Removing the V8 Power tech/Magnum from the WJ Jeep episode 9

[@danzeman4520]

Great video again! I'm almost looking forward to doing my engine swap!

[@MsBrumak]

real good, do you have more episodes from taking out the engine ?

[@RikBor]

? Check my channel for more episodes. Sadly my health made it so I had to stop this project before it was finished. I have had 14 operations in the last 7 years but I am recovering now to a certain extent and I hope to continue this project this year all going well. Thank you for watching. Regards Rik

[@MsBrumak]

@@RikBor I wish you health and thanks for movies

[@RikBor]

@@MsBrumak Your very welcome. Regards Rik

[@BuiltByRik]

Sorry used my other channel to reply but its still me.

[@blinketyblob]

Nice one! Looking forward to doing some heart surgery on my WJ soon, your clips always make me feel more capable, thanks! Oh and what is the live video? I went to it before this thinking you was removing the engine on a live stream and was getting the popcorn ready then saw this video was up.

[@BuiltByRik]

+Chris Mason Well I was going to stream it live as I did it and people asking questions on the job but when I went to do it it did not work the same as before. So I recorded it instead. I still plan to do future live episodes where you can ask questions while working. Glad you enjoy my stuff. Makes me feel like my effort is worth it.

[@boogerhead0]

Oh, dude, the picker cross is 90 degrees to where it is supposed to be. You need to change the engine angle while picking or lowering it, and you have it side to side. Make it fore/aft next time. I've done this twice, by the way, and, again, no a/c compressor or condenser removal.

[@BuiltByRik]

If you noticed I used the factory pick up points? I have removed more engines than I care to remember and never failed removing one. Regards Rik

[@boogerhead0]

Home Mechanics The factory pickup points include the stud sticking out the front of the timing cover. The FSM shows this. With the provided chain L- on the left and right vertical studs, on the rear of the picker bar, and an additional (I had a length of chain in my shop) chain from the forward-stud to the front of the picker, then you can literally stand the engine on its tail as it comes out (actually, about 40 degrees), over the a/c condenser height (which you mentioned is a non-issue). This, by cranking the c/g as far forward while lifting the engine. The tilt also helps by allowing clearance of the throttle body under the cowl edge. I'm not doubting your capability in pulling engines, just pointing out how helpful the fore/aft c/g point movement is, in action.

[@BuiltByRik]

I never even checked the factory manual on lifting points lol. I did not give it much thought really. Bit like a bull in a China shop ripping that sucker out with brute force if need be :-)

[@10RFuentes]

so I need to take off the oil pan?

[@BuiltByRik]

To check the bearings? Yes

[@10RFuentes]

to take off the bolts on the fly wheel

[@BuiltByRik]

If your tak9ng out the engine and want to leave the sump / oil pan on the engine you can leave it on if you want. You just need to remove the lower flywheel cover to get access to the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. If you dont take these bolts out the torque converter will come out with the engine and oil will pour out everywhere and you could do some gamage to the gearbox. Henry please when asking questions a bit more explanation of what your doing would be great. This will help me answer your questions more accurately. Regards Rik

[@10RFuentes]

ok the fly wheel cover is off and I took off 2 screws holding the torque converter. shouldn't there be 4 screws ? if so how do I get to them

[@BuiltByRik]

Sorry late reply due to time zone differences. You need to turn the engine to get access to the other 2 bolts. Put a socket and a long bar on the front of the crank shaft and turn the engine till the bolts become visible.