Renault Clio 1.2 16v D4F Throttle Body Removal

[@MrMooseAndThat]

This cured my Clio's 2002 1.2 Expression's issues. I can't thank this video enough for its assistance. My Clio has slowly been getting worse over the past 6 months and would cut out more regularly when stopping. Every time I pulled up to lights, roundabouts or to park etc... the electrical warning light would appear, revs would drop and the only way to save this would be to rev the engine a couple of times. The issue would be fine until I slowed down again. I took the car to 3 garages who all ran diagnostic test, changed the mapping and TDC sensors but nothing worked. Finally I came across this video, carried out the cleaning of the throttle body put it all back together and it worked. The car runs like new and has not cut out since.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Thats fantastic news to hear, thanks for letting me know, its good to hear the car is running well now.

[@3LITEDJ]

This video was easy to follow considering I know nothing about cars and now my 2001 1.2 Clio is working a treat! No more cutting out at junctions or dodgy idling. Cheers for the video man!

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Great stuff, thanks for the comment.

[@leebrown2189]

Excellent video. Followed it through and cleaned my own throttle body (replacing a faulty air temperature sensor in the process). One small problem though, the video suggests the top bolts for the inlet manifold require an E6 socket. On my Clio, at least, they were E8 Torx bolts, rather than E6. Thankfully I'd bought both at Halfords just in case. Something to bear in mind before commencing the work!

[@Onedarkandwindynight]

Great video, thanks. My daughter has the Automatic version, cleaning the throttle body cured the following symptoms: Wouldn't change auto gears properly, Engine cut out at junctions, Stuck in second gear regardless of speed, sudden and dramatic loss of power, etc. Thank you again.

[@misfozzie5058]

PIĘKNIE DZIĘKUJĘ !!! bez tego poradnika nie dałbym rady - TWINGO 02R-SELESPEED

[@sebaseba2001]

I've did this a few days ago. ~20 years old. Haven't changed any gaskets, they seemed OK. I've used a paper clip to clean the hole shown at 09:00. If the paper clip has plastic, you have to remove it. The hole is really thin. Instead of carb cleaner I've used acetone. I can confirm E8 torx, for removing the inner parts I think it's a torx 30. On my car I have AC. There weren't any particular problems due to it. I've used various flexible/bendable/stiff adapters of various lengths to get to all of the screws. Prepare to be really creative. I've also had a problem with the capacitor of the ignition coils (shown here at 4:40). It was broken. I've replaced it with a normal 2.2 uF 100 V+ (I've used a 400 V one) capacitor soldered to the metal part and fixed with epoxy putty. Also the connectors of the ECU had signs of corrosion (blue-green crap). I've used KONTAKT 60 spray. Replaced also MAP filter which I've broken by trying to remove it to clean it. It was really hard to remove the wires to the spark plugs. I've used pliers under the widened part and raised the pliers on one side by pushing on the otherside down into the inlet manifold, basically using leverage to raise them. The hardest part was putting back the first fuel pipe (1:40). I've used some WD-40 to help me and a torx key to help me push on one button. I needed around 1 h to dissasemble, but I wasn't really rushing.

[@sebaseba2001]

