removing fxho long block including full exhaust and oil filter

[@biorcgis6383]

For those watching this for guidance. This is backwards...you hook to the oil cooler, slide the engine forward an inch and a half to clear the coupler and then lift. If you remove the oil filter it slides right out. A very slight rotation as you hoist to clear the rear mounts. The oil does not pour out when you remove the filter...only a little loss.

[@AndTodaysProjectIs]

The title literally says removing the motor and oil filter. I don't know how I could have titled this more clearly In hopes that people like yourself could actually read the title and realize the point I'm trying to make is you don't need to remove the freaking oil filter. Oh and literally not one drop of oil versus your Little bit of oil hoss". Did you not Believe me in the video that the motor comes out this way? Real mechanics can manipulate mechanical devices in ways that service manuals neglect to mention or lack clarity. This has been going on since the dawn of time before service manuals were a thing son. Basic level wannabe mechanics will always attempt to criticize video evidence that proves how something can be done in a different manner than the way their one service manual "suggests" that it be done. It's not your fault.. you just don't understand how to work around issues if it's not written right in front of you. Maybe someday you'll grow into the big pants that you think you wear mechanically speaking? You might want to edit your comment to state something like..."This is different than what the service manual suggests as a technique to remove the motor however using my god-given brain I'm still going to choose to criticize a video without realizing that a service manual will never ever lay out every single technique that could be used in order to achieve a goal". Or maybe you could take the time to post a video on your KZbin channel showing how you think this absolutely critically must be done? Oh wait.. All you have on your KZbin channel is one completely useless video. My bad. Here's another mechanical suggestion for you... Take your left hand and reach it over the top of your head to your right ear and hold. Now take your right hand and reach it over the top of your head to your left ear and hold. Now pull up as hard as you can to try and pull your head out of your arss hero. You're not saving the day with your little KZbin sniping for sure you. You're simply proving your own ignorance. 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@BCBnBgmail]

​I have purchased a 2008 FX HO and it appears the coupler bearing is bad. Have you ever changed this bearing without removing the motor, is that even possible? I wonder if it can be done by only removing the motor mount bolts, raise the motor ever so slightly and slide it forward hoping there will be enough room to slide the coupler off the splined jet drive shaft. In your video, did you remove the fuel injection and intake manifolds before pulling the motor or was this also still on the motor? ​@@AndTodaysProjectIs

[@Arlind86]

Where do u get a motor swap?

[@wannabeagamer1204]

They sell brand new motors for these on ebay at the moment for around $3600 shipped.

[@Arlind86]

@@wannabeagamer1204 yes 3600 for a 2006 jetski is almost what the jetski is worth itself. Def not worth the new 1 yr warranty motor from SBT for 3600

[@mikeg9329]

Did you replace the motor

[@anthonykontos7931]

@@Arlind86do you have a link from where you bought it from?

[@AndTodaysProjectIs]

​@@anthonykontos7931most people resort to ordering from SBT down in Clearwater Florida. If your motor does not have a hole in the block or a destroyed head or a busted crankshaft you typically can just do a core exchange for one of their motors. They have also now started having full complete 100% Chinese parts knock off motors that you do not need a core exchange for. If I had to choose between the two of those options I think I would rather try the Chinese knockoff and purchase the 2-year no-fault warranty if I intended on putting a shitload of hours on it the first year to make sure it doesn't come apart. It's just my thinking but with no credibility, that I would prefer to have something that is 100% engineered for each part to work in concert with the other part rather than trust one of the remanufactured Yamaha motors that they sell where it is a hodgepodge mix of both Japanese and Chinese knockoff parts. At the end of the day I think it's kind of a roll of the dice on either though. The best solution is to shop out of state if you are around saltwater and purchase an entire Yamaha WaveRunner from someone that maybe crashed the hull. Bring that to your mechanic as the donor motor and take the other expensive parts off of it like the gauge cluster, mid shaft coupler, jet pump and any other electronics and just sell those on eBay to make up the difference on the price that you paid. A Yamaha FXHO jet pump in good condition should met you at least $250 after shipping costs. The gauge cluster $150 after costs, mid shaft coupler 125.00, and especially the ECM computer which you should easily be able to get 450 to $550. If the damaged ski happens to come on a trailer with good paperwork 400 to $600 for a galvanized or painted and more for an aluminum. You can see how sometimes buying a busted hull can actually be worth it sometimes as long as the other parts are clean and usable for resale. I hope that that helps a little bit anyway

[@wannabeagamer1204]

Thanks for the video, was just deciding if i wanted to recommend a new engine for a ski at work or tell the boss to sell it, motor swap looks easy enough. Is that bracket you lifted the motor with something on the motor already or something you made/bought?

[@AndTodaysProjectIs]

No, that is the stock motor lift bracket on the front side of the motor between the exhaust elbow and the front of the motor