Renault 1.9dci setting valve clearances and first start!

I finish off the cylinder head assembly, then check/adjust valve clearances.
Inlet: 0.15 to 0.25 mm
Exhaust: 0.35 to 0.45mm
Finally get the van started for the first time.....with a few issues!
Enjoy.

[@boosthit811]

If you enjoyed this video, give it a thumbs up and subscribe. Comment below....

[@steventspoon7468]

No one has done a cam belt and water pump change on the 1.9 that's any good ;)

[@boosthit811]

@@steventspoon7468 ha, do you want to see a how to? I done the van head rebuild out on he foot path on the ground so getting camera positioning and lighting was poor.

[@boosthit811]

@@steventspoon7468 no 1 seems to watch the van videos so if you are wondering what the running issues were: 1st problem was burnt ot MAF sensor. 2nd problem was failing accelerator pedal sensor. Van runs sweet now.👍

[@vasilizaitsef2252]

@@boosthit811 where is the video?

[@boosthit811]

@@vasilizaitsef2252 haven't bothered much with the van, not alot of interest in her. Running nice the last few months tho.👍

[@seanmartin7887]

Just ensure people know you corrected cylinder 4 (Renault go cyclinder 1 = Gearbox end / Cylinder 4 = Cam wheel end)

[@BoomTownRate]

Hi,Got a non-starting Renault Tragic (Trafic) 1.9DCI 2005 been attempting to get it going for 2weeks Symtoms.. Did have the glow plug light staying on - but cleared that by changing MAP sensor Cranks well but no start constantly buzzing fuel regulator on fuel pump (3v on earth coming from ECU, did have a mechanic look that thought it was a duff ecu, but tested with another ECU still the same) the live data shows ecu cranking voltage @9.7 cranking amps @450 fuel in pressure rail @52 bar both cranking and not cranking (WAY TOO LOW CRANKING) revs when cranking live data 230rpm tested accelerator peddle-clutch-brake in live data all working. Changed MAP-MAF- fuel rail pressure sensor- cam and crank position sensor fuel filter, checked wiring loom, fuses-relays. The 2 codes that are constant are DF081 preheat relay circuit DF061 pre-heater plug circuit any advice would be gratefully received.

[@boosthit811]

Oh ok......have you tested the glow plugs? An issue I have found with them is after replacing the fuel filter you can get a air bubble trapped in the feed line to the hp pump. With an led light look at the clear plastic fuel pipe and make sure no air pocket. Is the problem random or was it working fine before service? A relitive compression test is a quick test to confirm all ok. Also the cam sensor wiring should be checked as often rubs from top engine cover and injector wires.

[@boosthit811]

With all the sensors you have replaced are they oem or equivalent brands? Nothing worse than cheep Ebay sensors to send you on a goose chase

[@BoomTownRate]

@@boosthit811 tested glowplugs, even took them out and changed them so i could see the burn pattern from tip to shaft. Van first became hard to start over a few days, thinking it was the battery on its way out kept taking it off to charge, then it would be fine, then started running rough, stalling, hard to start, delay in revs, all came on at once. I just got a battery analyser, and it says batteries 46% good, and it says to replace. The air bubbles in the clear pipe, I did have a few but as its a bulb pump with a small air bleed valve on the filter housing I got rid of them, would air in the high pressure side of the pump cause a no start and explain the lake of rail pressure? (as you can tell i am not the most capable when it comes to diagnosing diesel systems)

[@BoomTownRate]

@@boosthit811 sadly some are ebay specials, as I was playing parts darts.

[@boosthit811]

@@BoomTownRate air in the high pressure side should pass through the injectors.....if they are been switched on and off? What's the mileage? You have checked the relays in engine compartment as known to corrode pins.....and like I said the top cover is often poorly fastened and shakes the maf sensor badly and also rubs injector wires through up near the plug. Carry out a simple resistance test across injector pins. Should be between 150k and 200k ohms. Make sure no continuity between pins and injector body.

[@richarddavis4378]

How do you make sure the camshaft goes back in the right position after it's been out? Is there a tool to set it in place at all. Thanks

[@boosthit811]

Hi. From memory there is a dot on the cam pully that lines up with the tin cover on side of engine. Also when fitting a new cam belt it has nice easy white marks to line everything up with

[@fabioleonidasromayrubio2218]

Hi, I have'nt see any lubrication or even any oil drop to the components you've assembly on the first part of the video. Is that correct?

