Removing a Load Bearing Wall

[@PhotoshopSimplified]

Love the deadpan humor. Nice job.

[@itsmerob6120]

Good shit. Dope father and sons crew. Appreciate the help and info

[@borys444]

Good stuff Brosky!!!

[@HodZ77]

Great video with superb explanation! You just got a new subscriber!

[@TheRealDadJokes]

Thanks for sharing, guys! Your video was just watched in Norway :D I wish you all the best!

[@elcismo19751]

Short to the point video!!!!!!!! Thanks for posting.....👍👍👍

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

Thanks for the feedback. We are good builders, trying to be better content providers to help people.

[@hagopzoulamian5692]

David Soriano to who it may concern what happens in a 50’s home that may require a double beam??????

[@bitemefishinvideos]

@@hagopzoulamian5692 probably put 2 beams in....just sayin

[@JoeJoSoulChild]

I totally needed this page today. Single mother of 3 putting in an addition into my new home, and I just got the plans and I am praying this goes fast and smooth. I am not sure how inspections will go and how that works. Scared here. haha.

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

Where are you building at and are you doing the work yourself???

[@JoeJoSoulChild]

@@stephensbrothersconstructi7294 i am building in the East Bay Area, California. I’m adding 450 sq ft . My home is currently a 2:1 and will be 3:2 when over. I’m doing kitchen remodel, extending the dining area and a master bedroom with bathroom. I have my cousin who is a contractor, but my architect was not the greatest and he originally told me this would be 500 sq ft and delayed this project several months. So, now reading over the plans with all these inspections it makes me so nervous for more delays. I just hope it’s not major delays. And I hope it looks as simple as how you guys did in your videos 😆😬✊🏽. I tried to be budget friendly with my architect and that was not the way to go 😣.

[@Handymanphilly]

Great video! I’m thinking about doing this myself in my own house in Philly! So, it was really informative!

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

Thank you I appreciate it. Any questions ask away

[@gfysyoutube]

Question. You don't have to secure the post to the beam with fasteners? Is it just squeezed together?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

Definitely secured.

[@j1234kid]

Should you keep the headers attached to the floor joist and then put the beam underneath it ? If so, how do you attach the beam to the header ?

[@jesusrobertoamaya]

I'm planning to open a low bearing wall the opening will be 13 ft on the lower level of the house. My question is what size beam do you recommend I install?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

Robert it is best to consult an engineer. The weight load is the easy part you want to make sure the shear value is calculated as well. For 13 feet I would use a 3 1/4 x 11 7/8 parallam but it depends on what’s above it.

[@Anthony-nc2dv]

NICE , how do you get beam size?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

it is called out on the plans by the engineer.

[@69mrpaladin]

what do you think a 6x12 beam for a 21 feet spam. Thank you, great video!!!!

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

I would personally use a glulam and you can look up on the manufacturers website the spans etc. Best to ask an engineer though.

[@samuely5892]

I’m expanding a kitchen to living room opening from 5 ft to 12 ft. Thinking of joining two 2x12x12s for the support beam held up by a 4x4 on each side. Reasonable? It’s a 1950s ranch. Thanks fir your feedback.

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

Absolutely reasonable. The bigger worry would be your sheer value of side to side movement. I would have to see a picture of the area to have an exact answer for you.

[@samuely5892]

@@stephensbrothersconstructi7294 Thanks. Will text you a pic.

[@marlorenee4193]

@@stephensbrothersconstructi7294 what is sheer value?

[@mae2759]

Good stuff. How do you calculate how big your beam has to be? Can you make it yourself with dimensional lumber?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

mae2759 we actually have full sets of plans and permits so it’s all engineered. They show the sizes of the beam needed. There are definitely ways to figure it out for yourself but in California where we are there are a ton of regulations and it requires an engineers stamp on plans.

[@ElliesDad1]

@@stephensbrothersconstructi7294 What is the full step process to do this? Do we need to hire an architect, structural engineer, etc?

[@illsuive]

Solid

[@paulbunyangonewild7596]

I have some questions, first, did yall end up nailing that paralam in place or no, I wouldn't feel to comfortable with that. Also, my mom has a beam in the middle of her room blocking the tv, but the ceiling is so low that a wood beam that big would stick out too far(though I'm sure even in wood it would have to be that big) would i be able to get away with something smaller if it's made of a sturdier material like steel? Just fyi my dad and his friends built part of the room hanging out of the side of the house, it's basically an extension of the room that already existed there, but they're on the original edge of the house, and that's the wall that the beam used to belong too.

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

The beam was nailed in place then after we remove the temp wall we install hardware per plans. It’s not shown in the video

[@manoloholmes5973]

Enjoy your videos Man thank you, I have a question the temporary wall needs to be built 3 feet from existing wall on both sides or just one side?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

This case it was an exterior wall so just one side. If its a wall with joists on both sides that land on it then yes you need a wall on both sides.

[@wholecodes431]

I wish you had a way to put the beam deeper

[@itskelvinn]

How much does this usually cost?

[@thebuff1611]

What about the load shift to the outside posts on the floor..all those studs are now gone and the load is shifted to the outside

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

This project has a full permit with engineered plans. The wall we opened up is an exterior wall with a continuous footing that was 24” deep and engineering only required us to place shear on each side of the new opening.

[@aliocho431]

How much would something like this cost?

[@hydro2938]

Nice. Why didn't you remove the old top double plate? I watch the video with no sound. (Everyone is sleeping)

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

The plans called for us to keep it. There’s h2s from the truss to the plate. We’ve cut the plates out before and just put straps but on this one it specifically called out to leave the plates.

[@mikkylecrewe8428]

Whts the dimensions on tht parallam?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

3 1/4" x 11 7/8"

[@mikkylecrewe8428]

@@stephensbrothersconstructi7294 thank you

[@bitemefishinvideos]

Great video, thanks! Doing the same to an exterior wall (1st floor, 2nd floor above) for bigger windows, but the joists run parallel to the exterior wall, so can't add the temporary supporting wall as shown in the video. Got any videos showing how to handle this?

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

If its upstairs and the joists are running parallel there should be a rim joist on the exterior. So what we do is strip the stucco or siding and tack studs to the outside of the rim joist down to the ground to hold the load until the beam goes in.

[@edbtzkhud]

That wall is running parallel with the ceiling joists not perpendicular to them. Which by definition means that wall is not a load bearing wall

[@keithprocter141]

The trusses in the new addition run parallel, but if you look as they hoist the beam you can see the ends of the joists or trusses that were held up by the old wall. They place the beam under the old top plate

[@isabellesebastiansadventur1858]

More videos at different angles

[@loganmoody5866]

Don’t need to have a stud for every joist for a temp wall

[@stephensbrothersconstructi7294]

You don’t “have” to, but we prefer to do it this way.