OK, after about two weeks it became a bit jittery ocassionaly and fuel consumption has been slowly rising. Torque on Android didn't show any errors, but CarScanner for Android (which probes extra errors) did. Also LTFT (fuel trim) has been +50% (which means, that there should be +50% more fuel, it stops at ~50% as above that the ECU doesn't allow) while idling and wasn't great while driving either. After an another 2 weeks even the error light on the dashboard lit up once. I've added first a an injector cleaner solution in the fuel, which helped a bit subjectively (and also measuring fuel trim), but not that much. I noticed that one HT lead had a detached rubber, possibly due to the previous work. I've made a special tool by buying an aluminium pipe 10x1 mm, I've cut it in 250 mm length and drilled with a 9 mm bit 25 mm deep. Then I've sanded the edges, so that they are sharp. I've attached the tool on the spark plug and gently tapped twice with the hammer and the rubber from the HT lead went from the spark plug on my tool. That way I was able to replace the HT leads (they come with a new ignition coil), that helped a bit, but still not totally. I've decided to reopen everything also because I had an oil leak (from before). I suspected the oil leak comes from the valve cover, which it did (that's under the cover of what it's shown in the video). I've changed the gaskets there too. They were really bad, hard and they even broke like glass. On some parts you have to add silicone: all 5 five screws on the back and on the side "humps". Got this from Haynes' manual. I've also noticed that the ECU has a gasket, which may be relevant to leaking air, which I didn't buy. I've applied thermal silicone instead. The gasket of the cover that it's shown in the video was quite bad. Haven't noticed before, because it seemed like solid plastic. I've changed this gasket (rectangular, with a notch, so that you don't turn it upside down, code 701 479). There's also a gasket on where the plastic tube, that was needed to be cleaned in the video. I think it's called "strainer something something gasket". In the local shop they've said that you can't buy it. That you can only get it if you buy the whole intake manifold. I've applied thermal silicone to it. I've also recheked the 4 triangular gaskets of the intake manifold and well they only seemed OK. Compared to new ones, they were quite hard. Changed those too. I've also removed the injectors and cleaned them in an ultrasonic bath of pure isopropanol for 30 min. I've ordered two types of gaskets for the injectors MCP-003 and MCP-004 because of a drawing. It should have been both MCP-003. I've also found in Haynes' manual specified torques for each tightenings and for the intake manifold there's a specific sequence and procedure, which I've followed. I've also applied Loctite on the screws as per the manual. When I've started the engine it wasn't jittery, but still I had the same LTFT, so I was disappointed and went to sleep. Next day I've tried putting all the spark plugs out. They were all white, indicating a very lean (too much air) mixture. I've changed the spark plugs, it was maybe better (at least subjectively), but not that much change on LTFT also still errors in the ECU. After that I decided to go around a bit and it seemed like it was getting progressively better. Then I stopped for an hour and went again. This time it was all fine. The fuel consumption went down by 1 L/100 km and there was no jitter also there were zero errors in the ECU.

[@Andrea-if4kl]

​@@sebaseba2001 Wow, gut gemacht. Top! Bewundernswert, ihre Ausdauer und ihr handling.

[@ronwhite8503]

Thanks for uploading this. I have just done this job on a mk1 Twingo 16v and it is ticking over much better. I would have struggled (even more!) to do this without your video..... many thanks.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Hi, thanks for the comment and its great to hear that this video helped on a MK1 twingo.

[@chassmashdog]

Brilliant video, I was worried about doing it before i saw the video, so seeing it done was great. Just 1 minor point I found that unplugging a plug at the rear right hand side of the loom (green cable heading off into bulk head) helped with manipulating the throttle body around, seemed to give me more room without putting pressure on the loom. Thanks for posting.

[@markholmes-siedle5635]

Hi , Great video, gave me the confidence to tackle the Renault Twingo we have just bought. A lot less room than the Clio but still possible with your help, took the Cam cover off to cure the oil leak and check the valve clearances while I was there, also done the cam belt and fitted a new clutch. I am nearly 60 but still learnt from your video, many thanks, Mark

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Thanks for the comment, and its great to hear it helped. Congratulations on the clutch change, it was one of them jobs that my clio would have benefited from but i never got round to doing.

[@Tomvloggity]

Did mine today, followed your video step by step, apart from the plastic retaining clips that hold the wires, they weren't even there lol

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

thanks for the positive comment, its good to know its helping. I intend to do more work on the clio, and i also hope to purchase a MOT failure clio really cheap to take apart and understand how it's built more.

[@tonyniemira2951]

Great video, thanks for posting. Was a big help for me when getting to the throttle position sensor on my Kangoo 1.2 16v, which has basically the same engine. Couple of points for the Kangoo: 1. Take off the bonnet! It opens the other way and saves a heck of a time getting those inlet maniford bolts off. 2. The TPS sold by most outlets (a much smaller item) is not always the right one. My Kangoo has the same as in this video for the Clio. Thanks again.

