

(you should add an affiliate link! I'm not usually a fan, but in this case you earned it and I'd click through! Bet you will end up with several spontaneous bucks a month!)

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

I have a link to a crank puller tool in the description if that is what you mean. Thanks.

[@jrhaole8135]

@@RJTheBikeGuy Totally missed that, thanks!

[@olroymtbetc.6117]

Excellent period of instruction! Informative and easy to comprehend. Always a good idea to have a plan "B"! I especially appreciate the non recommended methods, and why they're not a good idea. Kinda funny though, that all the videos you've put out, people apparently don't reference your channel and see the multitude of topics you've covered. Actually, it's scary and sad. Anyway, great job, as usual, and thank you!

[@nandmelchor5376]

i love your channel.

[@nicanorbadal689]

On the leftside crank arm you can maybe used a two arm wheel fuller...there are 3 arm wheel fuller that are designed to be easily converted to 2 arm

[@bradleycampbell8088]

Thanks! Rj TBG to the rescue again! Well what happened to me was I had some schwinn alu pedals for 3 summer seasons only, and used as a commute bike only. As per usual when pedals brake often it is the bolt inside. So it brakes I unscrew it(arm side not crank). I Use a spare plastic pedal. I think it had a different thread size it went in normal I thought there was too much resistance. So yep complete thread damage. I own a cheap screw in puller tool but it useless at this point. First time I've fixed this aspect of bicycle repair jobs. The bike was free and it needs the bottom bracket serviced/replaced anyway loose a d knocking noise. The bike was free found in a ditch in disrepair so gotta lol about that! It's sad but a free kinda sad.

[@quoththeraven3985]

Hey RJ. Great video, at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="480">8:00</a> put the crank arm in the vice and tap the spindle out of the crank arm. Much better way. Thx

[@joey0077d]

I bought the tool. But if your a type that doesn’t have the money to spend on tools . Your method in removing the cranks works. Thanks for sharing your video.

[@kovie9162]

If you can't afford a $5-10 tool or are too cheap to buy one and need to remove your cranks now and then, then you shouldn't be riding a bike, or should expect to have to junk it when it breaks down. Bikes are like cars, they have to be maintained and sometimes fixed, and that costs money. The methods shown here are for when the proper tools no longer work, not instead of using them.

[@Bishop0151]

Thank you for this. I'm in the process of trying to rescue a much abused bike that was left out withe the trash. Tying to pull the drive side crank to replace the chain rings and it's jammed so tight my crank extractor just pulled the threads out. I think I'll be trying the gear puller, more affordable than I feared. But you have given me options as well.

[@jamestate8094]

Was wondering if any of this advice changes if I just need to replace the LEFT crank arm only? Left arms threads stripped where the pedal attaches and I purchased a replacement arm and can’t get the original arm off, any advice would be much appreciated :)

[@martindemjan7368]

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="266">4:26</a> wow. So my Bike shop was Closed Sunday and of course I was impatient so I decided to hit Autozone and get one of these pullers. I have been losing my mind trying to make it work, I never would have thought to add the nut back in there. My “puller” also doesn’t have a big fat diamond end like yours. Do you have any more advice using this method? Thanks in advance.

[@1973honza]

Stuck or squeaking square tapered BBs are the biggest pain in the ass I have ever experienced with my bikes. Thank god for Hollowtech. It's the best thing that happened to cycling in ages, maybe ever.

[@jose73248]

Great video to remove the crank arms, thanks. I have a Trek 3700 26" with square taper bottom bracket. When I thigh the drive side bolt, the crank arms become harder to move, not totally stuck but you can easily notice it is harder to move. I just bought this ride so I don´t know much about history of previous repairs. Any ideas? Thanks!

[@RJTheBikeGuy]

Tightening the crank bolts shouldn't cause them to be harder to move, unless the spindle is too short, and it's pushing the arm into the bottom bracket or frame or something. Unless the spindle is damaged in some weird way.

[@Jamie-ro6sx]

Thank you for your wisdom sir. 🎉

[@DVEX1000]

I know that aluminum can absorb alot of heat, but would a torch help the arm expand open, just enough to remove the arm?

[@vincentvincent2658]

for rad runner + i used the puller on the drive side. cracked loose the tool but it woudnt come off except a little so i went on other side loosened the ring with the wire plug connected to it loosned it the other side came off now you twist off the the exposed threads with your fingers until both sides fall off completely. i did it this way because i bought the wrong type of crank puller set mine was tapered i bought oct.

[@naturandmor]

Thank you!

[@johnpena9165]

What if the arm threads are stripped and the tool won't work, will applying heat to the arm where it attaches to the crank then prying the arm off work ?

[@ceb9203]

A while ago i was faced with a cheap steel crankset with stripped treads n no way 2 get it off, easy fix was hit it with the blow torch n it fell off in 1 tap!

[@kovie9162]

I'm in this situation right now. I always used the proper removal tool but stripped the inner crank threads when I previously reinstalled the crank because the crank bolt washer was slightly cocked and sheared half the threads off. When I just tried to remove the crank to replace a chainring I found this out. I tried several non-destructive methods. First I tried to use plumber's tape to see if that would allow the removal tool to sufficiently bite into the crank threads, but that failed. Then I tried a 3" 2/3 jaw puller in both 2 and 3 jaw mode and all that it managed to do was chip off tiny parts of the crank from the inner side as the crank is rounded near the center and there's really nothing to grab onto. I'm hoping to be able to smooth out the gashes on that side with a rotary tool and that this didn't damage the crank structurally. Meantime I ordered an M22x1.00 tap set to see if I can repair and restore the inner crank threads so I can use a removal tool. My guess is that there's not enough metal left for that to be possible, but it's worth a try. M22 threaded bores are common on cars so I could always use them on that if I ever damage any. I also came upon a special crank removal tool made by Unior, (Square Taper Crank Puller - 1662/4), that has a hard tapered outer thread that digs into the crank where the threads were stripped, effectively retapping them and giving enough grip to then remove the crank. It's just over $20 and I'll probably buy it to make removal easier in the future if I'm unable to restore the crank threads. But one of the solutions in this video also occurred to me, to punch out the crank from the other side but by first protecting the spindle from movement so that the bottom bracket isn't damaged. I don't have a bench vise but I thought that resting whatever I used to protect the spindle against an anvil, which I do have, would accomplish the same thing. I figure that an impact socket of the right size would do the trick and its flat ends would prevent slippage. No way would I use a pickle fork let alone grind the crank out. It's over 20 years old and not that easy to replace affordably, and if I can save it and hopefully the bottom bracket, that would be ideal. But I will need that special removal tool for future removal, if I can't restore the crank threads. Lots of potential solutions that won't ruin the crank and/or bottom bracket.

[@allenmcdaniel1470]

Wish you would SHOW and talk briefly about the type of bike you're working on....where MADE, construction, year, $$ on used market, tire size, etc. Thanks. Good stuff!

[@skanskar]

the crank puller thread on the non drive side is damaged. Can they be re-threaded?