[@boosthit811]

Yes during final assembly I use an oil can to make sure she was all good 👍

[@erdemir5641]

Can you tell me how I can learn more about this? My fuel pump bracket broke, fuel pump came loose so timing belt broke. I'm replacing the head but want to restore the old head myself and generally learn more about engines. I know so much about this 1.9 vivaro van in general, but not the internals of the engine. Seems like a specialist thing that you need experience with, not sure where to start

[@boosthit811]

Definitely go any buy the Haynes manual. That's a good start with technical specs and how to's

[@erdemir5641]

​@@boosthit811I've already got one. How difficult is it for a newbie to replace bent valves? I can't find a repair kit on ebay. Any ideas? Or any ideas where I can get a complete head from other than scrapyards?

[@boosthit811]

@@erdemir5641 ultimately you know your skill level and have to decide. Problem is mistakes with head, valve timing can be expensive. Could look on ebay

[@erdemir5641]

​@@boosthit811ok I've taken the head off and read up on what I can. Can you tell me which valve spring compressor you've got? As it looks bigger than the ones I'm looking at online and also the circular end fitting looks better. Others have got more like a claw. Thanks

[@erdemir5641]

​@@boosthit811ah it's a Halfords spring compressor isn't it?

[@VV-wl8gb]

Hi, would you know if all F9Q (1.9 dci) engines have share the same cylinder head regardless of their horse power? Thanks

[@boosthit811]

Hey man. Yes I believe so.

[@rushymoto]

Hi. What kind of sealant should be used on the head face where the bearing carrier touches down? has it got an O ring or seal on the underside of the carrier? I have a mystery oil leak/weep from this area and may need to split it to re seal it. My valve clearences are a little tight but I can see from the finish on the lobes that they are not riding so I dont want to get involved with setting them up. Unless the buckets are available cheaply.

[@boosthit811]

I used permatex form a gasket aviation formula. You could also use hylomar blue. No oring. Just sealant. Sometimes the big rubber gasket can pop out when putting the cover on. Also the 3 bolts on top have rubber seals that leak over time.

[@rushymoto]

@@boosthit811 yes I found the new rubber didn't want to lay in very easy on the curved ends. I had to recoil the 3 bolt holes as one stripped so I did them all. I saw the weep with a mirror down the back of cover area about near the middle cam bearing notch. I didn't see if it was the face join or the cover rubber. Just been out and it still leaks.

[@funv3188]

Hi, did you fixed that leak ? We used to have this Tragig too, and found that leaks too. No original gasket are available underneath valve cover bottom frame, which sits on engine head boddy, just silicone. So sealing depends on the master, and need to be checked often as there are hight temperatures...So leaks were everywhere on the back of engine, it looked like head gasket was blown, or leaks from turbo, EGR valves, pipes. ,as oil was everywhere on the back of that Tragic Ii 1.9 dci 😂 Renault engineers didn't bother about gaskets when they designed those cars

[@rushymoto]

@@funv3188 To seal faces of cam box I used Permotex. Aviation Form-a-gasket. It is in small bottle with brush inside lid.

[@erdemir5641]

​@@boosthit811is this what's called the 'camshaft bearing cap retainer' in the Haynes manual? They recommend Loctite 518

[@eyeswideshut7732]

what where the injectors get out🤪

[@josepeixoto3384]

You of course realize you did not show anything,as far as *MEASURING* (the valves clearances and the thickness of the tappets) ; gotta be a joke...

[@boosthit811]

Valve clearances are checked with a feeler gauge. Then you would remove the buckets and use a micrometer to measure the length. Finally you would fit eather shorter on longer buckets to add or remove clearance.

[@rushymoto]

@@boosthit811 I am used to shims and buckets on bikes. My Vivaro has just over 200K miles on it and the witness finish on the ramps of the cam lobe is clearly different from the inner base circle so I know they are not riding when up to temp. They are all getting a little tight though as the inlet feeler hardly slides in to any of them when checking. I wont be adjusting them as its only a 2nd vehicle for me to use from time to time, I wont be putting to much more miles on it. I may however need to lift the carrier top part to re seal it as I think I have an oil weep running down the back of the engine. I have just done the timing belt and water pump so it looks like I will be having that all off again.

[@boosthit811]

@@rushymoto that sounds annoying! Yeah these buckets are just fixed. No shimming to adjust. Complete bucket change out to different size to adjust clearance

[@rushymoto]

@@boosthit811 what about the head to carrier seal ? Is it a gasket or is special sealent needed. ?

[@boosthit811]

@@rushymoto I replied to your question before......I used permatex aviation formula. Hylomar blue should work well also