[@VelesKitchen]

Hello there! I have the same kangoo from 2003 petrol engine. I have the same problem at the moment and the light won't stop coming on again. The mechanic tried with cleaning the throttle body, but after some time the light comes on again and it's the same problem over and over. I want to ask you, how can i solve this problem? Should I change the throttle body? Or maybe the sensor on the throttle body? Should i check the pedal down under? Thanks in advance!

[@tonyniemira2951]

@@VelesKitchen Hello ! Well it's been five years since I did this and I don't have the car anymore to check, but as I remember the throttle body was a pretty simple device. If a clean out hasn't worked it could be sensor failure. Have you or your mechanic fitted an OBD II sensor reader to check the fault codes? It might actually tell you if something has failed. Cleaning the throttle pedal is easy, but it's just a couple of variable resistors that signal the ECU and it is pretty robust. Worth checking but unlikely the cause. If all else fails a new throttle body might be worth a try but after that it could be the ECU itself and I am afraid that's real money. Best of luck !

[@dimitrisof]

Today i had a little free time and i clean my throttle body too !! thank you very much !! You are a big teacher for me ! Now i am waiting a video how to change the timing belt :)

[@avinfun]

Thank you very much ,I just need this video at the side of the car so I can follow it . Much appreciate you taking the time to re-do this procedure .

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Thanks I changed the starter on the clio a long time ago ill do a video though soon as its not too difficult. But the crankshaft position sensor its just below the air filter on the bell housing, two bolts hold it in place and some wd40 or carb cleaner is all i used to clean it up.

[@grahamwakerley6523]

Hello again. Great news. All sorted and car is running sweet as So thank you so much for this fantastic Video. AMAZING DIFFERENCE. P.S. THERE IS A RUBBER RING WHERE THE THROTTLE BODY GOES ON THE HOUSING. I NEVER NOTICED IT AND IT DROPPED IN THE TOP OF THE ENGINE!!! I FOUND IT AFTER TAKING APART THE THROTTLE BODY THE SECOND TIME ROUND. LOL. NO HARM NO FOUL CAR IS RUNNER SUPERB NOW :)

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Great to hear it sorted your car. I must have forgot to mention the rubber ring, its fairly important that it makes a good seal was your car running rough with it out?

[@grahamwakerley6523]

Lol not only was it running rough the ring had dropped into the head and the engine was making some god awful noises, I thought there was something broken but luckily once the ring was back on it is running better than ever. Ignition light flashed a few times but after stopping and starting the car a few times it went off

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Graham Wakerley It didn't drop down round the valves etc did it, iirc with the inlet manifold off the space below it is just space, you then need to remove the valve cover to get at the valves. I would expect it to sound and act very strange, sometimes the rubber ring can get old and cracked and that can also cause running issues.

[@Andy-Robus]

wow, looks like another extensive dismantle jobs just to get to the throttle body. I have cleaned throttle bodies on other cars without having to remove the inlet manifolds. Wonder why Renault have tucked the body away like this, the same as having to take the whole top dash out just to change the bulbs in the centre clock / temp in the dash. Nothing seems a quick 5 minute dismantle job with this motor. - well done for video though very informative and clear

[@oneaz17]

fixed my idling problem striaght away cheers for putting this up mate!

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Great to hear you got it sorted, thanks for the comment

[@darrenmarshall4946]

Thanks for looking , fingers crossed it solves the problem, on half a tank only did 50 miles. The inlet manifold on top wasn't secured very well. One of the nuts in bedded in the rocker cover was slack letting air in. And on the inlet to the engine one of the bolts was snapped in the head, so had to drill it out and tapped it with a 7 mm bolt seems to have sealed. Haven't had the engine management light on again, so will refill and see what mileage I get ....

