REMOVING THE REAR MAIN SEAL ON THE 671 SAWMILL ENGINE # 856

JUSTA MOVING ALONG , THANKS FOR WATCHING . JOHN

[@jerryking2418]

Keeping my fingers crossed that the new seal solves the oil leak. Thanks for sharing.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there so far it looks good . thanks for stopping in john

[@Frank-db6oj]

Great job John 👏 Thanks for sharing 👍

[@fricknjeep]

thank you john

[@TnScrapper52]

Pack the new seal with some grease to keep the metal spring from falling out when your tapping it in. The spring is the main failure in those seals.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there well it will have to be the next time . its already in , but i will remember that . thanks and for stopping in john

[@leonardconlon9319]

John. The Canadian again. Check your bore runout. When installing the new seal use a double lip seal ( for a wet clutch housing). Use a proper seal installer. Pull that seal in. Do not drive it in unless you feel lucky on driving it in. I never seen anyone lucky driving them in. Bottom seal out in bell housing. If crank has a groove (from old seals)use a speedy sleeve on the crank. Also the oil level in that engine should be 1/2” below oil pan gasket surface.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there well all good tips but it is all ready in . glad you stopped in john

[@ishure8849]

G'day John, that 40MT has a seal in the housing that the nose cone bolts up to that the armature shaft runs in to keep the oily greasy end separated from the non oily electrical section, when you take the starter off there are four round bungs at the end with cross slots in them they screw out but you'll need a punch to get them started then you can look in and see if there's oil in there 👍.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there i think i will just take it to the starter rebuilder . they are real good old timers i have been using sense the late 70s . thanks john

[@ishure8849]

Fair enough the knowledge those old tradesmen possess is being lost 👍

[@pocomokeforester2504]

I think the lacquer thinner softened the seal

[@fricknjeep]

hi there not sure . thanks for stopping in john

[@Biggestfoot10209]

Good find John, you would have thought that would show up when you pulled the flywheel but it didn’t. Maybe with all the hot weather the oil just spread all around and don’t show the streak running down from the seal.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there thanks for stopping by john

[@johnwoody4905]

i think the seal was defective too. lots of hard work just to fix it. i have had seal's were they set a long time and rubber may have stuck to shaft and did just like your. good video as always. it's hard to find USA made seals and bearing anymore last timkins bearing i got were made in turkey. take care, be safe and well

[@fricknjeep]

hi there thanks for dropping in john

[@geneporter4849]

I have never had a 671 that didn't leak oil good luck with it my old uncle Otto use to say that was what makes them work so good but oil was cheap and it was not a problem with getting it

[@fricknjeep]

hi there if there not leaking there empty john

[@geneporter4849]

@@fricknjeep that is a fact we used to check the oil in the 🐈 and poor some in the GM I had a 1271 that would run up mountain like it was going down hill but you had to poor a gollen of oil in when you get to the top good motor used to run from Florida to Washington State 2 times a month if I still had it I couldn't buy fuel to crank it up for a few minutes

[@douglasmiller7618]

You did great, just like a pro.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there time will tell . thanks for stopping in john

[@arlynnmumau9567]

The red material on the outside of the seal is Loctite to help seal it in when its seated.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there kind of thought it was . thanks john

[@williamellis8993]

I'm glad you were able to get it out and see that it was the problem. The only ting I know about seals is that you throw them a fish when they bark (lol). I was disappointed when you said you had a hammer and it actually was a hammer. Bill

[@fricknjeep]

hi there hope i don't have to throw a fish at this seal also , john

[@paulomeyer3900]

I think the rear bearing is bent. This always happens with large engines (including V8). In this case, you must first change the bearing, rectifying the crankshaft, and then change the seal.

[@fricknjeep]

well you may be right time will tell . thanks for dropping in john

[@randyc4959]

old engines with tons of hours on them can have a large amount of crankshaft end play, and that can cause a seal to fail. one reason to always put them in neutral and let the clutch engage, so the thrust bearing on the crank doesn't wear prematurely. might be wise to check that end play, so you know what you've got there. Too much movement will result in even worse problems.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there i am just going to run it and see what happens . thanks john

[@newsnowriversidesgtrock]

Just stay at it. It is the only way to get it done. Even if you hired it out the next guy would just have to stay at it until it was done. So..., DIY!

[@fricknjeep]

hi there hope to get the trans back in today . thanks for stopping in john

[@RichardThompson-gc1cf]

What gear do you plan on running the trans in when you start cutting ? Love your videos

[@fricknjeep]

hi there . i don't remember . john

[@cecilledbetter2715]

good Job

[@fricknjeep]

thank you john

[@marcpavlik8776]

John, mom's side of the family is Native American. Saying Indian shellac is in no means offensive to me.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there its good stuff . thanks john

[@chrisduggins3071]

See if you can look around the crankshaft end and make sure there is not an internal drain that might be plugged and holding more oil around the crankshaft end than there is supposed to be there

[@fricknjeep]

hi there thanks for the thought and sharing john

[@smity7096]

Detroit's always leak.

[@fricknjeep]

hi there not when there empty . lol thanks john