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

A loose intake manifold will definatley cause the issues you are mentioning, especially if someone has broke a bolt reinstalling it some time in the past there is a chance it wasnt done right, a new intake manifold gasket might be a good thing to get if you ever go to take it off again.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

There most likely will be a bit of old oil in that area but a few old rags is all it takes to dry it up, also while you have the inlet manifold off clean out the PCV valve to prevent the oil from doing that again.

[@sabitsou]

Congratulations my friend. Ηelps people . Comprehensive instructions for repair. Thanks from GREECE

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Thanks for the comment

[@dimitrisof]

Very nice video! I have the same car and now i know have i can clean my throttle bod , before 2 days i service my clio myself because you teach me how ...thank you! keep working on it!

[@claireriggs8127]

What a great video. Really easy to follow. Thank you.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The bolts are welded onto the seat frames and go through the floor, to get to the nuts you need to get under the car and remove plastic covers, once the nuts are undone the seat will lift out make sure to disconnect any wires before fully removing it.

[@JH-bh5lm]

Thank you for the video, I plan to do the same to my twingo 1.2 16v.

[@1paris9]

Cheers Peugeot, will invest in one and checked to see if its worth repairing. Thanks again.

[@MacUlisse]

Very nice video. I have the same engine on a kangoo. Is there a icu valve on the throttle body? when I stop at traffic lights eletrical fault light in the dashboard turns on and my car engine goes in low revs and sometimes stalls. Any idea what could it be? Thanks a lot for the video.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Yes i think the idle control valve is in the throttle body, its best to clean it with the carb cleaner when it is exposed.

[@MacUlisse]

@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks. Is petrol or diesel ok to clean out the throttle body?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

​@@MacUlisse For the sake of £10 or less a can of carb cleaner is the correct stuff to use.

[@MacUlisse]

@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks. I’ll do that then.

[@MacUlisse]

@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi again. Is it true that ecu needs to be reset after cleaning the throttle body so that the throttle values are set right? Or is there a more easy method to set the car to recognize a cleaned throttle body? Thanks again

[@mikemckay9554]

did much the same as I was changing top wiring loom due to the clio problems that most know about ,that is except the two garages that worked on the car ,new map sensor , lander sensor,and cat later with the same fault still there. I would just like to add the following at the bottom of the crankcase breather is a small hole that needs to be cleaned out with a paper clip also when replacing bottom inlet 10m bolts use a thin extension bar ,use your finger to act as a guide,

[@__justin__]

Thanks! The problem was high revs idle. I was able to tighten up 5 of 8 bolts on intake collector and engine idling normally now.

[@stelioscharalampidis3501]

Please check about the size of the female torx sockets and tell us. Very nice video! I heve done many processes on my clio 1.2 16v on my own as an amateur, both mechanical and electrical. Thank you!

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

no worries i see it as helpful advice, which will also help other viewers, i can understand if it is just for a job like this there would be no point purchasing a full set of inverted torx sockets.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The lack of power is caused by the old sludgey oil sitting over the throttle body and various sensors, the only pipe that can get clogged up is the crankcase breather pipe and its a good idea when cleaning the throttle body to also clean this out aswell.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Its around the bellhousing (where the engine meets the gearbox) below the air filter housing, and is held in place with 2 bolts

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

It sounds like a wire somewhere has been loosened; the large plugs up near the bulhead i found quite tricky to plug in. everything needs to be plugged back tight, and a bit of wd40 or contact cleaner on the plugs keeps the connections clean.

[@1paris9]

Then I done everything you done and now runs perfect.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

I never depressurised it, just pulled the various pipes off, there wasnt much petrol in the tank, i suppose opening up the fuel cap would depressurise the tank. I took the inlet manifold off today again to address an unrelated oil leak, it wasnt a nice day for it, very cold, but the throttle body is still nice and clean.

[@baronkingboetbirt1997]

Hi there. The wires that goes with the plug you pulled out on the ignition coil.. I have one broken off, don't know where it must go..

[@kwarcss5958]

Hi, i have issue removing loom connection cover in your video 2:59 sec. is there some clip or something? it rattles, but cant get it off.. :(

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Glad it helped. I sometimes forget what size the bolts are, i write them down while i do the job but sometimes mistakes can get made when im putting the videos together. Thanks for the information however.

[@davidmatthews3280]

Help i am having same problem I have uploaded a video on my channel I have changed plugs coil pack filters sounds so much like this one

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The inlet manifold/throttle body first, see the video in the renault clio playlist for that, then the valve cover and once its off the head comes off. But you also need to take off the exhaust manifold and whatever sensors are connected to the head, and the timing belt cover, if you plan to do this job get a haynes manual,

[@lindalo56]

can you buy the black sensor part separately from the throttle body. My garage want to replace the whole lot as they say it all comes together but i have found a couple sites that are selling just the sensor,

[@downhilldaz89]

thank you very much for posting this video it was a big help a big problem solved for £5

[@thedolenorway]

Thanks for taking time to make this vid, you really do a good job of showing clearly where everything is! I think the best auto diy vid I've seen in that regard! I'll do this for my Clio II 1.2 16v ASAP as its showing the same symptoms!

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

I had the electrical light coming on, intermitently but it was coming on more frequently when i went to work on the car. And yes revving the car usually got rid of the light. My mum drove the car and she drives it easy thus the problem showed up, then when i went to drive it i drove it flat out and couldnt see what was wrong initially. So i think cleaning out the throttle body is worth a try on your car.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The fuel gague works gets the signal from the float inside the tank, this car had the analogue gague but its still controlled in the same way as the digital. It sounds like there is still a loose wire somewhere, were any broken when removing connectors? and is the bolt shown at 4:34 back on correctly? How much fuel is in the tank because this clio if say £10 is put in when the fuel light is on its not enough to get it off.

[@chevy790]

car is 1.2 16v 2001 petrol-throttle body video great job as i was able to do my self but wanted top replace petrol filter as well

[@leighboyland6106]

hi the black metal box which covers the block connector at the rear of the engine how is it removed thanks leigh

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The Lambda sensor seems to be ok on this car, the readings on the diagnostics machine show it to be working fine. Cleaning out the throttle body and PSV valve made a huge difference however.

[@rhysybchannel]

at the mo, ive got the electric warning light the same one in the middle at the start, however all mine does when the light comes on has a lack of power. if i put it in neutral and full throttle it will only go up to 4000 RPM, spark plugs were changed, but any guesses what it could be? theres no bad idling, however when starting up it does go up and down a bit

[@austin12089]

You need to take the manifold off as shown here. It's a 1.2 D4F 712 engine. Also take air temp sensor out and clean. Re initialize throttle body if scan tool available if not disconnect battery so capacitors discharge, re connect, ignition on, enter radio code, start engine and allow to idle for 15 mins to set the idle regulation then drive between 2000rpm to 2500rpm for 30/40 secs to set the richness parameters. Btw these can be the worse engines to fix when running faults occur.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

I still would get a bit of the tsst noise i think its just the induction noise but it doesnt affect the cars performance, if you run the car with the air filter out the noise will be louder.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Its a bit confusing looking at if youve never had it off, but that whole part i removed was the inlet manifold not the rocker cover, although the rocker cover does have the hallow area for the throttle body to sit. It might seem complicated but it would be a lot worse on these newer cars coming out.

[@mutznut22]

good vid there my man simple and clear and straight to the point well done

[@Nutguy95]

how do you get the seats out in these, are there bolts under the car ? cant seem to get them out from inside and havent looked underneath yet

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The timing belt, and auxilary belt are on the side of the headlight they could be making the noise, does it change with revs? It could be a number of things causing the problem, the first time i attached everything together the car was a bit lumpy when first stared but after a bit of revving it picked up. What condition is the wires around the engine is the HT leads and plug going into the coil good, sometimes problems with them can make the car run rough.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

eventually after time the oil would leak out the air filter housing onto the flywheel sensor (that was the first problem i had on the clio) then the oil on the throttle body caused the rest of the problems. I also flushed out my oil to solve this problem check out the servicing video where before an oil change i put in some parafin into the oil run the car for a few minuites and then changed the oil which should help get rid of any sludgey oil

[@TadaRadonjic]

I have clio 1.2 16v 2001. while driving, my engine revs stop at 1900. I turn off the engine with the key, and when I turn the ignition back on, the car continues to stop revs if I don't press the gas. if I give gas, the engine accepts the pedal. and continue to run fine until the next transmission shift. then it blocks the gas again

[@rizacanozkocak2799]

Its was very hulpfull i had the same problem now my engine works better👍👍

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The Crankcase breather or PSV valve is what causes the oil issues. I had actually done this job a week before i filmed it. But when i am taking the throttle body off to the top right of it is a black hole in there is the crankcase breather and it clogs up with old crusty oil and needs to be cleaned out, i used wd40 and a pick to scrape out all the old oil. The place where it sits down needs cleaned, as does all the oil lying around. Eventually if it builds up it will cause the running problems

[@MrLiksus]

Question; Should a new inlet manifold gasket be installed before putting it back together at 9:40 when you cleaned the lower part and was there any sort of gasket there in the first place that may have rotted or burnt away? Thanks a lot for a great video

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Ideally yes if you can have a nice new one sitting ready to go on that would be the proper way to do it. However they can be slightly difficult to obtain, i have never actually replaced one on a clio yet (then again i can still count the amount of clios i have done this job on with two hands) a spray of silicone spray to hopefully soften the gasket and it went back on. Although bear in mind this video was made back in 2012 when the car was 10 years old, the gasket now on a clio might be 20 years old and more in need of replacement. I never considered it that hard to go back and fit a new gasket if the car still missed or misbehaved after the job was done so took the gamble and reinstalled the old gasket. If its leaking spraying something like WD40 round the gasket area will cause the revs to noticeably change.

[@IFlip18]

Thanks for this! I got Twingo with the D4F engine in it and I keep finding oil in the air housing so I probably need to do exactly what you just had to, although mine doesn't actually seem to have any of the problems you seemed to experience with it.

[@glenw123]

could you possibly do a quick tutorial on the throttle position sensor and how to check if its faulty? I have a 1.2 16V clio and the electronic fault light always seems to come on. I have done alot of research and forums suggest its the throttle body and/or throtle position sensor. I refuse to take it to the garage as i have spent in excess of £400 on this daft light

[@TheDerekeder]

Excellent video! I can't thank you enough.

[@abzinho10karim25]

Thanks for the video I have 6 clios in the household 2 of them have this problem. I'll work on them one at a tym...great video son.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Class! Talk about brand loyalty. Hope this sorts the problem on them.

[@Mixbag]

Just wanted to ask your advice. Im doing tappets on a 2005 1.2 16v clio tappet settings give 2 settings for inlet and 2 settings for exasust. Im not sure whitch one to do. Do i pick a feeler guage in middle of both settings for inlet ?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Are the two settings referring to hot and cold measurements, or is it a tolerance? I never went near the tappet adjustment of my clio so cant really speak from experience.

[@therealbruce]

Thanks for this, same symptoms as my clio, the little bastard. Glad to see its easy enough job, good work!

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

A fault code reader is whats needed, the dealers are expensive, so a mechanic might have a decent reader, i am yet to buy one myself and just get the lend of one a friend owns if i need it. But if you had a precise fault code then it would be easier to pinpoint the problem. Have you cleaned out the throttle body yet?

[@daveholding6123]

hi was replacing the MAP sensor in my 1.2 clio and the plastic snapped and a part fell into the manifold, I've been told to not start the engine until it is removed so gotta take manifold off but there are two bolts on front that I cannot reach no matter what because there is something in the way not sure what it is any idea how I can get round this ? Think it may be starter motor

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

I would recover the piece of plastic before starting the engine for sure. What bolts are you having difficulty getting? the ones where the manifold meets the head?

[@daveholding6123]

peugeotCitroen2CV Yeah thought so, there are two bolts on front but I now believe the thing in the way is the air con pump which is attached to starter motor and alternator?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Dave Holding Ah the air con pump, i remember someone mentioned that before in these comments. my car did not have air con so i never had to deal with any pump in this video, and i havent had a clio mk2 with aircon to work on. However generally speaking the air con pumps are driven by the auxiliary belt, slacken off the blet and then remove the pump, but dont disconnect the pipes going into it, just move the pump out of the way gently (ie dont bend the pipes).

[@glenw123]

i got new spark plugs and engine coil fitted for the same problem but it has not resolved the overall problem which is the Electronic Fault Light coming on all the time. However the new spark plugs and coil fixed the up and down reving at the start but the overall problem still remains

[@Fifthgear08]

Hi there i have the same car as you Clio 1.2 16v and i have a bit off problems with it, in the mornings when i start it it misfires a little bit when i rev it but goes when its warmed up and also there is any real power to it, i put my foot down and it takes qute some time to pick any help would really appreciate thanks

[@stelioscharalampidis3501]

Are you sure that the top bolts are female torx E6? I think they are E8 size!

[@Sinnednl1984]

Yes they are 8mm, I bought 6mm and they didn't fit.. that totally sucked XD. I replaced them with imbus or allen screw in english.

[@Temisdas]

hello, I have a 1.2 16vand when I accelerate I feel that the power has some gaps... it is not straight. Do you think that I can solve the problem with cleaning or replacing the throttle ? Thanks

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Sorry to hear that. I think these engines are an interference engine which means the pistons will have hit the vavles so its likely that damage has occured. Ive never had a timing belt snap on me so im not sure how bad the damage will be, the head will need to come off to see what the inside of the engine is like.

[@1paris9]

Thanks for the quick response, what needs to come off to get to the cylinder head? Thanks

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

no problem good luck with the repair, and if you get the chance reply to say if it improves the cars running.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Spark plugs or coil pack sounds like the culprit. But also clean out the throttle body, that should help it a good bit aswell.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Very good guide there, especially as it mentions the Tamper proof box

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

A tricky wee box to remove if still intact, thankfully this one had been tampered with before i attempted this repair. Definitely had a few comments over the years mentioning the difficulties of removing the box.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

They always seem to be loose on any clios ive seen, the wires below dont actually get cut or chaffed by it so i have never really worried.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

I would check the connections again, im not near my garage at the moment if i was i could look at the haynes manual to see if any of them plugs has anything to do with the fuel gague, but i remember from experience of taking out a fuel pump in the tank that the gague/pump is one unit and the connectors are under the back seat. What you said about the steep incline could be a reason, if the car is on the level the gague might register some fuel, did it show 2 bars sitting on the incline?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Thats fantastic to hear glad to hear the video was helpful.

[@chriswhite2695]

The block was alot more caked up than the one in the video would you scrap it off with a stanley blade ? If more is required than can be achieved by engine degreaser and a rag - what would you suggest ?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

A stanley blade would work ok just take care not to scratch the mating surface which is easier said than done. If the engine degreaser and rag are not working, switch to fine emery paper used on a sanding block.

[@chriswhite2695]

peugeotCitroen2CV ... and what if I've managed to scratch it ?

[@KkJACKkK]

Does the oil that builds up behind the air box come from the blocked up crankcase breather?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Yes a blocked crankcase breather seems to cause the oil build up, however i think the crankcase breather blockage is caused by not changing the oil regularly enough.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Sorry about that, ive had a few people mention this tamper proof cover, for some reason any ive worked on have had the tamper proof cover broken making it easy to lift off i didnt know when making the video.

[@IFlip18]

Just opened it and it is FULLY clogged up. I'm surprised I've never experienced any issues!

[@Mpho-Jan-Tsokela]

I have a similar car mine is a billabong I have a problem with the air bag and serv/service light they stay on... And both rear reverse light and tail for the driver side don't work only the brakes works on both sides... Any suggestions with be appreciate cheers

[@leighboyland6106]

just had a look and the brass wheel thats inside needs moving up with a right angled pick until the lid becomes free, may need a mirrior

[@mickaelapikaoua997]

What socket did you use at 6 minutes 51 in the video?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

@@mickaelapikaoua997 Its an inverse torx socket Cant remember the exact size though

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

I dont really know, perhaps the engine torque reaction link can be removed and let the engine tilt forward a bit, or peraps the throttle body is accessed in a different way. Renault forums or a haynes manual might be the best place to find out.

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Ive got the same problem at the moment on the clio the rocker cover gasket is leaking

[@chriswhite2695]

Please help, followed this today, must have done something wrong ... Engine now sounds horrendous, whistles and pops ? Is this likely due to lack of cleaning the block when refitting manifold ? If so how would people recommend cleaning this ? If it's something else ? What is it likely to be ?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The inlet manifold gasket where it sits against the block might not be sealing right and you also need to give the block a good clean, nothing special is needed just a bit of engine degreaser on an old rag.

[@Mixbag]

tried to remove my map sensor by gently putting it up and out but the end bit has snapped inside the rocker cover. do you just pull these sensor up to remove ?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Ive never worked on one of these cars with A/C but is it the air conditioning pump or pipes in the way? In either case you could remove the A/C pump from its bracket and push it aside, as long as the pipes are not opened or split then no refrigerant will escape

[@TwiniOnAir]

Hi. I've got a question for you, cause in my Twingo 1.2 D4F when I push the gas pedal I hear "tsst" - sound of underpressure... this same sound is on your movie (when you push gas pedal). I cleaned my throttle - a lot of oil, and other dirty liquid, and clean oil in air cover.. but this sound is still there... I thought that dirty crankshaft breather pipe is source of this sound but... not. Is the sound still occurs in your engine?

[@Vorneyyscorner]

Hi my 1.2 16v Clio is misfiring and knocking when it's idling its all over the place and after about 10 seconds it revs on its own the light comes on (coil) and it cuts out, would cleaning the throttle body help this? Thanks

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

The throttle body cleaning should sort out the problem, as for the box at the back, mine had already been opened up in the past, i think its a tamper proof cover, i never had to take one off properly but it is discussed here: www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=77179

[@Vorneyyscorner]

thanks i couldnt get the top off as i dont have a star socket but once i get one ill carry on. Thanks so much for your help and this video was very helpful too

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Vorneyy Fearon No problem glad to help

[@salehteriri9601]

سلام عليكم عندي سوال كولاكتور تاع شاطمو 1.2 16vراه يخرجلي زيت وينهو المشكل

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Hi sorry not sure what you are asking, is this in reference to the oil filter?

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Ive got no spares clio at the moment to do a video on this, and i dont really want to take the good clio apart. However i am buying a spares 406 soon and will probably be removing the wheel and stalks so i will do a video on that, it would be a similar process on the clio

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

It sounds like the car is in limp mode, its hard to say exactly what is causing it without reading the fault codes. However it could be the coil for the spark plugs, But i would get it connected to an fault code reader to see what it says before buying new parts. What condition is the air filter in? Is there much oil on it at the moment?

[@Nutguy95]

Thanks man, this has helped me a lot, gonna take them out in a little while :D Thanks

[@seekter-kafa]

can someone tell me what parts has the fuel system on D4F 740 (kangoo 1.2 16 V same engine as clio) i mean it has 2 hoses running from the tank one goes into engine (i presume for hot air going into tank) and the other goes into large-ish filter like 'thing' located beside front right wheel inside the hood, some electric wires go into that thing and the hose goes from that thing to the carburetor... i want to know what is that thing and is there any filter in it, cause that car dont have classic fuel filter

[@peugeotCitroen2CV]

Ah right, i see it now, its not a section i would normally go to. Normally i use ask the experts then the engines section, starting a new thread is the best way to get a response i find.